Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling but Freezer Works? Top OEM Parts and Fixes

1. When a Whirlpool refrigerator stops cooling while the freezer still holds temperature, you are dealing with an airflow or control problem more often than a dying compressor. After years working on Whirlpool French-door, side-by-side, and bottom-freezer models, I can say the fix usually involves a failed evaporator fan motor, iced-over defrost system, stuck damper, or a sensor that is feeding bad data to the control board. The right Whirlpool refrigerator parts, installed correctly and matched to your exact model, restore stable temperatures and save food. Below, I break down practical diagnostics, the parts that actually solve this, and how to approach the repair with confidence. What “Whirlpool Refrigerator Parts” Means, and Why OEM Replacements Matter Whirlpool refrigerator parts cover everything from mechanical items like evaporator fan motors, dampers, and door gaskets to electronics like thermistors and main control boards. In the field, I see well-meaning homeowners installed with generic parts that physically fit but drift out of spec within months. OEM Whirlpool refrigerator replacement parts are built to the correct resistance values, airflow rates, and firmware expectations. That precision matters on modern machines where one out-of-range sensor can keep the damper closed or prevent a defrost cycle, which leads straight to a fridge compartment that will not cool while the freezer seems fine. When you order parts by model and serial number, you also get engineering revisions baked in. Whirlpool often supersedes part numbers to address known issues, such as LED light control modules that flicker or thermistors with tighter tolerances. Using Whirlpool refrigerator parts by serial number avoids a lot of guesswork. The result, in my experience, is a single successful repair instead of a frustrating cycle of returns. If you do choose non-OEM, at least verify electrical specs, connector style, and airflow orientation for fan motors, and confirm thermistor resistance charts against service data. Why the Fridge Is Warm While the Freezer Works: Real-World Troubleshooting Cooling in the fresh food section depends on cold air produced in the freezer, then moved and metered into Repair Clinic the refrigerator compartment. If the freezer is fine, you have cold production. What fails is distribution or control. Start with a quick test: open the fridge door, hold the door switch down, and listen for the evaporator fan motor in the freezer. If it is quiet, that is a leading culprit. If you hear the fan but airflow from the damper is weak, look for a stuck or iced damper. If airflow starts strong then fades, frost build-up is likely choking the evaporator coil due to a defrost fault. The defrost system has three core parts: the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat or sensor, and the control board that schedules and powers the cycle. When one fails, frost grows into a snowbank that blocks air passages. You may notice the fridge getting warmer over a few days while the freezer remains usable, or you might hear a Whirlpool fridge sounding like a helicopter as the fan blades hit ice. If you shut the unit off for 24 hours with doors open and towels down, then restart and temps recover, that points to a defrost system problem rather than a sealed system issue. Thermistors, the small temperature sensors clipped to walls or the evaporator cover, feed the brains of the machine. A drifting Whirlpool thermistor can report the wrong temperature, so the control never opens the damper or never initiates defrost. I carry a simple chart and meter to compare resistance at known temperatures. If the reading is off by a wide margin, replace the sensor. Controls do fail, but much less often than sensors or fans. I replace one main control board for every four to six bad thermistors or two to three failed fan motors.

2. Fast checks that save time and food Verify the condenser coils are clean and that the condenser fan near the compressor runs. Dirty coils and dead condenser fans push compartment temps up and can mimic an airflow problem. Make sure nothing blocks return vents in the fresh food section, especially deli drawers packed against the back wall. Confirm door gaskets seal well. A poor seal loads the evaporator with moisture, which accelerates frost build-up and can overwhelm the defrost cycle. Targeted Parts and Fixes for the “Freezer OK, Fridge Warm” Complaint Based on repair frequency, here are the parts that most often resolve this specific Whirlpool refrigerator not cooling scenario, along with decision notes you can use to choose correctly. Evaporator fan motor: This motor pulls air across the evaporator, then distributes it. When it slows or stalls, the freezer might still sit near setpoint, but refrigerator temps climb into the 50s. If you hear a stop-and-start chirp or the “helicopter” noise, check for ice contact or a failing bearing. On many bottom-freezer Whirlpool models, the evaporator fan motor location is behind the rear freezer panel. If the fan fails a spin test with power present, replace the motor and inspect the wiring harness and grommets. Air damper control assembly: The damper meters cold air into the fresh food section. If it sticks closed, you can have a perfect freezer and a warm refrigerator. Feel for airflow at the top rear vent of the fridge with the fan running. If