Serging Skills

2. 28 Serging Skills

3. Objective • Summarize how the serger functions.

4. How the Serger Functions • Sergers provide a factory-like finish to home-sewn garments • Also called overlock or overedge machines • In one step, sergers • join two layers of fabric to form a seam • trim extra seam allowance • and overcast fabric edges continued

5. How the Serger Functions • Sergers cannot be used for all sewing tasks • Most sergers only stitch on fabric edges and not inside areas © BERNINA of America, Inc. continued

6. How the Serger Functions • Newer machines have stitches similar to regular sewing machine stitches but cannot embroider, make buttonholes, or insert zippers • Most home sewers use the serger to supplement—not replace—a conventional sewing machine continued

7. How the Serger Functions • Advantages of using a serger • Works well on fabrics from lightweight chiffon to heavyweight denim, as well as knit and woven fabrics • Make doing hems and ruffles quick and easy • Give a professional seam finish to garments such as unlined jackets, curtains, place mats, and other items continued

8. How the Serger Functions • A serger uses two, three, four, or five cones of thread depending on the model • It uses one, two, or even three needles • Instead of bobbins, it has upper and lower loopers that form the stitch © Dmitry Kalinovsky/Shutterstock continued

9. How the Serger Functions • A serger loops thread around the needle thread, encasing the fabric edge (a sewing machine creates stitches by interlocking bobbin and needle threads) • Looper threads do not penetrate the fabric • The needles and loopers form stitches over the fabric edge as it passes through • During stitching, knife blades trim the seam allowances continued

10. How the Serger Functions • A serger performs many functions at the same time to create the stitches • As you feed fabric into the machine, it reaches the feed dogs first • As fabric moves along, the knives trim the edge • Then loopers and needles form the stitches on the fabric • Fabric then feeds off the stitch finger behind the needle continued

11. How the Serger Functions • A serger runs much faster than a conventional sewing machine • Using a serger can reduce the sewing time of a project by as much as half

12. Think About It © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock Why does using a serger reduce the time needed to sew a garment?

13. Objective • Identify serger machine parts and basic serger stitches.

14. Serger Machine Parts • Although there are a variety of types and models of sergers, they have many similarities • The instruction manual for a serger identifies the parts of the machine and the function of each

15. Basic Serger Stitches • Serger stitches vary with machine make and model • Aside from common stitches, sergers can produce decorative stitches for an interesting look and extra emphasis

16. Overedge Stitch • Overedge stitchis used solely as an edge finish on garments • Uses one needle and one looper • Can prevent raveling in sheer and lightweight fabrics • Least bulky stitch © BERNINA of America, Inc.

17. Flatlock Stitch • Flatlock stitchuses one needle and one looper to join a seam; a three-thread stitch uses two loopers • Used in sportswear or lingerie elastic application • Seam is visible from right side of garment © BERNINA of America, Inc.

18. Rolled Edge Stitch • Rolled edge stitchcreates a rolled hem; seaming for sheers, laces, or silk • Use to stitch narrow rolled hems to finish scarves, ruffles, etc. • Use three-thread machines for light- to medium-weight © BERNINA of America, Inc.

19. Overlock Stitch • Overlock stitchis a three-, four-, or five-thread stitch • Core serger stitch • Stitches, trims, and overedges a seam in one operation • Suitable for a wide variety of weights and types of fabric © BERNINA of America, Inc.

20. Cover Stitch • Cover stitchis a stretchable stitch mainly used for hemming knits • One looper thread interlocks all the needle threads • Does not use cutting blade © BERNINA of America, Inc.

21. Chain Stitch • Chain stitch does not overlock fabric edge • Functions as a standard straight stitch when cutting knives are disengaged • Top side looks like a straight stitch; underside resembles a chain © BERNINA of America, Inc.

22. Objective • Summarize how to select thread and accessories for the serger.

23. Selecting Thread and Accessories • Special serger threads are available on cones or tubes • Advantages of serger threads include • fineness for delicate finishing and less bulk • strength • cross-winding for smooth top feeding during high-speed sewing • larger quantities • economy continued

24. Selecting Thread and Accessories © BERNINA of America, Inc. • The cone adapter is used when the thread is on a cone continued

25. Selecting Thread and Accessories • Place a spool cap(or unreeling disk) over the spool to provide even feeding of thread © BERNINA of America, Inc. continued

26. Selecting Thread and Accessories • Some slippery or specialty threads require the use of a thread net that helps prevent thread tangling © BERNINA of America, Inc.

