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Traditional Climbing

Traditional Climbing. Stoppers. When and How to Place a Stopper. When Placing: Set the stopper in the crack Yank downward setting it position Clip in a sling so when the rope moves it does not disturb the setting. There are no moving parts on a stopper, so they are placed when:

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Traditional Climbing

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  1. TraditionalClimbing

  2. Stoppers

  3. When and How to Place a Stopper When Placing: • Set the stopper in the crack • Yank downward setting it position • Clip in a sling so when the rope moves it does not disturb the setting There are no moving parts on a stopper, so they are placed when: • The crack is flared upward • The crack is flared inward

  4. Camalot

  5. When to place a Camalot Camalots are bigger than stoppers and have moving parts so they are placed: • Horizontal cracks • Too big for a stopper • Straight cracks

  6. How to Place a Camalot When placing camalots: • First find the right size for the crack • Pull the trigger down pulling in the lobes • Place in crack and release trigger letting lobes extend out • Pull out making sure the cam is set and will not slip out if you fall on it Lobes should not be fully extended or all the way tightened

  7. Anchors

  8. Setting Up an Anchor To set up an anchor: • Put in 3 or 4 pieces to the wall • Equalize them with slings so that each one holds same percentage of weight • Put rope through anchor and belay from the top

  9. Anchor Angles The closer the pieces (camalots or stoppers) are together the less of an angle which puts less force on each piece

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