Crampons

1. Crampons Ben Ingram

2. Overview • Introduction • Crampon Types • Fitting Crampons • Using Crampons • Caveats

3. Introduction • What are crampons? – Metal spike that attach to your feet • What are they good for? – Give traction on ice or steep snow

4. Crampon Types: Number of Points • Instep crampons (about six points on instep) - Improve traction, but not good for mountaineering • 10 point crampons (no front points) – better traction, but still not good for steep climbs • 12 point crampons (front points) – the standard for mountaineering

5. Hinged: More comfortable Tiring to front point Use with any boot Rigid: Less comfortable Less tiring to front point Can only be used with rigid boots Crampon Types: Flexibility

6. Horizontal Front Points: Better in snow and soft ice Less balling Best for general mountaineering Vertical Front Points: Better in hard ice Dangerous balling Crampon Types: Point Orientation

7. Straps: Work with any boot Harder to put on in cold Step-in: Only work with welted boots Easy to put on Crampon Types: Attachment

8. Crampon Types: Summary With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point, strap-on crampons like the black crampons with yellow straps or the “old school” crampons With Sorels, only the “old school” crampons fit

9. Fitting Crampons • Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that fall off cause accidents and slow down the group. • Adjust crampons at home • Adjust length and instep width so that crampon holds boot without straps • Strapping pattern • Test crampon fit • Practice putting on at home, so can put on with gloves or in cold

10. Crampon Use Two approaches: • Get as many points as possible into ground • Front pointing

11. Caveats • They’re sharp and put holes in clothing and packs • Balling causes many accidents • Don’t glissade in crampons!