Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920
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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920. Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003). Political Influences. World War I More women in workforce Practical, comfortable clothes Shorter skirts (above ankle) Military cuts Trench Coat.

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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920

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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHIONEarly 20th Century1901 - 1920

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Political Influences

  • World War I

    • More women in workforce

      • Practical, comfortable clothes

      • Shorter skirts (above ankle)

    • Military cuts

    • Trench Coat


Technology Influences

  • Automobile

    • Development of “travel” fashions: the duster, goggles, caps with visors, veiled hats

    • History of Automobile


The duster was the typical “driving” fashion of the early 20th century

http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Edwfashpics/1905motveil.jpg


HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1920’s, 1930’s and1940’s

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Social Life of the 1920’s

  • Revolution of mores and values

  • Prohibition – lead to the “speak-easy” (later, known as the nightclub)

  • Flapper Era - “The Roaring Twenties”

    • Body more revealed

    • Short hair

    • Increased use of make-up

    • Introduction of the “trouser”


Typical 1920’s Flapper style:

Short hair

Silhouette: Straight, “tubular” dress

Shortened hemline

Lots of rouge and lipstick

http://home.millsaps.edu/mcelvrs/flapper.jpg


World War II

  • French couture (fashion) cut off during German Occupation

  • On the home front:

    • Leather shoes rationed

    • “L-85 Regulations”

      • restricted quantity of cloth to be used for civilian clothing

      • Restricted use of nylon, wool, silk, natural rubber


Let’s go to the Movies - hairstyles

Jean Harlow

Shirley Temple


Sports Influence

  • Increased participation by women

  • “Sportswear” established as separate fashion category


Art Influence of the Period

  • Art Deco

    • Architecture and interiors

    • Geometric shapes

    • Cubism

    • Notables:

      • William Van Allen

      • Pablo Picasso

      • Henry Dreyfuss


  • Surrealism (“beyond the real”)

    • Fabric prints and appointments that seem out of place

    • Notable:

      • Salvador Dali


HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONPost WWII through 1964

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Teen Market Emerges

  • Originated in Britain

  • Teddy Boys – first independent teen fashion movement

  • Significance:

    • Promoted BY and FOR young people

    • Began among lower classes (trickle-up)

    • Evidenced as lifestyle cult


Teddy Boys Fashion

Longer coats with velvet or satin collars

“Drainpipe” ties

Slicked back hair

D.A. haircuts

http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm

http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm


Teddy Girls Fashion

Velvet collars

D.A. haircuts

Turban-style headwear

Lace-up espadrilles

http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm


TV FASHION INFLUENCE


TV FASHION INFLUENCE

Lucille Ball’s pregnancy, the focus of the 2nd season of I Love Lucy, freed designers to more publicly address the need for fashionable maternity clothes

http://www.cnn.com/SHOWBIZ/9705/13/concealing.pregnancies/


Political Scene

  • John Kennedy – no hat at inauguration influenced decline of hat in men’s fashions

  • Jacqueline Kennedy

    • Pill box hat

    • A-line skirts

    • Low-slung pumps

    • Revival of empire style (from Greek)


Empire waist

Pillbox Hat

A-line styling

http://www.fiftiesweb.com/kennedy/jackie-kennedy.jpg


HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONVietnam Era1964-1974

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Mod Fashion of the 1960’s

  • Elegance

  • Edwardian flair

  • “Long” hair


“Beatlemania” - 1964

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d7/Beatlessullivansinging.jpg


Rockers Fashion of the 1960’s

  • Leather jackets

  • Motorcycles

http://www.costume.virtualmuseum.info/renegade.asp


Hippie Fashion

  • Eclectic clothing

  • Long hair

  • Thrift store purchases

  • Communal living

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML


Mod fashions of the 1960’s

  • Color

  • Eclectic

  • Mini skirt

http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm


Unisex Fashion

  • Ties

  • Pantsuits

  • Annie Hall look

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML

http://www.riotpoof.com/archives/Hall.jpg


African Fashion Influence

African caftan

dashiki

Kente cloth


Jeans rule

Levi Strauss Trademark

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML


Op ArtPop Art

http://www.ritsumei.ac.jp/~akitaoka/opart-e.html

http://www.biada.org/materies/artsdidactica/art/pintura/pop_art/warCAMP.jpg


www.sixtiescity.velnet.com/ Fash2/Fashion2.htm

http://www.p4a.com/item_images/medium/08/94/28-01.jpg


HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1975-1996

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


U.S. HistorySocial/Technology

  • Baby Boomers having children

    • “Kiddie Couture” (NY Times)


Changes in the Fashion Industry

  • GATT Treaty (General Agreements on Tariffs and Trade)

  • Apparel production shifts to 3rd world countries

  • NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement)


Major Fashion Trends

  • Retro (retrospective)

  • Revival of previous styles


1970’s power suit revisited the padded shoulders and the tailored jacket of the 1940’s

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html


http://www.davenportandco.com/formal2.htm

In the 1980’s formal wear was reminiscent of the lower waist lines of the Roaring 20’s and the puffed sleeves of the 1950’s, ushering in a revival of the “romantic” era


Major Fashion Trends

  • Yuppies and Preps

    • Power suits (Yuppies)

    • Classic tweed, tailored skirts, pants, shirts, loafers, oxfords, low pumps (Preps)


Other 1970’s Fashion Trends

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html


http://www.vintageblues.com/history8c.htm

Other 1980’s fashion trends


Major Fashion Trends

  • Punk – a London original

  • Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols is the most popular and visible icon of the 1980’s British punk movement

http://www.hotshotdigital.com/WellAlwaysRemember.2/SidVicious.htm


Major Fashion Trends

  • African American Revival

    • Inner-city youth influence

    • Rap/hip hop musicians

    • Revival of kente cloth (and imitators)

    • Baggy pants, over-sized shirts

    • Dreadlocks

    • Emergence of black fashion models, designers


Rappers NWA

dreadlocks

http://www.howtodread.com/dreds.htm

http://www.solcomhouse.com/music.htm

Influence of the African American movement through the 1990’s.

http://www.pbs.org/newshour/infocus/fashion/hiphop.html


The emergence of black models and designers reflected the importance and impact of the African American fashion movement

http://www.amadoo.com/galerie/slideshow.php?set_albumName=Kiara-Kabukuru


Consumer Changes of the Era

  • Baby Boomers older (32-50)

  • Obesity

    • Styles, stores targeted to larger consumers

    • Revolt of “heroin chic” (skinny bodies)

  • Fitness Craze

    • Leggings, high tech fabrics, micro fiber

    • Jogging suits

    • High tech athletic shoes

  • Continuation of casual wear – “Casual Fridays”


Review of Fashion Influences

  • Silhouette

  • Hemlines

  • Technology

  • Fabrics/textiles

  • Political arena

  • Current events

  • Media

  • Consumer changes


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