Pearls of Wisdom

1. PEARLS OF WISDOM 510 W. 6th Street, Suite 821, Los Angeles, CA 90014 1-866-877-3275, sales@thepearlsource.com www.thepearlsource.com

2. 2 Contents ____ INTRODUCTION AKOYA PEARLS Akoya Pearl Cultivation Akoya Pearl Harvesting Akoya Pearl Processing Akoya Pearl Evaluation Luster of Akoya Pearls Surface of Akoya Pearls Color of Akoya Pearls 72 62 64 65 66 68 70 FACTS ABOUT PEARLS What is a pearl Fake vs real pearls Natural Pearls Cultured pearls How pearls are form in the oyster How pearls are harvested Pearl types Pearl sizes Pearl color Pearl luster quality Pearl surface quality Pearl grading Necklace lengths How much are pearls worth 35 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 TAHITIAN PEARLS Tahitian Pearl Cultivation Tahitian Pearl Harvesting Tahitian Pearl Processing Tahitian Pearl Evaluation Luster of Tahitian Pearls Surface of Tahitian Pearls Shape of Tahitian Pearls Color of Tahitian Pearls Size of Tahitian Pearls 93 75 77 79 81 84 86 88 90 42 The most famous pearls in history How to buy pearls How to tell if a pearl is real 37 41 SOUTH SEA PEARLS South Sea Pearl Cultivation South Sea Pearl Harvesting South Sea Pearl Processing South Sea Pearl Evaluation Luster of South Sea Pearls Surface of South Sea Pearls Shape of South Sea Pearls Color of South Sea Pearls Size of South Sea Pearls 116 FRESHWATER PEARLS Freshwater Pearl Cultivation Freshwater Pearl Harvesting Freshwater Pearl Processing Freshwater Pearl Evaluation Luster of Freshwater Pearls Surface of Freshwater Pearls Color of Freshwater Pearls Size of Freshwater Pearls 59 96 98 45 47 48 51 53 55 57 100 102 104 107 110 113

3. 3 introduction introduction The Beautiful, Organic Essence of Cultured Pearls ____ PEARLS are precious water gems with natural beauty that glistens in the light. They are the only gems on the planet that are created naturally by living creatures. This makes them one of the purest, organically created gemstones on the market. Through the ages, pearls have been known as gems for the fabulous, the elegant, the prestigious and the rich & famous. But, today, phrases like “these are not your grandmother’s pearls” have created a new love for these jewels of the sea. Now, women and teens of all ages enjoy the allure of the almighty pearl.

4. 4 introduction The quality of these pearls is evaluated using a grading system based on surface of freshwater pearls, freshwater pearls shapes, luster, matching and color fresh water pearls produce. Freshwater pearl cultivation produces pure pearls. sent out to collect them. They are then moved to a separate part of the farm used as a “nursery” for the little ones. There, the baby oysters are nurtured for about 1-2 years, until they are ready for nucleation, based on the freshwater pearl sizes and development. The nucleation process is a surgical procedure. A foreign object is implanted inside the oyster, which causes it to become irritated. It will then counteract that irritation by surrounding the object with a secreted nacre. That produces actual pearls, with cultured freshwater pearls shapes and freshwater pearl sizes. What Is Freshwater Pearl Farming? Freshwater pearl farming is the process of growing freshwater cultured pearls on a farm. Within a 2-5-year time frame, the pearl farmer nucleates and cares for several thousand oysters, to grow and develop a pearl. It takes both skill and luck to pull it off. Pearl farms can become prey to uncontrollable and unpredictable forces, such as severe storms, water pollution, disease, extreme cold or heat, infestations etc… Before you can begin pearl farming, you must obtain oysters for you to nucleate. Back in the day, this meant fishing for oysters in the ocean. Today, pearl farmers find that it’s simpler and more productive to breed their own. All the farmer has to do is collect oyster eggs and sperm oysters of high-quality, already on the farm. The eggs are fertilized with the sperm, creating a new generation of larvae for the oyster farm. About Freshwater Pearl Harvesting After the oysters have been nucleated, they need a few weeks to recover from the invasive surgical technique. Within that time, some oyster may expel and reject the implanted nuclei. Other oysters my even get sick or die altogether. However, most of them will make full recoveries, improving the farm’s freshwater pearls value. The survivors are put inside nets or cages, and place into oyster beds. They are nurtured there until the freshwater pearl full develops, which could take anywhere from a few months to several years. You want the surface of freshwater pearls to be fully developed. Once pearl development is complete, the freshwater pearl harvesting must begin. The cultured freshwater pearls are taken out of the oysters, washed off, dried off and sorted. They may even be polished in water and salt for more glimmer and shine, improving the luster freshwater pearls produce. Raising Oysters for Freshwater Pearl Farming The oyster larvae are kept under controlled conditions. However, they’re allowed to freely float around in water. Once they reach a few weeks old, they are moved to the “wild.” There, they attach themselves to a stable object, such as a rock. Within the next few months, the larvae will grow into little baby oysters. Collectors are eventually