27. Objective • Demonstrate how to thread and operate the serger, adjusting thread tensions and stitches as needed.

28. Threading the Serger • Follow the directions in the owner’s manual provided with your serger • Many machines are marked with a color-coded threading guide • Thread the loopers and needles in the correct order; otherwise, the threads may break or stitches may not form properly continued

29. Threading the Serger • Always thread the loopers before the needles—the upper looper first • Each time you change thread, you can tie threads from the new spools to the old threads to save time

30. Operating the Serger • Set all tension dials to 5 (or as directed by the instruction manual) • Make sure the upper knife is lowered and in the cutting position • Lower the presser foot © Alex Hinds/Shutterstock continued

31. Operating the Serger 4. Holding the thread chain or tails lightly behind the presser foot, serge a 2- to 3-inch thread chain; this is called chaining off • Place the fabric in front of the presser foot where the longer feed dogs will pull the fabric forward; do not push or pull the fabric continued

32. Operating the Serger • At the end of the seam, continue sewing to form a 3-inch thread chain; do not raise the presser foot continued © BERNINA of America, Inc.

33. Operating the Serger 7. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank

34. Adjusting Thread Tension • Thread tensions may need to be adjusted for changes in fabrics, threads, stitch type • A serger has a tension regulator for each thread • To make tension adjustments, turn the dial by only half or one number; test sew and check the results

35. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • When fabrics, threads, or stitches are changed, the stitch length and width may need to be adjusted • Use shorter, narrower stitches for lightweight fabrics • Use longer, wider stitches for heavyweight fabrics continued

36. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • Length of the stitch is distance in millimeters (mm) between needle penetrations • Width of the stitch is distance in millimeters between the needle thread and the trimmed edge of the fabric Stitch width Stitch length continued

37. Adjusting Stitch Length and Width • To change the length of the stitch, use the stitch length adjustment dial • To change the width of the stitch, some sergers have an adjustable dial; other sergers may require a change in the needle plate

38. Objective • Demonstrate proper use of a serger to construct a garment.

39. Using a Serger in Clothing Construction • A serger can be used three ways © BERNINA of America, Inc.

40. One-Step Method • Seams are stitched, trimmed, and overcast all at one time by the serger • Needle stitches on the seam line • Knives automatically trim the correct amount

41. Edge Finish Method • Garment’s raw seam edges are finished with the serger • Garment is then stitched together with a sewing machine continued

42. Edge Finish Method • Recommended when fit is uncertain and for tailored garments sewn from wools, linens, and silk • Using the continuous overcasting techniquecan save time

43. Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method • Creates a narrow double-stitched seam • Ideal for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics or knit fabrics • Use to reinforce areas of stress in a garment continued

44. Narrow Double-Stitched Seam Method • Standard 5/8-inch seam is stitched using a sewing machine (two lines of stitching are shown to the right) • Seam allowances are serged together (with needle 1/8 inch from the first line of stitching) © Frank Zosky, Photographer

45. Mock Flat-Felled Seam • Mock flat-felled seam uses both the conventional sewing machine and the serger • Useful with denim and other heavyweight woven fabrics continued

46. Mock Flat-Felled Seam • Stitch a standard seam with right sides together using the sewing machine • Using a serger, overlock the seam allowances together, trimming slightly • Press seam allowances toward one side continued

47. Mock Flat-Felled Seam 4. Using a sewing machine, topstitch from the right side next to the seam line 5. Topstitch again 1/4 inch away from the first topstitching line through all layers

48. Think About It Which two methods of using a serger in clothing construction require the use of a sewing machine as well? © Levent Konuk/Shutterstock © OfiPlus/Shutterstock

49. Selecting a Pattern • Many commercial patterns are designed specifically for serger sewing, but the serger can be used to sew a garment from any pattern to some degree • Since sergers trim seam allowances as they sew, they are often used to sew loose, unfitted, knitted garments that do not require precise fitting

50. Transferring Pattern Markings • Mark garment pattern pieces with a water-soluble or air-erasable marking pen or tailor’s chalk • Don’t use notches because stitching with a serger removes them