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Wave Action

Wave Action. Section 13.1. What is a wave?. Wave – movement of energy through a body Wave size depends on: strength of wind length of time wind blows distance over which wind blows. What is a wave?. Wave molecules move in a circular motion

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Wave Action

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  1. Wave Action Section 13.1

  2. What is a wave? • Wave –movement of energy through a body • Wave size depends on: strength of wind length of time wind blows distance over which wind blows

  3. What is a wave? • Wave molecules move in a circular motion • Molecules at the surface move in a bigger circle than those that are deeper • At a certain depth, water is not affected by the wave

  4. What is a wave? Crest – highest point Trough – lowest point Wavelength – distance from crest to crest Wave height – distance from crest to trough

  5. Wavelength Wave height Crest Trough Wave Depth is half the wavelength

  6. How waves change near shore • Breakers – white capped waves that crash onto the shore Friction on the bottom slows the wave down. Wave height increases and wave length decreases.

  7. How waves change near shore • Tsunamis – usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor

  8. How waves affect the shore • Longshore Drift – the movement of sand as water washes up and carries sand along the beach

  9. How waves affect the shore • Rip current - a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening

  10. Waves and beach erosion Groins Barrier Beaches Sand Dunes

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