5. 5 introduction “ A timeless piece of jewelry, like pearls or stud earrings, has lasting value. I bought a vintage ring for $600 with my first paycheck; I plan to pass it down to my daughter ” IVANKA TRUMP

6. 6 introduction unique style complete with the grace of incredible luster. Dare to be different with a gorgeous strand of pearls with a variety of shapes and sizes. Indulge yourself in the lush luxury of wearing pearl jewelry that stands the tests of time. Pearls are a Girl’s Best Friend After All It’s a well-known fact that diamonds are a girl’s best friend. Yet, pearls are timeless beauties that attract socially- minded jewelry lovers. These precious gems are created naturally. Unlike mining for diamonds, cultured pearls are cultivated without causing harm to the environment or the lives of other living creatures. So, in essence, pearls are an organic-lovers best friend. According to a poetic tradition, water merges with the moonlight to form the beauty of pearls. The smooth and lustrous gemstones speak a secret language that talks to the hearts of pearl lovers. Today, celebrities and teens alike have joined in to enjoy the charm radiated by the natural beauties. Choosing the Right Types of Pearls for Your Style There are various types of pearls, all of which are formed naturally. Both natural and cultured pearls can be mesmerizing, as their luster shines beyond dreams. Discover the type of pearl that’s best for your taste and style: Freshwater pearls – Come in a wider variety of pearl shapes and colors than any other type of pearl South Sea pearls – Rarest pearl type, which comes in many different shapes and various colors Tahitian pearls – Formed by the black lip oyster, cultivated near the island of Tahiti Wearing pearls makes a bold statement, whether it’s a short or long strand of pearls, a captivating pearl bracelet or anklet, a cute heart pearl pendant, a simple pearl ring or a custom-designed pearl headband. Pearls are very versatile gems that go well with gold, silver, platinum, titanium and of course, diamonds. When it comes to the magnificent world of pearl jewelry, there are no limits. Take a leap into the world of unique beauty created by the allure of organic pearls. With custom-designed pearl jewelry and accessories, you’re free to let your imagination run wild! The Magical, Mystical Allure of the Pearl of the Sea Pearls come from the sea. And, it’s because of this that they’ve taken on such magical, mystical qualities over the ages. They’re derived from the mysterious world below the ocean water, symbolizing both bliss and knowledge. Nothing speaks elegance like a delicate pearl necklace. And, pearls go with anything! The beauty of a strand of pearls never loses its charm. Today, pearls are quickly becoming one of the hottest gems on the market. From pearly whites to the seductive allure of the black pearl, their luster is like no other. They come in many naturally created vibrant colors, from lovely lavender to sumptuous silver, from gorgeous green to glittering gold. Perfect pearls are hot commodities in the world of jewelry. However, irregular shaped pearls give wearers a

7. 7 introduction “You can’t ever go wrong with pearls. Perhaps pearls are a girl’s best friend after all” Ki Hackney (Author of “Pearls & People”) ____ “The world is your oyster. You are the pearl AND the oyster” Annie Kagan ____ “The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of queens” Anonymous

