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Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

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Industrial attachment of Sadma fashion wear ltd

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  1. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. 1 | P a g e Southeast University

  2. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. CHAPTER ONE Company Profile 2 | P a g e Southeast University

  3. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 1.1. Company Profile at a glance 1. Factory : Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Factory Address 2. : Mouchak, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh. Phone: 88-02-9298027-8, 88-02-9298048. Head Office 3. : Oriental Plaza, house # 3, Flat # B1, Road # 4, Block # F, Banani, Dhaka, Bangladesh. Phone : 88-02-8834825, 88-02-9871911, Fax # 88-02-9870502 commerce@sadmafashion.com / commerce.sf@gmail.com 4. Chairman : Md. Lokman Hossain Mobile : 01713-038619,01713-245582 Managing Director 5. : Md. Nasir Uddin Mobile : 01713-245588 nasir@sadmafashion.com / nasir.sf@gmail.com Director 6. : Jahir Uddin Mamun Mobile : 01713-085117 mamun@sadmafashion.com / mamun.sf@gmail.com Contact Person 7. : 1. Md. Al-Amin General Manager, Garments Mobile : 01713-245585 garments@sadmafashion.com / garments.sf@gmail.com 2. Roushan Zamir Rony General Manager, Dyeing Mobile : 01912-201117 , 01713-245593 dyeing@sadmafashion.com , dyeing.sf@gmail.com 3. Md. Masudur Rahman General Manager, Knitting Mobile : 01711676758 3 | P a g e Southeast University

  4. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S knitting@sadmafashion.com 8. Year of Establishment : 07.01.2002 9. Paid Up Capital : 40, 000, 00. 00 10. EPB Registration : 4224 11. Bank : SOCIAL ISLAMI BANK LIMITED. Foreign Exchange Branch, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka, Bangladesh. TEL: 9571254 FAX: 9571100 Factory A/C NO: 13300009963 Bank Swift No: SOIVBDDHFEX 12. Product Mix : Single jersey plain fabric, Pique, Single lacoste, 1x1 rib, 2x2 rib, Plain interlock 13. Main Product : T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s & Kid’s wear in varies kinds of knit fabric. 1.2. Office Staff A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers & Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 200 people are working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager. 1.3. Quality Policy Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, and economy and on- time delivery of shipments. To achieve this objective, Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. provides all the necessary resources to ensure a well-equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper care of customer requirements. Sadma Fashion Wear Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared responsibility of its entire staff. The 4 | P a g e Southeast University

  5. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company’s goal. 1.4. Welfare Facilities  Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, job satisfaction & attendance.  Canteen facilities.  Subsidized lunch for staff.  Free snacks for workers.  Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.  Provision for day care center for workers children, annual picnic.  Cultural function.  Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.  Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.  A large dining hall is in the factory including pure drinking water & well sitting arrangement.  Maternity leave & benefit for female workers are provided as per labor law. 1.5. Compliance Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local law’s, Human rights, Social compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government. 1.6. Recruitment policy  No child labor in this factory.  No gender discrimination in recruitment procedure.  There is no force labor. 5 | P a g e Southeast University

  6. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 1.7. Different Departments  Knitting  Dyeing  Finishing  Garments  Utility  Maintenance  Quality Assurance  Planning  Research & Development  Admin  HR & Compliance 1.8. Present Buyers  C & A (Germany)  Zellers (Canada)  George (U.K)  Sears (Canada)  Sainsbury (U.K)  Diplomat Fashion (U.S.A)  Matalan (U.K)  Artextyl (U.S.A / France)  S F G (Australia)  Xios (U.S.A)  Vayla (U.S.A)  Walmart (U.S.A)  Emporio Junior(Italy)  Pierre Cardin (Italy)  Carrefour Import Sas (France) 6 | P a g e Southeast University

  7. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Primeasia University 6 | P a g e

  8. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 1.9. Certification ISO 9001:2008, WRAP. Member: Bangladesh Garments Manufactures & Exporters Association (BGMEA) 7 | P a g e Primeasia University

