innovation in Activewear propelling its steady growth

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4. CONTENTS 26 COVER STORY Innovation In Activewear Propelling Its Steady Growth INDUSTRY VERDICT 12I Retail Giants To Various International And National Brands Are Continuously Opening Stores. Is This Growth Landscape Representing The Picture Of The Entire Apparel Retail Industry Or Is This Growth Mainly For A Few Selected Companies? RETAIL RIGHT// //NATIONAL 14I ONDC May Act As A Booster Shot For The Buyers And Sellers - Reimagining The Future Of Digital Commerce p14 ONDC aims to facilitate a shift from an operator-driven monolithic, platform- centric model, to a facilitator-driven, interoperable decentralised network RETAIL RIGHT// //NEWS 17I FREECULTR Becomes The Official Merchandise Partner For FIFA 2022 RETAIL RIGHT// //INTERNATIONAL 19I The Secret Sauce Of Target Demographics In Social Commerce - Buying Pattern Of Different Generations p31 With social commerce, the entire shopping experience from product discovery and research to checkout is different for different generations RETAIL RIGHT// //NEWS 22I LVMH Sales Jump By 19% In The Third Quarter, As A Strong Dollar Boosts Europe Demand EXPERT SPEAKS 24ID2C In India: Opportunities, Challenges And Solutions BUYING & SOURCING 32I Decoding B2B Fashion Marketplaces As The Concept Expands In India p36 Tailor and Circus: Not in the business of making underwear but in the business of making people love themselves MANUFACTURING 35I Eastman Exports Global Clothing On Growth Path, Opening Offices Overseas 4 AO India | November 2022

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6. CONTENTS 36I Kolkata And Tirupur Ensuring Their Growth In Innerwear With Different Focus Altogether MANUFACTURING// //NEWS 40I Shahi Exports’ Anant Ahuja Joins The Board Of The BBI SUSTAINABILITY 44I Efforts Towards Women Workers’ Safe Period Cycle Is A Win-Win For All p44 SUSTAINABILITY// //NEWS 47I Louis Dreyfus Company Project Jagruthi To Support Farmers On Sustainable Cotton Farming Shahi Exports has done a remarkable job for menstrual hygiene management TRENDS IN FOCUS// //RUNWAYS 49I The Megatrend Round-Up From The Fashion Capitals Of The World S/S ’23 Edition FASHION BUSINESS 55I Riding The Metaverse Wave - What Brands Need To Know And Do p49 DESIGNERS & LABELS 59I Gauri & Nainika - Painting Reality In Conversation With The Connoisseurs Of Glamorous Evening Wear In India Key trends round-up from the international runways for S/S ’23 START-UPS 63I Start-Ups Leveraging Technologies In Smart Textiles START-UPS// //NEWS 67I DaMENSCH Will Have 100 Retail Stores By Next Year p55 How to ace the metaverse game TRADE STATISTICS 68 I US Apparel Imports (Jan.-Aug. 2022): Value Of US Apparel Import Crosses US $ 10 Billion In August ’22 EVENT// //NEWS 72 I Hyosung Launches New Fall/Winter ’23/24 Textile Trends At ISPO Munich RESOURCE CENTRE 73I André Lacroix, Intertek Group CEO And Author Of ‘Leadership With Soul’ Shares Insights With Apparel Resources 74I Anju Modi’s ‘Damayanti’ Collection Presented By TENCEL™ Fibre Brand p63 Smart textiles are the most exciting innovation in the field of textile engineering. The development of smart textiles reaches far beyond imagination 6 AO India | November 2022

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8. Editor-In-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Editorial Owner RENU MOHINDRA Editor Printer ASK ADVERTISING AIDS PVT. LTD. Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA & DEEPAK MOHINDRA ILA SAXENA Copy Editor PRIYANKA MISHRA Asst. Editor - News DHEERAJ TAGRA Published from DELHI Asst. Editor - Fashion ANJORI GROVER VASESI Printed at ASK ADVERTISING AIDS PVT. LTD. 88, DSIDC, Okhla Indl. Area, Phase-I, New Delhi-110 020 Phone : 26816824 E-mail: creativegrafix1@gmail.com Asst. Editor - Technical NITISH VARSHNEY Creative Subscription AO India Other Editions AO Bangladesh *This rate is valid only for subscription in India INR 1800.00 12 Issues RAJ KUMAR CHAHAL PEEUSH JAUHARI INR 1800.00 12 Issues Management Director Subscription enquiry +91 9958795706 subscribe@apparelresources.com MAYANK MOHINDRA Advertising enquiry +91-9810058986 rmohindra@apparelresources.com Collaboration enquiry +91 9810611487 mmohindra@apparelresources.com Corporate Office B-32, South Extension-1, New Delhi-110 049 (India) Phone: 91-11-47390000 APPAREL RESOURCES PVT. LTD. All Rights Reserved © 2022 by Apparel Resources Pvt. Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or by any information storage retrieval system, without the written permission of the publisher. EDITIONS INDIA BANGLADESH VIETNAM 8 AO India | November 2022 www.apparelresources.com

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10. EDITOR’S NOTE FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK… Holiday season brings positive sentiments back, at least for now! Inventory gluts in major markets may or may not be over but there is a clear indication that retailers are delighted with the customers’ turnout, especially in the North America market. This September, with the onset of holiday season, the retail sales in the USA witnessed around 8.20 per cent growth on Y-o-Y basis out of which apparel retail sales alone were up by over 4.50 per cent. The positivity was reflected by the export figures of various Asian countries as well. India, from April to August ’22, shipped apparel to the US market worth US $ 2.67 billion noting 25 per cent Y-o-Y growth; Bangladesh’s shipment to the USA valued US $ 4.16 billion, that grew by 48.79 per cent; whereas Sri Lanka noted growth of 38.77 per cent to clock US $ 1.21 billion export revenues. These statistics and positive developments are a huge sigh of relief for factories. We have seen global fashion industry struggling with massive inventory in 2022 that piled up in their stores and warehouses, partly due to shipping delays from sourcing countries and majorly due to retailers’ misjudgment of consumer demand, the ongoing recessionary trends and many other factors such as the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war. The retailers in the USA and even EU kept giving hefty discounts to consumers across apparel items, yet inventory glut remained as the orders that they placed in the beginning of 2022 are still being shipped to the retailers! The retailers have actually planned in advance this year for the busy holiday season and brought apparel products in the market earlier than normal to avoid ongoing supply chain disruptions. However, as we move ahead in 2022, it’s becoming clear that apparel retailers are all set to clear the piled-up inventories in the coming holiday season. All thanks to consumers who, even with persistent inflation, rising interest rates and volatility in the market, aren’t shying away from spending on household priorities. Not just USA, even other markets such as Canada, Japan are starting to see positivity in consumer’s sentiments who are on streets to shop for upcoming holiday season. It’s only the European countries which are showing constraint due to aftereffects of war and recession. Even Brian Cornell, Chairman and CEO of Target USA hinted at the expected robust growth in consumer visit to the store “Economic slowdown triggered inventory bulge but now we have left inventory problem behind. Consumers are excited about these seasonal holiday months and want to celebrate with friends and family, therefore we are focusing on making consumers ready for a big holiday season.” Though the sentiments are positive, the possibility of another slowdown can’t be denied as indicated by the retail industry and that can be only be seen when official US custom data is released for September month. I’m not just speculating this or going by any random report as I have data to back this up! After analysing official US import data, I realised the country imported apparel worth US $ 10.36 billion in August alone – its highest import values in last 50 months. Deepak Mohindra Editor-in-Chief e-mail me at dmohindra@apparelresources.com Deepak Mohindra 10 AO India | November 2022

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12. INDUSTRY VERDICT Q&A Retail giants like Reliance Trends, Reliance Brands, Aditya Birla Group, Arvind to various international and national brands are continuously opening stores to name a few like Puma, Tasva, Forever New, Turtle, Bombay Shirt Company, Octave etc. Is this growth landscape representing the picture of the entire apparel retail industry or is this growth mainly for a few selected companies? If the growth is for the entire apparel retail industry, how do you see it? What are the major factors contributing to the growth? Or if the growth is just for selected companies, why it is so? the offline space. Thirdly, every brand is in a different stage of their lifecycle. As far as our brands Columbia and Adventuras are concerned, we feel we have just started and our offline expansion will continue aggressively for at least a few more years. Some brands might not have this kind of demand, and hence expand more conservatively. scenario very quickly. For instance, when Covid-19 pandemic struck us, we were able to scale back on our expansion and quickly prioritise cash outflow to certain key areas like employee welfare, e-commerce sales etc. Similarly, when customers are thronging the malls back again, we are now well-capitalised to take advantage of the situation and cater to this revenge shopping phenomenon. Also, it’s important to understand that there are certain categories like outdoor, athleisure, casualwear etc., which have higher growth than ever in the past. This has been the pandemic-induced change brought about in the consumer behaviour which has resulted in faster expansion for such brands. It’s also partly true that brands get created in Last but not the least, a lot of mall projects are now materialising post- pandemic, so being part of them comes naturally to top brands like ours. The other way to look at this is that weaker brands had to let go off their retail inventory (due to cost pressures because of the pandemic), and now that space has become available for others to take, hence you also see fair amount of expansion as a result of this. Ankur Bhatia CEO, Chogori India Retail Limited Retail companies which have strong balance sheets are able to forecast and cater to demand better than relatively weaker ones. This helps them to be nimble and be able to adjust to any Business and fashion majorly align at one point and that’s customer’s trust. So, having said that, it’s quite understandable why most brands are opting for stores. From international to national to small businesses, most brands are now opening stores to understand customer preferences and gain their trust without losing the fun and focal essence of retail therapy! believe it leads to growth for the whole industry, for example, it leads to higher demand and profitability for the textile and garment industry as consumption is being increased in the market. Moreover, this also motivates other national and international organised retail to capture a stake in the Indian market, which in turn also leads to opportunities for manufacturers in India to produce and sell locally to the brands. Of course, this shift towards the presence of stores is likely to change the fashion industry’s landscape. I Deepak Aggarwal Founder and MD, Kazo Fashion 12 AO India | November 2022

13. INDUSTRY VERDICT Even with physical mode of operations, the latest trend seems to favour growth where companies prioritise personalisation of services and ease of buying, both made possible through digitisation, as seen in experiments with virtual reality or companies moving to WhatsApp for promotions. The retail sector of India has been seeing a pattern recently, with many national and international brands alike, continuously opening stores. More than representing the growth landscape of the entire retail industry, it is a reflection of what’s in store for brick-and-mortar and how the D2C shopping experience is evolving outside the screens. However, to say that this growth represents the entire apparel industry would be like taking a myopic look at the complete picture. Indian retail, while largely unorganised, is bubbling with potential, both for online and offline modes of business. Growth appears to be different for many but the factors pertaining to it share commonalities. Another key factor is ethics and CSR, especially sustainability as a mission adopted by businesses. This suggests a change in the behaviour of the modern millennial consumer, for whom the choice is no longer just between quality and quantity but also the ethical practices adopted by the businesses they buy from. Daksh Kapoor Chief Marketing Officer, Kapsons Group The entire Indian apparel retail industry is expanding its offline retail stores. The major factors contributing to this growth in offline stores are the pent-up consumer demand for the last two years due to the pandemic, rising awareness and preference for branded apparel in Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities, and an increase in the target consumer base due to rising disposable incomes. Having said that, at Ace Turtle, we believe retail channels will evolve in terms of their relevance. Some will become more relevant whereas others will become less relevant with time. New channels would also come into play. Brands and retailers need to prepare for a channel- agnostic future through the omnichannel route. This means investments must be made in technology, people and upskilling of the existing workforce. Based on our experience of providing SaaS-based technology solutions to brands and retailers, we have seen that adoption and change management are often the most critical aspects determining the success or failure of this approach. The top leadership of the companies need to take the onus of adoption and change management. Fortunately, we were native to omnichannel when we started our journey 9 years ago as an omnichannel SaaS enabler. This was a huge plus for us when we launched our Licensed Brands vertical with Lee and Wrangler in India. Nitin Chhabra CEO, Ace Turtle NEXT INDUSTRY VERDICT QUESTIONS E-commerce giant Flipkart has recently unveiled Flipverse, a virtual shopping experience in a bid to expand its metaverse offerings. Prior to this, luxury & designer label Papa Don’t Preach had entered into metaverse and famous designer Manish Malhotra took the NFT route to launch his digital collection. Few of the other Indian brands or designers are also on the same path. But unlike overseas, where brands have successfully commercialised metaverse, Indian brands and companies so far have not been successful in connecting with customers on this front. What more needs to be done in this regard so that Indian consumers can have similar transactions like overseas customers? SEND YOUR COMMENTS contact@apparelresources.com November 2022 | AO India13

14. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NATIONAL ONDC MAY ACT AS A BOOSTER SHOT FOR THE BUYERS AND SELLERS - REIMAGINING THE FUTURE OF DIGITAL COMMERCE disadvantage of being shackled to old processes and digital infrastructure. For instance, a typical small retailer with an 800 sq.ft. store used to sell T-shirts and shorts and produced earnings close to an average of Rs. 4,000 daily but the scenario changed when people started ordering online and the retailer’s income slashed drastically. Such incidents are not only limited to one store; there are millions of stores facing the same problem. As per Statista, unorganised retail stands at 88 per cent (2019), and the explosion of e-commerce have been the toughest for small mom-and-pop stores or small retailers. To overcome these concerns, an initial idea by Piyush Goyal and led by 9 members of the advisory board, a new According to reports, through the investment of just US $ 24 billion, Amazon and Flipkart have reportedly captured 80 per cent of India’s retail market with aggressive discounts and special offers for preferred sellers alone, impelling the MSMEs and new retailers into a vulnerable position. ONDC, the government- backed open network e-commerce platform, will cost small retailers a quarter of what they pay to e-commerce platforms like Amazon and Flipkart to access their technologies and processes. More than 20 government and private organisations have confirmed Rs. 255 crore investment. New apparel retailers in India are often faced with the challenges of accessing the benefits of digital commerce because of the monopoly of existing big retailers. Whether it is to capitalise on larger markets; engage customers in superficially rich e-commerce experiences that transcend borders; or find new ways to deliver compelling shopping experiences, new retailers are at a 14 AO India | November 2022

15. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NATIONAL network model named Open Network for Digital Commerce (ONDC) was curated that promises to break through these constraints and gradually unleash the transformative power of digital commerce in India. Some key stakeholders such as SBI, HDFC Bank, Axis Bank, BSEI & NSEI, Quality Council of India have shown faith in the system, which would help by plugging in small traders and retailers and providing them wide reach with set protocol for cataloguing, vendor match and price discovery on an open- source basis. “The seriousness and commitment by GoI to push Digital India and take it to a bigger and larger canvas is commendable. The arrival of ONDC is going to be the defining moment in the times to come. It’s going to open floodgates for MSMEs to generate more employment and deeper penetration in the untapped areas of this vast market,” said Vikram Singh, Sr. VP Sourcing, DBS Lifestyle. ONDC is expected to digitise the entire value chain, help standardise operations, drive logistical efficiency, and, most importantly, curb the monopolies of the platform-centric model that leads to market concentration. It can be beneficial to new entrants because ONDC is not controlled or owned by a single identity and also helps improve the discoverability and accessibility of products across the platform, provides equal opportunities for small retailers, follows transparent practices and offers lower order acquisition costs. Complete e-commerce solution will accelerate growth for new apparel retailers Retailers and product manufacturers need not worry about segments like logistics and warehousing. Once their catalogue is available digitally, there will be many opportunities open to every single segment in this large ecosystem with a nationwide market such as enterprise resource planners, e-commerce store hosting service providers, etc. Retailers will no longer have to pay commissions to the enabling platform, unlike today’s proprietary systems. ONDC will ensure that buyers and sellers use the same platform for all online business transactions, basically moving from a platform-centric to a network- centric model. Basically, it is a network of buyers, sellers and gateways that uses open APIs to exchange information. The network is designed to allow for the discoverability of all sellers by multicasting the search request received from buyer applications to all seller applications based on criteria such as location, availability and other customer preferences. Initially, it starts with a single gateway to kick-start the operations, but this can later be expanded to more gateways. To be precise, companies such as Dunzo, Load share and Ship rocket offer logistics services. Protean eGov Technologies Ltd (formerly NSDL e-Gov) is behind the gateway services. NowFloats and Plotch are technology service providers, Kiko Live is the industry’s live video shopping platform and the e-commerce platform Snapdeal, which offers fashion and other services, will encourage buyers and sellers to join the ONDC network. Craftsvilla, CSC Grameen eStore, Ekart, Shopalyst, etc., are already onboard, and around 500 companies, including small start-ups, are in the advanced stage of integration and are expected to come online soon. Transaction data will reside only with the buyer and seller applications and will not be visible to ONDC. ONDC will not be storing/ viewing transaction data. November 2022 | AO India15

16. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NATIONAL With lower costs, higher flexibility and simplified operations, this merger will accelerate growth. A variety of payment options, lower transaction fees and no registration fee make ONDC affordable for new retailers, making it easy to start selling on the platform. “Small retailers are delighted that there’s going to be a way for them to participate in the global digital e-commerce world. It is going to give a big boost to hyper-local commerce, quick commerce,” said Nandan Nilekani, Non-executive Chairman of Infosys and Member of advisory council of ONDC. Consumers will have a vast variety of choices and freedom to choose In the present scenario, the bigger e-commerce giants only allow customers to reach those whom the company wants to endorse. Due to this, customer choices are restricted. Also, customers on the specific platform can access that particular platform but now things are changing as ONDC acts as a neutral platform that creates protocols around price and vendor match. For example, if Vendor X is registered on Platform A and the consumer is registered on Platform B, ONDC enables access to transactions between Vendor X and Consumer B, eliminating the need to lock into a specific e-commerce platform. It also allows consumers to match demand with the closest available supply. This would also allow the sellers to provide the consumer with a vast product assortment to choose from. Being open and free, the sellers in ONDC no longer need to pay commission to the enabling platform, unlike today’s proprietary platforms. As per T. Koshy, CEO, ONDC, a seller can be on Amazon (get its benefits) and still be on ONDC as well (to expand their reach and penetration). Strategy to onboard buyers and sellers With ONDC, the GoI aims to restore the balance of power. By creating a digital marketplace, commonly accessible to all, as it should be, ONDC will empower sellers and buyers to gain the same visibility and advantages as their larger counterparts. ONDC does not require special apps as it is available on major e-commerce platforms, just like UPI is as a payment method. Adoption will be driven through these integrations. The three main focal points of discoverability, interoperability and product review will push both parties to come along together on the ONGC platform. E-commerce players can join hands with ONDC to protect their own user base and business models. “As the protocol stabilises, more and more e-commerce players will be integrating to bring the benefits of ONDC to their users. The Government is already working with Paytm, one of the largest in terms of reach. I believe that citizens are tired of the poor customer service from major e-commerce players and are more likely to give smaller players a chance. Moreover, this Government is very good at spreading knowledge about Government programmes and I find ONDC using the same tools to get people to talk about it. Finally, I feel citizens are also pushing With efforts to increase e-commerce penetration from 8 percent to 25 percent of all consumer purchases in 2 years and to sign up 90 crore buyers and 12 lakh sellers on the shared network within the next 5 years, the country’s open retail network route seems to be fast-tracked. for the adoption of it,” said Himanshu Sukhwani, Founder, WhatCX. ONDC may not be a challenger but a facilitator ONDC does not compete with other marketplaces. ONDC creates connections between retailers and buyers so that sellers can take advantage of both marketplaces like Amazon, Myntra, Flipkart and ONDC. The platform does nothing to impede the growth of others; rather, it serves as a facilitator for digital commerce, but the larger retailer giants have a different say on it. For them, a lot of monetary investment in technology and processes is already done, and integrating into a new platform might be challenging but the talks are underway. “We are looking at ONDC very closely and are working to build a seamless integration, allowing businesses to set up shops within Whatsapp connected with ONDC. It’s still early days, but our consumers are already excited by the possibilities this opens up. No more website, no apps, no technology overhead - just ease of business, one platform that is already accessible to users.” Everything depends on the adaptability and grey areas can be changed after seeing the results post the complete phases are over but it should always be remembered that these small retail traders are the backbone of the Indian retail economy and if this segment is excluded, it will directly impact the financial data of the economy which will shake the pillars of growth. Though ONDC gives enough leverage to unbundle the supply chain in the upcoming five years, the picture will be clearer as the efforts to push the Indian e-commerce industry to US $ 200 billion by 2027 seems strong. - Himanshu Sukhwani Sukhwani, Founder, WhatCX 16 AO India | November 2022

17. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com FREECULTR becomes the official merchandise partner for FIFA 2022 arm shields, active joggers and sweatshirts. FREECULTR, keeping its promise of premium innerwear brand, has exclusively planned to launch FIFA men’s briefs and trunks. Shrey Luthra has also forged a strategic relationship with Amazon.in for FREECULTR towards the collection’s promotion and marketing on the marketplace. Shrey further adds, “This is a special year for India in many other ways. It is the first time that the FIFA under-17 women’s World Cup India 2022™, an extremely prestigious event, is being held in India. FREECULTR is showing its support for the event and the game by introducing a unique range of products for all women with its FIFA World Cup 2022™ collection.” The sustainable, slow-fashion brand FREECULTR has inked a strategic partnership with FIFA and come on board as the official merchandise partner of FIFA 2022™. The FIFA under-17 Women’s World Cup India 2022 is being held in India between 11 and 30 October 2022. And with India celebrating its 75th year of Independence this year, this partnership adds an interesting touch to the sentiment of Azadi ka Mahotsav, giving football fans and all Indians a reason to be proud of, as it is the first D2C brand to achieve this. FREECULTR, as FIFA’s licensed apparel merchandiser for India, will manufacture, sell and distribute apparel merchandise in India for FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022™. Shrey Luthra, CEO and Co- founder of FREECULTR, said “It is a matter of pride for FREECULTR to be one of the first D2C brands of India to deliver the much- weighted FIFA World Cup™ merchandise. Having received the FIFA World Cup™ official license for manufacturing premium quality apparel and accessories, we promise to uphold our brand’s make and philosophy with honest pricing for millions of Indians.” The D2C brand has lined up a comprehensive range that will be exclusively retailed on the official FREECULTR website, freecultr.com and e-commerce giant Amazon.in. The merchandise will include T-shirts, active tanks, bandanas, United Colors of Benetton India appoints Kaveri Nag as Head of Marketing and PR Leading brand United Colors of Benetton (UCB) India has appointed Kaveri Nag as the new Head of Marketing & PR, India. Kaveri is an alumnus of Delhi University and holds a Post Graduate Diploma in Marketing Communications from National Institute of Advertising. Kaveri will lead marketing strategy and PR for the brand and work to strengthen Benetton’s vision of a global lifestyle project and revolutionise the canons of fashion and sales. One of her key responsibilities will include engaging with consumers and reconnecting in a more contemporary way to make the brand more desirable and aspirational in India. Ramprasad Sridharan, CEO, UCB India, said, “Throughout her career, Kaveri has accumulated vast marketing leadership experience and has relentless energy and curiosity to understand consumer behaviour, which is ever so dynamic in the fashion industry. This is her second stint with Benetton and we are confident that Kaveri will be a driving force in bringing our new brand vision to life through world-class creative, digital and omnichannel marketing strategies, and play a leading role in building the next generation of Benetton customers.” Kaveri Nag said, “Benetton has always been a brand that’s ahead of the curve, and I’m excited to embark on this new journey with the team amidst an ever-evolving consumer landscape. Together, we will meet these new realities head-on, with a digital-first approach towards creating and engaging with relevant brand experiences for customers across different categories. I look forward to strengthening Benetton’s iconic positioning as a premium casualwear brand by pushing cultural and creative boundaries.” November 2022 | AO India17

18. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Reliance Retail partners with NBA to launch its merchandise S N I P S Reliance Brands to open its first Valentino boutique store in New Delhi Reliance Retail, a subsidiary of Reliance Retail Ventures Ltd., has partnered with NBA for a multi-year collaboration to sell the organisation’s merchandise at its stores in India. Built around five professional sports leagues – the NBA, WNBA, NBA G League, NBA 2K League and Basketball Africa League – NBA has established a major international presence with games and programming available in 214 countries and merchandise for sale. The latest products are available at selected Reliance Retail stores across India and on a variety of e-commerce platforms including Reliance Retail’s website. Reliance Retail will also offer interactive NBA experiences for visitors in stores such as sweepstakes, Reliance Premium  menswear  brand Selected Homme launches a new digital campaign with brand ambassador Saif Ali Khan presenting the brand’s Autumn/ Winter 2022 collection Foundation Jr. NBA activations and game highlights on TVs at the store. India, we make sure they have the same opportunities as Americans. That’s why we expanded our availability”. The collaboration with Reliance Retail would strengthen its retail presence in India, said NBA Senior Vice President of International Licensing and Business Development, Rob Millman. He also added that, “As the NBA continues to become more popular in Reliance Retail President & CEO (fashion and lifestyle) Akhilesh Prasad was equally thrilled and said: “Our goal is to ensure that Reliance Retail stores are the go-to destination for NBA fans across the country.” Alia Bhatt’s D2C fashion brand Ed-a-Mamma plans to expand its reach in international markets Nykaa Fashion brings Revolve to Indian consumers Raw Mango launches new collection ‘Peacock Country’ Nykaa Fashion has partnered with California-based fashion retailer Revolve valued at US $ 1.23 billion to launch the latter’s brands in the Indian market. With this association, Nykaa Fashion will house over 400 brands across apparel, footwear and accessories, from the global powerhouse Revolve on its online platform. Adwaita Nayar, Co-founder of Nykaa, during the launch, expressed happiness to onboard an international partner like Revolve that offers a great portfolio of brands. She also mentioned that Revolve’s approach to fashion is an ideal match of diversity and inclusion along with style, and celebrity- loved offerings with dedicated sustainable goals. Luxury kidswear brand Les Petits launches exclusive collection for the Indian festive season The partnership with Nykaa Fashion is a natural fit that aligns with Revolve’s brand principles, which aim to deliver an elevated customer experience with their wide catalogue of international styles to the Indian market, said Kai Li, Vice President at Revolve. He added that he is equally excited to work with Nykaa Fashion. Monte Carlo Fashions records revenue growth of 5 per cent in Q2 of FY ’23 18 AO India | November 2022