8. 8 CHAPTER 1 Facts about PEARLS

9. 9 Facts About Pearls Understanding Pearls ____ What are pearls? A pearl is a precious gemstone. However, unlike all other precious gemstones, it is formed inside of a living being – either an oyster or a mussel. Depending on which creature it is formed inside of, a pearl can grow either in freshwater or in saltwater. Beauty Formed By Nature In the wild, pearls are created when an irritant (usually a parasite) finds its way inside of a mollusk. The mollusk is bothered, so it secretes nacre (the same material that coats the inside of its shell) until the nacre slowly builds up over the course of years and the pearl is formed. Pearls can also be farmed, and most pearls today have been cultured professionally. Cultured pearls are formed in exactly the same way as wild pearls, but farmers have a bit more control over the circumstances and can guarantee a crop of pearls rather than hunting them down in the wild. A pearl takes years to form (about three when being farmed, and seven in the wild) and is incredibly rare to find naturally. That’s why most pearls on the market today are cultured pearls. If you find a natural pearl for sale, it will be very expensive and will most likely be part of a piece of vintage jewelry.

10. 10 Facts About Pearls Pearl Varieties The reason why many people struggle with answering the question of “What is a pearl” is because they can vary quite dramatically. Pearls come in many different types, colors, sizes, and lusters. You can choose classic white, round, Anoka pearls, or brightly colored baroque pearls. In terms of jewelry, you might want a classic necklace or a more offbeat pair of unique earrings. The pearl market offers something for every style. When you are shopping for pearl jewelry, you’ll need to keep in mind both your budget and your personal style in order to find the variety that is right for you. You can learn more about all the different aspects of pearls by exploring ThePearlSource.com. Learn More About Pearls Pearls are one of the most classic gemstones, and they look equally at home for a day at the office, a night at the opera, or just running errands around town. If you are considering investing in pearls, keep in mind that they hold their value incredibly well and will likely be an heirloom piece for generations to come. Learning about pearls can seem overwhelming since there are so many factors to consider, but The Pearl Source has answered many questions, so you not only know the answer to “what is a pearl, ” but you can also be confident that you’re choosing the pearls that are just right for you.

11. 11 Facts About Pearls Fake vs. Real Pearls ____ Is this piece of jewelry made of real or fake pearls? When you are shopping for pearl jewelry, you’ll want to make sure that your necklace or earrings are made with real pearls. Recognizing Fake Pearls Fake pearls are fairly common – they are prepared in laboratories and sold under many names. Some of them make it easy to identify them as fakes: they might be sold as costume, imitation, artificial, or simulated pearls. However, sometimes fake pearls are sold as Mallorca or Majorca pearls, which can make customers think that they are simply a variety of real pearl. Luckily, with a little bit of prior knowledge, it’s easy to tell the difference between real or fake pearls. For example, fake pearls will actually be too perfect. They will be completely round and lustrous. If they’re in a necklace or bracelet, every one will be exactly the same size. There will not be any ridges around the drill hole, and they will all be the same color. Real pearls, on the other hand, will always have some sort of imperfection if you look closely. They will reflect light well and will have a unique depth of color. You’ll also notice that real pearls feel gritty if you rub them together or against your tooth, while fake pearls will usually be perfectly smooth. They will also be cool to the touch, even in hot weather.

12. 12 Facts About Pearls Understanding Real Pearls The most precious real pearls are those that are formed in nature. They develop when an irritant enters a mussel or oyster. The mollusk releases nacre, the same substance that forms the inside of its shell, and coats the irritant with it until it is no longer an annoyance. While pearls formed in the wild are the most valuable, there are also many real pearls available that have been farmed. Pearls are farmed by intentionally inserting irritants into mollusks so that the nacre is released over time. It often takes about three years for this process to be completed. If you are considering buying some beautiful pearl jewelry, you’ll want to learn how to identify real pearls. Luckily, it’s not difficult to do as long as you keep in mind the points laid out in this article regarding pearl color, texture, and size. If you’re not confident in your ability to identify real pearls, you can also protect yourself by buying your pearls from a respected source, such as The Pearl Source. We offer only the most beautiful and high- quality real pearls.

