Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920
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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920. Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003). Political Influences. World War I More women in workforce Practical, comfortable clothes Shorter skirts (above ankle) Military cuts Trench Coat.

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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920

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Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHIONEarly 20th Century1901 - 1920

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Political influences

Political Influences

  • World War I

    • More women in workforce

      • Practical, comfortable clothes

      • Shorter skirts (above ankle)

    • Military cuts

    • Trench Coat


Technology influences

Technology Influences

  • Automobile

    • Development of “travel” fashions: the duster, goggles, caps with visors, veiled hats

    • History of Automobile


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

The duster was the typical “driving” fashion of the early 20th century

http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Edwfashpics/1905motveil.jpg


Historical influences on fashion 1920 s 1930 s and 1940 s

HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1920’s, 1930’s and1940’s

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Social life of the 1920 s

Social Life of the 1920’s

  • Revolution of mores and values

  • Prohibition – lead to the “speak-easy” (later, known as the nightclub)

  • Flapper Era - “The Roaring Twenties”

    • Body more revealed

    • Short hair

    • Increased use of make-up

    • Introduction of the “trouser”


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Typical 1920’s Flapper style:

Short hair

Silhouette: Straight, “tubular” dress

Shortened hemline

Lots of rouge and lipstick

http://home.millsaps.edu/mcelvrs/flapper.jpg


World war ii

World War II

  • French couture (fashion) cut off during German Occupation

  • On the home front:

    • Leather shoes rationed

    • “L-85 Regulations”

      • restricted quantity of cloth to be used for civilian clothing

      • Restricted use of nylon, wool, silk, natural rubber


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Let’s go to the Movies - hairstyles

Jean Harlow

Shirley Temple


Sports influence

Sports Influence

  • Increased participation by women

  • “Sportswear” established as separate fashion category


Art influence of the period

Art Influence of the Period

  • Art Deco

    • Architecture and interiors

    • Geometric shapes

    • Cubism

    • Notables:

      • William Van Allen

      • Pablo Picasso

      • Henry Dreyfuss


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

  • Surrealism (“beyond the real”)

    • Fabric prints and appointments that seem out of place

    • Notable:

      • Salvador Dali


Historical influences on fashion post wwii through 1964

HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONPost WWII through 1964

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Teen market emerges

Teen Market Emerges

  • Originated in Britain

  • Teddy Boys – first independent teen fashion movement

  • Significance:

    • Promoted BY and FOR young people

    • Began among lower classes (trickle-up)

    • Evidenced as lifestyle cult


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Teddy Boys Fashion

Longer coats with velvet or satin collars

“Drainpipe” ties

Slicked back hair

D.A. haircuts

http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm

http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm


Teddy girls fashion

Teddy Girls Fashion

Velvet collars

D.A. haircuts

Turban-style headwear

Lace-up espadrilles

http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm


Tv fashion influence

TV FASHION INFLUENCE


Tv fashion influence1

TV FASHION INFLUENCE

Lucille Ball’s pregnancy, the focus of the 2nd season of I Love Lucy, freed designers to more publicly address the need for fashionable maternity clothes

http://www.cnn.com/SHOWBIZ/9705/13/concealing.pregnancies/


Political scene

Political Scene

  • John Kennedy – no hat at inauguration influenced decline of hat in men’s fashions

  • Jacqueline Kennedy

    • Pill box hat

    • A-line skirts

    • Low-slung pumps

    • Revival of empire style (from Greek)


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Empire waist

Pillbox Hat

A-line styling

http://www.fiftiesweb.com/kennedy/jackie-kennedy.jpg


Historical influences on fashion vietnam era 1964 1974

HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONVietnam Era1964-1974

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Mod Fashion of the 1960’s

  • Elegance

  • Edwardian flair

  • “Long” hair


Beatlemania 1964

“Beatlemania” - 1964

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d7/Beatlessullivansinging.jpg