19. RETAIL RIGHT/ /INTERNATIONAL THE SECRET SAUCE OF TARGET DEMOGRAPHICS IN SOCIAL COMMERCE -BUYING PATTERN OF DIFFERENT GENERATIONS spend online. And it’s not just for the same platform. The report says that each month, 7.5 social media platforms are visited. and each demographic has a different personality but you don’t just think about it as the demographic’s personality. You have to also layer in the age of all those people in that demographic.” Global social commerce sales are estimated at US $ 992 billion in 2022 with a prediction to reach nearly US $ 3 trillion by 2026 as per online data shared by Statista. It’s no secret that social media has taken the world by storm. What started out as a way to connect with friends and family has quickly morphed into a powerful marketing and sales tool for businesses of all sizes. The Digital 2022 Global Overview report found that people spend an average of 2 hours and 27 minutes each day on social media, which is more than one-third of all the time people aged between 16 to 64 Different generations, different social commerce interactions Factors such as staying in touch with friends and family, searching for solutions and information, looking for ideas and sources of entertainment, promoting professional and personal networks, and of course, buying and selling are some of the major uses of social media for people. Mark Mcintyre, CEO of Max audience says, “Social media is driven by the interests of a specific person, you just look at the demographics And while many businesses are still trying to figure out how to make social media work for them, there are some businesses that are really good at it and use it to drive traffic to their e-commerce sites, collect customer data, improve the customer experience and sell products by understanding the different generations of buyers which are Gen Z (age 18-24), millennials (age 25- 40), Gen X (age 41-56) and Baby Boomers (age 57-74). Social media purchasing habits are largely based on individual interests, but the age of the person also has a bearing on which channels they use. Baby Boomers or Parents, for example, may turn to Facebook to interact with other parents, while teenagers might turn to Snapchat. Each generation has a different way of using social media, which influences their purchase patterns. November 2022 | AO India19

20. RETAIL RIGHT/ /INTERNATIONAL Another example is Facebook. As per a study, its popularity is declining among younger generations with only 36 per cent of Generation Z using Facebook at least once a week, compared to 87 per cent of millennials, 90 per cent of Generation X and 96 per cent of baby boomers. Gen Z (aged 18- 24) wants 24/7 customer service This is one of the generations that doesn’t keep in touch with family via social media but use social media to kick off their status and buying needs. With 43 per cent having already purchased natively from a social media platform, Gen Z consumers have increased their use of social media in the last year, and 45 per cent expect it to continue to increase over the next three years. This is and will continue to be a huge trend driver across the social media landscape. This is a generation that is all about instant gratification - what they want, when they want but they don’t jump through hoops to get it. That’s why social selling is so effective with this demographic. Generation Z is the most technologically savvy and diverse generation yet. They rely heavily on social media for reviews and recommendations and are less likely to sign up for loyalty programmes despite looking for ways to save money. Instead, they prefer engaging with brands that use social selling techniques. Platforms like Snapchat, Instagram and Tik Tok are the most important medium now for them for buying or selling any product. With the generation’s least patience, it’s very important to grab their attention span in the 5-second window. “If they see something their friends are using or talking about, they are much more likely to take the leap and buy it themselves. So, if you’re looking to market to Generation Z, focus on your social media presence and make sure you are using social selling techniques. You’ll be able to reach them where they are already spending the majority of their time and you’ll be able to connect with them on a level that resonates,” said a spokesperson of a high-end brand. Hence brands are creating shareable and visually effective infographics to appeal to Generation Z, and so they need to be authentic and transparent. Millennials (Aged 25-40) are way too experimental The Millennial generation is the first generation to come of age of technology. Being an open-minded and tolerant generation, they use social and other digital technologies to connect with brands. They are most likely than other generations to purchase products and services through social media platforms and even research the products and services. Marketing strategies that work well with this generation includes social media marketing, influencer marketing and content marketing. They prefer brands with lower prices rather than price drops from offers and deals. They expect authentic brand messaging and seek out brands that support social or environmental causes and price-to-value ratio. This hyper-connected generation relies on user-generated content, which makes word-of- mouth advertising more potent than ever before. Instagram remains their favourite social media handles to access information and interact and make online purchases followed by e-commerce platforms. Generation X (Aged 41-56) stays at one arm’s distance from social media transactions Generation Xers are a unique bunch who are triggered by ‘Nostalgia’. They’re the ones who came of age in the wake of the hippie movement. One of the most common misconceptions is that Generation X do not buy anything online. The buying power of this demographic is often overlooked because they are not as active on social media as millennials. However, this generation is more cautious and skeptical of brands and enjoys thorough research, and prefers to stick to what they know. Having various buying habits that differ from those of millennials and baby boomers, one thing 64% of Gen Z consumers expect a more personalised experience on social media based on previous interactions 61% of Gen Z consumers want companies to know them better based on their social media activity 52% of Gen Z consumers expect companies to read and analyse their social media posts 35% of GenZ reach out to companies on social media to express love for a product or service 61% millennials use social media to communicate with family, friends and acquaintances 51% millennials use social media to kill time 47% millennials use social media to learn about new trends 43% millennials use social media to get breaking news 20 AO India | November 2022

21. RETAIL RIGHT/ /INTERNATIONAL remains the same - they tend to be independent, resourceful and self-sufficient and are incredibly adept at using technology but using social media for shopping is rare in their cases. Social media is a place to keep in touch with family and friends and participate in any community activity online. They usually share their opinion online and are very much influenced by the compelling user-generated content in digital marketing campaigns. “There’s no question that Gen Xers are a key demographic for e-commerce platforms like Amazon or Alibaba, and they continue to be a loyal customer base. In fact, a recent study found that 80 per cent of Gen Xers say they trust e-commerce platforms more because it’s easy for them to research products, compare prices and get great deals without even leaving their houses.” It’s clear that Amazon is doing something right when it comes to attracting and retaining Gen Xer customers. With their combination of great deals, convenience and customer reviews, they have created a shopping experience that is tailored specifically to the needs and wants of this important demographic. Baby Boomers (Aged 57-74) are underrated and may turn the trend with impulse buying As the world becomes more and more digital, social media is increasingly becoming a key way for businesses to market them through social media. This has created a whole new set of challenges for businesses, which now need to consciously address how they engage with different demographics on social media. By understanding social performance in relation to key demographics, companies can figure out what content resonates with their customer base and identify market trends that can influence how and where they show up online. It’s no longer enough to have a presence on social media; businesses need to be active and engage in conversations that are happening online. By understanding demographic data, companies can adjust their social media strategy to better reach their target audiences. This is especially important as social media use continues to grow among the older generation. While younger people are still the most active users of social media, adoption rates among adults aged 35 and up are increasing rapidly. In order to stay ahead of the curve, businesses need to understand how different demographics use social media and what kind of content resonates with them. Only then can they create a strategy that will ensure they’re reaching the right people with the right message and have greater consumers instead of visitors. 40% of Baby Boomers view social media as an essential part of their lives and 73% use it to stay connected with friends and family. their products and services. For example, Baby Boomers were hesitant to embrace online shopping when it first became popular in the late 1990s/early 2000s. According to Forbes, baby boomers’ control 70 per cent of the disposable income in the United States. But now, seniors are among the fastest-growing demographic of online shoppers globally. In fact, baby boomers account for US $ 7 trillion in annual spending despite only 36 per cent of them using social media for buying. Facebook and LinkedIn are the most important platforms for baby boomers. They use Facebook groups for community building, purchases, and product discovery. We wonder, what Generation Alpha will be looking for!! In addition, baby boomers are more likely to make impulse purchases than any other age group. This is because they are less likely to do research before making a purchase and tapping them surely means reaching out to a large number of buyers who are likely to do impulse purchases. With customers preferring the online platform more, companies have to adapt and find ways to engage with November 2022 | AO India21

22. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com LVMH sales jump by 19% in the third quarter, as a strong dollar boosts Europe demand S N I P S Nike selects JD Sports and Zalando as partners for the Connected Partnership programme The Fashion & Leather Goods business group recorded revenue growth of 31 per cent in the first nine months of 2022 (24 per cent in organic). With growth continuing at the same pace, sales reached US $ 19.2 billion, up by 19 per cent as compared to last year. Mango launches collection to support breast cancer research ”Europe, the United States and Japan, up sharply since the start of the year, benefited from the solid demand of local customers and the recovery in international travel,” the group said in its press release. Superdry climbing steadily towards profitability; has announced its financial results for the fiscal year ending 30 April 2022, reporting an adjusted profit before tax of £ 21.9 million LVMH beat market forecasts in the third quarter, posting a brisk rise in sales as Americans in Europe made the most of the strong dollar along with improved business in China due to partial easing of health restrictions. As per reports, Marks & Spencer introduces new digital payment option ‘Sparks Pay’ Swedish fashion giant H&M witnesses fall in profits owing to Russia exit To offer a more personalised and digitally-driven customer experience and reposition the business for future growth, Marks& Spencer has introduced a new digital payment option exclusively for its M&S Sparks membership customers. ‘Sparks Pay’ consists of a digital credit account, offering ‘one-click’ purchases and balance tracking. It comes as Marks & Spencer continues to see success with its M&S Sparks loyalty programme, which it noted has grown to 16 million customers since its launch in 2020. Customers can apply for credit online through digital channels, obtain credit decisions online for up to 500 pounds, and receive up to 45 days of interest-free credit. Full UK’s LK Bennett sees its gross profit surge by 55 per cent to £ 21.7 million UK brand Sweaty Betty reports a 45 per cent increase in FY turnover credit and affordability checks are also in place. Retailer’s CEO, Paul Spencer said in a statement that he was thrilled to be offering a new and simple way to pay for Sparks customers that are carefully linked with Marks & Spencer and offer a smooth online shopping and payment experience, further expanding options to pay. ‘Sparks Pay’ is initially rolling out through a phased launch across the British retailer’s website and app and later would expand nationwide during 2023. HanesBrands teams up with the University of California, Berkeley, as Primary Apparel Partner 22 AO India | November 2022

23. RETAIL RIGHT/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Levi’s cuts 2022 profit forecast due to weaker demand and a strong dollar Levi Strauss & Co., lowered its full-year profit forecast owing to declining demand and a strengthening US dollar, adding to the concerns, and sending shares down by 6 per cent in extended trading. With decades of high inflation, consumers are shifting their focus away from high-priced products and apparel to everyday products, which is also impacting Levi’s profits. The company is more cautious about doing business in Europe and US as consumers in the region face much higher inflation and higher energy costs, as well as consumers in the US are also having quite a bit of trouble with inflation and thoughts of recession, said the CEO Charles Bergh and analyst Jessica Ramirez respectively. They also added that people will be more concerned about where they spend their money this holiday season. Levi’s adjusted gross margin was 56.9 per cent, down 60 basis points from a year ago, due to the rapidly rising dollar and higher product costs. The jeans maker, which has faced supply chain disruptions since the pandemic began, now worsened by the Russia- Ukraine war, has raised prices on its denim to combat rising costs. Levi’s expects full-year net sales growth of 6.7 per cent to 7.0 per cent or 11.5 per cent to 12 per cent at constant exchange rates. Previously, the company had forecast net sales growth of 11 per cent to 13 per cent. In 2022, the company now expects adjusted earnings of US $ 1.44 to US $ 1.49 per share, compared to the previous US $ 1.50 to US $ 1.56. Victoria’s Secret & Co.’s third quarter results confirm Q3 forecasts Operating income for Victoria’s Secret & Co.’s third quarter is projected to be near the top of its previously announced guidance range of US $ 10 million to US $ 40 million, and earnings are projected to be towards the previously communicated guidance range of US $ 0.00 to US $ 0.25 per diluted share. “Led by our two category-defining brands and a global business positioned to increase market share, our goal is clear – to be the world’s leading fashion retailer of intimate apparel,” said Chief Executive Officer, Martin Waters. He added, “Our company’s dominant market position in the company’s global reach through international partners, adding new brands and concentrating on markets and clientele that are underrepresented in the portfolio of the company Finally, ‘Transform the Foundation’, by building a modern, high-performing organisation to deliver efficiencies and to invest in people and culture Martin Waters also added, “We have created a solid financial platform during the last 15 months as a public company. With our new operating structure in place, we now have even greater agility and an aligned focus on our customers and our strategic priorities.” domestic intimate category is a crucial asset and area for expansion. We are inspired by the response of our consumers to our brand transformation and we’re still committed to building Victoria’s Secret reputation that both consumers and our employees deserve.” Victoria’s Secret outlined three strategic growth pillars for better performance ahead including: Firstly ‘Strengthen the Core’: expanding market share in key categories of bras, intimates and beauty, while being more inclusive and drawing in a wider customer base with more engaging storytelling in both offline stores and online. Secondly ‘Ignite Growth’: expanding the November 2022 | AO India23

