21 st century problem 16 th century solution

1. Addressing the Epidemic of Para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization by Going Forward into the PastCatherine Cartwright-Jones PhD 21st century problem 16th century solution

2. ‘Black henna’ temporary tattoos are increasing the number and severity of PPD sensitizations. • Henna is NOT black; ‘Black henna’ = PPD. ‘Black Henna’ temporary tattoos are created by decorating skin with a paste containing 15% to 60% para-phenylenediamine. • In a 1966 sensitization assay, Kligman found that a 10% PPD patch test sensitizes 100% of subjects in 5 or fewer applications. • If a person has a ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo, that person has about a 50% chance of being sensitized to oxidative hair dye. • These sensitized people have a 40% chance of a +++ (severe) reaction.

3. Years after a child gets a ‘black henna’ tattoo on vacation, they grow up and decide to try hair dye: the result is unexpected and may be severe.

4. The negative effect of ‘black henna’ on the oxidative hair dye industry is inevitable • Every year in the west >20,000,000 ‘black henna’ temporary tattoos are applied as souvenirs at beaches, festivals, and cultural events; this epidemic is going to be with us for the next half century. • As of 2015, there were150,000,000 individuals sensitized to PPD through vacation ‘black henna’ temporary tattoos and a much larger number have been sensitized through the cultural use of ‘black henna’.

5. Map of PPD sensitization for 2030 • Light gray: <25% sensitized consumer base; <10% +++ sensitization • Dark gray: >25% sensitized consumer base; >15% +++ sensitization • White: no data

6. Transition people to a 16th century hair dye at the first sign of sensitization to prevent injuries • There is a permanent, non-fading, hair dye technology based on henna, partially fermented indigo, cassia, and fruit acids which existed prior to oxidative hair dyes. These plant dyes are stable, safe, and reliable when used correctly.

7. Henna, cassia and indigo can reproduce all human hair colors and cover gray without fading. • Properly used, these dyes bind with keratin and cover gray permanently. • Properly used, these dyes can be applied over hair dyed with oxidative dyes: there is no need to wait for hair to grow out

8. Why do the current products have poor results? • Adulteration and contamination is widespread, undeclared, and unregulated. The powders rely on metallic salts and added dyes. • They fail to use the precursor-intermediate-bonding sequence.

9. How do you adapt henna to the modern market? • Compound henna hair dye has a terrible reputation in the cosmetic industry because of the destructive cross reactions between mineral salts added to henna products and the activators for oxidative hair dye. • These (usually) undeclared additives include sodium picramate, lead acetate, silver nitrate, copper, nickel, cobalt, bismuth and iron salts. • These mordants are added in lieu of the 16th century dependence on intermediates.

10. 16th century intermediates are the secret • Henna powder must be mixed with a mildly acidic medium, pH 5.5 is ideal. Acidic hydrolysis of precursor in the henna leaf creates the intermediate aglycone. This intermediate binds to keratin via a Michael addition producing the lawsone non-fading stable henna color. R=glc; R1 and R2 = H R1 = glc; R= R2 = H R2 = glc; R = R1 = H a a OX • The paste needs to soak about 8 hours to release the intermediate. • There is a 24 hour window of opportunity to work with the aglycone intermediate before it becomes lawsone and will no longer bind to keratin.

11. Cassia obovata • Cassia also must soak at pH 5.5 8 hour soak to produce the intermediate that dyes hair, with a 12 hour window of opportunity. • Golden color • Excellent repair and conditioning • Vulnerable to hard water (darkens) chrysophanol

12. Acids: anthocyanins and anti-oxidants shift color results.

13. Indigo: the intermediate indoxyl is crucial • Indigo leaves are fermented in an alkaline vat and dried to create vashma; vashma powder is mixed with pH neutral liquid and used immediately. • Vashma paste can be mixed with henna paste to create brunette, or applied over hair dyed with henna to dye hair raven’s wing black. • You can not mix the powders because of the difference in pH and time to release intermediates. You can only mix the intermediate-ready pastes. Indican Indoxyl Indigo

14. Improve understanding: improve outcomes • Work with the intermediates: consumers can learn to mix powders separately and learn to enjoy and value the process. Women take pride in cooking and developing their own recipes. Similarly, women feel empowered when they learn to mix and apply henna.

15. Once you get rid of the metallic salts … • Highlights, straightening, perms, and other chemical processes all become possible, with reduced damage to the hair. • Henna conditions and strengthens hair, reduces weathering and breakage.

16. Women were the wet chemists of the 16th century village bath • Before the 20th century, the understanding of the henna hair dye process was embedded in the village bath; a person who wanted to cover gray had the groups’ cumulative expertise and assistance. • When people bathe privately, they are cut off from the group knowledge of the henna process. • The chemistry of henna, indigo, and cassia hair dye is simple, but requires experience to mix and apply for optimal results.

17. Shared knowledge is the key to henna success • The subtleties of hair type, water supply, mixing times, and application time are all important variables unique to each consumer and which cannot be learned from brief, static written instructions. • The ‘electronic community bath’ creates an educational and social support group for henna. Web 2.0 and interactive real-time technologies can serve as a bridge so that clients can learn through shared experience.

18. Use interactive and dynamic customer support • Recapture sensitized hair dye clients; transition them to henna • Henna is safe for pregnant women and cancer patients. • Henna completely covers gray. • Henna eliminates dandruff. • Henna kills head lice and nits.

19. Henna, indigo, and cassia are safe, reliable 16th century alternatives for sensitized consumers • Educate consumers in recognizing symptoms of PPD sensitization so they can transition before injuries occur. • Educate stylists about henna. Identify sensitized stylists who have had to abandon their careers and reintegrate them through henna. • In 2030 when 16% of graying clientele will not be able to use oxidative hair dye, henna will be not only economically viable but essential to growth of the hair dye industry.

20. Google images:‘hair dye allergic reaction’This is what the beginning of the epidemic sensitization to oxidative hair dye looks like.

21. Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhDccj@mehandi.comhttp://www.hennapage.com/henna/ccj/Articles in academic publication • "The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History.“ Kent State University 2015 • "Lawsonia inermis L. (henna): Ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects," Ruchi Badoni Semwala, Deepak Kumar Semwala, Sandra Combrinck, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, Alvaro Viljoen. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, June 2014 • Henna Body Art in South Asia: Encyclopedia of Popular Culture in Asia and Oceania, Greenwood Press/ABC-CLIO • Developing Guidelines on Henna: A Geographical Approach Master's Essay Kent State University 2015