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What Does Shampoo Do?. PURPOSE: Clean Hair, Clean Scalp, Clear Hair Pores, Remove Hair Shaft Deposits/Build-up Leave Clean Hair Shiny Healthy Looking. WHY NOT USE CP SOAP ON HAIR? PH is normally too high and lifts hair cuticle, leaving it open.

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What does shampoo do
What Does Shampoo Do?

PURPOSE:Clean Hair, Clean Scalp, Clear Hair Pores, Remove Hair Shaft Deposits/Build-upLeave Clean Hair Shiny Healthy Looking

  • WHY NOT USE CP SOAP ON HAIR?

  • PH is normally too high and lifts hair cuticle, leaving it open.

  • CP Soap reacts with certain minerals in most water. The reaction actually causes the two to bind together, causing an insoluble film, left on the hair shaft.


Important facts
Important Facts:

  • Hair is Dead so while there are many promises

    in hair products the purpose is to clean.

  • If you want to have healthy hair have a healthy

    body. Little can be done to “repair” once it grows out.

  • One of the worst ingredients for your hair in retail

    shampoos are the sulfates. These detergents are cheap

    and have very good cleaning properties. Additionally,

    They are excellent foaming agents. Two important

    qualities in a shampoo, cleansing and lather.


Alternative to sulfates
Alternative to Sulfates?

  • Sulfonates

    The safety and mildness of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate

    lies in the absence of a sulfate ion head, which is

    commonly found in many other surfactants. The sulfate

    ion, which originates in sulfuric acid, is replaced with the

    more stable sulfonated ester. This sulfate free surfactant

    is made with lauryl alcohol, derived from palm kernel oil,

    which is then condensed with a sulfonated form of acetic

    acid, or vinegar. It is this charged sulfonated acetate

    group which gives this molecule its mild surfactant

    properties. ~ Essential University


What exactly is shampoo
What Exactly is Shampoo?

INGREDIENTS:

  • Water

  • Detergents or Surfactants

  • Chelating Agents & Emulsifiers

  • Special Cosmetic Ingredients

  • Preservatives

  • Conditioning Agents


Ingredients necessary for purpose
Ingredients Necessary for Purpose?

  • Water

    Product Enhancement

  • Detergents or Surfactants

    Cleans Hair, Clean Scalp, Clears Hair Pores

  • Chelating Agents, Emulsifiers & Buffering Agents

    Remove Hair Shaft Deposits/Build Up and Enables Detergents/

    Surfactants to be Effective. Also Helps Maintain Acidic PH

    Levels

  • Special Cosmetic Ingredients

    Product Enhancement

  • Preservatives

    Product Enhancement Water Makes Necessary

  • Conditioning Agents

    Moisture, Humectants, Smoothes Cuticle, Anti Static & Ease

    of Combing


Ingredients not necessary for purpose
Ingredients Not Necessary for Purpose

  • Water

    Product Enhancement

  • Special Cosmetic Ingredients

    Product Enhancement

  • Preservatives

    Product Enhancement Water Makes Necessary


Ingredients of purpose
Ingredients of Purpose

  • Detergents or Surfactants

    Wetting agents that lowers the “surface” tension of

    Water, allows hair to “hold water” and degrease

    Simple Chemistry – 4 Types of Surfs

    Most Commonly Used: Anionic Surfs Sulfates &

    Amphoteric Surfs

Combining surfs from the four different ionic groups makes for beneficial blends that are synergistic when combined for specific hair cleansing needs.


Ingredients of purpose1
Ingredients of Purpose

  • Chelating Agents

    Water Softener, Binds with Minerals

    Keeps Oil/Dirt Breakdown from Re-Depositing

  • Emulsifiers

    Break down Oil and Help Bind for Rinsing

  • Buffing Agents

    Stabilize and Adjusts PH to Acidic

Most additives do not benefit the hair as much in shampoos or rinse off products. Look to your cream rinses or better yet leave-in conditioners for the value “repair” ingredients.


Ingredients of purpose2
Ingredients of Purpose

  • Conditioners

    Smooth, Lubricate and Moisturize

  • Silicones

    Lubricate & Reduce Static – Help Sheen

  • Moisturizers & Humectants

    Smooth Cuticle, Draw Moisture into hair

  • Some Additives

    Help “repair” hair and strengthen

Most additives do not benefit the hair as much in shampoo or anyrinse off product. Look to your conditioners or better yet leave-inconditioners for the most bang for your buck in “repair”ingredients.


Solid shampoo ingredients
Solid Shampoo Ingredients

  • Detergents or Surfactants

    Choose 2/3 solid and 1/3 liquid

  • Emulsifiers

    Ewax or 2 in One (BTMS-50, OSC, Quats)

  • Conditioning Agents

    Butters, Silicones & Panthenol

  • Extras

    Fragrance and/or color


Solid shampoo ingredients1
Solid Shampoo Ingredients

2 Pounds

13 oz SLSA – 34%

11 oz SCI – 28%

9 oz Liquid Surf – 22%

2.5 oz Emulsifiers 2.5 oz – 7%

1.75 oz Stearic – 4%

.75 oz Hard Butters – 1.25%

.75 oz Dimethicone - 1.50%

.33 oz Pathenol 1.25%

.75 oz FO - 1%


Tutorial
Tutorial:

  • Step 1

Preheat cooker to 200 degrees and start to heat liquid surfactant(s). Slowly turn up heat until 250 degrees and hold. Don’t add SCI until liquid is hot.


Tutorial1
Tutorial:

  • Step 2

Start adding the SCI prills, slowly. It’s a dusty powder and will fly around. Add, slowly – wait between thirds. Once you have all incorporated, cover. Stir often. It will take about 2 hours for the prills to dissolve and the mix to “de-lump”.


Tutorial2
Tutorial:

  • Step 3

Once the mix is “de-lumped” and starts to turn semi transparent, you can add the emulsifier, hardeners, and butters. I don’t preheat, but you can. I leave the steric for last as it has the highest melt point, you will know you are ready for the next step when all the white clumps of stearic acid are gone!


Tutorial3
Tutorial:

  • Step 4

Cut your SLSa into thirds. Turn heat down to 200 degrees. Add first third of SLSa and to save time - make circles to incorporate it into the mix, slowly at first. Keep adding until you have it all in. I wait between thirds to let the powder settle and get “wet”.


Tutorial4
Tutorial:

  • Step 5

The mix will now be really thick like really still stiff mashed potatoes, if it’s like oatmeal cook longer. You WILL have a hard time pushing it around.


Tutorial5
Tutorial:

  • Step 5

  • Add the dimethicone and stir well, which will be harder but the dimethicone will give it a bit of lubrication.

  • Add the panthenol and follow the directions above.

  • Add the FO and color if desired.

  • These additions will give you the wetting you need to move the mix into molds more easily.


Tutorial6
Tutorial:

  • Step 6

  • Spoon into you mold. If you are using individual molds, leave the mix heated as you mold. If you don’t it will get harden as you work.

  • You will have to “beat” or knock down the mix, it will be very THICK!


Tutorial7
Tutorial:

  • Step 7

  • Let sit for a couple of hours if you are using a mold, this is just for it to settle as it will harden pretty quickly without heat.


Tutorial8
Tutorial:

  • Step 8

  • After a couple of hours you can remove the mold and cut the log into slices or in my case chunks for bars.


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