Skip this Video
Download Presentation
TED 126 Spring 2007

Loading in 2 Seconds...

play fullscreen
1 / 23

TED 126 Spring 2007 - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

  • Uploaded on

go and take the plunge… buy a Router the most versatile power tool for a materials lab pages 140-146 plus this PowerPoint. TED 126 Spring 2007. …router.

I am the owner, or an agent authorized to act on behalf of the owner, of the copyrighted work described.
Download Presentation

PowerPoint Slideshow about ' TED 126 Spring 2007' - len-schroeder

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation

Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author.While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - E N D - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Presentation Transcript

go and take the plunge… buy aRouterthe most versatile power tool for a materials labpages 140-146 plus this PowerPoint

TED 126

Spring 2007

  • Routers work great on complex and simple woodworking joinery like mortise and tenons, dowel joints, tongue and groove joints, box joints, and dovetails.
  • With all the accessories and range of bit sizes you can create sign lettering, decorative edges, and patterns that look like they were hand carved.
  • Certain routers are made for cuttingsynthetic materials like medium-density fiberboard, plastics, and light metals.
  • Buying a router can be confusing these days with the so many features and options on each model.
  • The two basic router types are
    • fixed-base (standard or shop routers) and
    • plunge base.
  • Fixed based routers are more secure and clamped into a base while
  • …the plunge routers can move vertically which give it the "plunge" effect into wood.
  • Plunge routers are perfect for deep grooves and mortises, template pattern work, stopped dadoes, and through cuts.
    • However, the plunge router does have some drawbacks - it's top heavy, handles are harder to adjust and maneuver. Most users with home workshops tend to own multiple routers for various purposes and the fixed-base routers are preferred for their compact designs and ease of use.

Consumer’s Report for 2007

  • The Bosch 1619EVS ($280) is the top ratedplunge router and comes with a
    • 3 1/4 HP,
    • self-releasing collets,
    • a soft-start variable speed motor, and
    • dust control.
  • Users say the Bosch wood router works great freehanded and when mounted to a router table.
  • Consumers also mentioned they like the "versatility" of this router since it can start grooves or cuts in the middle of boards.

Consumer’s Report for 2007

  • For a heavy-dutyfixed base router, go with the Milwaukee 5625-20 for under $280.
  • Although it lacks a dust control and the maximum depth is an inch less than the Bosch reviewed above, users say it performs well while mounted to a router table.
  • The 5 year warranty is long enough for most to think that the product is worth the price.
  • The electronic variable speed offers speeds of 10,000-22,000 rpm, and most reviewers say the "graduated-knob depth adjustment" works perfectly.

Consumer’s Report for 2007

  • For a mid-sizefixed base router the Milwaukee Body Grip 5615-21 ($153) is slightly cheaper than the other Milwaukee router and a touch smaller but still gets excellent reviews.
  • The exclusive BodyGrip design features a tactile handgrip molded into the base of the router, the linear depth adjustment system makes both coarse and micro-fine height adjustments quickly and accurately, and the router sub-base includes a special access hole for above-the-table depth adjustments.
  • At 8.8 pounds you can hold it with one hand and experts say it's a great first router for any woodworker. Again, Milwaukee offers a 5-year warranty on this model.

Other top-rated routers

Plunge Router 2.0 HP

Fixed Router 1.5 HP HD

  • When deciding on purchasing a router, take into account both the
    • capacity (bit shank - 1/4” and 1/2”) and
    • size (Horsepower) when making your decision.
  • A router with 1 HP or less should be just fine for crafts, hobbies, models, etc.
  • A router with 1 3/4 HPor more and 1/2 inch bit shank capacity will be needed on professional projects involving work with hardwoods or shaping/forming pieces in a router table.
router bits
…router bits
  • The bit is arguably the most important element in ensuring a quality finish and a good clean cut.
router bits1
…router bits

Carbide versus HSS(high speed steel) bits

  • The vast majority of bits on the market today are carbide tipped.
  • Carbide is an extremely hard material. Its density actually rivals that of a diamond!
  • Carbide has a number of advantages;
    • it is very resistant to heat, and
    • it keeps an edge (stays sharp) longer than steel.
  • It does have a number of drawbacks;
    • it is very brittle,
    • prone to chipping, and
    • it is very expensive.
  • This is why most bits are carbide tipped and not made from solid carbide.
router bits2
…router bits

