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CLAY!. BUILDING METHODS. PINCH -. Shaping a clay bowl by squeezing it between the thumb and fingers. COIL -. Using clay ropes to build a vessel. SLAB -. Using rolled-out flat pieces of clay to build a structure. WHEEL THROWN -. Forming clay vessels on a large wheel that turns.
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PINCH- Shaping a clay bowl by squeezing it between the thumb and fingers.
COIL- Using clay ropes to build a vessel.
SLAB- Using rolled-out flat pieces of clay to build a structure.
WHEEL THROWN- Forming clay vessels on a large wheel that turns.
ARMATURE: A skeletal support for sculpture- often wire.
WEDGING: Kneading the clay to remove air bubbles.
ATTACHMENT: • A piece of clay added to another piece of clay. (ie-an arm or a leg) • It’s important that attachments aren’t too thin. • Reinforce attachments by attaching them to another piece of clay.
SCORING: “Scratching” the surface of a piece of clay before it is added to another.
SLIP: Very watery clay mixture that is the consistency of sour cream.
KILN: • A large oven used to fire (harden) clay. • The kiln heats to over 2000 degrees.
CLAY STAGES: • PLASTIC • LEATHERHARD • BONE DRY • BISQUEWARE • GLAZEWARE
1. PLASTIC: Wet, workable clay.
2. LEATHER HARD: Clay that is partially dry. No new clay can be added to clay at this stage (it will crack off).
3. BONE DRY: • Clay that is completely dry and ready to be fired. • MOST BREAKABLE STAGE!!!
4. BISQUEWARE: Clay that has been fired once.
5. GLAZEWARE: Clay that has been fired TWICE after glaze was applied.
CLAY THICKNESS: • Clay should be 3/8” thick (about a finger width). • If clay is too thin: it will break. • If clay is too thick: it will explode (from either trapped air or water).