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Going More Local With Global Governance Lessons from Ethical Branding in Sri Lanka

Going More Local With Global Governance Lessons from Ethical Branding in Sri Lanka. Annelies Goger University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill annelies@unc.edu. Central Questions Why did an industry-led ethical branding initiative emerge in the Sri Lankan apparel sector?

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Going More Local With Global Governance Lessons from Ethical Branding in Sri Lanka

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  1. Going More Local With Global GovernanceLessons from Ethical Branding in Sri Lanka Annelies GogerUniversity of North Carolina at Chapel Hillannelies@unc.edu Central Questions Why did an industry-led ethical branding initiative emerge in the Sri Lankan apparel sector? 2) How can it inform ethical sourcing debates about moving beyond monitoring? 3) How can it be strengthened and enhanced?

  2. Context Colonialism Conflict Social Change Buddhist Norms

  3. Garments Without Guilt • Certification • Company-specific projects • Marketing to buyers/retailers • Goals: • Added value from ethical niche • Bring SMEs up to a baseline standard

  4. Production Executive Women Go Beyond MAS Holdings AQL Team Member Team Leader Multi-Skill Member Team Member

  5. Care for Water: Care for Women Brandix Source: Business Today, 2011.

  6. Other CSR Initiatives

  7. Contributions Garments Without Guilt

  8. Challenges Garments Without Guilt

  9. Key Findings • Tight labour markets and local/national ethical concernsabout women have driven the industry to adopt more ethical practices in the first place • What it means to be “ethical”and to be a “good employer”: political tension between empowering young women and reproducing patriarchal relations 3.Market failures exist in global value chains: incentives for ethical innovations such as price premiums or more orders have not materialized Going More Local With Global Governance Annelies Goger, UNC Chapel Hill annelies@unc.edu

  10. Recommendations • Research and international organizations: more focus on how labor market dynamics and local norms shape firm practices • Consumer NGOs: In addition to name/shame, recognize and engage more with better performers • Industry, Government, NGOs: Living conditions, wages, gender relations, and household dynamics shape the possibilities for credibility in ethical trade • Buyers, retailers, and international organizations: address market failures and unethical buying practices in global value chains to incentivize and reward high-road paths Going More Local With Global Governance Annelies Goger, UNC Chapel Hill annelies@unc.edu

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