it is weak or absent and the damper is commanded open, the damper is suspect. On some French-door units, the damper assembly includes foam channels that can collect frost. Thaw and test before replacing to confirm the failure. Defrost heater and defrost thermostat: When the heater is open or the defrost thermostat fails, frost builds up on the evaporator and blocks airflow. You will see a white frosty mass behind the freezer back panel. Test the heater for continuity when cool, and test the defrost thermostat closed when the sensor is frosty. Replace the failed part and clear the ice thoroughly. If frost returns within 2 to 4 weeks, look to the control or thermistors for scheduling issues. Thermistors: A bad sensor can trick the control into keeping the damper closed or skipping defrost. Use the service sheet tucked under the hinge cover or behind the front grille for resistance charts. If you lack the sheet, a common Whirlpool thermistor reads roughly 8.7K to 10K ohms at 77 F, and rises as temperature falls. Replace out-of-range sensors in pairs if they share harness runs, particularly on older units with brittle connectors. Main control board: Replace only after confirming correct fan operation, proper heater continuity, and accurate thermistor readings. A bad board can cause odd cycling, lights working while fans stay off, or a refrigerator not defrosting even with good heater and thermostat. Whirlpool refrigerator control board troubleshooting often requires entering diagnostic mode. The service tech sheet will list button sequences to force fans, dampers, and defrost. Ice Maker and Water Dispenser Issues That Masquerade as Cooling Problems Homeowners sometimes chase the wrong symptom. A clogged water filter housing or inlet valve that starves the ice maker can trigger an over-ice condition when things resume, which then jams the chute, leading to rattling or grinding noises mistaken for a bad fan. A Whirlpool ice dispenser not working can also leave the freezer door ajar long enough to build frost and disrupt airflow. Check for ice lodged in the chute and verify the ice bucket auger turns freely. If the auger motor hums but does not spin, the coupling may be stripped. If the auger does not receive power in test mode, focus on the door switch and dispenser control. For the water dispenser, first confirm water pressure and filter age. Whirlpool fridge water not working often comes down to a clogged filter or a failing water inlet valve. If you hear a click and a hum but get no water, shut off the supply and inspect the inlet screens. A leaking filter head can also drip into the crisper area and leave you thinking the refrigerator is leaking water on the floor from a defrost drain issue. Trace water from top to bottom. If the drip originates at the filter housing, address that before digging into the defrost drain. If your ice maker model is service part W10659156A, the Whirlpool ice maker replacement W10659156A drops in with existing harness and bail arm. When an ice maker makes ice but will not dispense, check the ice maker arm position, bucket clumping, and the dispenser switch. For persistent low production, confirm the freezer is at 0 to 5 F. Warmer freezers make smaller batches and longer cycles, which can look like a cooling problem in the refrigerator when the door gets opened repeatedly during testing.

3. Lighting, Shelves, and Drawer Components That Affect Performance Lighting problems do not usually cause warm fridge temps, but they complicate diagnostics. The Whirlpool refrigerator LED light control module W10289592, and similar LED boards in French-door models like WRX735SDHZ02, can fail and cascade to other lights on the series circuit. If your WRQA59CNKZ light is not working, test the door switch and confirm 12 to 14 VDC at the module before replacing. Whirlpool refrigerator LED lights not working often points to a failed module rather than a simple bulb. When replacing, match the module suffix to avoid color temperature and brightness mismatches. Drawer slide rails and shelf supports matter more than you might think. When a Whirlpool refrigerator drawer slide rail bends or a shelf sags into the rear return vent, you choke airflow and create warm spots. I have seen deli drawers jammed against the back panel push temperatures up 5 to 10 degrees in that compartment. Keep rails straight and support clips fully seated. If a crisper bin rides rough or falls, replace the rail. It protects your food and the airflow design. For cosmetic Repair Clinic Parts and maintenance items like a Whirlpool refrigerator drip tray replacement, match the color and shape to your dispenser panel. A missing or warped drip tray funnels water under trim pieces, which can seep into the door foam or down to the toe kick and look like a defrost drain leak. A correct Whirlpool drip tray fit avoids that mess and makes everyday cleanup easier. If you are dealing with a Whirlpool fridge light not working, confirm the door switch first. A failed switch can also stop the evaporator fan on some models because the control thinks the door is open, which reduces airflow into the refrigerator section. Maintenance, Manuals, and Simple Fixes That Prevent Warm Fridge Complaints Preventive maintenance buys you years. Clean condenser coils twice a year, especially if you have pets. Keep the rear machine compartment open enough for proper ventilation. Replace water filters on time to prevent pressure-related dispenser problems