Carbide versus HSS(high speed steel) bits

  • HSS bits (High Speed Steel) were the only type available for a number of years.
  • They are still available from a number of hardware stores and catalogs. HSS bits are best suited for occasional work.
  • HSS bits tend to dull relatively quickly and need to be re-sharpened to keep from burning the wood’s surface.
  • Some manufacturers coat their HSS bits with
    • Titanium Nitride to help them stay sharper longer.
    • Unfortunately, this coating eventually wears off.
    • It will disappear quicker if you work with hardwoods.
    • A carbide bit can last up to 20 times longer that a HSS bit - making it far cheaper in the long run.
router bits3
…router bits

Pilot versus Non-Pilot

  • There are two different types of bits;
    • Pilot and Non-Pilot.
  • Pilot bits are fitted with a ball bearing that keeps them a fixed cutting distance from the edge of the wood.
    • They are used most commonly to rout a profile on the edge of a workpiece or as a flush trim bit.
  • Non-pilot bits do not have a bearing and are used in conjunction with a fence or jig of some sort to control their cutting paths.
router bits5
…router bits
  • Using a pilot bit
    • If you are using a pilot bit make sure the bearing rotates freely.
    • A frozen bearing can burn the edge of your work piece.
    • There are two things to remember when using a pilot bit.
      • First, don’t push too hard or you risk denting softwoods with the bearing.
      • Second, be sure to apply enough pressure to keep the bearing pressed against the wood.
      • If it is allowed to spin on its own, it may burn the wood. Confused? With time you will learn the right amount of pressure for the job.
router bits6
…router bits

Make deep cuts in stages

First pass Second pass… Final pass

router bits7
…router bits

Edge routing

*The keys to routing clean edges are using a sharp bit and running the router in a counterclockwise direction around the top of the work piece. That way, the bit pushes the router toward you rather than pulling it away, so it is easier to control and be safer. BUT…

router bits8
…router bits

Edge routing…

****But the counterclockwise technique doesn’t always work perfectly. There’s a tendency for the wood to chip out at the corners. Solve the problem by “climb-cutting” (or cutting clockwise) for a couple of inches on the end grain at the “northeast” and “southwest” corners of the board. Then start anywhere on the work piece and run the router around the wood counterclockwise.

if you’re edge-routing the inside of something, like a picture frame, rout in a clockwise direction.

router bits9
…router bits

Chip Limiting Bits"Safety Bits”

  • Chip limiting bits are a relatively new arrival in the world of woodworking.
  • Spawned from German legislation that mandates increased safety, many bit manufacturers are now offering their own chip limiting bits.
  • The bits are designed with an extra body mass that extends further back on the bit.
  • This extra mass reduces the amount of material that can be fed into the bit’s cutters.
  • Reducing the amount of material that can be fed reduces the chance of over-feeding the bit.
  • This, in turn, reduces the chance of the bit kicking back or splintering the wood.
router tables
router tables
  • A routing table fixes your plunge or fixed base router underneath a table.
  • Instead of moving the router over the workpiece, you move the wood "over" the router.
  • The wood is guided along the table by a guide fence.
  • At the opening of the guide fence the wood is cut and the dust and chips are extracted by a opening at the back of the guide fence.
  • The router can still be moved vertically within the table in order to adapt depth of cut.
router tables1
router tables
  • A good table should be flat and resistant to friction.
  • Most manufacturer use extruded aluminum or cast aluminum.
  • Others use MDF surfaced with melamine.
  • Router tables are one of the most versatile woodworking tools in your workshop. Whether you go for a bought or shop made table, make sure you understand all safetyaspects of your router and how to handle a router.
  • If equipped properly and with all possible safety features, a router table will be an indispensable piece of woodworking machinery.
router tables2
router tables

Feather boards designed to keep wood snug against the fence or table for a safe, clean cut!

router tables3
router tables

Adjust bit height from the top of your table quickly and easily with this affordable new router lift design.

router safety
Router Safety
  • Read the safety filesthat are related to the Router which are posted on Blackboard.

The End