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“CO 2 LES”

“CO 2 LES”. Converting A Gas Powered Corolla Wagon into an Electric Family Hauler By Sten Mander. Overview. Part 1: The car selection process Part 2: Removing the gasoline components Part 3: Power to manual steering conversion Part 4: Installing the motor

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“CO 2 LES”

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  1. “CO2 LES” Converting A Gas Powered Corolla Wagon into an Electric Family Hauler By Sten Mander

  2. Overview • Part 1: The car selection process • Part 2: Removing the gasoline components • Part 3: Power to manual steering conversion • Part 4: Installing the motor • Part 5: Rear batteries and charger • Part 6: Instrumentation • Part 7: Brakes and suspension

  3. I need a light car that is large enough to take two kids in car seats to school… Part 1: The Car Selection Process

  4. I chose a 1991 Toyota Corolla station wagon with a good body and a clean interior.

  5. Then I installed a tow bar so I could tow the car home after the engine was removed.

  6. I have driven the car about 500 miles.The odometer is now at 195,000.

  7. Next, the engine and all the gasoline parts needed to go.

  8. Part 2: Removing the Gasoline Components

  9. The Casa Grande Auto Tech class removed the engine, gas tank and exhaust system.

  10. This is the 4- cylinder gasoline engine out of the car.

  11. The stock exhaust system weighs about 20 pounds.

  12. Then I towed the car home and put it in my garage. This is what the engine compartment looked like.

  13. Part 3: Power to Manual Steering Conversion

  14. I had to replace the power steering rack with a manual steering rack because there is no engine to turn the pump.

  15. This is what the stock power steering pump and rack looks like out of the car.

  16. The manual steering rack (above) has a shorter and narrower pinion gear… compared to the power rack (below).

  17. Compare the two steering yokes:The manual rack yoke (above) and the larger diameter power rack yoke (below).

  18. Compare the 2 steering shafts:The power rack shaft is shorter (top). The manual rack shaft is longer (bottom).

  19. The biggest problem I had with the power steering swap was finding this cover for the manual rack.

  20. Part 4: Installing the motor

  21. This is the 8-inch D and D motor, coupler and adapter plate from Wilderness Electric Vehicles.

  22. Ack! The adapter plate that came with the kit was rough and warped!

  23. Ack! The coupler that came with the kit wobbled because it was not welded straight!

  24. The first step to installing the electric motor is making a model.

  25. I got the idea for my car from another Toyota Corolla wagon conversion I saw on EV Album.com.

  26. John Balon, my neighbor, made this fixture to find the exact middle of the new adapter plate. It was super difficult. Thanks John!!

  27. For my 47th birthday, I worked on the car with Rob at JRL Machine for 12 hours at $100/hour! Yowza!!!

  28. Ack! The original transmission leaked oil and made a grinding noise going into second gear so it had to be rebuilt.

  29. The lower cross member is in the way, so half the adapter plate is bolted to the trans-axel… Cross member

  30. …and the other half of the adapter plate (a flange) is bolted to the motor before the motor is installed. Notice the direct motor coupler, no clutch. Flange

  31. Rob at JRL Machine cutting a notch in the motor holder for my floor jack.

  32. I made a special motor holder for my floor jack. The motor weighs about 100 pounds!

  33. Installing the motor does not even require the removal of the wheels!

  34. The motor adapter is held in place while it is bolted in. Notice the clear heater hoses.

  35. The motor is bolted to the trans-axel. Next, the motor end plate will hang from the stock motor mount. Stock motor mount

  36. This is the 8-inch motor installed at both ends before the steel was powder coated.

  37. Notice the MES 120V DC heater and 8-inch motor are installed. The front battery rack mount is being attached to the motor end plate.

  38. The motor end plate is made of heavy, ¼ inch steel.We call it “Nevada.”

  39. Here is Rob at JRL Machine holding the finished motor end plate.

  40. Fitting the front battery rack. Ack! The front batteries won’t fit because the heater hoses are in the way

  41. This shows the black pre-molded heater hoses and the 8-inch motor after the steel parts were powder coated.

  42. Part 5: The Rear Batteries and Charger

  43. Before installing the rear battery rack, I had the spare tire tub sprayed with Rhino Liner to protect it from any acid that may drip.

  44. After the Rhino Liner was sprayed and the charger installed, I ran a PVC conduit for the welding cable from the engine compartment to the spare tire tub.

  45. The PVC plastic conduit for the welding cable enters the spare tire tub from the front, underneath the floor.

  46. A galvanized steel battery rack is installed over the coated spare tire tub and bolted to the car in 10 places! Battery charger

  47. The next layer is the bottom of the battery box, made of ¾ inch thick Star Board plastic.

  48. The bottom of the battery box has a drain so any acid that drips can be rinsed outside the car.

  49. Sten is covering the stainless steel battery hold-down tubing with a layer of heat shrink rubber to protect it from corrosion.

  50. Eight rear batteries are secured with six 3/8 stainless steel rods and two pieces of 1 inch square coated stainless steel tubing.

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