Prototype Rails Cocoa Beach 2006. Kitbashing a Plan 4084 Pullman From Branchline Components by Andy Harman. Dean Hale Photo. Dean Hale Photo. Mainline Modeler drawing by George Trager. Pullman 6 section, 6 bedroom plan 4084A Rebuilt from plan 3410 Single vestibule/blind end
Kitbashing a Plan 4084 Pullman
From Branchline Components
by Andy Harman
From here on forget the drawing… the side length has to match my stock Branchline side
I use Zap-A-Gap CA to fill the cracks on the back of the side, then sand it down level with some coarse sandpaper. This reinforces the strength of the pieced-together side effectively.
Can you spot the joints?
Microscale Decals and Dullcote Overspray
My standard rework of a Branchline frame end. Cover up the recess for the swivel coupler.
Branchline Pullman end - pedimented but not blind
Use extra stock Branchline sides and roof to hold the body together in form, while attaching the modified Walthers end
Note plastic I-beam to close up the frame gap from the coupler swing arm
We won’t be this lucky with the “real” roof….
Tom Madden sent me these photos of another techniquefor making a blind end by modifying the Branchline endin place.
The 4084A has a dual brake cylinder arrangement. The components are fairly standard and can be found in the Branchline kits mostly. And the underframe starts out completely bare – nothing to grind off!
The sills, crossmembers, and brake cylinders have been installed.
The mounting pad for the second cylinder chiseled from another
Underframe and trimmed to fit in the location between the ribs.
The brake chain, rod, and wheel are Branchline parts. The chain will sag appropriately with the car right side up.
Notice the Proto87 pivot washer. The other end will have the
washer turned 90 degrees. Trimming the ends of the sills is
necessary to clear the truck’s brake beam and center slab.
This photo doesn’t do it justice.
AMB Laserkit makes a “Common” Pullman glass kit, which yousee here, and separate etched class sets for the lounge windows.
I have placed the 6 sections from a 12-1 interior in the properposition. Unfortunately I didn’t have the time or parts to completethe interior. Inside walls are Pollyscale Sand (beige).
Ouch… vertical seam kind of stands out but, this is at major magnification. And with a stand-in roof.
Oh yeah, the roof.Actually about 60% of the12-1 roof can be kept, andthe modifications madeat the blind end only.
Dremel on low speed withcutting disc and steady handsand don’t forget the goggles.
Cut close, file to fit… cut close, file to fit… except this is oneweird filing job. Especially after midnight on the night beforethe flight to Orlando. Fly Delta… they need the business.
This shows what I missed at the time. My first attempt at the ductedpiece was warped. Guess what… styrene warped tends to stay warped.I messed things all up with glue trying to force it before throwing thispiece away.
Ahh, much better. These are very well made parts, and evenwhen chopped and diced, if they don’t fit back together, somethingis wrong. The side is a stand-in here, in fact the whole body is a“seamstress dummy”, a nice way to prevent jabbing somethingprecious with something sharp.
Now what… this needs to be a “turtle” end on just thiscorner… maybe the NERS part will work - ?
Around to the other side… the duct transition was cut from anotherroof. Twice. I had to thin down the vertical part a lot, just leavingthe rivet line/bead.
Other side needs plain clerestory and 2 vents…cut close and…. well, you know…
Eeew. NERS end cap plus styrene plus Zap-A-Gap. Sanded and morestyrene. More Zap. More sanding. Today a sculptor, tomorrow… musician?
I’m often asked, “How do you go about getting a nice junkbox?Well….. I think this is a pretty good start.
Self discipline is also very important. Only workon one project at a time…..
T H E E N D
(well almost…. Still have to finish the interior…and the end details… and the pongers… and thewindow shades… and people…)
See you next year!!