13. 13 Facts About Pearls Natural Pearls When you are shopping for pearl jewelry, it’s important to understand the different kinds of pearls that are on the market. You’ll have the option of choosing between cultured and imitation (or fake, pearls). It can feel overwhelming to decide between the different options, but with a little bit of research, you’ll find that it’s easy to know which option is right for you.

14. 14 Facts About Pearls Letting Nature Create Natural pearls are by far the most expensive variety of pearls. In fact, they are unique in the world of gemstones because they are created entirely within a living being. They are created entirely naturally and must be hunted in the wild without any indication of where they will be found. Natural pearls occur when a small irritant, usually a parasite, finds its way inside a mollusk. They can happen in either saltwater oysters or freshwater mussels, which creates the difference between saltwater and freshwater pearls. Only one in 10000 oysters will ever produce a natural pearl A Beautiful Imperfection The small irritant bothers the mollusk, so it releases nacre (the same material that the inside of the shell is coated with) slowly and covers the irritant with layers of it over the course of years. The shape, size, and color of the pearl that will result is determined by the irritant that it is formed around as well as the region of the ocean where the mollusk lives. Natural pearls come in a wide range of colors and shapes. While the perfectly spherical pearls are the most valuable, some people even prefer the unusually shaped or colored pearls. Most natural pearls are stunningly luminous and reflect light beautifully. Extremely Beautiful and Rare It’s incredibly rare to find a natural pearl. Approximately one in 10,000 oysters will ever produce a natural pearl, and very few of those pearls will be of a variety that people will want to purchase. In fact, most of the naturally pearl-producing mollusks have been over-harvested for decades, which means that most natural pearls you will find on the market are part of vintage pieces of jewelry. If you decide to purchase a pearl that the seller is claiming to be natural, you’ll want to make sure it has an official gemological x-ray certificate. That certificate will prove that it’s natural and of a high quality. Natural pearls are extremely expensive, but if you can afford them, they can be an excellent investment since they hold their value well. They also look beautiful with almost any outfit and will make a wonderful heirloom to hand down to future generations.

15. 15 Facts About Pearls Cultured Pearls ____ When researching the different kinds of pearls, you’ll notice that there are a few different options. You can purchase natural pearls, cultured pearls, or imitation pearls. Imitation pearls are fake, and often made of plastic – they are almost certainly not what you would like if you’re searching for beautiful pearl jewelry. Natural pearls, on the other hand, are incredibly rare and extremely expensive. For most people, the best option is a cultured pearl. Cultured pearls are created in the same manner as natural pearls, but their production is more tightly controlled, so they are more affordable. A pearl farmer will insert an irritant into the oyster or mussel, causing it to release nacre and coat the irritant with it until it forms a pearl. Since they are designed, the farmer can make sure that they are perfectly shaped and perfectly luminous. They can also be bleached or colored after being harvested to give them the desired color. For the most part, cultured pearls will look like natural pearls and share all of the same characteristics. However, while natural pearls take at least seven years to form, cultured pearls are usually formed around a larger irritant and take about three years to develop.

16. 16 Facts About Pearls Cultured Does Not Mean Imitation Many people think of cultured pearls as being the same as imitation pearls, but that’s not true. They are created exactly the same way as natural pearls, just under more controlled circumstances. They will have the same texture, heft, color, and luminosity as any natural pearl would, just at a lower price point. Imitation pearls, however, are made of an entirely different material. If you are shopping for pearl jewelry, you will likely find that natural pearls are only available in vintage pieces, and even then at very high prices. Cultured pearls, on the other hand, are much more accessible to the average consumer. They have the same quality and beauty as natural pearls, making them a very popular choice for people who want to invest in pearl jewelry. Choose High-Quality Cultured Pearls When choosing cultured pearls, it is important to find a supplier that focuses on providing the highest quality. The Pearl Source provides top quality farm- raised pearls for years and offers a wide range of options. For anyone looking to invest in pearl jewelry or begin their collection, how it’s made definitely matters.

17. 17 Facts About Pearls How Pearls are Made ____ Pearls are an incredibly unique gemstone. While most precious gems are formed in the ground, surrounded by rocks, pearls are the only gemstone created inside a living creature.