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Rockers Fashion of the 1960’s

  • Leather jackets

  • Motorcycles

http://www.costume.virtualmuseum.info/renegade.asp


Hippie fashion

Hippie Fashion

  • Eclectic clothing

  • Long hair

  • Thrift store purchases

  • Communal living

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML


Mod fashions of the 1960 s

Mod fashions of the 1960’s

  • Color

  • Eclectic

  • Mini skirt

http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm


Unisex fashion

Unisex Fashion

  • Ties

  • Pantsuits

  • Annie Hall look

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML

http://www.riotpoof.com/archives/Hall.jpg


African fashion influence

African Fashion Influence

African caftan

dashiki

Kente cloth


Jeans rule

Jeans rule

Levi Strauss Trademark

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML


Op art pop art

Op ArtPop Art

http://www.ritsumei.ac.jp/~akitaoka/opart-e.html

http://www.biada.org/materies/artsdidactica/art/pintura/pop_art/warCAMP.jpg


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

www.sixtiescity.velnet.com/ Fash2/Fashion2.htm

http://www.p4a.com/item_images/medium/08/94/28-01.jpg


Historical influences on fashion 1975 1996

HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1975-1996

Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)


U s history social technology

U.S. HistorySocial/Technology

  • Baby Boomers having children

    • “Kiddie Couture” (NY Times)


Changes in the fashion industry

Changes in the Fashion Industry

  • GATT Treaty (General Agreements on Tariffs and Trade)

  • Apparel production shifts to 3rd world countries

  • NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement)


Major fashion trends

Major Fashion Trends

  • Retro (retrospective)

  • Revival of previous styles


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

1970’s power suit revisited the padded shoulders and the tailored jacket of the 1940’s

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

http://www.davenportandco.com/formal2.htm

In the 1980’s formal wear was reminiscent of the lower waist lines of the Roaring 20’s and the puffed sleeves of the 1950’s, ushering in a revival of the “romantic” era


Major fashion trends1

Major Fashion Trends

  • Yuppies and Preps

    • Power suits (Yuppies)

    • Classic tweed, tailored skirts, pants, shirts, loafers, oxfords, low pumps (Preps)


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Other 1970’s Fashion Trends

http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

http://www.vintageblues.com/history8c.htm

Other 1980’s fashion trends


Major fashion trends2

Major Fashion Trends

  • Punk – a London original

  • Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols is the most popular and visible icon of the 1980’s British punk movement

http://www.hotshotdigital.com/WellAlwaysRemember.2/SidVicious.htm


Major fashion trends3

Major Fashion Trends

  • African American Revival

    • Inner-city youth influence

    • Rap/hip hop musicians

    • Revival of kente cloth (and imitators)

    • Baggy pants, over-sized shirts

    • Dreadlocks

    • Emergence of black fashion models, designers


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

Rappers NWA

dreadlocks

http://www.howtodread.com/dreds.htm

http://www.solcomhouse.com/music.htm

Influence of the African American movement through the 1990’s.

http://www.pbs.org/newshour/infocus/fashion/hiphop.html


Historical influences on fashion early 20 th century 1901 1920

The emergence of black models and designers reflected the importance and impact of the African American fashion movement

http://www.amadoo.com/galerie/slideshow.php?set_albumName=Kiara-Kabukuru


Consumer changes of the era

Consumer Changes of the Era

  • Baby Boomers older (32-50)

  • Obesity

    • Styles, stores targeted to larger consumers

    • Revolt of “heroin chic” (skinny bodies)

  • Fitness Craze

    • Leggings, high tech fabrics, micro fiber

    • Jogging suits

    • High tech athletic shoes

  • Continuation of casual wear – “Casual Fridays”


Review of fashion influences

Review of Fashion Influences

  • Silhouette

  • Hemlines

  • Technology

  • Fabrics/textiles

  • Political arena

  • Current events

  • Media

  • Consumer changes


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