  9. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 1.10. Production Capacity Production Capacity Knitting : 12000 Kgs Per Day Production Capacity Dyeing & Finishing : 8000 Kgs Per Day Production Capacity Garments : 20000 Pcs. Per Day Production lead time : 45-90 Days 1.11.Production Area Knitting space Dyeing space Finishing Goods & Store 2nd Floor 3rd Floor 4th Floor 5th Floor 6th Floor Other space Total space : 5000 sq. feet : 34000 sq. feet : 5500 sq. feet : 5500 sq. feet : 6500 sq. feet : 6500 sq. feet : 6500 sq. feet : 6500 sq. feet : 2000 sq. feet : 77000 sq. feet 8 | P a g e Primeasia University

  10. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 1.12. Man power Management Organogram of Knitting section General Manager Production Manager Store In charge Supervisor Quality In charge Operator Helper 9 | P a g e Primeasia University

  11. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Organogram of Dyeing & Finishing section GM DGM PM SPO Batch In Finishing In charge Lab In charge ccharge Sewing man Turning m/c Operator Sewing man Squeeze Operator PO Lab Technician APO Q.C. Technician Supervisor Helper Dryer Operator Helper Operator Compactor Operator Helper 10 | P a g e Primeasia University

  12. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Factory Building 11 | P a g e Primeasia University

  13. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S CHAPTER TWO Knitting Section 12 | P a g e Primeasia University

  14. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.1. Process Definition Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitting consists of consecutive loops, called stitch. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in final product, often a garment. 2.2. Raw Materials for Knitting 1. Yarn 2. Lycra 2.3. Source of Raw Material - Saiham cotton mills ltd. - Shamsuddin spinning - Matam spinning - A T &T spinning - N.Z. spinning - PHP spinning - Zubayer spinning - Square Yarns ltd. - Maksons spinning - Rising spinning - Anwar Mannan Textile - J.K. spinning - The Delta spinning - R.K. spinning - Jamuna spinning - Shiria spinning - Tara spinning - Karim spinning - Paradise spinning - Out pace spinning - Silver line composite - GPI Textiles, India - BKM, Indonesia - Hysoung, Vietnum etc. 13 | P a g e Primeasia University

  15. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.4. Classification of Knitting section Knitting section is divided into two parts- 1. Circular knitting section. 2. Fabric inspection section. 2.4.1. Circular Knitting section There are two types of machines available in this area- 1. Single jersey and 2. Double jersey. 2.4.2. Machine description of circular Knitting section SL. No. Machine Brand Origin Machine Diameter 20” 22” 18” 19” 21” 40” 26” 30” 32” 24” 34” 32” 21” 25” 19” 38” 36” 40” 38” 40” 28” 36” 34” 26” 30” 24” 20” 25” Gauge Feeder Quantity 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J D/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J D/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J Runshan Runshan Runshan Runshan Runshan Fukahama Fukahama Zentex Fukahama Fukahama Masa Masa Lisky Lisky Lisky Masa Masa Boshuo Boshuo Lisky Lisky Boshuo Boshuo Yong cheng Yong cheng Yong cheng Zentex Bushuo China China China Chine Chine Taiwan Taiwan Singapore Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan China China Taiwan Taiwan China China Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Singapore China 24 24 24 24 24 18 24 24 24 24 20 20 24 24 24 24 20 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 60 66 54 57 63 84 78 90 96 72 102 96 63 75 57 114 108 120 114 84 84 108 102 78 90 72 60 74 3 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 1 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 2 set 1 set 14 | P a g e Primeasia University

  16. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.5. Fabric Inspection section There is one machine in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given below: Machine name Perfect fabric check machine Manufacturer Seven Star Engineering Country Bangladesh Year of manufacturing 2008 2.6. Production Process 2.6.1. Process Flow chart of Knitting in Sadma Sample fabric Design analysis Machine selection Setting the machine for the specific design Yarn in cone form Feeding the yarn cone in the creel Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices Knitting 15 | P a g e Primeasia University

