New Fashion Makers  and  The new kinds of Fashion

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New Fashion Makers and The new kinds of Fashion

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1. New Fashion Makers and The new kinds of Fashion 1920s-1930s

2. Flapper Fashion -?????1926 -???????????????????? ??(????????)? ?????? ????? ?night club?? - ??? flapper fashion style ?the 'garçonne '

3. Flapper Magazine 1922

4. New Fashion Makers ???????????,WW I????????,?? ???????????….. -Paul Poiret (?) -Gabrielle Chanel (?) -Madeline Vionnet(?) -Jean Patou(?) -Norman Hartnall(?)

5. Paul Poiret (?) -Poiret ?????????????? -????????????????????,??????????(couturier)?????????? -1924????,??????????????, 1943 ?????????? -”He set the course of future fashion, and then he hated the way it was going.”

7. Gabrielle(CoCo) Chanel (?)1883-1971 -”I make fashion women can live in, breath in, feel comfortable in and look younger in.” -???????(????????)???????? ?? -???????(jersey)???????? -????????????????????????? ????????????????Chanel?????? ? -?????????????,??????????? ?????,????????????

8. -1928????Chanel?? -??????????????????? ????? -??????????????Costume Jewelery??,??????????? ???? -1925, Chanel No. 5 ??

9. Chanel vs. American -?????????Chanel????????????? ?????? -20??,Chanel???????,??the boyish ‘garçonne’????,??????????? -?????????,Chanel??‘ If there is no copying,how are you going to have fashion?’

10. Madeline Vionnet ??? ???(?)1876-1975 -??????????(the architect among dressmakers)? ?????????? -???(bias cut)??????( Handkerchief Dress )????????? -????????????? -?????????????????? ?????Vionnet?????,??? 30?? http://www.vionnet.com

12. 1938 1939

13. Jean Patou (?)1887-1936 -?????,?“Jean Patou(????)”?????? ????,?1922???, Patou?????????? ??? -????????????,????????,??? ???????????????? -???????????????????? Patou?? ????????,??????????……???? ???? -1929????????, Jean Patou ???????? ?JOY?????????????????

15. 1937

16. Norman Hartnell ???? (?)1901-1979 -????????????????,??????? ?,??????????????????? -??????????????????????? -30????, Hartnell????????????,?? ?????? -??????????????????? ?,????????????50????

19. 1929??????? 1929???????????,?????????? ???? 1920??????????,??????????? ???????????????,???????? ???,???????,?????,?????? ??????????????????????,? ?????,???????????????,?? ????,?????????,????????? ,????????????,?????????? ?????????

20. ??????… -?????????????,????,?????? ??????, 1925?????????????‘?? ???’??1933????27? -????????,???????????,???? ??????????????? -???‘??’??????????,????????Chanel?????

21. The new kinds of Fashion 1930?,‘the boyish look’??????????, ,????????,?????????,?? 30????????? ???????,????????… -???????? -???????? -?????????,????????,?? ???? -???????????????,????? ????????

23. ?????(backless evening dress) -30??????????? -???????????????,? ??????????(helter neckline) ,?????? -?????????????,???? ??? -??????,??????????? ????????????‘??’?‘?’? ??

24. -?30????,????????????????(? ??????????????, ?????????? ?????)

26. ?? -30???????????????? ?????????? -???????? -?????????????????? -????(??)????(??)????? -????????,30?????? ???( Basque Beret ) ,????? ??????????????

27. ?? -20?????????????????????,?? ?????????(T???)?(Pump) - 1922??????????(???????),?? ????????????????????????

28. ?? -30????????? -???????????? (Salvatore Ferragamo) -?????? -??????????????,??????????????????????,????????,??? ????????

29. ?? ??????????,????????????,?? ???? -??????????,?????? -??????,?????????,???????? ?? -???????????????????????

31. ????????????? 30????,?????????????/?????? ?,??????????????,????????? ??????????????? -????????????(???????) -???????????????,???? ???????? -?????????? -?????? -??????????????(??? ???????)

34. Elsa Schiaparelli(?????? ) 30??????????????????,????? Balenciaga?????Schiaparelli,???Schiaparelli(? ????? )??????????,????????? ?????????????,???????????? ??????????????? 20???????????the boyish,???‘felt that clothes had to be architectural’??????????,? ????????

35. Elsa Schiaparelli ?????? -1932??????? -1933?????Vogue -???????????,???????????? -???????????????(????)??? ??????? -?????????????????? -?1947?Dior’s New Look????,??????? ???????????

37. Elsa Schiaparelli ?????? -?????(?????????????????? ?????????? )????????????,? ??????????????????,? -???? Jean Cocteau????????? -?Jean Cocteau??????????????? -??????????,????????????? ???????????

41. Elsa Schiaparelli ?????? -??(collages) -?????????????????? -??????? -??????????????????????? ????????? -????? -???????? ???????? -1933???????? -???????????(Shocking)(1947)??? ???? ?????????????,?????? ??????????? -???????????????????????… -?????????????????????

44. -1935????????????,????????? ??????????????

45. 1938 1939

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