FASH 15 textiles the fiber manufacturing process 1889 the first manufactured fiber was shown at the Paris Exhibition 191

1. FASH 15 textiles • the fiber manufacturing process • 1889 the first manufactured fiber was shown at the Paris Exhibition • 1910 rayon • 1924 acetate • 1939 nylon—synthetic

2. the fiber manufacturing process • manufactured fiber—any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber • generic names—refers to family of manufactured or synthetic fibers with similar chemical composition • trade names—companies’ names for fibers used for promotion & marketing • two types of manufactured fibers— • regenerated • synthetic • impact has far exceeded original predictions—caused tremendous changes in the way people live

3. the fiber manufacturing process

4. fiber spinning • raw material is: • natural product—cellulose or protein • synthetic polymer • dissolved in liquid chemicals and made into a spinning solution (dope) • all manufactured-fiber spinning processes are based on these 3 steps: • preparing a viscous dope or melt • forcing or extruding dope or melt through opening in spinneret to form a fiber • solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation or cooling

5. fiber spinning

6. fiber spinning

7. fiber spinning

8. fiber modifications there are 5 general ways that a fiber modification can be made: the size and shape of the spinneret can be changed to produce fibers of different sizes and shapes the fiber’s molecular structure and crystallinity can be changed to enhance fiber durability other compounds can be added to the polymer or dope to enhance fiber performance the spinning process can be modified to alter fiber characteristics in a more complex modification, two polymers can be combined as separate entities within a single fiber or yarn

9. fiber modifications—spinneret changing fiber size is a common modification—simplest way is changing size of spinneret opening macrofiber: denier greater than 1.0 microfiber: denier less than 1.0 ultrafine fibers: less than 0.3 dpf nanofibers: fibers with cross sections measuring less than 1,000 nanometers (human hair 80,000 nm) macro & microfibers currently used in apparel and interior applications nanofibers used in protective apparel, safety harnesses & technical/medical filtration

10. fiber modifications—fiber shape changing cross-sectional shape is easiest way to alter a fiber’s mechanical & aesthetic properties—usually by changing shape of spinneret hole many shapes possible: flat, trilobal, quadrilobal, pentalobal, triskelion, cruciform, cloverleaf, Y, T trilobal widely used in nylon & polyester—beautiful silklike hand, sheen & color, subtle opacity, soil-hiding capacity, bulk without weight, wicking, crush resistance, & good textured crimp multilobal fibers improve hydrophilic, wicking and moisture management properties

11. fiber modifications—molecular structure • manufacturers can change molecular structure for specific end uses: • high-tenacity fibers—modification of polymer to increase polymerization • low-piling fibers—slightly reduced molecular weight of polymer chains • binder staple—when mixture is heated, bonds regular fibers together • low-elongation—changing the balance of tenacity and extension (useful in blends) • shape memory fibers—designed to conform to specific shape when specific stimuli (heat, light, etc…) are activated

12. fiber modifications—additives delustering: titanium oxide—a white pigment—is added to spinning solution before fiber is extruded; particles of pigment absorb light…weakens fiber solution dyeing: addition of colored pigments or dyes to spinning solution; provides color permanence; cost more per pound than other fibers

13. fiber modifications—additives whiteners & brighteners: added to spinning solution to make fibers look whiter & resist yellowing; reflect more blue light & masks yellowing cross-dyeable fibers: incorporates dye-accepting chemicals into molecular structure antistatic fibers: fiber is made wettable by adding an antistatic compound to the fiber-polymer raw material

14. fiber modifications—additives sunlight-resistant fibers: nitrogenous compounds added to dope to stabilize reaction between UV light and fiber or dye; carefully selected for specific fiber-dye combination flame-resistant fibers: produced by changing polymer structure or by adding flame-retardant compounds to spinning solution

15. fiber modifications—additives antibacterial fibers: chemical compounds that kill or discourage growth of bacteria and other microbes are incorporated in spinning solution prior to extrusion or during spinning may require frequent washing to remove microbial debris and allow additive to work on living microbes

16. fiber modifications—complex • fiber modifications that provide comfort and improve human performance are important in today’s industry • more efficient materials produce lighter-weight, more comfortable products • manage moisture • wick perspiration away from skin • provide warmth or insulation • decrease friction & increase speed • protect from wind, rain or snow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnYaQgdazEQ

17. environmental concerns & sustainability • use only a small fraction of the by-products of the production of gasoline and fuel oils • fibers like nylon, polyester & olefin produced from natural gases or butadiene (by-product of refining crude oil) • significant efforts have been made by fiber producers to minimize negative environmental aspects of fiber production: • government regulations • concern for safety • economic necessity of reducing costs • public image concerns

18. environmental concerns & sustainability natural degrading of fiber? with current landfill practices, natural fibers do not even degrade on their own recycling of synthetic fibers very important to industry—polyester produced from preconsumer and postconsumer waste include a range of products from underwear to carpeting “100% recyclable products” will be taken back by manufacturer and recycled when disposed of by consumer

19. manufactured fiber consumption • in 1928 manufactured fibers accounted for 5% of fiber consumption in the U.S… • now • 64% world textile consumption • 83% U.S. textile consumption • consumers continue to value natural fibers, but in many end uses manufactured fibers are clearly superior

20. manufactured vs. natural fibers manufactured fibers provide performance options not possible with natural fibers incredibly versatile and modified to meet wide range of performance expectations can be produced quickly in the quantity and quality needed to meet market demand