  17. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting Inspection Numbering 2.6.2. Description of Production Process In every mill, a sequence is maintained in production processing. It is also followed in this mill. The process sequences are in list below: 1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it. 2) Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running. 3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc. 4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM. 5) Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing task due time. 6) Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. 7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section. 16 | P a g e Primeasia University

  18. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.7. Production Parameter 1. Machine Diameter 2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute) 3. No. of feeds or feeders in use 4. Machine Gauge 5. Count of yarn 6. Required time (M/C running time) 7. Machine running efficiency 2.8. Relationship between Knitting Parameters 1. GSM increase with the increase of stitch length. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. 7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM. 2.9. Production Calculation A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency  RPM  No. of Feeder  No. of Needle SL(mm) 3527.80 Yarn count B. Production/shift in meter / N Course / min . Cours e cm o. o f Feeder  60 8 Efficiency PM  ourse / C 0 R cm  1 0 C. Fabric width in meter  Total no. of wales Wales / cm 100  Total no. of Needles used in k nitting Wales / cm 100 17 | P a g e Primeasia University

  19. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.10. Considerable Points to produce knitted fabric When buyers order for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These includes- - Type of Fabric or design of Fabric. - Finished G.S.M. - Yarn count. - Types of yarn (combed or carded). - Diameter of the fabric. - Stitch length. - Color depth. 2.11. G S M It is a technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. Points considered while setting grey GSM: - Level - Enzyme Color - Suited or non- suited Changing of GSM: - Major control by VDQ pulley. - Minor control by stitch length adjustment. - Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the G.S.M. will decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase. 2.12. Factors should change in case of Fabric Design - Cam setting - Set of needle - Size of loop shape 2.13. Effect of Stitch length on color depth If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller. 18 | P a g e Primeasia University

  20. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.14. Responsibilities of a Production Officer  Monitor and control shift wise production, plant utilization, waste generation etc. implement correct work methods and maintain all records related to production.  Responsible for systematic planning and execution of production programs.  Adequate control over process in order to achieve quality of product & better waste management.  Monitor shift wise production, utilization etc. and take corrective action for any shortfall.  Maintain all the procedure of his department and shall incorporate amendments as and when required in procedure.  Responsibilities for monitoring the performance of manpower under him and identification of training needs. 2.15. Methods of Increasing Production By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased – 1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed. 2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. 3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production . So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased. 4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector. 5. By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. C) Using yarn feed control device. 2.16. Faults and Their Causes in Knitting 1. Hole Causes: 19 | P a g e Primeasia University

  21. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S • Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. • During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. • If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. • Badly knot or splicing. • Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies: • Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. • Use proper count of yarn. • Correctly set of yarn feeder. • Knot should be given properly. 2. Needle Mark Causes: • When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. • If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies: • Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. 3. Sinker Mark Causes: • When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. • If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies: • Sinker should be changed 4. Star Causes: 20 | P a g e Primeasia University

  22. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S • Yarn tension variation during production. • Buckling of the needle latch. • Low G.S.M fabric production. Remedies: • Maintain same Yarn tension during production. • Use good conditioned needles. 5. Drop Stitches Causes: • Defective needle. • If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. • Take-down mechanism too loose. • Insufficient yarn tension. • Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies: • Needle should be straight & well. • Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. • Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. • Yarn tension should be properly. 6. Oil stain Causes: • When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line. Remedies: • Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. • Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. 21 | P a g e Primeasia University

  23. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 7. Rust stain Causes: • If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies: • If any rust on the machine parts then fix it. • Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling. 8. Pin hole Causes: • Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies: • Change the needle. 9. Cloth fall- out Causes: • Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Remedies: • Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. 10. Fly dust: Causes: • In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production. Remedies: • Blowing air for cleaning the different parts after a certain period of time. • By cleaning the floor continuously. 22 | P a g e Primeasia University