24. EXPERT SPEAKS D2C IN INDIA: OPPORTUNITIES, CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS outlets, they may shop at an online marketplace with all offerings such as Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra etc. Even D2C customers may not stay loyal if their preferred product is sold out or if other brands provide similar products. According to a survey by Profitero, during the pandemic, up to 53 per cent of people bought something from a different brand than the one they had planned to buy. To retain customers, D2C brands need to stand out by giving customers something they can’t get anywhere else and do it fast. Cost of Acquisition For D2C brands, social media is the best way to reach to new customers. But as competition has grown, the cost per thousand impressions on social media sites has gone up. More companies are trying to get people’s attention. Also, because platforms don’t share data in the same way, companies may put a lot of money into one channel without realising it doesn’t bring in high-value customers. D2C marketers need advanced technologies that can collect and merge user data from a wide range of channels so that they can figure out where their customers are coming from. Most marketers don’t want to gather this information manually as it’s too hard and prone to errors, given that customers visit several channels. Order Fulfillment Managing logistics well is another big problem that needs to be solved, especially for small or medium-sized D2C players. As a D2C brand grows, the number of orders increases and it gets harder to manage day-to-day business. Keeping track of inventory levels, picking, packing, and shipping are all things that get increasingly challenging as the business scales significantly. Working capital D2C companies often have their markets divided into various zones with their own sales teams and demand planners. These teams come up with their own sales forecast which may not reflect the be worth around US $ 22 billion, more than 10 per cent of the total market. According to a survey, more than 50 per cent of people prefer to buy directly from a brand’s maker. Some of the main reasons for this retail revolution are Gen Y’s shopping habits, the rise of consumers in India and the increasing reliability of e-commerce enablers and payment gateways. Another factor contributing to the D2C boom is the ease of setting up online stores, made possible by start-ups and new-age companies that have developed payment infrastructure, filled in the gaps in logistics, provided technology to brands, and made it possible for them to create online storefronts. So how can brands tap into these opportunities while battling the challenges? Read on to find out. Key challenges faced by D2C brands For D2C brands, product and marketing are the two biggest focus areas. They should explore outsourcing other functions to partners who have domain expertise. The challenges faced by D2C brands in the early breakthrough periods can hinder e-commerce growth - from sales conversion to logistical delays. Here are three challenges faced by D2C business models: Customer Retention Many D2C brands have relied on customer loyalty to stay in business, but customer loyalty is slowly becoming short-lived. And the basic reason is simple – they seek simplicity and comfort. For example, instead of shopping from several D2C BERRY SINGH COO, ACE TURTLE Even though the direct-to-consumer (D2C) model has been around since 2015, it gained popularity during the pandemic in 2020. According to Inc42, more than 800 Indian D2C brands are already clocking over US $ 2 billion in sales. However, the real challenge lies in growing the business in the face of increasing competition. Many people have a hard time finding growth drivers and putting them into action on a large scale. India’s 700 million internet users and 180-190 million online shoppers make it the third-largest market for D2C brands after the US and China. In 2020, consumer demand for most D2C brands via website rose by 88 per cent compared to the years before Covid-19. The Indian D2C market is currently believed to be worth US $ 1.9 billion, about 1 per cent of the domestic market for consumer goods, home goods and consumer accessories. By FY ’25, it is expected to 24 AO India | November 2022

25. EXPERT SPEAKS actual demand patterns. They also face the challenge of inventory visibility over every point in the supply chain. Moreover, there is always a possibility of human error or bias which will result in overstocking and wasted working capital. Hence there is a need to optimise inventory to make efficient use of available working capital. Opportunities for D2C brands As more people go online, it gives D2C brands the perfect opportunity to meet their needs. Here are some of the opportunities that D2C brands can take advantage of: Inclination towards Digitisation Digitisation has given brands access to the data they did not have earlier. This gives the brands access to data, which can be used to tailor the customer experience. For one, brands can reach out to their customers in a much more precise and targeted way. Gen Z customers that rely heavily on digital media for trends are more inclined to try new brands and make online purchases for themselves. This increasing trend of personal purchasing aligns perfectly with D2C’s targeted and personalised shopping proposition. Push towards sustainability Most millennials and Gen Z customers care about more things than just buying a product. They think about how their purchase decisions will affect the environment and their future. This is why they prefer to shop from environmentally- conscious brands. Unsurprisingly, in the next ten years, more D2C companies will put sustainability at the centre of what they do. Brands will also use missions that attract shoppers from different backgrounds to make a stronger connection with them based on hope and happiness. As more D2C start-ups emerge in India, investors will become more interested in this industry. It won’t be far-fetched to say that D2C brands will lead the current decade’s retail revolution. This is because digitalisation is moving faster and consumers’ shopping habits are changing significantly. The fragmented customer base will help both small and major D2C retailers to not only coexist but also flourish. Omnichannel Strategy Customers today opt for retailers which offer a consistent and seamless experience across all touchpoints. When a potential customer goes to a brand’s website, they can get a complete picture of the products, their prices and the different ways they can connect with the brand. Even so, not all Indian shoppers like to buy things online. So, if brands want to be successful in a hybrid ecosystem, they should use an omnichannel strategy. This strategy helps to combine online and offline channels to raise brand awareness, reach customers online or in person, and create an amicable relationship between the brand and its customers. The key to ensuring that e-commerce store meets the goal of omnichannel shopping is to use technology platforms like Rubicon. November 2022 | AO India25

26. COVER STORY COVER STORY The increasing participation of women in sports activities and the promotion of activewar as casualwear has led to the expansion of the activewear market in India INNOVATION IN ACTIVEWEAR PROPELLING ITS STEADY GROWTH activewear category and launched a new sub-brand ‘Flex’. There are many more such examples that show how across the globe, brands and retailers have tilted towards the activewear category. Indeed, across all levels, be it D2C brands, celebrity brands, budding start-ups and Instagram sellers, the activewear product category is in constant demand from the last few years. significant factor leading to the growth of this product category which is further supported by the active lifestyle of people. Blurring lines with many product categories like workwear or workout wear is also an important supporting factor contributing to the demand. Various market studies are also bullish about the growth trajectory in India - from a market size of US $ 5.83 billion in 2018, the Indian market for activewear is estimated to reach US $ 12.47 billion by 2024 (footwear includes approximately 50 per cent). At the global level, the activewear market is expected to have an effective In the US, Target’s activewear brand All in Motion hit US $ 1 billion in sales one year after launching. In India, the biggest retail giant, Reliance Retail is expanding the presence of its high-performance and technologically advanced activewear brand ‘Performax’ through exclusive brand outlets (EBOs) at Reliance Retail’s fashion and lifestyle stores and digital platforms as well as in multi-brand outlets. It already has a presence across over 1000 stores in 330+ cities. Just six months back, Van Heusen of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd (ABFRL), a premium lifestyle brand for professionals, entered into the Compared to various markets across the globe, India is the fastest-growing market of this segment growing at the rate of 13.9 per cent CAGR. Combination of innovations with fashion is the most 26 AO India | November 2022

27. COVER STORY Shweta Bhatia Abhay Bahugune Ujjawal Asthana is now overcrowded as many players are there. However, irrespective of the growing number of brands, this segment will have continuous demand going ahead. ergonomic design, anti-bacterial and anti- microbial formulations. Looking at the opportunities in the activewear segment, Eight Roads Ventures, a global venture capital firm, recently invested in BlissClub, a D2C women’s activewear brand which is on track to hit Rs. 100 crore in annual revenue run-rate. Shweta Bhatia, Partner, Head of technology investments, Eight Roads Ventures, India says, “Activewear has become one of the fastest-growing apparel categories globally, including in India, driven by an increasing interest in fitness and shift towards comfortable clothing.” Youth leading the demand Like fast fashion, youth, especially millennials and Generation Y, Z are the flag bearers of the demand for activewear. And they are the best target audience for companies geared up to grow in this product category. Abhay Bahugune, COO, Van Heusen says, “With the growing popularity of sports and home fitness, young consumers are seeking comfortable and functional active/sportswear. Our Flex range is targeted at self-driven, passionate, stylish, tech-savvy, ambitious and assertive young professionals who are focused on health and wellness.” And interestingly, women have a significant share in this category with women-specific products like sports bra, leggings having good demand. And CAGR of 6.4 per cent during the period of 2022-2032 and it is expected to expand from US $ 421 billion in 2022 to US $ 779 billion in 2032. Growth is also enjoyed majorly by the companies that are dedicated to the combination of fashion and innovations. Activewear is connected with an active lifestyle be it working out in the gym, office or public place. People especially millennials have fitness as their top priority but don’t necessarily always see themselves as sports-centric, so activewear is timeless, comfort and design-driven and with functional aspects. Activewear products possess strengths like being water-resistant, 4-way stretch, moisture wicking, air permeability, easy dry, Industry stalwarts are strongly of the observation that people are incorporating wellness routine in their lifestyle which is leading the activewear market to grow which in turn offers numerous opportunities for the entire value chain like apparel manufacturers, textile mills, finishers and retailers. But this segment Dollar Industries’ leggings NG Apparels November 2022 | AO India27

28. COVER STORY Zivame and Clovia, which started as lingerie brands, are now present as leading brands for women’s activewear. Reliance Retail has a majority stake in both brands. Having a specific focus on women’s activewear, BlissClub was founded in 2020 by Minu Margeret and has raised a total funding of US $ 20.25 million so far. Minu Margeret says the company is on track to hit Rs. 100 crore in annual revenue run-rate. The company came up with insanely comfortable activewear after extensive R&D and surveys. There are also brands like Spirit Animal, a premium plus-size activewear brand that focuses on the curvy woman. A year ago, Radhika Shanker, a professional footballer and Aditi Kakkar, a national-level weightlifter and CrossFit athlete launched Ochre Athletica focusing on comfortable activewear that doesn’t cause itching or tear off during or after the workout. It has been also observed that the increasing participation of women and kids in sports activities and the promotion of activewar as casualwear has led to the expansion of the activewear market in India. Association with celebrities  Film celebrities and sportspersons have higher concern for their fitness and in the Indian market, celebrities have a direct connection with the activewear segment. It’s going to be a decade now since actor Hrithik Roshan launched his (co-owned) brand HRX and thereafter, cricketer Virat Kohli came up with Wrogn brand, and in 2016, another actor Shahid Kapoor came up with SKULT. Later Tiger Shroff launched the activewear brand Prowl. The majority of these brands have performed well and are continuously growing. HRX is now a Rs. 500 crore plus brand, similarly, Wrogn is also doing well and Porwal was launched on Flipkart in October 2022. Abhishek Maloo, Senior Director, Flipkart Fashion says, “Over the past two years, we at Flipkart have observed an increase in the demand for activewear. With this segment becoming more mainstream, its share of the closet Activewear, sportswear and performancewear With the common thread of active lifestyle, these segments are used interchangeably but there are differences. Indeed, there is no strong and well-accepted demarcation between these segments like causalwear and formalwear.   Activewear is where fashion meets performance and wearing during exercise. Athleisure sits at the intersection of exercise and leisure.  Brands believe that modern-day professionals seamlessly shift between work and play. Style, creativity, innovation, perfection, comfortable and yet fashionable are significant aspects of this segment.  Clovia believes that extra-fancy activewear is the new athleisure as it offers activewear products that can be styled as athleisurewear.  There is a gradual blurring of lines between work attire and workout attire due to global factors like celebrity collaborations with D2C and designer activewear brands. In fact, this is with many product categories.  To differentiate, sportswear is designed specifically for sports purposes, while activewear is designed to transition from exercisewear to casualwear. Certain functions like comfort, specific fabric weight and sport-specific (Swimming, Cycling etc.) requirements are significant factors differentiating both categories. Prasanta Sarkar, an apparel expert believes that activewear is casual, comfortable clothing suitable for sports or exercise whereas athleisure is casual, comfortable clothing designed to be suitable both for exercise and everyday wear. Athleisure clothes are perfect for travelling and walking.  Plus size activewear by All In Motion (Target) 28 AO India | November 2022

