What Does Shampoo Do? PURPOSE:Clean Hair, Clean Scalp, Clear Hair Pores, Remove Hair Shaft Deposits/Build-upLeave Clean Hair Shiny Healthy Looking • WHY NOT USE CP SOAP ON HAIR? • PH is normally too high and lifts hair cuticle, leaving it open. • CP Soap reacts with certain minerals in most water. The reaction actually causes the two to bind together, causing an insoluble film, left on the hair shaft.
Important Facts: • Hair is Dead so while there are many promises in hair products the purpose is to clean. • If you want to have healthy hair have a healthy body. Little can be done to “repair” once it grows out. • One of the worst ingredients for your hair in retail shampoos are the sulfates. These detergents are cheap and have very good cleaning properties. Additionally, They are excellent foaming agents. Two important qualities in a shampoo, cleansing and lather.
Alternative to Sulfates? • Sulfonates The safety and mildness of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate lies in the absence of a sulfate ion head, which is commonly found in many other surfactants. The sulfate ion, which originates in sulfuric acid, is replaced with the more stable sulfonated ester. This sulfate free surfactant is made with lauryl alcohol, derived from palm kernel oil, which is then condensed with a sulfonated form of acetic acid, or vinegar. It is this charged sulfonated acetate group which gives this molecule its mild surfactant properties. ~ Essential University
What Exactly is Shampoo? INGREDIENTS: • Water • Detergents or Surfactants • Chelating Agents & Emulsifiers • Special Cosmetic Ingredients • Preservatives • Conditioning Agents
Ingredients Necessary for Purpose? • Water Product Enhancement • Detergents or Surfactants Cleans Hair, Clean Scalp, Clears Hair Pores • Chelating Agents, Emulsifiers & Buffering Agents Remove Hair Shaft Deposits/Build Up and Enables Detergents/ Surfactants to be Effective. Also Helps Maintain Acidic PH Levels • Special Cosmetic Ingredients Product Enhancement • Preservatives Product Enhancement Water Makes Necessary • Conditioning Agents Moisture, Humectants, Smoothes Cuticle, Anti Static & Ease of Combing
Ingredients Not Necessary for Purpose • Water Product Enhancement • Special Cosmetic Ingredients Product Enhancement • Preservatives Product Enhancement Water Makes Necessary
Ingredients of Purpose • Detergents or Surfactants Wetting agents that lowers the “surface” tension of Water, allows hair to “hold water” and degrease Simple Chemistry – 4 Types of Surfs Most Commonly Used: Anionic Surfs Sulfates & Amphoteric Surfs Combining surfs from the four different ionic groups makes for beneficial blends that are synergistic when combined for specific hair cleansing needs.
Ingredients of Purpose • Chelating Agents Water Softener, Binds with Minerals Keeps Oil/Dirt Breakdown from Re-Depositing • Emulsifiers Break down Oil and Help Bind for Rinsing • Buffing Agents Stabilize and Adjusts PH to Acidic Most additives do not benefit the hair as much in shampoos or rinse off products. Look to your cream rinses or better yet leave-in conditioners for the value “repair” ingredients.
Ingredients of Purpose • Conditioners Smooth, Lubricate and Moisturize • Silicones Lubricate & Reduce Static – Help Sheen • Moisturizers & Humectants Smooth Cuticle, Draw Moisture into hair • Some Additives Help “repair” hair and strengthen Most additives do not benefit the hair as much in shampoo or anyrinse off product. Look to your conditioners or better yet leave-inconditioners for the most bang for your buck in “repair”ingredients.
Solid Shampoo Ingredients • Detergents or Surfactants Choose 2/3 solid and 1/3 liquid • Emulsifiers Ewax or 2 in One (BTMS-50, OSC, Quats) • Conditioning Agents Butters, Silicones & Panthenol • Extras Fragrance and/or color
Solid Shampoo Ingredients 2 Pounds 13 oz SLSA – 34% 11 oz SCI – 28% 9 oz Liquid Surf – 22% 2.5 oz Emulsifiers 2.5 oz – 7% 1.75 oz Stearic – 4% .75 oz Hard Butters – 1.25% .75 oz Dimethicone - 1.50% .33 oz Pathenol 1.25% .75 oz FO - 1%
Tutorial: • Step 1 Preheat cooker to 200 degrees and start to heat liquid surfactant(s). Slowly turn up heat until 250 degrees and hold. Don’t add SCI until liquid is hot.
Tutorial: • Step 2 Start adding the SCI prills, slowly. It’s a dusty powder and will fly around. Add, slowly – wait between thirds. Once you have all incorporated, cover. Stir often. It will take about 2 hours for the prills to dissolve and the mix to “de-lump”.
Tutorial: • Step 3 Once the mix is “de-lumped” and starts to turn semi transparent, you can add the emulsifier, hardeners, and butters. I don’t preheat, but you can. I leave the steric for last as it has the highest melt point, you will know you are ready for the next step when all the white clumps of stearic acid are gone!
Tutorial: • Step 4 Cut your SLSa into thirds. Turn heat down to 200 degrees. Add first third of SLSa and to save time - make circles to incorporate it into the mix, slowly at first. Keep adding until you have it all in. I wait between thirds to let the powder settle and get “wet”.
Tutorial: • Step 5 The mix will now be really thick like really still stiff mashed potatoes, if it’s like oatmeal cook longer. You WILL have a hard time pushing it around.
Tutorial: • Step 5 • Add the dimethicone and stir well, which will be harder but the dimethicone will give it a bit of lubrication. • Add the panthenol and follow the directions above. • Add the FO and color if desired. • These additions will give you the wetting you need to move the mix into molds more easily.
Tutorial: • Step 6 • Spoon into you mold. If you are using individual molds, leave the mix heated as you mold. If you don’t it will get harden as you work. • You will have to “beat” or knock down the mix, it will be very THICK!
Tutorial: • Step 7 • Let sit for a couple of hours if you are using a mold, this is just for it to settle as it will harden pretty quickly without heat.
Tutorial: • Step 8 • After a couple of hours you can remove the mold and cut the log into slices or in my case chunks for bars.