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What Causes Waves?

Discover the factors behind wave formation, from wind generation to gravitational pull, and explore how waves move through water, including deep vs. shallow water waves and the impact of rogue waves.

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What Causes Waves?

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  1. What Causes Waves? • Wind • Submarine disturbance • Gravitational attraction of sun and moon

  2. Wind Generation of Waves • Wind velocity • Wind duration • Fetch (distance over which wind blows) • Simply put, wave size increases as all these factors increase.

  3. Wave Motions • Forward movement of the wave form. • Orbital motion of water particles beneath the wave. • It is wave energy,NOT water molecules, that moves across the sea surface.

  4. Deep Water Waves Waves do NOT interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules are circular.

  5. Shallow Water Waves Waves DO interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules become elliptical.

  6. Rogue Waves? • Constructive wave interference - wave buildup

  7. Rogue Waves http://bit.ly/9XWFZu http://bit.ly/cs1I9b http://bit.ly/dmFsI7

  8. Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom • In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave’s properties. This leads to wave refractionand waves collapse forming surf(breakers).

  9. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves

  10. Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves

  11. Wave Videos Reflection off a sea wall: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevRZAxDxZw Big wave at beach: http://www.weather.com/blog/weather/8_21326.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdoTdG_VNV4&feature=player_embedded#at=131 Tacoma narrows bridge: http://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=A2KLqIGXaSdPEn0AIxT7w8QF?p=tacoma+narrows+bridge&b=21&tnr=20

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