18. 18 Facts About Pearls 7years for enough nacre to build up for the wild pearl to be finished Where do pearls come from? The simple answer to the question of “where do pearls come from” is nature. They are grown inside ocean creatures – oysters and mollusks. You might not think of oysters and mussels as living beings, but they are. Oysters are a specific type of mollusk that lives in the ocean, while mussels live in freshwater. Pearls are formed inside either these two creatures, over a period of many years. We wear the finished form of this ocean-grown gem. How are pearls made? Pearls are made when a small irritant finds its way inside an oyster or mollusk. This can be a grain of sand or a piece of shell but is more typically a little parasite. This irritant bothers the mollusk, which then slowly secretes nacre to protect itself. Nacre is the substance that coats the inside of an oyster or mussel’s shell. The nacre coats the irritant, and the layers build up over time. Depending on the size and shape of the irritant, the resulting pearl can take on a wide variety of sizes and shapes. The color can also vary based on the part of the ocean or other body of water where the mollusk lives. The ideal pearl is perfectly round and luminous, but they can also come in unusual shapes and different colors. It takes many years for enough nacre to build up for the pearl to be finished. Generally, wild pearls take at least seven years to form. Because it takes so long for a pearl to form, and they can be very difficult to find in the wild, most pearls on the market today are actually farmed. Cultured pearls are created the same way as naturally occurring pearls, but the farmer has more control over the finished product. They intentionally insert an irritant and then make sure the mollusk is living in an environment where it will secrete nacre in the correct color. Cultured pearls usually take about three years to form, since the farmer will insert a larger irritant as the “seed” than would exist in the wild. Now that you know the answer to the question of how are pearls made, you should understand why this rare gem is so valuable. The circumstances need to be just right for a beautiful pearl to form, and they take years to be ready to harvest. When you are shopping for pearls or pearl jewelry, remember how unique they are in the world of gemstones.

19. 19 Facts About Pearls How Pearls are Harvested ____ Knowing how pearls are harvested isn’t necessary if you’re looking to buy some pearl jewelry, but it’s definitely interesting. Pearls are unique among gemstones. While most gems are formed by being under pressure in the earth’s crust, pearls are actually formed inside of living beings. That means that they are not mined the same way that other gems are.

20. 20 Facts About Pearls Pearl harvesting mostly takes place in remote areas of the world. This is because oysters only produce pearls in unpolluted water. As the world has seen higher and higher levels of pollution in recent decades, it has become more and more difficult to find areas where healthy oysters can produce beautiful pearls. This means that many pearl farmers and pearl lovers are heavily involved in the environmental movement – they don’t want to see this beautiful gem disappear forever. So, when you are looking for pearls, keep in mind that their creation is a years- long process. And, the pearl that you purchase may well be part of a “family” of pearls, multiple generations having been produced by the same oyster. It’s truly an amazing process, and we at The Pearl Source are continually impressed by the high quality of pearls that farmers around the world are able to culture and harvest, all while keeping their oysters healthy. Cultured Pearls These days, most pearls are cultured. That’s because wild pearls are extremely difficult to find, and many areas where they form were over harvested in past centuries. So, pearl farmers today cultivate oysters in ideal conditions. Pearls take years to form, and during that time the farmer makes sure that the oyster is fed and healthy. When it is time to remove the pearl, it is sent to a harvester. They will very carefully open the oyster and remove the pearl, often using a surgical instrument. Removing a pearl does not harm the oyster – in fact, they can then insert a new nucleus and grow another pearl inside of the same oyster. The pearls grown by older oysters are larger and often of a higher quality than first- generation pearls, so pearl farmers take great care not to harm their oysters in the harvesting process. A Delicate Practice The process behind how pearls are harvested requires a careful touch and plenty of patience. When you purchase cultured pearls, you are not only purchasing the natural beauty of this gem, you are also taking advantage of the professional ability of the farmers and harvesters that cultivated and farmed it.

