Chapter Four: Combined Weaves. Concept: Combined weaves are constructed on the basis of two or more fundamental weaves and their derivatives. The combined weaves produce irregular or uneven fabric surface or small woven figures on the fabric.
Combined weaves are constructed on the basis of two or more fundamental weaves and their derivatives. The combined weaves produce irregular or uneven fabric surface or small woven figures on the fabric.
Combined weaves may be divided into the following groups:
Stripe and check weaves
Mock leno weaves
The main point of this weave making is to calculate the weave repeats.
1) number of stripes;
2) the width of each stripe;
3) the warp density; and
4) the stripe weave. See the figure next page:
As we can see here, this fabric contains 3 stripes and the width of the stripes are A,B (cm), then the warp repeat of the fabric is:
Ro=POA+POB= PO (A+B)
Where: POis the warp density per cm.
a = 7.5 cm d = 3.0 cm g = 1.5 cm
b = 1.5 cm e = 24 cm h = 1.5 cm
c = 1.5 cm f = 7.5 cm i = 3.0 cm
j = 24 cm
PO = 21.4 th./cm Py= 19.5 th./cm
(th./cm means threads per cm)
The weave of the background is plain and of the border, a 4-shaft sateen.
From Fig. 4.3 we know stripe has the structure of a fabric with cross stripes. The warp repeat of this stripe equals LCM of the warp repeats of the plain and sateen weaves (R=4). The number of threads in the stripe equals the warp density multiplied by the stripe width, i.e.
Poa = 21.4×7.5 = 160.5
Let’s correct this number to 160; 160/4 = 40, so 40 elementary repeats can be placed within the stripe a.
a = 7cm b = 2.1cm c = 20cm
d = 7cm e = 2.1cm f = 20cm
PO =23 th./cm Py =20 th./cm
Crepe fabrics are characterized by a pebbly or crinkled surface.
1) The crepe effect can be achieved by using crepe yarns
2) The crepe effect can be achieved by using crepe weaves
3) The crepe effect can be achieved by using some special fishing processes.
Adding warp overlaps
Fig.4.5 final crepe weave
Fig.4.7 weaving plan of crepe weave
A B C
Construction of crepe by method of rotation
Details can be found next page
Method of rotation of its reverse.
In Fig. 4.10 at A the base weave is shown. This weave is turned through 900 in a certain direction, for instance, clockwise as at B. The weave at B is next turned one quarter way round to get the weave at C. Another quarter turn gives the weave shown at D. Then all these weaves are transferred to the same drawing at E to make a crepe weave.
This method can produce a very big repeat to avoid any regular patterns on the surface of the fabric.
1) Determine the shafts, see Fig. 4.11, 6 shafts are selected.
2) Design the repeat. The warp repeat Ro should be divided by the shaft selected and the weft repeat should be close to the warp repeat. Here; RO=6×10=60. Ry=40
3) Determine the movement of each shaft. We need pay attention about:
weave is ↗, the sequence of the warp
threads are 1, 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 7, 8.
with the base weave at right, and each weave
turns 90°in counterclockwise direction.