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DOUBLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH STITCH CLASS 400 : MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH This stitch type is formed by inter-looping of two or more groups of thread. Stitch formation in the stitch type 401 MACHINE COMPONENTS Thread tension mechanism Thread tension Nut Tension post holder

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Presentation Transcript
slide1

DOUBLE NEEDLE

CHAIN STITCH

slide2

STITCH CLASS 400 : MULTI THREAD CHAIN STITCH

This stitch type is formed by inter-looping of two or more groups of thread.

Stitch formation in the stitch type 401

slide4

MACHINE COMPONENTS

  • Thread tension mechanism
  • Thread tension Nut
  • Tension post holder
  • Thread Eye-let ( 5 nos. )
  • Thread take-up plate
  • Needle Thread Guard
  • Needle bar and lever Mechanism
  • Needle lever
  • Needle Bar guide and clamp
  • Ball joint
slide5

Feed Mechanism

  • Feed-dog
  • Feed rocker arm
  • Rear puller
  • Feed-dog slots
  • Looper Mechanism
  • Looper
  • Looper Rocker
  • Take-up Rod
  • Looper Holder Bracket
slide6

Presser Foot Mechanism

  • Presser Bar
  • Presser Screw
  • Lifter Lever Spring
  • Presser Foot Lifter Lever
  • Presser Bar Guide
  • Presser Bar Spring
slide7

NEEDLES

Schmetz- UY113GS

Organ – UO113GS

Groz-beckert- TVx64

Needles and needle sizes

slide8

THREADING

Threading of the machine is very important

  • Incorrect threading may cause:
  • Skip stitch
  • Thread breakage
  • Uneven stitch formation
slide9

MACHINE SPEED

Chain stitch machine can have a speed up to 8000rpm

slide10

FEED MECHANISM

  • Unison Feed Mechanism:
  • It is a combination of three feed mechanisms
    • Conventional feed mechanism
    • Needle feed mechanism
    • Alternating presser foot
slide11

TIMING OF THE LOOPER TO NEEDLES

Angle for installing the looper and position of the looper holder bracket

There should be a clearance of 0~0.1mm between the point of the looper and the scarf of the needle

slide13

ADJUSTING THE TIMING OF THE RETAINER LOOPER

Position of the retainer loop

There should be a clearance of 0.5mm between the needle and the point of the retainer looper. Adjustment is made by loosening b as shown in the fig.

slide14

Timing of the retainer looper to the needle

When the needle, moving from top to bottom of

Its stroke, enters the triangle of the looper thread, the retainer Looper should be at the extreme right end of its travel

The clearance between the retainer looper and the right side of looper should we 0.5 mm.

The clearance between the retainer looper and the top surface of the looper blade at 0.1mm

slide15

ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE GUARD

Position of the needle guard

When the needle is closest to needle guard, there should be clearance of 0~0.1mm between the right side of the needle and the guard.

slide16

ADJUSTING THE FEED DOG & STITCH LENGTH

When needle bar is at top of its stroke, the feed dog teeth should be 1~1.2mm above the top surface of the needle plate.

Stitch length

The stitch length can be adjusted from 2 to 5 mm.

slide17

ADJUSTING THE PRESSER FOOT

Presser foot pressure should be as light

as possible yet, sufficient to feed the fabric.

Position of the presser foot

Accurate placement so that the needle can drop correctly

to the centre of the needle drop hole on the presser foot

slide18

ADJUSTING THE STITCH FORMATION

Thread tension adjustment

It can be adjusted by adjusting the mount tension devices on the machine

( The tension should be as light as possible ).

Position of the needle thread eyelets

Secure needle thread eyelets should be at the top end of the slot.

( The needle thread eyelets can be raised to tighten the needle thread )

slide19

APPLICATION OF DNCS

  • Inseam of jeans, trousers
  • In Jackets seams
  • Sewing sides of slacks
  • Hemming or welting garment parts
  • Attaching lining tapes
  • Joining seat of slacks
slide20

VARIATIONS IN DNCS

  • Variations in bed type
  • Cylindrical bed- feed of the arm
  • Raised bed
  • Flat bed
  • Variations in number of needles
  • 2 needle double needle chain stitch machine
  • 4 needle double needle chain stitch machine
  • 12 needle double needle chain stitch machine
  • 33 needle double needle chain stitch machine
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