  24. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S • By using suction system for cleaning too much lint on the floor. • Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric. 11. Yarn contamination Causes: • If yarn contains foreign matters then it remains in the fabric even after finishing, • If lot or count mixing occurs. Remedies: • By avoiding lot & count mixing. • Fault less spinning. 12. Yarn Faults: • Neps. • Slubs. • Yarn count variations. • Thick/Thin place in yarn. • Hairiness. • Dead Fiber. 2.17. Fabric Inspection system Before batching the fabric is required to check. In this section fabric is check out. In this industry 4-point system is used for inspection. By using this system-  The defects are identified in the roll and marked by red arrows  Individually the length of defect is measured and record  Then measure penalty point 2.18. Different Fabric GSM and Their Yarn Count S/J without lycra – 23 | P a g e Primeasia University

  25. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Fabric G.S.M 110 - 120 120 - 130 130 - 140 140 - 150 150 - 160 170 - 210 Yarn Count 40s – 36 s 36s – 32s 32s – 28s 28s 26s 24s Rib without lycra – Fabric G.S.M 180 - 190 190 - 200 200 - 215 215 - 230 230 - 250 250 - 300 Yarn Count 36s – 32s 30s 28s 26s 24s 24s Interlock without lycra – Yarn Count 34s 32s 30s 26s Fabric G.S.M 200 - 220 220 - 230 230 - 250 250 - 300 Lacoste without lycra – Fabric G.S.M 180 - 190 190 - 210 210 - 230 230 – 250 Yarn Count 30s 28s 26s 26s 40D Lycra Rib – 24 | P a g e Primeasia University

  26. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Fabric G.S.M 230 - 240 240 - 250 250 - 280 280 - 300 Yarn Count 32s 30s 26s 24s 40D Lycra S/J – Yarn Count 34s 32s 30s 28s 26s Fabric G.S.M 180 - 190 190 - 210 210 - 220 220 – 240 240 - 250 2.19. Different parts of Knitting Machine Sl. No. Name of the Parts Function 01 Creel All the side of machine, it holds the yarn package Yarn is drawn through this for security and avoiding mixing waste. Wind the yarn from package and send to needle for reducing tension All the feeders are driven by it. Change the stitch length .So the G.S.M is maintained. Supply yarn to needle from very short distance. Main part of the machine, it helps to form loop. It can be cylinder or dial which holds the needle Direct the needle, sinker to form different kinds of loops. It can detect the needle breakage, jumping etc. Draw the formed fabric at downwards. Press the fabric with take up 02 Tube 03 Positive feeder 04 05 Toothed belt VDQ pulley 06 Thread guide 07 Needle 08 Needle bed 09 Cam 10 Needle detector 11 Take up roller 12 Pressure roller 25 | P a g e Primeasia University

  27. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S roller. 13 Batch roller Wind the fabric into its surface to form roll. Removes the dirts, flocks from the machine Clean the needle, sinker trick plate etc. Lubricate the cam, sinker, needle and other gearings 14 Blower 15 Air nozzle 16 Lubricating parts 2.20. Images of Machines and Machine parts Circular Knitting Machine Dust remover fan Meter 26 | P a g e Primeasia University

  28. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S VDQ Pulley Cam Positive Feeder Yarn guide Needle Sinker 27 | P a g e Primeasia University

  29. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Take up roller Creel Fabric Inspection Machine 2.21. Quality Assurance After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Some points are needed to maintain for higher Quality fabric. These are- 1) Brought good quality yarn. 2) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly. 3) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately. 28 | P a g e Primeasia University

  30. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 4) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month. 5) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system. Grading Procedure- a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect. b) Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect. c) Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect. d) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect. e) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect. Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barrie, crack marks, are judgment defects. Equipment used for measuring quality- 1) Inspection m/c. 2) Electronic balance 3) GSM cutter. 4) Measuring tape. 5) Scissors. 6) Indication sticker. 29 | P a g e Primeasia University