29. COVER STORY as a fashion essential has increased tremendously. We believe PROWL will effectively cater to the increasing need for fashionable and comfortable clothing.” On the other hand, along with a focus on innovations and creativity, various brands are associated with celebrities for their activewear products. Clovia has associated with actress Payal Rajput, Performax of Reliance has signed cricket star and India’s top bowler, Jasprit Bumrah as its brand ambassador. Material is the core  All brands are on their toes for innovation in activewear and the thrust is on raw material. Target has highlighted that the majority of ‘All In Motion’ activewear incorporates sustainably sourced materials, primarily including recycled polyester and sustainably sourced cotton. Van Heusen also has an innovative ‘reflect technology’ with reflective elements that look normal during the day but glow in the dark. Founded by Sanjana Masand, Seeq, majorly uses a blend of nylon and spandex (78:28 or 88:12), recycled polyester and spandex etc., that are built with quick- drying yarns, provide compression and allow a four-way stretch with high recovery. Heat-bonded seams and ventilation design detail are also strengths of the brand’s products. Bliss Club’s leggings have features like deep pockets, true ankle length and foldable waistbands. common problem of odour in products that are sweat resultant, SuperVent to add more breathability to the bottoms and thereby solve the problem of fabric sticking to the skin during intense workouts, Centurion has been designed to solve the problem of weight in running T-shirts,” says Ujjawal Asthana, Co- Founder, Zymrat. Overseas brands have strength of offering a complete segment Activewear includes footwear, apparel and other few sports accessories (caps) too. The strong presence of international brands like Puma, adidas, Nike, Decathlon etc., across all categories is strongly in its favour. Puma India’s revenue was Rs. 2,044 crore for FY ’21 ended December. At the same time, its massive experience stores and engagements at stores attract customers more. Just last month PUMA launched its first experiential store in Mumbai which is the largest store in West India. The brand, in the last one year, has launched two other experiential stores in Gurugram and in Bengaluru. Having highest turnover among its peers, Puma has a total of 490 stores in India. While few of the Indian brands have the edge of offering similar apparel products to these brands but at affordable prices. The strong presence of Indian brands in Leading brands Global: Nike, Puma, ASICS, FILA Decathlon, Columbia Sportswear, Lululemon, Sweaty Betty, Alo Yoga India: HRX, Alcis, BlissClub, Tego, Myriad Activewear, c9, Silvertraq, Ochre Athletica, Kica, SeeqActive  Budding start-ups DaMENSCH, Zymrat (performance wear brand) have also created a strong presence in the market with their innovative products for men. “At Zymrat, we believe that technology elevates performance. And by combining engineered fabrics with industry-first tech, we’ve managed to launch world-beating products. Our innovation is structured and methodical, solving problems through incremental benefits and tailored for the Indian audience. All innovations at Zymrat are led by a solution to a problem. We made SuperSilva T-shirt to solve the Overseas brands’ massive experience stores and engagements at stores attract customers more November 2022 | AO India29

30. COVER STORY activewear market to go double in the next 5 years.” Overcrowded, not for quality products  As per industry estimates, there are more than 1000 brands across India which are into activewear and with a growing focus on the same, it will not be wrong to say that this number is growing, so this space is now overcrowded. Although new brands and players at different levels are coming in this segment, but the majority of them are offering regular products which lack innovation especially functional aspects. Hence, these kinds of products have regular demand unlike the high demand for proper activewear. So this segment appears to be overcrowded. Mojostar, a Mumbai-based company, intending to co-create authentic, high- impact indigenous brands in lifestyle space, has launched Prowl brand. Abhishek Verma, CEO of the company believes, “There is a gap in the activewear market for products that are meant for hyperactive young Indians. Traditional activewear brands have over-specified the products, whereas young consumers want simplified functional products that offer great style. Products that help you look amazing, are suited for multi-functional movement and are easy to maintain, are the needs of this market.” Along with quality and innovation, changing dynamics of the market and economy are important aspects ensuring the long-term demand for activewear. “India is a manufacturing economy, slowly shifting towards a consumer economy which means the market is going to expand further and with more and more people having higher incomes and international exposure, I believe that the market is ‘not’ overcrowded with ‘quality’ products. There is going to be a huge demand for homegrown brands now with a focus on quality and innovations,” says Arpit. Due to versatility and flexibility that activewear offers, it is here to stay but the market will be mainly for innovators only. Arpit Aryan Gupta Sunil Jhunjhunwala smaller cities is also supportive towards the growth of activewear. Manufacturers in this segment that have their own labels have also got the advantage of their distributors’ reach in Tier-3 and Tier-4 cities or villages. E-commerce is also beneficial to the industry as a whole. Manufacturers enjoying growth The majority of manufacturers in this segment are enthusiastic about rapid and steady growth. Few of them are sure about 15-20 per cent growth at least, while there are companies that are geared up to double their business in the next 3 to 4 years. Focus on innovation, quality and quick turnaround are major factors making them different from others. Tirupur-based Techno Sports India, one of the most respected manufacturers in this segment, has integrated fashion and technology to drive innovations in final products. With a current revenue of Rs. 200 crore, it aims for five times growth in the next 3 years. Sunil Jhunjhunwala, Co-Founder & CEO, Techno Sport, an ex-Microsoft engineer also has plans to start a fabric unit as his thrust has been innovation in fabrics. “We have been collecting data on fabrics and fibres for 8 years in order to develop better garments. We have observed that spandex is not good for activewear because it decreases air permeability and increases compression, so we ventured into using polyester instead. We have also produced mesh clothes with high air permeability. These kinds of various elements are taken care of in product manufacturing ensuring our growth,” says Sunil. The company spends 2 per cent of its annual revenue on R&D, in close collaboration with Wool Research Association (WRA), Thane. He further adds that brands like Techno Sports, achieved good growth as they offered the greatest functional clothing that gave a transforming experience while keeping customer psychology in mind. At the same time, the price range is also affordable, unlike the globally well- known brands that are unaffordable for the masses. “Techno Sport is a firm believer in the fact that Indian consumers do not give much attention to tags or information; they want a garment that meets their needs within their limited budget,” avers Sunil. Activewear is all about knit base, so companies from knitting hubs like Tirupur, Ludhiana are witnessing high growth in this segment. Arpit Aryan Gupta, Director, Marketing, NG Apparels, a leading manufacturer of activewear in Ludhiana says, “I have seen almost a 400 per cent jump in India’s activewear market as more and more homegrown brands have now started focusing on quality rather than quantity and even consumers these days are willing to pay the extra buck for an international standard homegrown product. I can expect the Indian 30 AO India | November 2022

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32. BUYING & SOURCING DECODING B2B FASHION MARKETPLACES AS THE CONCEPT EXPANDS IN INDIA As per Statista, the global B2B e-commerce transactions totalled US $ 12.2 trillion in 2019, and it may have seen around 25 per cent growth in last two years! One of the most prominent trends in B2B e-commerce is the rise of the B2B Marketplace. By now, the fashion industry may have a fair idea about what a B2B Marketplace is all about! The impact of this online marketplace model cannot be understated, as it has redefined the business relationship between B2B buyers and sellers and acts as a networking point. The concept is seeing strong adoption level in the global fashion businesses and India is not behind too! More B2B Marketplaces are marking their presence in the Indian industry and are trying to revamp the ruptured conventional fashion supply chains by taking almost all laid-down processes on to the digital platform. The advantage being, unlike before, suppliers and buyers need not invest time and resources to search each other and worry about their order status as well as financial transactions. The fact of the matter is that a large part of the traditional supply chain in textile and apparel industry faced a significant setback during Covid-19 and stakeholders such as large manufacturers, SMEs, distributers as well as retailers underwent severe efficiency loss in the key procurement processes, especially where sourcing decisions were taken in an unorganised Dr. Stephen Patton Director of Sourcing (South Asia), Liverpool Mexico Anuj George Head of SaaS, Zilingo environment that lacked both credibility and accountability! Why to go for a B2B Marketplace? Traditional B2B sales in the fashion industry have the following complexities that differentiate them from the B2C model. All these factors are taken into consideration by the company building and managing a B2B Marketplace: These disruptions pushed forth for the evolution of B2B Marketplaces that emerged strongly to offer B2B buying and sourcing through online platforms at reasonable prices and shorter delivery times. So, how do these platforms work? These Marketplaces have members from various segments on buying and vendor’s sides who can place orders and cater to these orders. To get associated with Marketplaces, there are business models like subscription, listing fees and commission, and the companies can choose what works best for them. l Long purchase cycle l Price can vary depending on product changes and the quantity of items l Bulk sales usually; samples needed l Different payment types and international payment issues l Logistics and distribution issues l Document and bureaucratic issues 32 AO India | November 2022

33. BUYING & SOURCING B2B Marketplaces are creating better online supply chains within the industry and pondering upon the existing gaps between buyers and sellers. “The fashion brands have adopted technology a little better because end- consumers are evolving. They are dealing with millennials and Gen-Z crowd and these consumers have seen some fashion statements on social media. Therefore, brands are obviously adopting things faster than factories and manufacturers are still trying to cope with the rapidly evolving trends. The reason being – communication gap between brands and vendors. And this is what a B2B Marketplace tries to solve. In this effort, every MP tries to develop a kind of supply chain that works well for both the parties,” commented Anuj George, Head of SaaS, Zilingo. Following are the two examples of how B2B Marketplaces are finding solutions for prolonged issues of the industry and developing their partners through their journey: l ReshaMandi has tied up with farmers and has given them an IoT device. l Zilingo has partnered with factories to make them cost-effective through its tech-enabled tools. For a fashion brand that has its own manufacturing, there is a valid argument B2B Marketplace – 6 critical functions 1. Multi-vendor capabilities: A key function of a good B2B Marketplace solution is that it allows you to control your company page and information. You should have access to manage your profile, content information, contact details, pricing pages and your team’s role management. 2. Self-service functions: It’s often the case that individuals prefer to place orders themselves rather than having to interact with customer service representatives. Therefore, a solid B2B e-commerce marketplace has features that enable this self-service model if companies choose to do so. B2B Marketplaces need to be highly responsive and intuitive to create an enjoyable user experience. For example, when buyers seek out solutions for their business, they often have to ask for quotes, submit orders, or track shipments – the B2B Marketplace you choose should support these functions. 3. Information security functions: Just like with any digital platform, data and information security and confidentiality are essential for organisations to feel secure and comfortable using the platform. Ensure that the B2B Marketplace you choose places emphasis on protecting your private information so that you don’t need to worry about data breaches. 4. Easy-to-use search navigation: A key aspect to a B2B Marketplace is the ability to filter and search for specific vendors and businesses. The right marketplace platform has easy-to-use search functions that enable you to filter sellers by brand, price range, and product availability quickly and accurately. 5. Fast, flexible workflows: Flexibility and speed need to be the cornerstone of your B2B Marketplace. We’ve all seen how quickly markets and industries can change, and your e-commerce functions need to be able to adapt alongside them. Buyers and sellers need to be able to rely on a flexible and customisable platform that allows them to personalise onboarding strategies, change order submission and processing practices, and replenish supplies when necessary, “B2B marketplaces can perhaps solve fashion’s one of the biggest issues - high rate of online returns! Returns of apparel items on e-commerce platforms is as high as 33% which is a sheer wastage of time, money and efforts” - Nimish Dave 6. Integration options: The best technologies can work alongside your existing apps and tools. Make sure that you find a B2B e-commerce marketplace with functions that seamlessly collaborate with any other software solutions your organisation uses. This leads to a more streamlined process and a better experience for both buyers and sellers. Courtesy: Tradeshift November 2022 | AO India33

