F I D ,Donghua University,Shanghai，China，2006

F I D ,Donghua University,Shanghai，China，2006 东华大学 Weiyuan Zhang，2006

Campus of Donghua University in Songjiang district,Shanghai

Fashion Institute of Design, Donghua University,Shanghai

2007 Beltwide Cotton Conferences"Equipping for Excellence" Application of Genetic Algorithm to Study the Comfort of Waterproof Breathable Fabric Weiyuan zhang,Yan liu,Xiangling Meng Donghua University,Shanghai,2006

Outline • Abstract • Introduction • Experimental • Objective Experimental • Subjective Experimental • Comfort Model • Discussion and Conclusions

Abstract • Anappraisal modelbased on genetic algorithms has been developed and applied to the comfort of different kinds of waterproof breathable fabrics on the basis of subjective and objective experimental measurements. • Comparison of the results with real tests showsexcellent agreement. • Using the appraisal model we canpredict the comfort class of garmentmade of different kinds of breathable waterproof fabrics in different dressing conditions based on the objective testing indexes.

This paper • Two indexes • used in the objective tests, thermal insulating value and moist insulating value. • Three wear trials: • Resting, Exercising and Rainy Procedures • Fabrics properties may not really reflect their final performance on the garments,Three wear trial permit testing more closely to actual wear. • Develop three mathematical simulations of comfort evaluation of waterproof breathable by Genetic Algorithm

Outline • Abstract • Introduction • Experimental • Objective Experimental • Subjective Experimental • Comfort Model • Discussion and Conclusions

Experimental • Objective Experimental • Materials (Table 1 to table 3) • Five high density fabrics • Four coated fabrics • Five laminated fabrics • One impermeable fabric • Experimental conditions: a climate chamber • Temperature : 20℃ • Relative humidity : 35% • Air velocity : 0.1m/s • Experimental methods • JISL——WVP Water vapor penetration • LFY-217B test water pressure • Results

Objective Experimental Table1 Characteristic of high density experimental fabrics Table 2 characteristic of coated experimental fabrics

Objective Experimental Table 3 characteristic of laminated experimental fabrics

Results of objective experimental Table 4 Testing Results of experimental fabrics

Comparing Results Fig 1 Testing results （It）of experimental fabrics • Fig 1 • Shows that three types of waterproof breathable experimental fabrics have similar heat transfer property.

Comparing Results Fig 2 Testing results （im）of experimental fabrics • Fig 2 • shows the moisture transfer property ranks as follows • High Density > Laminated > Coated

Comparing Results Fig 3 Testing results （WVP）of experimental fabrics • Fig 3 • shows the water vapor transfer property ranks as follows • HighDensity > Laminated > Coated

Comparing Results Fig 4 Testing results （p）of experimental fabrics • Fig 4 • shows the waterproof ability ranks as follows • Laminated > Coated > High Density

Subjective experimental • Materials • Seven testing garments were made of waterproof breathable fabrics shown in table 1 to 3 • Experimental process • Put on the assigned raincoat • Enter the climate chamber • Appraisal • Results rate rate Expose to the rain 10m rate Run 10m Sit 10m

Results of subjective experimental Table 5 Appraisal ruler(thermal,wetness and overall comfort) 1 2 3 5 4 1: extremely discomfort; 5: extremely comfort Table 6 Appraisal Results of testing garments

Comfort Model • Introduction of Genetic Algorithms • Comfort Model • Appraise Model • Evaluation of the Appraise Model

Comfort Model • Introduction of Genetic Algorithms • Global optimization methods based on several metaphors from biological evolutions • Comfort Model • Program was written in Visual Basic 6.0 • Input patterns • It im WVP and P • Output patterns • The comfort class

Table 7 Genetic terms Comfort Model

x x Appraise model • Use symbols defined as following F F F F f f f f x x y y （1）（4）（2）（3）

b Fig.5 Appraise Model for Resting Procedure F f6 f1 f8 f7 f7 f4 f7 f5 f7 a c d f8 f5 F f6 f8 f9 f6 f4 f4 f4 a a c Fig.6 Appraise Model for Running Procedure

Fig. 7 Appraise Model for Rainy Procedure b F f9 f5 f8 f8 f5 f4 f6 f4 f3 a c d

Evaluation of the Appraise Model • Six garments made of other samples • Subjective appraisal with same testing procedure and experimental condition. • Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests (Fig.8,9,10) • Correlation between real test and model predict at three states (Fig 11 & Table 8)

Fig.8 Comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in resting procedure Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in resting

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in running Fig.9 comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in running procedure

Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests in rainy Fig.10 Comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in rainy procedure • Discussion • Comparison of the predict comfort class with real tests shows excellent agreement

Discussion • Obviously, the correlation between real test and model predict is significant at three states, that is resting, running and rainy. Fig.11 The scatter plot of the appraisal values between real test and model predict Table 8 correlation between real test and model predict at three states

Conclusions • From the comparison of predicted results with real subjective appraisal in three testing procedure, we can make a conclusion that the genetic algorithms proposed in this paper offered a satisfactory model to study the comfort of three types of waterproof breathable fabrics. • The following conclusions emerged as a result test that same testing garment got different comfort evaluation result in different testing procedure, which indicates the relationship between clothing comfort and wear condition.

Thank you for your attentionandQuestions & Suggestions are welcome always.

F I D ,Donghua University,Shanghai，China，2006