21. 21 Facts About Pearls Pearl Types ____ If you’re ready to invest in some classic pearl jewelry, you’ll discover that there are a few different varieties available to choose from. There are five kinds of cultured pearls available to consumers: Akoya, Tahitian, Freshwater, White and Golden South Seas, and Sea of Cortez. Read on to learn more about these different types of pearls

22. 22 Facts About Pearls Freshwater pearls These pearls come from China and are available in a wide range of colors, shapes, and sizes. They can naturally be produced in pastel shades of pink, lavender, and peach, and are also often dyed brighter colors. They can be as large as 15 millimeters. Akoya pearls These pearls are cultured in China, Japan, and Vietnam. They are perfectly round and white and very shiny. When you picture pearls in your mind, this is likely the type that you are picturing. They can range from two to nine millimeters. Tahitian pearls Tahitian pearls have a unique dark color, ranging from a pale gray to nearly black. They shimmer with overtones of green and blue. They are almost always sold in their natural color and receive no treatment other than washing and buffing. They’re farmed on the French Polynesian islands and average nine to 13 millimeters in size. However, Tahitian pearls are rarely perfectly round – they’re usually in more baroque shapes. White and Golden South Seas pearls The largest pearls on the market are South Sea pearls, which are cultured along the northern coast of Australia. They come in beautiful shades of gold and white, and average 9 to 15 millimeters. They tend to have the thickest layer of nacre of any pearl type, which makes them appear more satiny than other pearl types. Each of these pearl types is beautiful in its own way, and you can’t go wrong choosing any of them. You might want to buy a classic Akoya pearl necklace, or a more unique Tahitian pearl bracelet. You’ll just need to consider your personal style and which pearl variety best fits for you. Whichever type of pearl you choose, we’re confident you’ll love your new pearl jewelry.

23. 23 Facts About Pearls Finding the Perfect Pearl Sizes ____ Now that you are ready to invest in some beautiful and classic pearl jewelry, you need to decide exactly what variety of pearl you would like to purchase. The Pearl Source offers a wide range of pearl sizes, but it’s important that you learn about the options available to you before you make a decision. Your pearl jewelry is likely to become a treasured family heirloom, and we want you and future generations to be happy with your choice both now and for decades to come.

24. 24 Facts About Pearls Common Pearl Sizes Pearls sizes range from as small as two millimeters in diameter up to 20 millimeters. The exact sizes available to you will depend on which variety of pearl you’ve decided to purchase. You can learn more about the different types of pearls here (link to other article). Freshwater pearls are a bit larger, ranging from 5 mm to 12 mm. Sometimes they can even be found in larger sizes, although those are rare and more expensive. Most freshwater pearl necklaces will be made up of pearls 7 to 9 mm in diameter. If you’ve chosen Akoya pearls, they range from 3 mm to 9.5 mm. The average size is about 7-8 mm, and this is likely what you will find if you are buying a necklace of Akoya pearls. Tahitian pearls can range from 8 to 16 mm in size and are also often part of a graduated necklace where the largest pearls are in the front, and the smallest are in the back. South Sea pearls are the largest variety. They range from 9 to 15 mm – although some have been harvested that are as large as 20 mm! A pearl necklace of South Sea pearls will typically consist of pearls 10 to 12 mm in diameter, although they usually include a range of sizes. Typical Pearl Sizes in Jewelry As you begin shopping for pearls, you’ll find that the larger varieties are almost always significantly more expensive than their smaller counterparts. Most pearl jewelry is made of pearls in the 7 to 8 mm range, which works well for both necklaces and earrings. Larger pearls are more commonly found in necklaces or bracelets since they can be overwhelming on the ear. Once you have decided what kind of pearl you want, and the size you are looking for, you’re ready to begin shopping in earnest. Your budget might determine what options are available to you, but we are confident that whatever you choose you’ll be thrilled with because you’ve added genuine pearl jewelry to your collection.

25. 25 Facts About Pearls Choosing the Perfect Pearl Colors ____ When thinking about pearls, most people think of them only as being white or cream. While those are very common colors for pearls, there are actually a wide range of pearl colors available on the market today. When you’re shopping for pearl jewelry, you’ll want to consider the environment where you’ll be wearing it and your personal style so that you can choose the pearl color that will go the best with your wardrobe.

