Chapter 7

1. Chapter 7 Designing Fashion The Design Process Making Fashion

2. Chapter Objectives • Describe the three divisions of apparel manufacturers • Explain the roles and types of fashion designers. • Identify the elements and principles of design used to create fashion. • Identify the steps in the garment production process. • Compare haute-couture production and prêt-à-porter production. • Explain how women’s and men’s apparel are sized.

3. All divisions work together to make it happen! Apparel Company Divisions The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are: DesignDivision: Buy Fabrics/ Design a line ProductionDivision: Produce the garments SalesDivision: Sell completed apparel to stores Section 7.1

4. The Role of the Fashion Designer • Designers must anticipate what their target market will buy • Select the appropriate fabrics that will sell. • Produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay. • Create original designs and choose appropriate fabrics • Supervise assistants who carry out their ideas. • May also spend time on administrative tasks. Section 7.1

5. The Role of the Fashion Designer Types of Designers Self-EmployedDesigners Design-HouseDesigners Designers forManufacturers Section 7.1 5

6. The elements must be chosen according to principles. The elements must be combined effectively to achieve harmony. Elements of Design The elements of design are: • Color • Silhouette • Line • Fabric • Texture Section 7.1

7. Elements of Design Research has shown that customers respond to color before any other design element. Texture is determined by fibers, yarns, and the method of construction. colora visual characteristic, representing hue and tone, that is one of the most important elements of fashion design texturea characteristic of the surface of a material in terms of how it feels and looks Section 7.1

8. Elements of Design The next considerations are the silhouette and line. silhouettethe overall form, or outline of a garment linea distinct elongated mark that directs the eye movement when viewing the garment Section 7.1

9. Principles of Design Besides using the basic elements of design, a skilled designer also applies the principles of design. principles of designthe standards for creating good design that include proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony Section 7.1

10. Principles of Design Proportion The relationship of all the spaces of the garment. Balance The relationship (either symmetrical or asymmetrical) of one side of the garment to the other. Rhythm A sense of movement through the repetition of lines, shapes, and colors. Emphasis The center of interest, or the focal point, of the garment. Harmony Harmony is achieved when the designer has applied all of the principles of design to a fashion design. Section 7.1 10

11. Design Concept and Samples Sales Research Analysis Purchase Orders Production Steps of the Design Process Design Process and Schedules: Marketing period is 6 months before customers will purchase… Designers have it ready 2-3 months before that! Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Basic Decisions Step 4 Step 5 Step 6 Design Presentation Section 7.1 11

12. Design Process and Schedules Designers use computer-aided design (CAD) systems as a tool, like a paintbrush, to produce creations. computer-aided design (CAD)computer programs that perform many design functions to create design CAD allows for quick production through technology and machines. Section 7.1

13. The Garment Production Process The fashion industry uses computer-aided design (CAD) systems to complete patternmaking. patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item Computer systems also facilitate grading. grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size Section 7.2

14. The wholesale price includes: • Cost of labor • Materials • Markup The Garment Production Process Costing is the process of calculating the production costs of a garment in order to set a wholesale price. wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers Section 7.2

15. The Garment Production Process Garments are mass-produced and cut and sewn in an assembly-line manner. computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process Many manufacturers use computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). Section 7.2

16. The Garment Production Process After a garment is constructed: • An inspector checks it for flaws. • Hangtags attached to garments provide information such as fabric content and care instructions. • Labels attached to garments identify the name of the manufacturer or the line of clothing. Section 7.2

17. The Garment Production Process Haute couture is the French term for high-fashion custommade designer clothing. prêt-á-porterFrench term for designer ready-to-wear clothing Prêt-á porter is less expensive than haute couture, but it generates more income for couture fashion houses. Section 7.2

18. Size Classifications sizing system a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development Vanity sizinggives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size. The different groupings of a sizing system in retail stores are known as size classifications. Standard measurements vary from one manufacturer to another… Section 7.2

19. Women’s Size System- based on shape of figure Section 7.2 19

20. Size Classifications-Men’s sizing • More standard than women’s sizing. • Men’s slacks, dress shirts, and tailored apparel are sized with a dual-sizing system, or a combination of two measurements. • Example: pants – 30/32 (waist/length) dress shirts – 16, 34/35 (neck/sleeve length) • Most men’s sports shirts and sweaters are offered in small, medium, large, and extra large. Section 7.2

21. 7.1 What are some roles of the fashion designer? Anticipate what target market will buy, produce finished products at prices customers will pay, create original designs, select appropriate fabrics, supervise What are the five basic principles of design? Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony What are the three divisions of apparel manufacturing and what do they accomplish? Design Division: Buy fabrics, design a line Production Division: Produce the garments Sales Division: Sell completed apparel to stores 1. 2. 3. Section 7.1

22. 7.2 What are the six key steps in the apparel production process? Basic decisions -> Design concepts and samples -> Sales research analysis -> Design presentation -> Purchase orders -> Production What are the production differences between haute couture and prêt-á-porter? Haute-couture garments are more precise, custom-made by hand (hand sewn) to fit the customer. Pret-a-Porter garments require very little hand sewing and are mass produced in ready-to-wear styles and sizes (not custom) What is the difference between women’s and men’s sizing? Women’s clothing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more standard and uses a dual sizing system based on measurement numbers. 4. 5. 6. Section 7.2