Shaving

1. Shaving

2. Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 2,6,8 and 9 • Close Shave: The procedure of shaving facial hair against the grain during the second-time-over • Cutting Stroke: The correct angle of cutting the beard with a straight razor • Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 6 of the 14 shaving areas 1,3,4,7,11, and 12 • Neck Shave: Shaving the areas behind the ears, down the sides of the neck and at the back neckline

3. Once-over Shave: Single lather shave in which the shaving strokes are made across the grain of hair • Reverse Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used for making the left sideburn outline and shaving the left side behind the ear during a neck shave • Reverse Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stoke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 5, 10, 13, and 14 • Second-time-over-shave: A close shave • Styptic powder: alum powder used to stop bleeding of nicks and cuts

4. History • Shaving was introduced by Macedonians during the middle ages • Barbers were know as Barber surgeons • Symbol of barber pole – Red = blood, blue = veins, white = bandages & the bottom symbolizes the basin used to catch the blood during a process known as bloodletting • Barber is derived from the Latin word “barba” meaning beard

5. Implements • Implements should always be of superior quality, the barber is no better than the tools he or she uses • Principle implements used: razor, shears, clippers • Accessories: hones, strops, combs, brushes and latherizers

6. Parts of the straight razor

7. Balance of the Razor • Refers to the relative weight of the blade as it relates to the handle • Proper balance – the weight of the blade should = that of the handle

8. Temper • Refers to the heat treatment given by the manufacturer which gives the blade a certain degree of hardness • Hard – hold an edge longest but is very difficult to sharpen • Soft – easy to sharpen but does not hold edge very long • Medium – most popular choice

9. size • Refers to the length and width of the blade • The width is measured in eights or sixteenths of an inch (most generally in 8ths) • The 5/8 and 9/16 are the two most common sizes

10. Style • The style indicates its shape and design • The modern razor has a straight, parallel back and edge, a round heal, a square point, a flat or slightly round handle • To prevent scratching the skin the barber usually rounds off the square point, by drawing the point of the razor along the edge of the hone

11. Grind • Refers to the shape of the blade after it is ground by the mfr. • 2 types = • Concave – which comes in full, ½ and ½ concave • Wedge – good for coarse beards, hard to sharpen • Concave is most preferred

12. Finish • The condition of the surface • 3 types= • Plain steel • Polished steel • Metal plated (nickel or silver) • Most popular is polished steel (crocus) lasts longest & doesn’t rust

13. Hones • A hone is a rectangular block of abrasive material used to sharpen a razor 3 types of hones: • Natural hone- derived from rock deposits. They must be used wet (water or lather) they are called “water hones” they put a very sharp edge on the razor and are usually brownish in color • Synthetic hone – man made product; there are 2 types “Swatty” & “Carborundum”. They cut faster than water hones, can be used wet or dry. They give a fine cutting edge quickly • Combination hones – 2 sided; natural hone is glued to a block of synthetic. The synthetic would be used first & the natural last

14. Care of hones • Always clean before and after use with 70% alcohol • After several uses the steel particles must be cleaned from the surface using pumice stone and water

15. How to hone • A razor is honed on the block using a figure 8 motion

16. Strops/ stropping • A strop is intended to bring the razor to a smooth wetted edge. It is used to finish the surface of the blade after it has been sharpened • Stropping is the art of smoothing and shaping the razor’s edge into a keen cutting implement • There are 5 types of strops

17. 1.French or German Strop • Usually a combination strop w/ leather on 1 side and a linen on the other

18. 2. Canvas • Made with a high quality silk or linen woven into a fine or coarse texture • Fine texture linen is most preferred for putting a lasting edge on the razor

19. 3.Cowhide • Aka – Russian • Usually made of cowhide using the Russian method of tanning • Considered one of the best in use today

20. 4.horeshide • 2 types • A- ordinary horsehide – medium grade and has a fine smooth grain – not recommended for professional use • B- Russian shell – high quality leather from the rump of the animal; this is considered the best and does not require breaking in

21. Imitation leather • Has not proven satisfactory – avoid this strop

22. Care of strop • Must not be folded or bent • Should be hung • They can be treated and cleaned with strop dressing • Accumulated grit should first be removed by rubbing with lather • After later, rub the strop dressing into the strop

23. Use of strop • First stroke: • Start stroke at the top edge of the strop closest to the chair • Draw the razor perfectly flat with back leading straight over the surface of the strop • Bear just heavily enough on the strop to feel the razor draw • Speed will come with practice

24. Use of strop cont’d • Second stroke: • turn the razor on the back of the blade by rolling it in the fingers without turning the hand • Use a long diagonal stroke with even pressure from the heel to the point • Draw the razor away from you towards the chair

25. Testing of the razor • On a moistened tip of thumb nail draw the razor • A dull edge produces a drawing feeling • A properly edged razor that is keen will tend to stick and not slide along • If the edge produces a disagreeable sound it is too course and requires extra stropping • A properly edged razor should dig into the nail with a smooth and steady grip

26. The shave • Is classified into 3 sections: • The preparation • The procedure • The finish

27. Preparation • Sanitize hands • Drape Client

28. procedure • Apply Hot Towel • Open and sanitize razor • Apply shaving cream using cushion of fingertips in a rotary movement • Shave the 14 areas using the correct strokes • Hot/cold towel • Apply astringent • Apply talc using mitt application

29. finish • Remove towels and drape • Clean up work station • Comb clients hair

30. Lathering – is a very important step prior to shaving because: • Cleans the face by dislodging dirt • Softens the hair and holds it in an erect position • Affords a smooth, flat surface for the razor to glide over • Rub lather briskly into bearded area using rotary movements with the cushion of the fingertips (one hand only)

31. Steaming • Softens the cuticle of the hair • Provides lubrication by stimulating the action of the oil glands • Opens the follicle to allow for a closer shave • Sooths and relaxes the client • Never apply a steam towel (or shave) if face is sensitive, irritated, chapped, blistered or covered with acne

32. 4 Standard shaving positions & strokes Freehand – face your client, stroke toward yourself #1,3,4,8,11,12 Backhand – stroke away from yourself #2,6,7,9 Reverse Freehand – stand behind client & stroke toward yourself #5,10,13,14 (Reverse Backhand – used only on the left side back of neck )

33. Ingrown Hairs • Hairs that have grown beneath the skin causing a lump in which pus forms. Usually caused by very close shaving or the rubbing of a shirt collar • Curly hair people are more prone to ingrown hairs

34. How to make a powder mitt