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Esthetics in. The Middle Ages By Rebekah Elliott Mattox EST 100. 5th century through the 15th century. The Middle Ages (adjectival form: medieval or mediæval ) is a period of European history from the 5th century through the 15th century.
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Esthetics in The Middle Ages By Rebekah Elliott Mattox EST 100
5th century through the 15th century • The Middle Ages (adjectival form: medieval or mediæval) is a period of European historyfrom the 5th century through the 15th century. • The term "Middle Ages" (medium aevum) was coined in the 15th century and reflects the view that this period was a deviation from the path of classical learning, • a path supposedly reconnected by Renaissance scholarship.
Medieval = MIDDLE • The period followed the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476, and preceded the Early Modern Era. • It is the middle period in a three-period division of history: Classical, Medieval, and Modern.
Lead, chalk, or flour or bloodletting • In the Middle Ages, although its use was frowned upon by Church leaders, • many women still wore cosmetics. • A popular fad for women during the Middle Ages was to have a pale-skinned complexion, which was achieved • through either applying pastes of • lead, chalk, or flour or bloodletting.
Bloodletting • Bloodletting (or blood-letting) • is the withdrawal of often considerable quantities of blood • from a patient • to cure • or • prevent • Illness.
Ancient practice Ancient Greek painting on a vase, Showing a physician Bleeding a patient
Crusaders returned from the Middle Eastwith cosmetics and perfumes. • Cosmetics were in wide use in the Roman Empire, • but they disappeared from much of Europe with the fall of the Roman Empire (5th century AD) • and did not reappear until the Middle Ages, when Crusaders returned • from the Middle East • With • cosmetics • And • perfumes.
beauty products, perfumes, and hair dyes • In the Middle Ages crusaders returned to Europe from the Middle East with beauty products, perfumes, and hair dyes. • The use of cosmetics flourished in Europe again during the Renaissance. • A pale look, achieved with heavy powders, became a longtime status symbol of the upper classes. • Italy and France became the chief centers of cosmetics production.
colored makeup • Women wore • colored makeup • on • their cheeks & lips • but not on their eyes.
Cosmetics in the Middle Ages • It is a myth that during the Middle Ages people were dirty and smelly. • Most people cared about their appearance and tried to keep themselves clean. • In the Middle Ages their bathhouses in many towns were people could pay to have a bath.
grooming • In Northern Europe in the Middle Ages, people took sweat baths. • In the Middle Ages people used combs and tweezers. • They also used toothpicks and mouthwashes. • In the Middle Ages women curled their hair with hot tongs. • They also dyed their hair. • They used vegetable dyes to redden their faces and color their nails. • It was fashionable for women to pluck their eyebrows.
bathing • Bathing was • not • a DAILY ritual, • But • those who could afford them • used fragrant oils.
16th century • In the later 16th century white lead was revived as a way of getting a pale complexion. • Poor women had to work outdoors so they were suntanned. • Rich women wanted to show they were NOT working class (no suntans)!
Pale/blond/red/black • Pale skin was a sign of wealth so it was desirable. • Furthermore, at that time, blonde hair was also popular, and many women died their hair. • In the 17th century fashionable women stuck black patches onto their faces. • Sometimes they were in the shape of stars or crescent moons.
OCHRES Women also used red ochre on their cheeks. Ochres are among the earliest pigments used by mankind, derived from naturally tinted clay containing mineral oxides.
Medieval Women's Clothing http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-womens-clothing.htm • Middle Ages clothing and fashion, including the Medieval Women's Clothing, • like everything else was dictated • by the Pyramid of Power • which was the Middle Ages Feudal System. • Medieval clothes • provided information • about the status • of the person • wearing them.
CLOTHING 900 - 1000 • The Medieval women's clothes were at times so tight as to display all the elegance of their form. • Other clothing were made so high as completely to cover the neck. • A long tunic reaching to the heels, fastened in at the waist and closed at the wrists . • A tunic might be worn with or without sleeves. • Their clothing consisted of two tunics, and of a veil or drapery, which was thrown over the head and fell down before and behind, thus entirely surrounding the neck. • Queens, princesses, and ladies of the nobility wore in addition • a long cloak lined with ermine.
ermine • Many skins would be sewn together to make a luxurious garment, • producing a • pattern of • small black spots • on a white field.
CLOTHING 1000 - 1100 • The typical Medieval Women's Clothing during the period of 1000 - 1100 featured:The female clothing of the time consisted of two tunics, the under one being longer but less capacious than the other • The sleeves of the clothing came down tight to the wrists, and being plaited in many folds, whilst those of the latter open out, and only reach to the elbow • The lower part, the neck, and the borders of the sleeves are trimmed with ornamented bands. • The waist was encircled by a girdle just above the hips • A long veil, finely worked, and fastened on the head, covered the shoulders and hung down to the feet, completely hiding the hair, so that long plaits falling in front were evidently not then in fashion • The under dress was made of various colors, whereas the gowns or outer tunics were often white.
