History of Tailoring: Reconstructing the human body in fabric • Greek & Roman ages people draped fabric over their bodies • Middle ages: clothing was a means to conceal the body • Loose robe was shortened and tightened & eventually cut pieced and sewn together to contour to human form • Birth of tailoring • Renaissance: clothing a means to accent the body • Tailoring grew among the aristocrats of Europe and peaked during Louis XIV (1643-1715)
History of Tailoring Cont… • In the 18th century English moved away from French style (highly decorated) to a more practical style • Somber & serious style • Distinctions between royalty and commoners disappeared by 19th century • Modern Tailoring born in the Industrial revolution that emphasized practicality, functionality, and fit • Today there is still a need for unique and individually designed clothing
Definition of Tailoring • A process by which the garment design lines are defined and the garment is given a permanent shape and structure of its own. • Design lines such as collars and lapels are defined by sharp edges and all the lines within the garment should be smoothly curved or perfectly straight.
Types of Tailoring • Traditional- hand sewing • Contemporary- techniques that incorporate new materials like fusibles or replacement of hand stitching with machine stitching. • Custom Tailoring- making a garment for a specific individual
Hard Tailored Garment: Stiff fabric Very crisp Formed details Built in shaping Soft Tailored Garments: Soft fabrics Subtle shaping Not as rigid Details are crisp More feminine Types of Tailored Garments
Tailoring Concepts • Compatibility • Design with wearer • Money with time • Garment with ability • Fitting: all patterns need adjusting to your size • Stabilizing: keeping fabric from stretching and changing shape. • Underlining- sewn as one with fabric • Interfacing-stabilizes • Cotton tape- stabilizes seams • Interlining- for warmth. Fabric is placed between lining and outside like batting. • Lining- allows garments to be put on easier • Shaping patterns into 3-D: shaping is cutting fabric putting two pieces together and steaming & pressing them.
Tailoring Concepts Cont… • Reducing Bulk • Trimming: cutting a seam at the same width- trimming both seam allowances together • Beveling edges: cutting the seam allowances inside faced edges by angling the shears; this rounds the seam edges • Clipping: the process of slitting seam allowances up to the seam on curves. Better than notches because notches weaken the seam. • Grading: cutting the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk • Pressing & steaming: putting pressure and steam on fabric with an iron to form a sharp edge or flat seam • Pounding: used for shaping wool • Under stitching: a row of stitching placed close to the edge of any facing; done before grading and beveling • Top stitching: stitching on the right side of the fabric in rows of decorative stitching
Garment Life Expectancy • Swimsuits 2 years • Wool Blazer 4 years • Underwear 1 year • Cotton Suits 2 years • Uniforms 1 year • Dresses 5 years • High fashion evening wear 3 years or less
Price greater than perceived quality (overpriced) Price less than perceived quality (under priced) Coat worn 50 times $4 per wear $200(price) Dress worn 3 times $50 per wear $150 (price) Jeans worn 300 times $.17 per wear $50 (price) Price vs. Perceived Quality =