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Safety & Leadership

Safety & Leadership. Freedom of the Hills 8 th Edition Chapters 21 & 22. Why?. “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory. -- Ed Viesturs, "No Shortcuts to the Top"

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Safety & Leadership

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  1. Safety & Leadership Freedom of the Hills 8th Edition Chapters 21 & 22

  2. Why? “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory. -- Ed Viesturs, "No Shortcuts to the Top" “As an alpinist who carries a long list of dead friends and partners, I approach the mountains differently than most. I go to them intending to survive, which I define as a success. A new route or the summit is a bonus.” -- Mark Twight, "Extreme Alpinism" Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  3. Safety Most incident reports read like a list of bad decisions: • A lead to B • B lead to C • C lead to D • D lead to someone dying. Always be: • Prepared: • Proper gear: enough for the trip, plus a safety margin • Physically: enough for there and back, plus a reserve • Mentally: positive, not overly optimistic; realistic, adaptable and • Alert to changes and always considering “what if?” Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  4. Mountaineering Incident Pyramid If read from the bottom up… For every 200,000 UNSAFE ACTs, the result can be viewed as 200 minor injuries, 20 major, etc. Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  5. Hazards, aka Risks • Objective Hazards: The Mountain Environment • Subjective Hazards: Human - What you take into the mountains with you. • THE GOAL: Reducing, or controlling the risks for you and the rest of your climbing team. • Can you avoid the risks? • If not, can you protect against them? • If not, can you reduce the amount of time exposed to them? Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  6. Objective “Mountain” Hazards THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT - Physical hazards that are eternally persistent AND changeable. • Crevasses, icefalls, cornices, Avalanche, etc. • Weather - Cold, hot, rain, storms, lightning, etc. • High Altitude – effects on health • Loose rock or rock fall Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  7. Subjective “Human” Hazards Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012 Photo by Mike Myers

  8. Safe Climbs Three parts: Inputs - #1 Objective: Return home safely A plan to address hazards Staying alert during the climb

  9. Understanding & Controlling Risks • You must be able to recognize hazards before you can avoid them. • If you anticipate loose rock? Wear a helmet. • If you can recognize avalanche prone slopes, you can avoid them. • Knowing your physical and technical limits. • Unknown unknowns • Carry proper clothing, equipment, and food. • Study wilderness travel and techniques and develop mountaineering skills. • Understand your own personal sphere of acceptable risk Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  10. Be Alert to Changes that Affect Risk Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  11. Controlling Risks Cont. The following picture was taken during a Winter ascent of Mt. Whitney. When thinking about controlling risks, what do you think may be wrong with this scene? Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  12. Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012 Photo By: Mike Myers

  13. Stability of the snow is unknown – no other tracks present. These climbers may be too close together for the conditions. When uncertain about snow conditions, cross one at a time. Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012 Photo By: Mike Myers

  14. Leadership Just as every climbing party needs a map and compass, every climb needs good Leadership….It’s one thing to head out with some longtime climbing companions for a sunny weekend of peak bagging, and another to mount an extended technical climb with mountaineers who may not know one another…. Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  15. Leadership WHY DO WE NEED A CLIMB/TRIP LEADER? • Organize the Climb and Teams • Guardian of Safety • Takes positive control during a crisis Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  16. Organize the Climb • Research the route • Evaluate weather conditions • Arrange permits • Evaluate the party’s strengths and weaknesses • Proficiency • Size of team • Determine how many should go • Ensure proper equipment is taken • Make decisions regarding time management Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  17. Guardian of Safety Safety is a paramount concern • Begins with planning and ends when you get home • Ensure everyone has proper equipment, experience and stamina, and that the route chosen is appropriate for your group. • Monitor conditions among group • Alert, watching, gently reminding, and nagging when necessary • Initiate tough decisions -Turn-around. • Weather • Time Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  18. Takes Positive Control During a Crisis Whether you have a designated leader or not, your team must exercise positive leadership in the event of a crisis. Reality - One person will usually stand out as a natural leader and step up when the need becomes apparent. - Displays initiative - Good judgment - Concern for the Group - Generally inspires confidence Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

  19. Stay Alive and Return Home Safely • Know the hazards (mountain and human) • Know YOUR acceptable risk • Have a good state of mind • Be prepared for surprises • Be alert to changing conditions • Use good decision making • Have fun and return Home Safely Safety & Leadership - Updated 7/2012

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