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L’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation. François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France. INTRODUCTION L’Oréal, an overview in 2003. 100 years of expertise in cosmetics. 17 global brands. 14 billion euro consolidated sales. 480 million euro invested in R&D. 50,500 employees.

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fran ois christiaens l or al recherche clichy france

L’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation

François Christiaens,

L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France

slide2

INTRODUCTION

L’Oréal, an overview in 2003

  • 100 years of expertise in cosmetics
  • 17 global brands
  • 14 billion euro consolidated sales
  • 480 million euro invested in R&D
  • 50,500 employees
  • 15% share of the global cosmetics market
  • 3.9 billion units manufactured annually
  • 130 products sold every second
slide3

COSMETICS, UNIQUE EXPERTISE

A brand portfolio that is unique in the world

www.loreal.com

slide4

480-million-euro R&D budget

2,900 staff members

1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research

Numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals

and presentations in congress

More than 500 patents filed per year

8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America and 3 in Asia

3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and

3 in Asia

RESEARCH, DRIVING GROWTH

slide5

African skin

Chinese skin

European skin

Motivation for participating in the project

(background) 1/2

Hair and skin occupy a special place

on the surface of the human body, in

direct contact with the environment.

Their diversity and the alterations

they may show are partly linked to

climate and pollution.

slide6

Motivation for participating in the project

(background) 2/2

Exposure to solar radiation can have severe

consequences:

  • Skin: erythema, ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles...
  • Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on the cosmetic aspect and properties (fragility).

The UltraViolet waveband of the solar spectrum

is involved in these alterations.

slide7

INFORMATION NEEDS

UV irradiances and doses

Both physical (UVB, UVA) and biologically-weigthed (erythemal)

Kind of data:

- Climatologies

- Global and local maxima and averages

- Time series at different locations

- Forecasts

slide8

LIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATION

Too few (or geographically missing) collecting sites

worlwide

Limited availability of data over time

Instrumental intercomparison is required because of

different:

- instruments

- calibration and operating procedures

No data on UVA radiation available

slide9

Handling of data by the end-user

    • - Interactive maps and ASCII format
    • - Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer

REQUIREMENTS

« Physical » requirements:

- Sea level

- Region: Global, but focused on populated areas

- Spatial resolution: 1 by 1 degree

- Time period: climatology

- Max. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending on

the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %)

- (When applicable: Spectral step: 1 nm)

- Accuracy: better than 5%

slide10

Sub-contractor and industrial partneron the road to success

INVOLVEMENT

  • Specifications definition
  • Periodical follow-up (includes attending to meetings)
  • Feed-back:

- Improvement proposals

- Related links

slide11

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)

Clear-sky UV index, global and Europe

  • Today and 4-days forecast based on SCIAMACHY data
  • Climatologies based on GOME data, including monthly averages and yearly extrema
slide12

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)

Erythemal UV doses:

  • Individual day data for 2004

(SCIAMACHY)

  • Climatologies, 1995-2003, from

GOME data

slide13

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)

On-line help

www.temis.nl

slide14

ASSESSMENT

Comparisons with published models and local ground measures

Ease of use / care of specifications

Assistance quality:

- relevance

- full answer

- delay

slide15

Implementation of UVA data

  • Delays for the availability of time series
  • Information whether such improvements can be achieved:
    • - High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km
    • - Spectral irradiance for the waveband 280-1100 nm

EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REMAINDER

IN THE PROJECT

Complementary products

- Interactive maps

- UV-index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY):

Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for

global and areas of interest

slide16

PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (1/2)

Improve the relevance of indoor tests:

  • Mimic actual UV spectra in solar simulators
  • Fine-tune the doses delivered in:
    • internal tests,
    • sub-contractors laboratories,
    • studies made within scientific collaboration
  • Provide cosmetic products customised

to consumer needs, worldwide

slide17

PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (2/2)

Help our scientific communication:

  • To provide services that rely on high-technology work, and thus take a lead over competitors
  • To convince people about the benefits of UV photoprotection
    • Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed (waow)
    • Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch)
    • Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses (argh)
    • When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected (phew)
slide18

CONCLUSION

L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI:

A state-of-the-art scientific collaboration…

…because you’re worth it!