GODDENING. SHU TAUI AMEN ND, HHC February 26 th 2012. Compact Goddening.
SHU TAUI AMEN
February 26th 2012
Compact gardening requires advance planning. Knowing as much as you can about what you plan to grow, how fast it grows, how it grows, what kind of light is required etc., will help you choose the right things to plant in your garden. The last thing you want to do is go into it without planning and have to restart your whole project!
The only limits compact gardening have are the limitations of your imagination. With the right level of creativity and advanced planning you can have an incredible compact garden no matter where you live.
Rather than procrastinating over the lack of space, start thinking about all the great things you can do in the space that you do have and you will be well on your way to having a great compact garden.
So stop wasting your time worrying about it and go out there and do it!
We honor you by planting these seeds.We ask your blessing upon our fertile soil.We will tend this garden, and keep it healthy,Watching over it in your name.We honor you by planting, and pay you tribute with this garden.Ashe
It has been clearly show that there are plants that do not thrive in the company of certain plants. Roses, fir example, like garlic and chives near them and benefit from them, but they do not like the company of tulip bulbs.
This is generally caused by the roots exuding certain substances into the surrounding soil that suits some plants and disturb others.
Note: There are some plants that give off stronger energy, while other plants are not as vigorous.
Radishes to treat digestive ailments. It is useful in treating constipation, weak appetite, and respiratory tightness.
Summer squash contains vitamin C as well as beta-carotene, folate and fiber. These nutrients make summer squash a tool in preventing cancers, heart disease, anddiseases of inflammation such as arthritis and asthma.
artichokes, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes.
Below are instructions for two different compost bins. The first is a very simple, very inexpensive bin that is ideal for those just getting started. The second bin is sturdier and requires more effort to build. The general structure of the two bins is the same so you can take the general plan and build your own to match your needs.
If you are creating one of the more complex bins, you may consider completing some of the steps requiring cutting or drilling before the volunteers assemble the compost bin in order to save time and to minimize the number of people using potentially dangerous tools. If you decide to build a bin that is different than the ones we describe, remember that the minimum effective size for a compost bin is 3\' by 3\' and the maximum effective size for a single bin is 5\' x 5\'.
Bin 1 - Round Wire Compost Bin
12-1/2 feet of 36" wide 1" poultry wire, or 1/2" hardware cloth, or 16 gauge plastic coated wire mesh
4 metal or plastic clips, or copper wire ties
3 or 4 four foot wooden or metal posts for poultry wire bins
Bin 1 - Round Wire Compost Bin
Heavy duty wire or tin snips,
Hammer or metal file,
Bin 1 - Round Wire Compost Bin
In the case of the round wire bin, you are almost there! Roll out and cut 12½ feet of poultry wire, hardware cloth or plastic coated wire mesh using the wire snips or tin snips. If you use poultry wire, roll back three to four inches at each end of the cut piece to provide a strong clean edge which will be easy to latch and won’t poke or snag. Now form the wire in the form of a circle and secure the ends with clips or wire ties. Your bin is now ready go! Bring the bin to the place where you would like it to be and then space the posts around edge inside wire circle. Hammer the posts firmly into the ground while tensing them against wire to provide support. You now have your compost bin!
What to put in your compost Bin
There are four basic ingredients in the compost pile, nitrogen, carbon, water, and air.
Nitrogen – The nitrogen in your compost pile comes from green materials such as grass clippings, fresh leaves and twigs, vegetable and fruit trimmings, and coffee grounds and filters. Most any organic material that has moisture or ‘life’ still in it is considered a green material.
Carbon – You are adding carbon to your compost by adding brown materials such as dry leaves and grasses, straw, wood chips, corn stalks, shredded newspaper, paper towels, napkins, and cardboard.
Water – Occasionally adding water to the pile will balance the correct moisture level. The proper moisture should be about the same as a wet sponge that has been squeezed to remove moisture.
Air – Oxygen is very important to the organisms that are working in the pile to breakdown the organic material. Bacteria, fungi, microorganisms, and insects need oxygen to breathe and air space in which to move throughout the pile.
Place your bin at least two feet away from any permanent structure.
It should be partially shaded and near a water source.
Don\'t place it too close to your garden because it might attract slugs, but don’t place it too far away because it won’t be convenient!
Make sure that there is a source of water nearby so that you can occasionally moisten the compost.
Do turn your aerobic bin regularly.
Once every 6-7 days is ideal, but it can be done as seldom as once a month. This will insure that air is supplied to all parts of the pile, and that all the material gets composted. When turning the pile, put the material from the middle of the pile outside, and vice versa, so that all the material will be composted.
Do water your compost pile if it is not moist like a sponge.
If it gets too wet, air will not be able to get through the pile, and foul odors may arise. If the pile gets too dry, decomposition will stop. Both aerobic and anaerobic systems need water, but the anaerobic will require less overall.
Don’t put any meat, dairy products, fats, or oils into the compost pile.
These materials tend to putrefy instead of breaking down, and will attract a wide variety of pests, including flies, rats, raccoons, stray dogs and cats, etc.
Don’t put dog and cat wastes into the compost pile.
The manure from any animal that eats meat contains several pathogens that survive the compost process, and may affect any fruits or vegetables on which the compost is used.