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  1. The Roar of the Twenties: 1920-1929 Clothes for Women

  2. Ideal Body Shape Female Shape: • slim • shapeless like a young girl • bustless, waistless, hipless

  3. The silhouette Silhouette: • essentially straight and slim • flat chest • waistline at the hips • hem trend is upward until 1927ric

  4. Changes in waist, hip and hem lines:1920-1929: 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929

  5. Compare 1925 1918

  6. Major form: Dress

  7. 1920 About 8” from floor

  8. 1923

  9. 1923 NOTE:• Hemline dropped almost to floor

  10. 1925-1928 NOTE:Hemline rose slightly above • also slightly below knee • Flapper shape = 1925• stays about 2 years• symmetrical

  11. 1926 The Flapper Look

  12. The Flapper Look 1926 NOTE:• fastened left side of dress• buttons, hooks, snaps• ‘zipper’ later

  13. The Flapper Look NOTE:• cloche hat 1927

  14. The Flapper Look Cloche hat = a small and tight hat with a narrow brim that became popular as the bobbed hair style evolved. Generally the felt was relieved only by a grosgrain ribbon band or a jeweled pin. NOTE:• cloche hat F 1927

  15. 1928

  16. 1928 NOTE:• asymmetry

  17. NOTE:• dismay - amount of fabric• added pendants• lengthened (uneven hems)• asymmetry • cotton, wool (silk)• 1924: “rayon” (“artificial silk”) 1929

  18. NOTE:• dismay - amount of fabric• added pendants• lengthened (uneven hems)• asymmetry • cotton, wool (silk)• 1924: “rayon” (“artificial silk”) Rayon = a fiber originally called artificialsilk that did not wear well. But it gradually improved, was named “rayon,” and was widely used in the 1920s. 1929 G

  19. NOTE:• new hat shape 1929

  20. Evening Wear NOTE:• hemline same for evening• large feather fans• bangle bracelets 1920

  21. Evening Wear NOTE:• beads/fringe/spangles• chiffons• rayon• soft satins• long bead necklace• large # of bangles 1925

  22. 1929 NOTE:• handkerchief skirt line • bias 1928

  23. Lengthwise grain Crosswise grain True bias

  24. Sports!

  25. Times had changed!

  26. Coats NOTE:FUR:• squirrel• beaverette• muflon (wild sheep) 1924

  27. 1927 NOTE:• fur collars

  28. NOTE:• raglan sleeves • clutch coat 1928

  29. Coco Chanel: 1926“The Little Black Dress” NOTE:• simple cut/style• signaled liberation from snobbery• based on childhood convent uniform• egalitarian -- shop girl chic

  30. Coco Chanel: “The Little Black Dress” Today evening Coco Chanel: Chanel jacket

  31. Underwear 1923 “The Boyshform Brassierre Co.

  32. NOTE:• straight cut brassiere • “garter belt” 1925

  33. NOTE:• straight cut brassiere • “garter belt” F Garter belt = a belt-like garment worn around the waist with suspenders attached to hold up the stockings. 1925

  34. NOTE:• cut of the brassiere • pocket! • negligee • dolman sleeve 1927

  35. NOTE:• slips • trousers • cut of brassiere 1928

  36. NOTE:• slips • trousers • cut of brassiere Slip = a straight-cut chemise or petticoat was renamed the slip, and was comparable to the garment of the same name today. F 1928

  37. NOTE:• almost panties

  38. Shoes Cuban heel early 1920 later Charleston

  39. early

  40. later NOTE:• Cuban heel • ‘spectator’

  41. NOTE:Stockings: • dark/white earlier• tan/flesh color later• conservative: • brown, grey, black • silk• new rayon• lustrous $.48 = $5.20 1928

  42. Stockings Ads ‘cheesecake’?

  43. Hair “Bobbed Hair” Irene Castle

  44. Hair Irene and Vernon Castle Remember?• dance team • created fox trot, etc.

  45. Hair by 1923 Louise Brooks “Bobbed Hair”

  46. Hair by 1923 Louise Brooks F Bobbed hair = short, close-fitting hairstyle that was clipped very close in the back and trimmed to a V at the nape, first made fashionable by the dancer Irene Castle around 1919. “Bobbed Hair”

  47. Bernice Bobs her Hair F. Scott FitzgeraldThe Saturday Evening Post, 1920

  48. Bernice… 1920

  49. Bernice…

  50. fingerwaves

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