Consumer perspectives on eco-labelling of textiles Results from five European countries

1. Consumer perspectivesoneco-labellingoftextilesResults from five European countries Marthe Hårvik Austgulen and Eivind Stø National Institute for Consumer Research (SIFO)

2. The roleoftheconsumer • Eco-labels is presented as a solution to environmental challenges in the textile industry. • Eco-labelling presupposes a relatively rational actor, able to seek and process information and willing to act upon that information. • Consumers are ascribed roles as acting and morally responsible persons. • Are European consumers ready to take on this responsibility?

3. Research questions • How do consumers consider the relevant labelling schemes for textiles? • What are the consumers’ attitudes and practices regarding eco-labelling of textiles? • Who do the consumers consider to be the responsible actors?

4. Data • Data from France, England, Norway, Sweden and Germany. • Approximately 1000 respondents in each country. • Data collected through TNS’ web panels. • Data collection period (14.03.12 – 21.03.12).

5. General attitudes “Labelling helps me make better choices when I am shopping”. Per cent proportions. (F= 13,795; p=.000, one-way ANOVA).

6. EU flower Consumer associations with the official EU eco-label, the EU-Flower. Per cent proportions. N= 5186.

7. The Nordic Swan Norwegian and Swedish consumers’ associations with the Nordic eco-label. Per cent proportions. N= 2088

8. Differences in gobal and nationallabels • Respondents aremuch more familiarwiththenationallabelsthanwiththe global labels. • Global labelsare in general muchyoungerthannationallabels. • National labels have to a greaterextentbeenpromoted by governments. • The respondents mightalso be more familiarwiththelabelswith a broadscopethantthelabelsthatareexclusively used ontextiles. • Respondents from Norway areleastawareofthe global labels. Respondents from Germany seem to be most confident on the meaning of the labels.

9. Considerationswhenbuyingtextiles Think about the last time you were buying clothes for yourself or someone in your household. How concerned were you about the following aspects? Numbers shown are the percentage who answered that the respective interest is their first priority.

10. Allowed for environmental considerations when buying clothes and textiles for yourself? Per cent proportions. N = 5165.

11. Considerations when buying textiles. Per cent proportions. Respondents answering “don’t know” have been excluded. Total N = 5076.

12. Politicalconsumption? • Respondents who argue that environmental considerations are important, also emphasises fair trade, health and to a certain extent quality. • Respondents who emphasise design also argue that price, colour and quality are important for them when buying textiles. • Respondents from Sweden and Germany are the ones that claim to be most concerned about environment, fair trade and health.

13. Best strategies? «Which of the following strategies do you think are the best for the environment, and which are the worst?”. Numbers shown are the percentage who answered that the respective strategy is best. Per cent proportions.

14. Availability «I know where to shop if I want to buy eco-labelled clothes and textiles”. Per cent proportions. Total N = 5183.

15. Willingessto pay «I am willing to pay more for the clothes and textiles that I buy for myself if I am guaranteed that they have been produced in an environmentally friendly manner”. Per cent proportions. N = 5175.

16. Responsibility “I think that I have a responsibility as a consumer to buy products that are as environmentally friendly as possible”. N= 5160.

17. “It is primarily the government’s job to implement measures to address environmental concerns in the textile and clothing industry”. N = 5155.

18. “I trust the textile and clothing industry to take environmental considerations into account when producing their goods”. N = 5166.

19. Conclusions • General support towards eco-labels. • Varying consumer knowledge about the relevant labels for textiles – global vs. regional/national labels. • German and Swedish respondents most concerned and knowledgeable. • Women report to be more concerned than men. • Environment is only one of severalimportant considerations. • Respondents arguing that environmental considerations are important also emphasise fair trade and health

20. A majority of the respondents in all countries argue that they have very much or quite a lot responsibility to buy products that is as environmentally friendly as possible. • the respondents places a significant share of the responsibility on the governments even though they are ready to take action themselves. • A moderate share of the respondents in all countries state that they trust the textile and clothing industry to take environmental considerations into account when producing their goods. • These results indicates that there is a need for regulation, either through traditional regulations policies which stipulate mandatory products or process standards, or through new environmental policy instruments like eco-labels.

21. Thank you for your attention! • Marthe and Eivind • marthe.h.austgulen@sifo.no • eivind.sto@sifo.no