  31. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.22. Design Analysis 30 | P a g e Primeasia University

  32. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Primeasia University 31 | P a g e

  33. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.23. Sample Representation Single jersey Rib Interlock Single lacoste 32 | P a g e Primeasia University

  34. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 2.24. Layout Plan of Knitting Floor 1 2 3 6 8 8 8 8 8 8 9 1= GM Office; 2= PM office; 3= PO & other staffs; 4= Inspection machine; 5= Weighting M/C; 6= Compressor; 7= Table; 8= Circular knitting m/c; 9= Store; 10= Washroom 33 | P a g e Primeasia University

  35. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S CHAPTER THREE Batching Section 34 | P a g e Primeasia University

  36. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 3.1. Batching Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics that should be dyed and processed for a Particular lot of a Particular order. Primarily Batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section’s in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing Manager. Sometime Planning is adjusted according to m/c condition. 3.2. Batch Process Follow-Up Grey Fabric Inspection Batching Fabric Turning Stitch the fabric Storing for dyeing 3.3. General Instructions for the Final Inspection a. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard. b. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading. c. All fabric must meet specifications. d. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality. e. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality. f. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading. 35 | P a g e Primeasia University

  37. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S g. Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric. h. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade. i. All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out. j. Fabric up to 70 inches will be allowed a bow of not more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inches. k. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods. 3.4. Object of Batching  To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.  Turn the grey fabric if require.  To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria- a) Order sheet (Received from buyer) b) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) c) M/C capacity d) M/C available e) Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) f) Emergency  To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. 3.5. Proper Batching Criteria  To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.  To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.  To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.  To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade. 3.6. Machine in Batch Section No. of Machine : 01 Machine Name : Air turning m/c Origin : Bangladesh 36 | P a g e Primeasia University

  38. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S CHAPTER FOUR Lab Dip Section 37 | P a g e Primeasia University

  39. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 4.1. Lab Dip Development Lab Dip Development means the sample is to be dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning is done. 4.2. Objective of Lab Lip Development The main objectives of lab dip are as follows-  To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.  To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box.  To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.  Finally approved Lab Dip(Grade: A B C) 4.3. Development of Lab Dip in Sadma Receiving standard swatch Spectrophotometer reading Recipe start up software Start up recipe given Manual dispersion (pipetting) Pot dyeing Unload 38 | P a g e Primeasia University

  40. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Normal wash Acid wash Hot wash Cold wash Drying 4.4. Preparation and Storage of Stock Dyes and Chemicals Preparation of Concentration of stock dye solution - Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily use. Preparation of Concentration of stock chemical solution - Similarly 25% salt and 25% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use. 4.5. Dyes and Chemicals Measuring Formula for Lab The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow - Amount of dye soln (ml) = 39 | P a g e Primeasia University

  41. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Example – In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm Shade % = 2% [ If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes ] then , Amount of dye soln (ml) = = 20 ml . The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow - Amount of chemical soln (ml) = Example – In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5 gm Salt = 20 g/l M: L = 1 : 10 [ If taken 25 % stock soln of salt ] then , Amount of chemical soln (ml) = = 4 ml 4.6. Color Measurement of Standard sample Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. Color measurement can be done by two methods – Manual Method: In manual method, the standard sample’s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the standard matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade 40 | P a g e Primeasia University

  42. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color matching. Instrumental method: The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of color measurement. “Spectrophotometer” (Data color) interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching .This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching. 4.7. Procedure of Lab Dip (For 100% cotton Fabric) 1) Fabric weight is measured by electric balance. 2) Calculate the recipe. 3) Keep the fabric in the pot. 4) Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipeting . 5) Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used. Program – 1: For light shade Fixed temp. = 600° C Time = 60 min. Program – 2: For dark shade Fixed temp. = 800° C Time = 60 min. 6) After finished the dyeing time then cold wash is done for two times. 7) Acid wash for neutralization. 8) Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950° C. 9) Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard. 41 | P a g e Primeasia University