34. BUYING & SOURCING Akhil Duggar Jain Executive Director, MADAME Vikram Singh Sr. VP (Global Sourcing), DBS Lifestyle Nimish Dave Founder, The Idea Smith they have on this entire scenario. According to Akhil Duggar Jain, Executive Director of MADAME – a renowned home-grown fashion brand that also has Jain Amar Clothing Pvt. Ltd., by its side as parent company, the go-to strategy for a brand should be how to create better and agile supply chain and see how a B2B Marketplace assists in that. “Around 70 per cent of the products that we sell through our brand is being drive the growth of manufacturing factories by placing orders there. Buyers and factories, thereby, need to be aware of each other and a Marketplace needs to be seen from that perspective so that the experience on a digital B2B platform can be enhanced for buyers in terms of ease of finding factories, ease of order placement and execution etc. However, the key question here remains – what is the working experience of a buyer from a Marketplace? What features do they believe are of more value and what more do they expect? produced from our factory. However, as we are continuing to grow, there seems to be an obvious need for a third-party B2B supply chain which is becoming significant need for us,” mentioned Akhil. Another important aspect while discussing the functioning and offerings of a B2B Marketplace is – how does a company create demand for products/ services on Marketplace before there is enough supply and vice-versa? Dr. Stephen Patton, Director of Sourcing (South Asia), Liverpool Mexico has his say on this. He elaborated, “Innovation has outpaced adoption. By the time companies are ready to adopt a concept, innovation reaches to next level! A factory can ask to explore what the buyers are looking for and stop selling that they themselves want to manufacture but start producing what people (end-consumers) are asking. It takes a little time to adopt. Modifying a supply chain takes nine to ten months, while changing a product line/collection takes two to three weeks.” Key expectation of a buyer from a B2B Marketplace Buyers, as they say, are the ones that Stephen asserted, “In our case, which is Liverpool Retail Group, customers expect a type of product with certain quality level. They do not go into details if it is direct sourcing or third-party sourcing. It’s a series of assumptions they make that are based on the historical contacts of what the brand represents to them. We have to ensure that whatever we sell, should be aligned to the company’s values. If it is not aligned, it’s our name that takes the hit! In order to manage these expectations, brands need to align themselves accordingly with suppliers if both are associated on a Marketplace, monitor quality and lead time closely. That’s a simple but foremost expectation.” “Online marketplace poses great opportunities to fashion industry with around US $ 30 billion worth of market which is poised to grow to US $ 300 billion in next 10 years. The alignment of companies that are building B2B marketplaces is important with this massive value.” - Vikram Singh 34 AO India | November 2022

35. MANUFACTURING EASTMAN EXPORTS GLOBAL CLOTHING ON GROWTH PATH, OPENING OFFICES OVERSEAS men’s, women’s and kidswear, Eastman has vertically integrated operations and its own domestic brand ‘Hue Trap’ is being synergised in terms of technical know-how, infrastructure and design inputs. ‘Eastman Brands’ vertical of the company, a unique concept to support emerging brands and start-ups, is also strongly marking its presence in the domestic market. “We are not missing on any front, be it manufacturing, marketing, export or domestic or product category. Though we are a fashion product company catering to top brands and retailers, 3-4 per cent of our total business is coming from underwear exports,” S.Prakash says. Though many companies of Tirupur, Coimbatore have their manufacturing units in overseas as well as in other Indian states, Eastman strongly believes that there is a lot of potential still to be tapped in India itself – many job opportunities can be created as and when one can add new facilities. “Land and labour is an integral part of our industry and yes there are few exporters who have moved to other states, but as far as Eastman is concerned, we believe that land and labour are available in our state, we have to do a thorough study on that region and erect the facility accordingly,” confirms S.Prakash. The company is also strong on the sustainability and CSR front as it has taken many steps for its staff as well as society covering skill development, education and scholarships for employees and their children. “We have a dedicated manufacturing unit operated by only women and almost 2000 women are part of this unit. It is rare in the Indian apparel industry,” Prakash says proudly. Founded by N. Chandaran, Eastman Exports is now a 4-decades-old group and it has many feathers in its cap like the company has its first dyeing plant in the region to achieve Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD). Positive about the overall market conditions, S.Prakash, Whole Time Director of the company told Apparel Online (AO), “Our US office is mainly a subsidiary office working like a marketing office. The office also has an American designer and one representative from India. We feel that being close to the US, we can convert a lot of customers.” He further added that despite ups and downs in the market, India has a lot of business opportunities in exports, especially looking at the opportunities that are still growing like the Government’s strong efforts on FTA. This is why the company will open offices in the Middle East and UK. Mainly offering fashion products in Despite tough challenges that apparel exporters are facing, few of the companies are continuously growing and one such company is Tirupur-based Eastman Exports Global Clothing. The company recently opened its office in the US and it is also in the process to have offices in the Middle East and UK. The knitted garment giant is also expanding its manufacturing capacity. The company, completing 40 years, works with more than 30 top brands and retailers like Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Board Riders Group, Decathlon, Balmain and Harley Davidson etc., and it has a turnover of more than US $ 250 million. In the long run, the company also has a plan to launch its Initial Public Offering (IPO). S.Prakash, Whole Time Director, Eastman Exports Global Clothing November 2022 | AO India35

36. MANUFACTURING Tailor and Circus: Not in the business of making underwear but in the business of making people love themselves KOLKATA AND TIRUPUR ENSURING THEIR GROWTH IN INNERWEAR WITH DIFFERENT FOCUS ALTOGETHER Kolkata’s giant companies and mass brands Dollar, Lux, Rupa etc., are continuously adding new product categories in the knitted segment, while Tirupur is focusing on innovative raw material, newer prints, design- oriented innerwear. Especially, Tirupur is witnessing new players in innerwear manufacturing like Faso, Carnation Creations, Cruso, Tailor and Circus and more. Innerwear market in India has been sustainably growing for years, the reason being the unorganised sector moving towards being organised to a great extent. The focus of Indian consumers is rapidly shifting towards buying right, and inclination towards healthy lifestyle is also contributing to the growth of innerwear segment. Millennials and GenZ consider fashion underwear a status symbol today as they tend to change their innerwear every 6 months on an average, as per various reports. Nearly all the leading brands of Kolkata have facilities in Tirupur also but the product focus of these brands is mainly basic garments in these units.  As far as Kolkata’s companies (mass brands) are concerned, they are mainly known for underwear and have natural growth in the same. Over the years, they started covering a wide range of knitted garments which is continuing two established hubs of innerwear manufacturing – are on the growth track but in different ways. Mainly known for men’s innerwear, Taking advantage of these demand drivers, Kolkata and Tirupur – the 36 AO India | November 2022

37. MANUFACTURING market. We are sure that it will help us capture a reasonable share of the market in the coming years,” says Vinod Gupta, MD of the company. Another underwear giant Lux Industries Ltd., is witnessing growth in the underwear segment as it is hopeful of making Lux Cozi a Rs. 1,000 crore brand in the next three years. The company clocked a turnover of Rs. 2,300 crore in 2021-22 and is expecting around 12 per cent growth and may touch Rs. 2,600 crore in the current financial. At the same time, it also has plans to enter the kids’ segment in a big way. Saket Todi, ED of the company believes that there is no national brand catering to the kids’ innerwear market and so there is a huge potential to grow the segment. Last year, the company had crossed US $ 1 billion market capitalisation in the fast-growing innerwear market. Tirupur’s companies go for innovative material and designs Like Kolkata, Tirupur also used to do a lot of basic innerwear but in recent years it has evolved. Along with natural reasons like overall growing demand and cluster-specific benefits, the credit also goes to the companies’ focus on innovative designs and materials. Relatively new players in this segment have done remarkable progress! Not only budding manufacturer Carnation Creations, but a dedicated organic cotton-based innerwear brand Faso (by vertically integrated textile company KPR Mills), Tailor and Circus, a start- up having its own manufacturing etc., are seeing tremendous success. Carnation Creations – a manufacturer of premium underwear and home textiles – has expertise in fashion innerwear and is strongly planning to grow in this category. Akhilesh Anand, MD of the 4-year-old company says, “Understanding the customer psychology, we found that underwear is more a fashion garment “Our latest offering in brassiere product range has opened a new gate for the women’s product segment and has received good feedback from the market. We are sure that it will help us capture a reasonable share of the market in the coming years” “Due to complete vertical operations, we can ensure true organic products compared to any other company as we have a strong hold right from ginning to despatch of the final product. It also makes us very cost- competitive and increases trust in customers for our products.” Vinod Gupta MD, Dollar Industries T. Gokulakrishnan VP, Faso even now. The main reason for these companies to add newer product categories is that by doing so, they can earn more with less effort as from manufacturing to retail, they have an entire system in place. And in this exercise of expanding product portfolio, their core strength and major focus on underwear is not impacted any way. A few of such products which are new additions are women’s innerwear, athleisure, loungewear, gymwear, sleepwear, warmers, leggings and vests. Dollar Industries is now also focusing on womenswear like brassiere. “Our latest offering in brassiere product range has opened a new gate for the women’s product segment and has received good feedback from the Kolkata-based undergarment brands mainly cater to masses with simple products November 2022 | AO India37

38. MANUFACTURING different styles of packaging as well, and things are slightly different when it is MBO, EBO, e-commerce for the same brand etc. “We provide design inputs to brands and solve their complexities, be it packaging and delivery management,” says Akhilesh. Faso, a brand launched in 2019, has recently expanded in Western India through a dealer network, and is adding almost one state every month. Its target is to cover India very soon. Further, it has massive plans for direct retailing by opening 100 EBOs. T. Gokulakrishnan, VP, Faso says, “Due to complete vertical operations, we can ensure true organic products compared to any other company as we have a strong hold right from ginning to despatch of the final product. It also makes us very cost-competitive and increases trust in customers for our products.” The company has advanced infrastructure across the value chain and the brand started with the vision to offer pure organic innerwear to Indian consumers. “With the growing market, our focus is to have a strong loyal consumer base across India so that we can have long- term sustained growth,” he adds. Start-ups and D2C brands have “Understanding the customer psychology, we found that underwear is more a fashion garment now and different styles of packaging are there as well, but things are slightly different when it is MBO, EBO, e-commerce for the same brand etc.” “By giving the experience of super-premium brands at affordable prices, we have successfully filled the vacuum in the market. Year-on-year, we have achieved 3x growth, so we have a plan to increase our capacity and the overall team as well.” Akhilesh Anand MD, Carnation Creations Vasanth Sampath Co-founder, Tailor and Circus now and also requires additional infrastructure. So along with focusing on designs, we have added anti-microbial finishes or whatever is required for comfort, at the same time, we have invested in all the state-of-the-art machines required for innerwear technology, so we can offer the best in innerwear.” Working with many top international and national brands in India, Akhilesh also highlights that it is not easy for any mid-sized manufacturer to make the fashion innerwear range due to different styles and large SKUs. The process gets complex owing to fashion elements and changes made by the client. Different channels have Having state-of-the-art manufacturing units, Carnation Creations is making variety of products and it has the vision to become a one-stop solution for brands and retailers Faso is continuously growing in the market as well as increasing its product basket 38 AO India | November 2022

39. MANUFACTURING Enjoying growth in the innerwear segment, Tirupur companies are also expanding their product basket in intimate apparel (for women). Tailor and Circus is also enhancing its thrust on lingerie and its plan is to come up with the launch of unisex underwear, sleepwear and loungewear product categories in comfortable fabric. Faso recently launched women’s innerwear while Carnation Creations, which was already manufacturing a variety of knitted products, is entering into lingerie as it has the vision to become a one-stop solution for brands and retailers.  so we have a plan to increase our capacity and the overall team as well.” The company, having 45 per cent customer retention rate, uses micro- modal and sustainable materials in packaging also. It also follows the concept of body positivity which is not common in India. Newer prints are also its focused area. Matching underwear by Tailor and Circus disrupted the innerwear segment and Bengaluru is a major hub for start-ups. It has also created a growth opportunity for Tirupur as nearly all major start-ups and D2C brands of this hub are sourcing undergarments from Tirupur which is just 320 km away from Bengaluru while Kolkata is almost 1600 km away. “Apart from proximity, Tirupur has strengths of strong design sense, catering to low volume orders and supporting required R&D for start- ups or D2C brands. If a brand or start-up wants to take inspiration or study the market, Tirupur is the market where things can be studied easily,” says Akhilesh. Bengaluru-based Tailor and Circus, a leading D2C and profitable innerwear start-up, started in 2017 with a factory in Tirupur. The brand is also happy with its growth and it is soon expected to get seed funding. It also has plans to launch its EBOs. “Own manufacturing gives us the strength to incorporate every small or big feedback of customers completely and quickly. It also allows us to keep a lean inventory and have better control of quality. Similarly, 95 per cent of the total sales comes from the company’s website, 40 per cent of its sales is organic (without marketing efforts) which makes it more profitable,” he adds. Vasanth Sampath, Co-founder of the brand who also takes care of manufacturing says, “By giving the experience of super-premium brands at affordable prices, we have successfully filled the vacuum in the market. Year- on-year, we have achieved 3x growth, November 2022 | AO India39

