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Wednesday January 27

Wednesday January 27. Jennifer Cassel Veronica Cetnar “500 Days of Summer.” Write down three “relationship” trends you find in this film—hand in at end of class. These may become the basis of your first assignment, which we will discuss next Wednesday. Fashion.

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Wednesday January 27

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  1. Wednesday January 27 • Jennifer Cassel • Veronica Cetnar • “500 Days of Summer.” • Write down three “relationship” trends you find in this film—hand in at end of class. • These may become the basis of your first assignment, which we will discuss next Wednesday.

  2. Fashion • So what will be the next big fashion swing if you follow the guidance of our author? • Or should we look to your trends—a bit of crowdsourcing? • Nerd glasses—party glasses? • Flannel shirts • Thigh high boots • Loud patterns • Tattoo fashion

  3. Monday • Where should we go? • Meet at the classroom for a quick lecture and your assignments.

  4. Fashion Trends Crocs, Burberry, Jeggings, Keffiyahs, Climbing Carabiners

  5. Coercion—Atmospherics • At a time, when traditional advertising and marketing (television, newspaper, radio) is receiving less and less of our attention—atmospherics (where we buy) plays a bigger and bigger role. • As Doug Rushkoff says: it’s cutting out the middleman • We’ll look at how Crocs and Burberry did this. • But think about where you shop? • How do these places get you to buy?

  6. Nike and Gothic CathedralsIs shopping our new religion? Niketown Chartres Cathedral

  7. How does your brand—retailer, product, service—create desire? • Through Affluence? • The customer is unworthy—so they feel they want it more. • “You can’t have this.” The red velvet ropes in front of a nightclub. The bouncer who won’t let you in. • Being “in the know.” Special sales, trunk shows, invites to special events. • Sales clerks who make decisions on who is worthy—and who isn’t • Use of specific types of sales clerks to set the standards for who can shop there—and who can’t.

  8. Creating desire? • What is the Gruen Transfer? • How does Abercrombie & Fitch take you from being a customer to one who will impulsively buy? • How did shopping become more about the customer than the product? Do you buy something because it’s high quality or because someone else is wearing it? • The shift from climate controlled malls (Somerset and Briarwood) to “historical” places like Quincy Market or South Street Seaport or Times Square—minus the sleaze? Anything like this in your hometown? • Now the shift to “authenticity.” Fake Main Streets and downtowns when they are actually malls? • So what keeps Ann Arbor from becoming this? Why is there no Gap downtown or Anthropologie or A&F?

  9. Carpet and Muzak • Hard material on the floors versus carpet in the stores. • Muzak: not just for elevators anymore. • Now we even buy the music that we hear in a certain place i.e. Starbucks mixes, W Hotels, and? • We have gone beyond the concept of “third places”—not our work or our homes—but to the creation of brand “places” that characterize who we are and what we want to be. • Examples: REI, Whole Foods, ????

  10. For the Field Trip • Where could we see the “Decompression Zone?” • An example of the “Invariant Right?” • The Butt Brush? Or lack thereof? • The Gruen Transfer? • Music and furnishings?

  11. Anatomy of the Burberry Trend

  12. Burberry Trend from 1856 to 2009 • Founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry. • Wanted to protect his clientele from the weather. • As the New Yorker so eloquently puts it “Weather is to Burberry as sex is to Gucci. • In 1880, he creates a waterproof coat that is made of treated cotton. • In 1891, he open his first store—maybe one of the first destination stores in retail history. • And like Nike it signed up the sports heroes of its day • Explorers who go to the North and South Poles

  13. Burberry Trend • The coats are worn by the likes of Robert Scott who traveled to the Antarctic. Roald Amundsen goes to the South Pole. • Explorers’ endorsement lead to the leisure classes wanting to “look” like them. So they buy Burberry coats. Not unlike guys buying Nike Airs to be like Mike. • In 1997, the company underwent a revolutionary change from stuffy, boring British raincoat brand to high fashion and beyond. • Hired Rose Marie Bravo to “transform the company into a “modern luxury brand.” • Changed the name from Burberrys to Burberry and hires famous photographer Mario Testino to shoot ad campaigns. • Gives trenchcoats to 30 New York fashion editors when Hurricane Floyd hit New York. Each coat costs $1795

  14. Burberry continues • In 2002, the company goes public—which can be a bad habit for fashion brands because now they must show growth every single quarter. • What does that mean?

  15. Is it real nor not?

  16. Bikini anyone?

  17. Real?

  18. And my favorite: Burberry for dogs

  19. And that’s how a trend can go oh-so badly • In 2002, East Ender actress goes on a Burberry buying spree after having her septum repaired because of too much cocaine use. She is wearing is a vision in Burberry and so is her one-year-old daughter. • In 2008, a poll by a London newspaper ranked the Burberry plaid as the worse fashion faux pas…”beating out puffy jackets and even Crocs.” • Burberry has to discontinue a $90 checked cap because it become the favorite accessory of a “chav”—people in England who like their football. And also in the U.S. Burberry becomes a fashion accessory among gang members and urban youths.

  20. So how does it stop this? • It has discontinued many items. • Hit hard at counterfeiters. • And hired new designers and executives who…you guessed it are going back to the good old days of explorers for inspiration. • Going for a “drab fab” look • May 28, 2009 was named “Burberry Day” by the Mayor of New York

  21. Crocs 2002-2009 • A much faster rise and fall than Burberry • Starts out as a shoe for sailing designed by Lyndon Hanson • Raised $239 million for its IPO in 2007 • Ben Affleck and Paris Hilton seen wearing Crocs • New book on President Bush says he liked to wander around the White House in Crocs • 100 million pairs have been sold

  22. Crocs rise and fall • By 2009, they were “over” • The Washington Post quoted a fund manager as saying "the company's zombie-ish. They're dead and they don't know it." in the summer of 2009 • No style icons—and how could there be—they were ugly. • But how did they make an ugly shoe seem not so ugly. • A few ideas? Passed them out at volleyball tournaments. Nice looking folks wearing ugly shoes.

  23. Perfect example of: • A brand that becomes less about the product and more about the customer • Starts off as a shoe that is lightweight and resists bacteria. It makes it great for sailing • A team of three friends start taking the shoes to boat shows • They bring in a new executive who speeds up manufacturing so when a color goes “hot” they can make it under four weeks. • But is this more than a fad? • Can they make it into a company? • Crocs stores • Crocs high heels • Crocs with furry linings?

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