Chapter 17 (2012 Edition) Hairstyling

1. Chapter 17 (2012 Edition) Hairstyling

2. Hairstyling or dressing the hair • ~ direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times • Ready-to-wear clothing • ~ wash-and-wear hair www.channelishop.com/Images/Products/Persona_...

3. educate clients in • ~ home care maintenance • ~ styling options for their hair • Clients will judge your • work by the finished • style images.teamsugar.com/.../49_2007/HairStylist.jpg

4. Think retro-out of style today may be back tomorrow www.4hairstyles.com/short/retro/pics/43.jpg dorishinyblog.com/.../uploads/2009/06/hair.jpg www.hairstylestalk.com/images/retro-hairstyle...

5. Client Consultation • First step in the hairstyling process • Take into consideration • ~ face shape • ~ hair type • ~ lifestyle miniquehair.com/CONSULTATION.jpg

6. Be a creative problem solver • If you create a style that is flattering and easy to manage, clients will be most loyal www.affinityspamedica.com/image/33843793_scal www.mhxbeautybar.com/images/Picture-16.jpg

7. Wet Hairstyling Basics • Tools: • Combs • Brushes • Rollers • Clips • Pins • Clamps www.muimports.com.au/images/Butterfly_Clips.jpg img137.imageshack.us/img137/8393/tools1jy0.jpg www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/4...

8. Finger Waving • Shaping and directing the hair into an “S” pattern through the use of fingers, combs, and waving lotion • Teaches you the technique of moving and directing the hair www.blacknews.com/directory/images/black_hair...

9. farm4.static.flickr.com/3229/2340455206_0e30a... 1.bp.blogspot.com/.../kGMZ48ouBpg/s400/GW.bmp

10. Add to side bar: • Finger waves develop: • Dexterity (finger) • Finger strength • Coordination http://images.google.com/imgres?q=classic+style+looking+hair/+makeup&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=596&tbm=isch&tbnid=VesgkxjPd3UbwM:&imgrefurl=http://makeupbeat.com/blog/2007/12/30/go-for-the-gold/&docid=FPpuF6MkstRqHM&imgurl=http://makeupbeat.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/1182722461_e_metallic_gold_eye_s1-1.jpg&w=640&h=406&ei=coGtTtCXO8Lq0gGXt7GGDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=317&sig=115570578519706265263&page=11&tbnh=109&tbnw=148&start=214&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:9,s:214&tx=89&ty=47

11. Finger Waving Lotion • Gel that makes hair pliable, keeps hair in place • Made from karaya gum • Found in trees in Africa and India • Good lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when it dries

12. Pin Curls • Parts of a Curl • Base-closest to the scalp • Stem-between the base and the first arc • ~ gives direction and movement • Circle-forms a complete circle • ~ size of circle determines the width of the wave and its strength pre2005.flexiblelearning.net.au/toolbox/demos...

13. www.hairboutique.com/.../CRW_8639_SBS1_250h.jpg www.hairboutique.com/tips/images/IMG_8645_rem... www.lynnechapman.com/images/LaurasUpdo12.jpg www.hairstyleschat.com/images/Bridal-Updos.jpg

14. Mobility of a Curl • Stem determines the mobility or movement • No-stem curl: • -placed directly on the base • -produces tight, firm, long-lasting curl • -minimum mobility • Name the pin curls that have a no-stem curl.

15. Half-stem curl: -medium movement -half off base Name the pin curl with this stem. Full-stem curl: -greatest mobility -off the base -strong, definite direction (waves, not curl) www.ritasue.co.nz/catalog/images/step9.JPG

16. Shaping for Pin Curl Placements ~ section is molded in a circular movement ***Ex. Maypoles Open and Closed Center Curls Open-smooth waves and uniform curls Closed-smaller, fine hair, fluffy curl

17. Curl and Stem Direction • Terms: • Clockwise • Counterclockwise

18. Base Pin Curls or Foundations Rectangular base: -recommended on front hairline -smooth upsweep effect Name the pin curl with this base, then add to side bar. i.ehow.com/.../4830569/135052-main_Full.jpg

19. Triangular base: -use at front or facial hairline -prevents breaks and splits Arc base: -half-moon -gives good direction -used at hairline Which pin curl uses each of these bases? Add to side bar.

20. farm4.static.flickr.com/3560/3576135230_2633f... www.hji.co.uk/.../medium/1950-smooth-blonde.jpg

21. Square base: • -curly styles without volume • List the two pin curls that have this base. • Add to side bar. • Add to side bar: • Pin at the base through ½ of • the circle • Incorrect-pinning through • whole circle www.ritasue.co.nz/catalog/images/step9.JPG

22. Pin Curl Techniques • Ribboning-forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension • ***smoothes the strand/more even results • Carved or Sculptured Curls • Formed without lifting the hair • ***used to finish the hairline in fingerwaves

23. Designing with Pin Curls Barrel Curls -large center openings -rectangular base -similar to roller/not as much tension ***will not last as long as rollers Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade or Stand-Up Curls -create height

24. womenshair.about.com bodycelebrity.blogspot.com modelshairs.blogspot.com

25. Roller Curls • Advantages over pin curls: • Much faster • Wrapped with tension/stronger, longer-lasting set • Variety of sizes • Broadens creative possibilities

26. Parts of a Roller Curl Base (section) -same length and width as the roller Stem -first turn -direction and mobility Curl or Circle -determines size of wave or curl Fig. 17-29 Fig. 17-30