26. 26 Facts About Pearls White Akoya, South Sea, and Freshwater pearls can all be found in white. They often have overtones of rose, silver, or ivory. White pearls are classic, go with anything, and will be treasured for generations. The most popular pearl is a white Akoya pearl. Lavender Freshwater pearls can also be cultivated for a lavender color. They often boast overtones of green and aquamarine and can be found from 4 to 16 mm. Blue Natural blue pearls are very rare. Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, and Sea of Cortez pearls can all be found in blue, with stunning overtones. However, it’s thought that this beautiful color is actually the result of a metabolic disorder within the mollusk, which is why these pearls are so rare. Black Black pearls are seen as exotic. Tahitian and Sea of Cortez pearls can be naturally black, and other varieties can be color treated. Black pearls often have a beautiful rainbow of overtones. Golden South Sea pearls are naturally golden. These pearls are large, ranging fro 9 mm to 16 mm, and they are said to bring wealth and prosperity to their owners. Chocolate Tahitian pearls are occasionally chocolate, and they and Freshwater pearls can both be dyed to a chocolate tone. The average size is 10 to 12 mm, so these pearls are fairly large. Pink and Peach Freshwater pearls are cultivated in China to create beautiful pink pearls. They often have overtones of gold, green, and aquamarine. These pearls can be cultivate d to reach up to 16 mm in size, although they more typically range from 6 to 9.5 mm.

27. 27 Facts About Pearls Pearl Luster ____ When you are shopping for pearl jewelry, perhaps the most important thing to keep an eye on is the amount of luster the pearl has. Almost anyone can recognize pearl luster when they see it, but many people are not able to define what they are looking for when they are seeking beautiful pearls.

28. 28 Facts About Pearls builds up enough coats of nacre that it becomes a beautiful pearl. Typically, the more nacre that has been deposited on a pearl, the more lustrous that it will be. High luster pearls will appear bright no matter what kind of light they are under. They will easily reflect surrounding objects. While most pearls with a thick nacre have high luster, this is not always true – that’s because some pearls do not secrete their nacre in perfect patterns. A pearl with a thin nacre, on the other hand, will have a low luster. They will appear to have pearl luster dust – where the surface appears to be chalky and rough. In order to sort pearls into gradations of luster, people first sort them into broad categories and slowly get more specific by comparing them to both other pearls and to the ideal. If you are looking to purchase fine pearl jewelry, you will likely want to find pieces that have a high luster. Just keep in mind that the more lustrous the pearls, the more valuable (and expensive) they will be. What Is Pearl Luster? Luster is the shine that makes a pearl really stand out. It’s what makes a real pearl differ from an imitation pearl. It’s that beautiful shine that reflects the light off the surface of the gem and makes it possible to see your own reflection in the pearl. Generally, the more luster that a pearl has, the more valuable it is. Overall, you’ll find that saltwater pearls are more lustrous than freshwater pearls. Of course, freshwater pearls can have a beautiful luster, and saltwater pearls can be dim, but this is a good rule of thumb to go by. Pearls without very much luster will appear dim, chalky, and even dusty, compared to the brilliant shine of a pearl with high luster. How Is Luster Formed? The luster of a pearl comes from the nacre that it is coated in. When a pearl is formed, it happens because an irritant finds its way inside of a mollusk, which then coats the irritant with the same substance that covers the inside of its shell, which is nacre. Over the course of years, the irritant

29. 29 Facts About Pearls Pearl Surface Quality ____ When you think of a pearl, you probably think of a brilliant, smooth, shiny white ball. In fact, you’ll be surprised to learn that a pearl’s surface is actually not smooth at all. While all high-quality pearls will appear smooth and reflect both light and the objects around them clearly, the nacre that coats them is actually gritty. In fact, it’s made up of tiny crystals.