40. MANUFACTURING/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Shahi Exports’ Anant Ahuja joins the Board of the BBI Anant Ahuja of Shahi Exports, India’s largest apparel manufacturer, has joined the Board of Directors of the Better Buying Institute (BBI). As the first South Asian supplier to join the BBI Board, Anant’s appointment is a significant step towards the industry-wide transformation of buyer purchasing practices. The move will further strengthen buyer-supplier relationships contributing to the overall well-being of supply chain workers and improved environmental practices. Anant joins fellow Board members Nina Smith, founding Chief Executive of GoodWeave International; Dr. Peter Cheng, Co-founder and Chairman of Hanbo Group; Tom Rausch, Global Lead, Agrostart – BASF and Michael Gilson, CEO and Founder of Cormac Advisors. BBI was set up in 2015 with a mission to enable buyers and suppliers to work together with responsible purchasing practices to achieve shared goals of profitability and social and environmental sustainability. Anant is also the CEO and Co-founder of the Good Business Lab, a not-for-profit labour innovation start-up that conducts research to find common ground between worker well-being and business interests. He was also a part of NITI Aayog’s ‘Champions of Change’ initiative. Anant Ahuja, Head of Organizational Development, Shahi Exports said, “Better Buying has led the way in measuring and raising awareness about the state of purchasing practices by driving transparency, and this is an exciting time to be joining the Board.” He further added that there is growing awareness and acceptance in the industry that purchasing practices have a massive impact on workers’ well-being, environmental sustainability and innovation. Buyers are significantly more open to working with suppliers to understand the pain points and develop win-win partnerships, and suppliers are increasingly aware of the knowledge and influence they hold in driving a sustainable future for the fashion industry. But there’s still a long way to go in re-balancing the power dynamics between buyers and suppliers. The time for the industry to come together and act on purchasing practices is now. Dr. Marsha Dickson, President and Co-founder of the BBI, said, “Anant has a deep understanding of the challenges suppliers face in their business relationships with brands and retailers. He also has a track record of implementing new approaches to address workplace and business opportunities. With this valuable background, Anant will be helping us explore how Better Buying’s work can add even more value to both buyers and suppliers as they collaborate around new practices and ways of working together.” Stitching It Right, a book by Rajat Sikka to help budding entrepreneurs Rajat Sikka, Managing Director and Co-founder of Delhi- based premier apparel export house Saivana Exports, New Delhi, has come up with a book Stitching It Right, the entrepreneurial journey from a car garage to Harvard. how some of these challenges may be seen as obvious but unavoidable. Apart from getting inspired by the real-life stories of Rajat and his company Saivana, the book also helps to put entrepreneurial dreams in perspective, and identify factories that can impact one’s business. One of them is the Indian Angel Network, which is Asia’s largest network of Angel investors keen to invest in early-stage businesses. All the learning and efforts of Rajat to overcome small and big challenges of business reflect beautifully in the book. This book has interesting detailing of his years and lessons from founding the company. He brings on an exploratory journey as reader travels across the dusty back roads of Tughlakabad (Delhi) in the ’90s to the cobbled streets of Paris and even the ivory halls of Harvard. The book is a sincere effort to help recognise the potential pitfalls in what could be an adventure. It is a therapeutic look at the romance of entrepreneurship and looks at how several factors can impact a start-up business, It also gives some thoughtful points to pivot upon and understands The book helps young entrepreneurs to set up their own fashion houses and help them make it big. It talks about possible hurdles he or she might face as they grow their company and also offers tips on how to handle their people. Talking about the motivation behind the book, Rajat has a spirit to help young aspiring fashion designers to sustain in the industry. Apart from successfully running an export house, Rajat is an avid angel investor in numerous start-ups. 40 AO India | November 2022

41. MANUFACTURING/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Draft released for PLI 2.0 for apparel and home textile sector S N I P S The district administration in Dindigul, a leading textile hub in Tamil Nadu, is taking up a feasibility study along with various stakeholders for integrated effluent treatment plant. Union Textile Ministry has released the draft for PLI 2.0 scheme for apparel and home textile sector. The scheme brings around Rs. 4,300 crore of incentives to the ecosystem and may generate Rs. 1 lakh crore worth of new manufacturing. Investment criterion is within many of SME companies’ limits of Rs. 15 crore, Rs. 30 crore and Rs. 45 crore in three different schemes; importantly, all kinds of textile manufacturing companies can apply. can get good mileage with domestic and international buyers due to their visibility. Notably, those companies that take up projects with PLI scheme can also avail State Government incentives. Besides, companies can combine both to improve the incentive component. The incremental sales condition for 5 years can help SMEs to build the much-needed scale and competitiveness. benefit of PLI 2.0. With the expertise and deep knowledge of KPMG, Coimbatore-based Indian Texpreneur Federation (ITF) conducted an interactive session with 50 textile entrepreneurs of the western region (Coimbatore, Tirupur, Erode, Karur Namakkal) to explain the fine details of the scheme with practical working models in various formats. “It’s an opportunity for Tamil Nadu textile sector to get more on value addition. Revenue from both export and domestic are acceptable in this scheme. We strongly believe that Tamil Nadu textile and apparel sector should use this opportunity and invest in PLI 2.0 to build scale and competitiveness,” said Prabhu Dhamodharan, Convenor, ITF. The Uttar Pradesh (UP) Government has approved Uttar Pradesh Textile and Garmenting Policy-2022 in the cabinet meeting. If 20-plus companies are executing projects together as a Group, companies can get benefits in terms of project cost due to joint purchases. Trade bodies are creating awareness about the scheme and motivating companies to come forward and take the This scheme is open for all products including cotton (HS codes 61, 62 and 63), which will create opportunity for companies to choose their preferred products. Companies working with the PLI scheme NIFT Srinagar will introduce two more courses next year and efforts will be to gradually increase the number of courses to 10. New teams for various trade bodies The Communist Party of India workers staged a demonstration at the district collectorate as they were seeking the establishment of a Textile Park in Sattur at the earliest and urged not to set up a dyeing unit in Thamaraikulam. Recently various trade bodies of textile and apparel industry got new office bearers. Major change was in Tirupur Exporters’ Association (TEA), a leading trade body of apparel trade body. KM Subramanian, MD, KM Knitwear and a mechanical engineer has been elected the unopposed President and N. Thirukkumaran of Estee Exports India has been elected unopposed for General Secretary, while Rajkumar Ramasamy of Best Corporation and Elangovan of SNQS Internationals have been elected as VP, R Gopalakrishnan, Royal Classic Mills has been appointed as Treasurer and DK Kumar of Eastern Global Clothing has been elected as Joint Secretary. KM Subramanian said to Apparel Online (AO), “We have a perfect combination of experienced and young entrepreneurs in the new team. There are few well-deserving representatives in the EC who have got such a chance first time, so they are very enthusiastic to work for the industry.” The new team of TEA will work collectively and more aggressively for the growth of Tirupur’s apparel industry. He further added that as a priority, we are working to have a hostel of at least 20,000 workers including men and women. TEA has formed an export promotion committee also, which will make sure that Tirupur can achieve apparel exports of Rs. 30,000 crore. Similarly, Zakir Hussain, Director of Jaipur’s leading apparel export house Cotfab, is the new President of Garment Exporters Association of Rajasthan (GEAR), while Ashish Ahuja of Ultimate Expressions and Lalit Kumar Arora of Jimmy Mode International have been elected VP. Arun Gupta of Kiran Modes will be the new General Secretary. The West Bengal Hosiery Association has elected Vinod Kumar Gupta, MD, Dollar Industries Ltd, as its new President at its AGM. November 2022 | AO India41

42. MANUFACTURING/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Coats Digital’s GSDCost helps Vietnamese manufacturer increase efficiency by 10%; on target to reduce manufacturing production time by 50% Coats Digital is delighted to announce that following the implementation of its GSDCost, top Vietnamese leisure and sportswear manufacturer, Son Ha Garment Joint Stock Company, (JSC) is on its way to enhance its efficiency improvement goal by more 50 per cent. accurately recorded SMVs through helpful, standard motion digitised codes so that manufacturers can optimise the costing process, enhance manufacturing efficiencies, introduce achievable performance targets and ultimately increase sales to optimise profitability. It is a method analysis and pre-determined timing solution that is frequently used by manufacturers throughout the world. With the help of this new tool, brands and manufacturers may easily determine the fair living wage allowed for a specific garment in any factory worldwide as well. Notably, Coats Digital’s updated Globalised Fair Wage Tool incorporates the International Standard Time for each individual style together with the nation’s fair living wage, contractual hours and specialised production efficiency. With the usage of GSDCost, the Vietnamese manufacturer Son Ha Garment JSC has enhanced productivity, order and cost planning visibility, decreased overtime costs, upgraded on-time delivery and fair wage negotiation in costing proposals. It has been progressively integrated throughout the organisation. The installation across the unit also saved hundreds of work hours. As data and cost planning reports were only based on previously manually obtained data, Son Ha Garment JSC regularly battled with productivity because it was challenging for team members to find the information they needed. ‘GSDCost’, a well-known method-time cost solution for garment costing and sustainable manufacturing, initially helped improve the core style Standard- Minute-Values (SMV) of the company by 10 per cent. The much-talked about GSDCost offers Additionally, the lack of accurate costing information made it impossible to reach a definite agreement with customers, which wasted crucial time. Patrick Chau, Customer Success Manager at Coats Digital, said, “We are content that Son Ha Garment JSC has achieved such remarkable efficiency results following its deployment of GSDCost. The only way that fashion manufacturers can stay ahead of the game is to quickly digitise their processes, as the industry is going to be more competitive with constant pressure to lower costs and small orders. Standardising SMV calculations is a sure- fire way to boost production efficiency, bring fact-based, stable cost negotiations, lower overtime costs and cut down on material waste, all the while motivating staff with attainable performance targets and quickly responding to orders with more complex requirements.” 42 AO India | November 2022

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44. SUSTAINABILITY Shahi Exports has done a remarkable job for menstrual hygiene management EFFORTS TOWARDS WOMEN WORKERS’ SAFE PERIOD CYCLE IS A WIN-WIN FOR ALL and come up with noble initiatives to support women. And they have achieved good results too. These factories have supported women with proper guidance and regular availability of sanitary pads (free/ or on subsidised rates), and period leave but thousands of factories are there which are still missing on this front. Around 6 million women operators are working in the Indian apparel manufacturing industry and 60 to 70 per cent of them belong to the age group of 18+ to 40. Women operators are more disciplined, are known for better productivity and also have less turnover rate but at the same time every month, they struggle for 3-4 days due to their menstrual cycle and it impacts them physically as well as mentally. In the research conducted by the University College of London, menstrual cramps have been described as ‘almost as bad as having a heart attack’. Looking at the seriousness of the issue, a few of the apparel factories have taken note of this Providing sanitary products is essential but not a complete solution. Women workers’ approach also needs to change as the majority of women feel that menstrual blood is dirty or impure. Such and other myths and taboos need to change as Humjoli Foundation has a perfect motto Periods – Sharm Nahi, Shamta Hai (Periods are not a matter of shame but are about potential) Looking at the entire scenario and diversity, the top priority should be to make menstruation a normal subject, so that anyone can talk about it from the board room to the shopfloor openly without any fear and hesitation. Menstruation should be accepted as a routine fact of life, with easy access to period products and necessary 44 AO India | November 2022

45. SUSTAINABILITY facilities. The issue becomes significant as women’s dignity, health and in many cases livelihood is closely tied to their struggle every month with menstruation. Life changing efforts  It will not be wrong to say that Shahi Exports has done a remarkable job in this direction. The company is working in this regard for more than four years and has conducted many surveys, discussions and analysis. Its project ‘Pravah’ focuses on menstrual health and hygiene training and awareness and easy access to low-cost, high- quality sanitary products for its women employees. There are biometric-enabled vending machines in women’s toilets, stocked with highly subsidised sanitary napkins. The safe disposal mechanism has also increased the hygiene level in the toilets. The company also promotes access and acceptance of menstrual cups as safe sanitary products. These and other such efforts not only help women during their menstrual cycle but also change their mindset that menstrual blood is dirty or impure. Another leading factory of Delhi-NCR, Paramount Products is offering free pads for the last two years and around 1800 women workers of the companies are benefiting from this. Women are now very much using these pads and even guiding their daughters and other women in the family about proper hygiene. The company also has in-house trained staff for creating awareness and guiding women in this regard. Not only leading exporters, a few of medium-level companies are also coming up with interesting initiatives in this direction. One year ago Nandani Creation Limited (JaipurKurti.com), a Jaipur-based leading domestic player, announced a period leave policy for its women employees. As per this policy, period leave of one day (over and above the regular leaves and holidays) for each month is available to the women workforce. The company took this step as it is moving towards building a culture of acknowledgement for women’s organic necessities. Gain to the companies  Along with the women workers, factories which put efforts for menstrual hygiene also get benefits as in the baseline survey of the Shahi Exports, it was observed that 47 per cent of women strongly agreed that the provision of cheap pads makes them think that the company cares about the workers’ health and well-being; this percentage shot up to 71 per cent in the endline. The company also asked the respondents if providing high-quality and low-cost pads makes them want to work for more years in this company. The percentage of respondents who strongly agreed with the statement went up from 32 per cent in the baseline to 61 per cent in the end- line survey. Rupali Agarwal, Head-CSR, Paramount Products informed, “There is a significant reduction in women absenteeism and their overall health and confidence have increased a lot. Women are now more loyal and feel bonding with the company.” She further added that the company manages money for pads from workers’ welfare fund and doesn’t see it as an added cost. Anuj Mundhra, CMD, Nandani Creation Limited shared his experience, “I was criticised by a few of the fellow apparel manufacturers when I started this initiative but I was firm to continue with this and in one year, we have seen that motivation of the young female workers has increased and they are very happy with this policy.” He also said 50% of women aged 15-24 years use clothes during periods, claims National Family Health Survey Vending machines in women’s toilet at Shahi Exports November 2022 | AO India45