  43. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S CHAPTER FIVE Dyeing & Finishing Section 42 | P a g e Primeasia University

  44. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 5.1. Dyeing Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye. 5.1.1. Raw Materials For Dyeing The raw materials used in dyeing are- 1. Grey Fabric: Single jersey, Interlock, Lacoste, Rib, Lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others. 2. Dyes and Chemicals. 5.1.2. Machine Description of Dyeing & Finishing Section Sl No Description Capacity No. of M/C 1 Brand Origin 1 High pressure Dyeing M/C Atmospheric soft flow Dyeing M/C Atmospheric soft flow Dyeing M/C Atmospheric soft flow Dyeing M/C High pressure Dyeing M/C High pressure Dyeing M/C High pressure sample Dyeing M/C Sample Dyeing M/C Sample Dyeing M/C Sample Dyeing M/C Stenter 1050 Kg Delmenler Turkey 2 750 Kg 1 Fongs China 3 500 Kg 2 Fongs China 4 250 Kg 1 Fongs China 5 600 Kg 1 Woo yang Korea 6 350 Kg 1 Woo yang Korea 7 30 Kg 1 Son-tech China 8 9 10 11 100 Kg 20 Kg 30 Kg 10-12 Ton 10 Ton 1 1 1 2 Classic Classic Classic Ehwha Glotech Bianco Bangladesh Bangladesh Bangladesh Korea 12 Compactor with pin chain Slitting Back sewing Squeezer Tensionless Dryer M/C 1 Italy 13 14 15 16 12 Ton 6 Ton 8 Ton 8 Ton 1 1 2 1 Bianco Italy China Korea Turkey Dongnam Alkan 43 | P a g e Primeasia University

  45. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 17 18 19 20 21 Compactor Calender Lab M/C Grey inspection M/C Industrial washing M/C Tumble Dryer Hydro Extractor Gas Generator Compressor Compressor Compressor Boiler Gas Generator Dyeing M/C High pressure Dyeing M/C 8 Ton 8 Ton 1 1 2 1 1 Fabcon Dongnam Son-tech Glory Glory U S A Korea China China China 3 Ton 50 Kg 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 150 50 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Glory Glory MWM Boge Kaeser Dalgakiran Dealim Royal MWM Texlink Dongnam China China U S A Germany Germany Turkey Korea Germany China China 480 KW 10 Bar 11 Bar 35 Bar 10 Ton 1 MW 1500 Kg 500 Kg 5.1.3. Stages required completing a whole Dyeing Process  Pretreatment (Scouring & Bleaching)  Neutral  Enzyme (If required)  Dye bath/Leveling bath (with Salt, Soda)  After treatment 5.1.4. Amount of different Ingredients used in different stages PRETREATMENT Ingredient Wetting agent Anti-creasing agent Sequestering agent Caustic Stabilizer Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2) NEUTRALIZATION Acetic acid DYEING Leveling agent Quantity 1.2 g/l 1.0 g/l 1.0 g/l 2.5 g/l 0.5 g/l 3.0 g/l 1 g/l 2 g/l 44 | P a g e Primeasia University

  46. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Dyes Salt Soda ash AFTER TREAMENT Acetic acid Soaping agent SOFTENING Acetic acid Softener 10 g/l 2 g/l 1 g/l 1 g/l 0.5 g/l 1 g/l 5.1.5. Dyes Used in Sadma Brand Name Remazol Origin India Remazole Yellow -RR Remazole Blue-RR Remazole Brill Blue-R Special Remazole turquoise Blue G Remazole Orange-RR Synozole Korea Synozole Yellow K3RS Synozole Red K3BS Synozole Nave Blue KBF Synozole Blue KBR Dychufix China Dychufix Yellow 3RXF Dychufix Yellow 4 GL Dychufix Black BHC Dychufix Orange 2RXF Dychufix Black FWN 45 | P a g e Primeasia University