and to avoid cracked filter heads. Make sure doors close squarely. If your Whirlpool refrigerator beeps or your display panel is not working right, check for door ajar conditions and perform a control reset per the service sheet. Knowing the Whirlpool refrigerator defrost drain location helps you avoid water leaks that refreeze and grow ice around air passages. On most bottom-freezer units, the drain is at the bottom of the evaporator pan, behind the freezer back panel, leading to a tube down to the drain tray near the compressor. If the drain tube clogs, you will see ice under the freezer basket and sometimes water on the floor. To clean it, thaw the ice, flush with warm water, and run a flexible line down the tube until you reach the tray. Do not force it through bends. A small dash of approved drain cleaner or a heated turkey baster of hot water clears sticky residue. Keep your Whirlpool refrigerator manuals and the Whirlpool refrigerator troubleshooting manual handy. Most models hide a service tech sheet either behind the toe kick or under the hinge cover. That single sheet provides diagnostic key combos, sensor values, and wiring diagrams. It is the fastest route to efficient Whirlpool refrigerator repair. If you do not have the printed sheet, you can often find Whirlpool refrigerator parts list manuals and care guides online using your full model and serial numbers. Short, High-Impact Checklist for “Freezer Fine, Fridge Warm” Listen for the evaporator fan with the door switch pressed, then feel for airflow at the fridge damper. Check for frost build-up behind the freezer panel, then test defrost heater and thermostat continuity. Meter thermistors against the resistance chart at known temperatures to catch drifted sensors. Verify condenser fan operation and clean coils to prevent head pressure and temperature creep. FAQs: Whirlpool Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Parts Quick answers to common questions drawn from real repairs and the most frequent Whirlpool refrigerator problems. Why is my Whirlpool fridge not cooling but freezer works? Airflow or control faults. Expect a failed evaporator fan motor, stuck air damper, heavy frost from a defrost failure, or a bad thermistor feeding wrong data. Verify fan operation, check for frost, and meter sensors before assuming a control board.

4. How do I replace the LED light in a Whirlpool refrigerator? Unplug the unit, pop the light cover or module, and inspect the connector. On LED module models, match the exact module number, such as the OEM Whirlpool refrigerator LED light control module W10289592. If multiple lights are out, the hub module likely failed on a shared circuit. Where can I find Whirlpool refrigerator manuals and troubleshooting guides? Look for the tech sheet tucked behind the toe kick or hinge cover. For literature kits and care guides by model, you can also order Whirlpool refrigerator manuals through parts suppliers using your model and serial. What part numbers fix a fridge warm, freezer cold issue most often? Evaporator fan motor assemblies, air damper controls, defrost heaters and thermostats, and temperature sensors. Control boards are less common but do fail. Always confirm with tests, not guesswork. My Whirlpool refrigerator is leaking water on the floor. Is that related? Often a clogged defrost drain. Ice forms under the freezer basket and then melts onto the floor. Clear the drain tube and confirm the drain pan is seated. A leaking filter housing can also send water down Repair Clinic OEM Replacement Parts the cabinet front, so trace the source. The fridge makes a loud, helicopter-like noise. What is it? Usually an evaporator fan blade hitting frost or a failing motor bearing. Defrost the ice and inspect the fan. If the noise returns quickly, test the defrost system components or replace the fan motor if the bearing is rough. Parts and Resources You Can Trust If you are sourcing parts for a Whirlpool refrigerator, match by full model and serial to get the right fit and revisions. For a broad selection of refrigerator parts, shop a reputable supplier. You can find Whirlpool refrigerator parts by model here, including damper controls, evaporator fan motors, and shelf supports. If your diagnosis points to a sensor or thermostat fault, browse OEM Whirlpool temperature sensors and thermistors that match the resistance charts on your tech sheet. For dispenser or ice maker problems that show up alongside cooling complaints, look at genuine Whirlpool ice maker parts. Whirlpool Refrigerator Parts – Reliable OEM Solutions for Common Problems A warm refrigerator with a cold freezer is a classic Whirlpool symptom that rewards methodical testing. Start with airflow: is the evaporator fan moving air and is the damper opening? Check for frost and verify the defrost hardware. Meter the thermistors. Clean the condenser and rule out door seal and packing issues. With those steps, most households avoid unnecessary control board swaps and get to the real fix faster. When you do replace components, use Whirlpool refrigerator parts that match your serial range. You reduce call-backs, align with the control logic, and restore designed performance. If you need a quick path to diagrams, exploded views, and mixed categories of parts, see the Repair Clinic Whirlpool parts list for your exact model. Solid diagnostics paired with the right OEM components will bring the fresh food section back into the safe zone and keep it there.