46. SUSTAINABILITY that women are so enthusiastic about this scheme that they manage their work effectively so that their period leave doesn’t impact the factory’s output. Benchmark in India  Though the labour-oriented, apparel manufacturing industry cannot be compared with any other industry, but there are a few examples that can be said to be the benchmark. Still, there are a few good examples as food delivery service Zomato which has introduced up to ten days of ‘period leaves’ in a year for all women employees to build a more inclusive work culture. Swiggy also has ‘No Questions Asked’ Period Time-off for women delivery partners and a monthly two-day time off policy during periods for them (with a minimum earnings guarantee too). There are also a few more companies in various industries/sectors having similar policies. What more can be done  In Delhi-NCR or any other apparel manufacturing hub in Tirupur and nearby other hubs also, only few factories are putting in efforts for menstrual hygiene as factory owners don’t have an interest and thrust on this. “This issue is not in the factories owners’ priority list. At our own level, we do have some initiatives focusing on awareness and subsidised sanity pad distribution but the budget constraint is there,” said A. Aloysius, Founder, Social Awareness and Voluntary Education (SAVE) NGO of Tirupur. He further added that factories should also have proper focus on the disposal of used pads as a small chunk of women workers who are managing pads on their own, don’t have any options in factories to dispose of the pads. And it is also harmful for them. Few State Governments are distributing free sanitary napkins in schools. Similar schemes can be there for garment factory workers and the cost can be borne by Government as well as factories. Efforts are also required at the policy level as the Menstruation Benefits Bill was introduced in 2017 in the Indian parliament but so far there is no proposal to grant menstrual leaves and it is not passed yet. Interestingly Bihar has had menstrual leave for women employees since 1992. Under the bill, women employed by both public and private establishments registered with the Central and State Governments, are entitled to two days of menstrual leave every month, which would amount to 24 days of leave annually. Few of the buyers are having some support of the factories for this like VF Corp., has developed Menstrual Hygiene Management modules as part of the HER Project in Chennai and Bengaluru. It is also improving access to feminine hygiene products NGOs and platforms that can support  l Swasti, The Health Catalyst l Breakthrough l Beyond Blood l Goonj l Humjoli Foundation l Myna Mahila Foundation l Project Baala l Breaking The Silence l Aara Health to create an enabling environment for women workers. The educational pilot project was launched in 2018 and was expanded in FY 2020. It is also improving access to feminine hygiene products to create an enabling environment for women workers. To start with  If a particular factory doesn’t have resources to support women workers with period products, it can start with awareness for imparting proper information and guidance regarding menstrual hygiene management. NGOs like Sachhi Saheli have included the initiative of Menstrual Café. Soumya Dabriwal, Founder of Delhi- based Project Baala, another leading organisation has exposure of working in this direction with companies from few industries. She asserted, “We have done some work with Shahi Exports and if any other garment manufacturing companies come forward, we will definitely work with them.” Factories can arrange the show of Padman movie, (based on the true story of a social entrepreneur who creates a low-cost pad-making machine). There are video messages from popular bollywood actresses encouraging women to break the silence on menstruation, and these videos can be shared with women on Whatsapp. Birla Cellulose, a part of Aditya Birla Group, has recently teamed up with Bengaluru-based GoNaturato to produce cost- effective and environment- friendly sanitary pads using the viscose-based Purocel EcoDry fibre as a top-sheet in their GoNatura sanitary pads. Birla Cellulose’ target is to overcome the environmental consequences endured due to the global consumption of plastic-based single-use sanitary pads and curb the ecological damage through plastic-free natural sanitary pads available at an affordable price. Its team has been working tirelessly with GoNatura to successfully integrate through multiple product trials in an effort to ensure smooth integration of their sanitary pads. 46 AO India | November 2022

47. SUSTAINABILITY/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com Louis Dreyfus Company Project Jagruthi to support farmers on Sustainable Cotton Farming S N I P S M&S announces to ‘responsibly exit’ from Myanmar amidst human right violations the workshops, specific methods were demonstrated alongside technical advice from experts to help minimise yield losses due to pest outbreaks, thereby increasing production and income. Field demonstrations of measures such as pheromone traps were also conducted. Sumeet Mittal, LDC’s Head of Cotton for India, said, “LDC is committed to working toward a safe and sustainable future, helping to feed and clothe a growing global population sustainably. Project Jagruthi is a perfect example of what we can do in this regard, and we look forward to ramping up this and other projects to empower India’s smallholder farmers for greater resilience and a more sustainable future.” Decathlon, in October, undertook a communication initiative in Belgium in which the retailer has renamed itself ‘Nolhtaced’ (‘Decathlon’ in reverse) in order to raise the public’s awareness about the possibility of retailing in the ‘opposite direction’ and around the world – to improve their livelihoods for the long term. In a statement, the company informed that as part of the initiative, LDC conducted a series of educational workshops to support cotton farmers in mitigating threats such as pink bollworm and white fly infestations that are affecting cotton crops in India. During Louis Dreyfus Company (LDC), a French merchant firm that is involved in agriculture, food processing, international shipping and finance launched ‘Project Jagruthi’ in India, to train and support local cotton farmers in adopting more sustainable farming practices, as part of its commitment to empowering smallholder farming communities – in India SIDT and TAS to launch courses on Sustainability & ESG individuals, professionals and organisations in sustainability by building the capacity of individuals and organisations, creating and enabling awareness of sustainability, and enhancing sustainability communication and reporting. This collaboration aims to educate and train students and professionals to meet the needs of the industry and help inspire and empower the next generation of designers on sustainable fashion designs. The training programmes will include online and offline courses on the basics of sustainability, fashion sustainability, ESG, circularity, sustainable design, CSR and sustainability reporting for the fashion and textile industry. Dr. Krishnendu Datta, Dean, SIDT, said, “Taking action on climate change and sustainability is an imperative, and we all have a role to play. As knowledge providers, our goal is to contribute to the growth of the industry by empowering leaders, professionals and students with the skills they need to navigate the demand for sustainability. Our training programmes will expand sustainability and climate literacy. In collaboration with The Academy for Sustainability, we will offer a robust curriculum of sustainability training & ESG courses.” Mumbai-based prestigious institute Sasmira’s Institute of Design & Textiles (SIDT) and The Academy for Sustainability (TAS) have announced a collaboration to launch various courses on Sustainability & ESG for the fashion and textile sector. SIDT is one of the leading institutes for fashion, textiles and merchandising studies in Mumbai. SIDT’s Centre for Sustainable Studies (SCSS) was established in 2022 to educate and train students and professionals to meet the needs of the industry and help inspire and empower the next generation of designers on sustainable fashion designs. TAS was established to empower November 2022 | AO India47

48. SUSTAINABILITY/ /NEWS www.apparelresources.com BHRRC highlights worsening human rights among garment workers S N I P S Sustainable Chemistry for the Textile Industry (SCTI) appoints Dr. Isabella Tonaco as Executive Director Allegations of human rights violations against garment workers at the suppliers of several major international fashion retailers have been brought to light in a new report by the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC). Accusations were levelled against 13 factories that supply or have supplied to at least 15 international fashion brands, according to the report, including the likes of adidas, Bestseller, C&A, H&M, Hugo Boss, J. Crew, Mango, Next, Primark and Under Armour. activists in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka for the research, which included interviews with 24 trade union members. reported the situation for freedom of association and collective bargaining had ‘got worse’ since the pandemic. 30 per cent of respondents reported an increase in gender- based violence. BHRRC advocated a statutory framework for human rights and urged governments, companies and suppliers to take measures to ensure freedom of association. It concluded: “Brands and suppliers are encouraged to enter good-faith dialogue with workers and their representatives through collective bargaining and binding agreements between key stakeholders.” Respondents claimed that they had continued to experience discrimination, assault, threats, false accusations and arrests; many of the factories in question appeared to be utilising Covid-19 as a means for these alleged attempts to suppress any organised efforts. Spanish retailer Mango is collaborating with cancer research organisation FERO Foundation for a solidarity collection. They’ve collaborated before, and the funds from this campaign will go towards breast cancer research. Additionally, there has been an increase in issues such as intimidation and harassment of trade union members. Around 61 per cent of respondents The organisation polled 124 union members and labour Ralph Lauren is now member of The US Cotton Trust Protocol Goals (SDGs), recognised by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040 and Cotton Up initiatives. Communications Officer at Ralph Lauren said, “Cotton makes up more than three- quarters of our total material use, and we are committed to ensuring this critical fibre is fully sustainably-sourced in our portfolio by 2025. Our ambition requires collaboration and partnership with organisations like Trust Protocol as we work together to make progress on sustainable cotton goals – within our business and the wider industry.” “We are proud to welcome Ralph Lauren as a new member and aid in their efforts to advance better sustainability practices within the industry,” said Dr. Gary Adams, President of the US Cotton Trust Protocol. The Trust Protocol drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability areas—land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency. It integrates these sustainability metrics from Field to Market’s Fieldprint® Platform, enabling enrolled growers to measure the environmental impacts of their operation and identify opportunities for continuous improvement. Katie Ioanilli, Chief Global Impact & Ralph Lauren Corporation, an iconic global luxury brand, is now member of The US Cotton Trust Protocol (‘Trust Protocol’). This membership will support Ralph Lauren in its efforts to scale sustainable practices in US cotton production. Aligned with timeless by design, Ralph Lauren is working to improve soil health through programmes that support regenerative agriculture practices and rigorous impact measurement, believing that these efforts are fundamental to building a resilient cotton industry in the US and globally. Launched in 2020, the US Cotton Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development 48 AO India | November 2022

49. TRENDS IN FOCUS/ /RUNWAYS THE MEGATREND ROUND-UP FROM THE FASHION CAPITALS OF THE WORLD S/S ’23 EDITION The fashion weeks this season were filled with a sort of joyous excitement owing much to the fact that this season marked a complete return to in-person physical shows after the previous two years spent assuming a hybrid model owing to the pandemic. Saint Laurent For Spring/Summer 2023, avante-garde looks and fashion-forward accessories teamed up with thought-provoking themes and inspirations marked the calendar across New York, Milan, Paris and London. Christian Wijnant Vetements ALL There were also several significant style trends. Layered looks reigned prevalent, especially on slip dresses. Many designers showed monochromatic looks and a ‘space age’ techno white look stood out. After last year’s preponderance of mini- skirts and short shorts, ’40s style pencil style skirts and dresses made a refreshing comeback. MATCHED UP This season, several designers presented immaculately tailoring pieces with coordinated separates. At, Vetements, Guram Gvasalia presented a series of tailored looks where everything matched among the more expected streetwear and denim pieces his brand has come to be known for. That included some styles rendered in a checkered pattern and texture reminiscent of Tati shopping bags. Standout looks included a wide-lapeled belted raincoat over a shirt and overlong pants, all in a striking blue and red plaid. Saint Laurent presented an oversized blouse with a neck scarf and overlong pants, all rendered in a bold black and cream polka dot print, whilst Christian Wijnants showed three pieces in acid green parachute silk; an oversized blouse and knee length shorts under a trench coat. The accessory categories, including footwear and handbags, are an important part of any retail assortment, and the runway season pointed towards boots, soft plush handbags, metallic material et al. Read on to discover the top trends set to dominate the season! November 2022 | AO India49

50. TRENDS IN FOCUS/ /RUNWAYS Ami Missoni MSGN Kenzo PREP Prada Max Mara SCHOOL RE-RUN The ‘preppy’ look is back once again for S/S ’23 season - but this time around, it’s hyping up the menswear segment. For men, the trend is being presented with a new twist: less Ivy League, more ‘sport & street’. A wide range of colourways grace the trend - from pale pastels at Rhude, and neons at MSGM to burgundy and black at Dries Van Noten. Key items and accents included cable knit sweaters, bermuda shorts and collegiate lettering. At Kenzo, Nigo used the concept of a ‘passing out ceremony,’ inspired by one of Kenzo Takada’s 1980’s shows which was based on the idea of a school’s sports day. Staying true to their signature, Thom Browne presented an array of looks, including tweed coats, blazers, pants and long pleated skirts. MIDI LENGTHS A ‘grown up’ approach to fashion, courtesy Miuccia Prada and her design partner, Raf Simons, the midi- length silhouette made waves on the runways this season. A mid-calf pencil silhouette was prevalent on the Prada runway, whilst Missoni presented a body- con silhouette in various lengths. At Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, the designer was inspired by two iconic designers of the past, Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and Romeo Gigli. The result was a collection of slender silhouettes, enhancing the body. Look 11 was a mid-length dress in a stretch fabric with a Toile de Jouy print. 50 AO India | November 2022