  47. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S Disperse China Desperse Yellow-4G Desperse Blue 562 RL Desperse Blue 60 BGF Desperse navy Blue ECOG Desperse Black ECOG Dis-Orange –HF Dis-Red -HF Dis-Black-HF Dis Navy Blue HF Dis-Blue-HF Dis-Yellow-HF Corazole India Cor-Red RD Cor-Blue-RD Cor-Orange-RD Cor-Traquise Blue –G Cor-Bri-Blue-R-Sp Cor-Bri –Blue-BB 5.1.6. Process Description for Cotton fabric Dyeing 1. Required amount of water was taken into the machine 2. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes at normal temperature 3. BOS, FE,CF,H-53 (Scouring Chemicals) were added at a time for 5 minutes 4. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes 5. Temperature increased at 60° C 6. Hydrogen per Oxide(H2O2)was added for 5 minutes 7. Temperature increased at 95°C and continue for 1 hour 8. Sample check 9. Cold wash at 40°C for 5-10 minutes 10.Hot wash at 95°C for 5-10 minutes 11.Required amount of water was loaded 12.Acetic acid was added 13.Temperature increased at 80°C for 15-20 minutes 46 | P a g e Primeasia University

  48. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S 14.Cold wash at 40°C and drain 15.Water filled and Acetic acid was added 16.PH check at 4.5 17.Leveling agent at 60°C for 5-10 minutes 18.Salt at 60°C for 5-10 minutes 19.Run time 10 minutes 20.Dyes at 60°C for 30 minutes 21.Run time 10 minutes 22.Check the sample 23.Soda ash at 60 for 40 minutes 24.Run time 10 minute 25.Check the sample 26.Color steam 27.B D (Bathe Drain) 28.Wash 29.Hot wash 30.Acetic Acid treatment 31.Run for 20 min 32.Then unload the garments 5.1.7. Common Dyeing Faults 1. Uneven dyeing: Causes: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). - Improper color dosing - Using dyes of high fixation property - Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers - Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: - By ensuring even pretreatment - By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals - Proper controlling of dyeing m/c 2. Batch to Batch Shade variation: Causes: - Fluctuation of Temperature - Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals - Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals - Dyes lot variation - Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio - Improper pretreatment Remedies: 47 | P a g e Primeasia University

  49. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S - Use standard dyes and chemicals - Maintain the same liquor ratio - Follow the standard pretreatment procedure - Maintain the same dyeing cycle - Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. - Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process. - The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily 3. Crease mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal - Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: - maintaining proper reel speed & pump speed - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Reducing the m/c load - Higher liquor ratio 5. Dye spot: Causes: - Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath - Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath Remedies: - By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals - By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed 6. Softener Mark: Causes: - Improper mixing of the Softener - Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener - Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed - Proper Mixing of the softener before addition - Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener 5.2. Finishing The making of a marketable and consumer usable textile is not completed after fabric production dyeing or printing operation. Fabrics usually still need to undergo an additional processing known as finishing, which is the final processing before the fabric is cut into apparel or made 48 | P a g e Primeasia University

  50. Sadma Industrial Training Report adma Fashion Wear Ltd. S into any articles of textiles. Finishing is what improves attractiveness and makes fabrics suitable for their intended end use. 5.2.1. Objective of Finishing - Improving the appearance like Luster, whiteness etc. - Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc. - Wearing qualities, no soiling, anti-crease, anti-shrink, comfort etc. - Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc. - Covering the faults on the original cloth. - Increasing the weight of the cloth. 5.2.2. Types of Finishing Finishing is done in two ways- 1. Open Finish 2. Tube Finish a. The machines that are used for open line are given bellow –  Slitting and Dewatering machine  Stenter machine  Compactor machine b. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –  Dewatering machine  Dryer  Compactor machine 5.2.3. Flow-chart of Finishing Finishing Open Finish Tube Finish Slitting and Dewatering Squeezing Stentering Drying Inspection Compacting Delivery Inspection Delivery 49 | P a g e Primeasia University

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