Clothing 1100-1200 • The typical Medieval Women's Clothing during the period of 1100 - 1200 featured: • A cap was worn made of linen with lappets hanging down over the shoulders • A robe was fastened round the waist which had long bands attached to the sleeves near the wrists • The tight gown, fastened at the collar by a round buckle, and two bands of stuff forming a kind of necklace • She also used the long cloak with the clothing and closed shoes, which had then begun to be made pointed. Coloured bands were attached to their shoes, which were tied round the ankles like those of sandals, and showed the shape of the foot. • Women, in addition to their head-dress, often wore a broad band, which was tied under the chin, and gave the appearance of a kind of frame for the face • The surcoat was at first a garment worn only by females, but it was soon adopted by both sexes • The surcoat was originally a large wrapper with sleeves, and was thrown over the upper part of the robe and clothing • The surcoat was then made without sleeves • The under garment, which was made of more costly material, might be seen
Clothing 1200-1300 • The typical Medieval Women's Clothing during the period of 1200 - 1300 featured:Luxury was at its height when gold and silver, pearls and precious stones were lavished on clothes • Massive belts of gold were also worn • Gowns with tight bodices were generally adopted • The women wore over them a tight jacket, reaching to a little below the hips, often trimmed with fur when the gown was richly ornamented, and itself richly ornamented when the gown was plain • They also began to plait the hair, which fell down by the side of the face to the neck, and they profusely decorated it with pearls or gold or silver ornaments • A pointed cap, on the turned-up borders of which the hair clustered in thick curls on each side of the face • On the chest was a frill turned down in two points • The gown, fastened in front by a row of buttons, had long and tight sleeves, with a small slit at the wrists closed by a button • A second robe in the shape of a cloak might also be worn, the sleeves of which were widely slit in the middle • Clothing was embroidered and richly decorated • The shoes were long and pointed
Clothing 1300-1400 • The typical Medieval Women's Clothing during the period of 1300 - 1400 featured:Women's clothing, the coats and surcoats, often trailed on the ground • Hats consisted of a frame of wirework covered over with stuff which was embroidered or trimmed with lace • The hair was kept back by a silken net, or crépine, attached either to a frontlet, or to a metal fillet, or confined by a veil of very light material • Whilst male attire had extended to the utmost limit of extravagance, women's clothing was dignified with elegant simplicity • The coat, or under garment, which formerly only showed itself through awkwardly-contrived openings, now displayed the harmonious outlines of the figure to advantage, thanks to the large openings in the overcoat • The surcoat, kept back on the shoulders by two narrow bands, became a sort of wide and trailing skirt, which majestically draped the lower part of the body • The external corset was invented, which was a kind of short mantle, falling down before and behind without concealing any of the fine outlines of the bust. This new article of women's clothing was kept in its place in the middle of the chest by a steel busk encased in some rich lace-work, was generally made of fur in winter and of silk in summer • The fashion of wearing false hair continued in great favour • Nets were again adopted, and head-dresses which, whilst permitting a display of masses of false hair, hid the horsehair or padded puffs
Clothing 1400-1500 • The typical Medieval Women's Clothing during the period of 1400 - 1500 featured:The women wore long trains to their dresses • These trains were shortened • Sleeves became long, hanging and embroidered or fringed • Women's dresses on becoming shorter were trimmed in the most costly manner • The head-dresses of women consisted of very large rolls, surmounted by a high conical bonnet • They began to uncover the neck and to wear necklaces • Women's dress was described as follows: "In this year (1487)," says the chronicler Monstrelet, "women ceased to wear trains, substituting for them trimmings of grebe, of martens' fur, of velvet, and of other materials, of about eighteen inches in width; some wore on the top of their heads rolls nearly two feet high, shaped like a round cap, which closed in above. Others wore them lower, with veils hanging from the top, and reaching down to the feet. Others wore unusually wide silk bands, with very elegant buckles equally wide, and magnificent gold necklaces of various patterns" • The principal characteristic of female dress at the time was its fullness • Catherine de Medici introduced the fashion of ruffs and small collars • Women's dresses which were tight at the waist began to be made very full round the hips, by means of large padded rolls and by an arrangement of padded whalebone and steel, which subsequently became paniers
To see more clothing • GO TO • http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-womens-clothing.htm • ANOTHER GOOD WEB SITE IS • http://www.teacheroz.com/fashionhistory.htm • FOR FASHION, FOOD, ENTERTAINMENT & MORE, GO TO • http://www.teacheroz.com/Middle_Ages.htm
Working Women in the Middle Ageshttp://mahan.wonkwang.ac.kr/link/med/feminism/work/main.html • Following is from the web page listed above: • This poem illustrates • that women • were and are • still "worthy" • in every sense of the word.
"Women are Worthy" • I am as swift as any roe To praise women where'er I go. To dispraise women it is a shame, For a woman was your dame: Our Blessed Lady bears the name Of all women where'er they go. • A woman is a worthy thing: They do the wash and do the wring; "Lullay, lullay," she does you sing, And yet she has but care and woe. • A woman is a worthy wight: She serves a man both day and night; Thereto she puts all her might, And yet she has but care and woe. (Taken from: Goldberg, 1995, p. 183)
History of Cosmetics http://www.cyonic-nemeton.com/Cosmetics.html http://www.localhistories.org/cosmetics.html http://www.articlesbase.com/cosmetics-articles/cosmetics-through-the-ages-126077.html
Making Memories • If you’d like to share your PowerPoint, please email to • RebekahMattox@hotmail.com • I’ll post your PowerPoints at • www.tutorpal.com • Becks Back Porch • Talk to Becks. • As soon as I can, I’ll build a Public Board called WGTC; thrn, I’ll re-post our PowerPoint's there.