27. Determine the good and bad qualities of these two roller sets. dominicanhaircare.com/.../dreamstime_236870.jpg images22.fotki.com/.../6114187/ponyset2-vi.jpg

28. Choosing Your Roller Size • One complete turn creates a C-shaped curl • One-and-a-half turns create a wave • Two-and-a-half turns create curls

29. Roller Placement On base-full volume -sits directly on its base -over-direct (135 degree angle) Half base-medium volume -sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base -hold strand straight up (90 degree angle)

30. Off base-least volume • - sits completely off base • * under-direct • - 45degrees down from base • Roller Direction • Placement of rollers follows the movement of the finished style • ***how you set is how you comb out

31. Hot Rollers • Used on dry hair • Stay in for 10-20 minutes • Less strong of curl than wet set (rollers) • Stronger and longer-lasting • than curling iron setssalon.ca/images/isinis%20hot%20rollers.jpg www.goodhousekeeping.com/cm/goodhousekeeping/... www.style-hair-magazine.com/image-files/bendy...

32. www.latest-hairstyles.com/images/gisele-long-... www.essence.com/.../holiday-hair-07.jpg www.marieclaire.com/cm/marieclaire/images/O5/...

33. Velcro Rollers • Add to side bar: • Not legal in Pa beauty schools • Salons must remove hair and disinfect between each client • Used on dry hair • Wet hair will snag and pull the hair • Leave in for 5-10 minutes

34. cdn-viper.demandvideo.com/media/1017132B-41BD... www.sugarscape.com/userfiles/mirander.jpg

35. Fabric grips hair and stays in place • Mist hair with hairspray • Can place client under hooded dryer for 5-10 minutes • ***Review page 96 for disinfection procedure

36. Comb-out Techniques • Good set leads to good comb out • If you follow well-structured system of combing out hairstyles, you will save time and get more even results (on test-organized order) • *** after the tease • ~ start at bottom • ~ place hair as you go up to the crown • ~ bring in the sides • ~ top is last

37. Back-combing and Back-brushing Techniques Back-combing -called teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing -mats hair at the scalp -forms a cushion www.wikihow.com/.../180px-Tease_hair_296.jpg

38. Back-brushing -called ruffing -soft cushion Both: -used for up-dos -adds a little height -after hot rollers or blow-drying ***read techniques list www.adiscountbeauty.com/media/SPORNETTEiilwon... Glamour.com

39. Hair Wrapping • Used to keep curly hair smooth and straight • Very little volume-hair at scalp is not lifted • Done on wet or dry hair http:/www.ehow.com/video 4409310 summary-hair-care... Read “Here’s a Tip” and “Caution”

40. Blow-dry Styling • Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation • Women desire hairstyles that require the least time and effort to maintain • Guide and educate the client through this process • The client’s first impression of the haircut you have done will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry

41. toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net.au/demosites/s... www.ourvanity.com/images/drying-hair.jpg images.photos.com/thw/thw14/PH/OLA/36234743.t... www.condenast.co.uk/.../g_j/headmasters_320.jpg

42. Add to side bar: • Warm air “molds” the hair (into the desired shape) • Cool air “sets” and removes frizz (smoothes and looks like a curling was used) • Demonstration on mannequin

43. Tools for Blow-dry Styling Blow-dryer-an electrical appliance designed for drying and styling the hair Concentrator-is a directional feature -creates a stream of air Diffuser-air flows more softly -keeps textural definition www.health-store.com/.../t3_blowdryer_7414.jpg static.oprah.com/images/omag/beauty/200903-om...

44. Not on test: good to know-clients will ask. ***Ionic blow dryers and curling irons infuse the hair with beneficial negative ions that seal the hair cuticle, eliminate frizz, and create shiny, silky, healthy hair. ***Ionic blow dryers dry hair quicker than regular blow dryers by breaking up the water in the hair into smaller particles which can evaporate faster.

45. Keep blow-dryer perfectly clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair • Air intake at back of blow-dryer must be clear at all times • If intake is covered, dryer element will burn out prematurely brigknowsbest.com/.../uploads/2009/01/dryer.jpg

46. Combs and Picks • Teeth closely spaced remove definition from curl • Creates a smooth surface • Widely spread teeth give a more textured surface • Comb with pick on the one end lift the hair away from the head ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21isi%2B2vcTL.... styletips101.com/.../2009/03/rattail-comb.jpg ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31WT9XEGCXL._S... www.apparentlyfemale.com/.../Wig_pick.jpg

47. Brushes • Classic styling brush • Half-round, rubber based • Seven or nine rows • Nylon bristles • Heat-resistant/antistatic • Little volume • Less suitable for smooth classic looks https:/.../admin/images/productimages/j1699.jpg

48. Paddle brush • Large, flat base • For mid-to longer-length hair • Keeps hair from snagging styletips101.com/.../2008/10/paddle-brush.jpg

49. Grooming brushes • Mixture of boar and nylon bristles • Boar bristles-distribute the scalp oils/gives shine • Nylon bristles-stimulate circulation of blood to the scalp • Adds polish and shine to fine to medium hair • Great for combing out updos www.marliesmoeller.com/media/images/produkte/... www.jemarpet.com/images/brushsc24.jpg

50. Vent brushes • Speeds up blow-dry process • Ideal for fine hair • And adding lift at the scalp www.dailyhairtips.com/.../10/vent-brush2.bmp www.cachebeauty.com/images/zyrca/zyrca_9540.jpg