30. 30 Facts About Pearls pearl surface blemishes could include gaps, cracks, and chips, all of which can lead to a pearl either peeling or breaking. That means the pearl is less durable in the long run. Other blemishes include spots and wrinkles, which do not impact the durability of the pearl, so they have less of an impact on price. However, if they are highly visible the blemished pearl will not be highly valued for jewelry, since people want a smooth and beautiful clean pearl, not one that is covered in marks. When you are shopping for pearl jewelry, keep in mind the pearl surface quality. A few blemishes are normal – after all, pearls are a naturally occurring phenomenon, and in nature, imperfections will happen – but you do not want a pearl that is moderately or heavily spotted. Understanding Pearl Quality The quality of the pearl surface is one of the most important factors for judging a pearl’s value. Most pearls have blemishes of some sort, but the fewer blemishes there are, the more that it is worth. When you are judging a pearl’s surface quality, there are a few things to look for, mainly whether or not there are spots. Pearls are typically sorted into one of four categories based on their surface quality: CLEAN pearls are either blemish- free, or they have tiny imperfections that you can’t see with the naked eye. These are the most valuable. LIGHTLY SPOTTED pearls have small imperfections, but they’re not going to be noticed by most people. Trained pearl graders can see these blemishes. If you aren’t sure if a pearl is real or fake, one way to test it is to rub it against your tooth or another pearl. If the surface feels gritty, like very fine sandpaper, you’ve likely found a real pearl. Most fake pearls will have a perfectly smooth surface. MODERATELY SPOTTED pearls have visible blemishes. There may even be one or two spots that are very noticeable. HEAVILY SPOTTED pearls are the least valuable, because of their obvious imperfections. Quality and Value Generally, the more spotted that a pearl is, the less it is worth. These

31. 31 Facts About Pearls Pearl Grading ____ There are a wide variety of pearls on the market, and comparing them can be difficult, especially when you are purchasing them online and not in person. This is why grading systems have been established – so that you can get a good sense of the quality of pearl that you are considering and compare across different sellers and varieties. Unfortunately, some pearl sellers do not stick to the standard grading systems. There are some who will create their own system, or use terms outside of the system to make it sound as though their pearls are of an even higher quality. If you’re not sure what grading system a seller is using, you can ask them for a written description of each term.

32. 32 Facts About Pearls There are two primary pearl grading systems: Akoya Grading System: A-AAA This system was designed for Akoya pearls. These pearls must have a nacre thickness of at least .4 mm. They are rated from A to AAA. Pearls can have low luster and defects (sometimes pearls with defects can be mounted into jewelry so that the blemishes can’t be seen), as well as a thin nacre resulting in a chalky surface. AA pearls have higher luster and very few visible defects. AAA pearls are the highest quality in this grading system. At least 95% of the surface is free of defects, and the pearl will be perfectly round with a mirror- like luster. Tahitian Grading System: A-D or A-AAAA This system rates pearls from A to D. D pearls have dome defects over more than 60 percent of the surface. C pearls have medium luster with defects over less than 60 percent of the surface. B pearls have a medium or high luster with defects over less than 30 percent of the surface, and A pearls are the highest quality with high luster and minor imperfections over less than ten percent of the surface area. Pearl Grading and Value When shopping for pearls, keep in mind that the higher quality pearls will always be more expensive. Sometimes, it is economical to purchase a lower-quality pearl if it has been set in a piece of jewelry in such a way that its imperfections are hidden. In this way, you can get a beautiful piece of jewelry at a lower price. When you are shopping for pearls, make sure you understand which pearl grading system the seller is using. This can be especially confusing since an A pearl is the highest quality in the Tahitian system and the lowest in the Hanadama system. Doing so can help you get the most value for your investment.

33. 33 Facts About Pearls Pearl Necklace Lengths ____ There are many things to take into account when you are investing in a pearl necklace. Of course, you will want to consider the many different factors of the pearls themselves, such as their luster, size, type, and color. However, you’ll also want to consider the pearl necklace length itself. Traditionally, different pearl necklace types were associated with women of different ages and for different occasions. However, we believe that you should find the strand length you like the most and go with that. This pearl necklace length guide will help you decide.

34. 34 Facts About Pearls PEARL COLLAR. Collars are only 12 to 13 inches long and fit snugly on the neck. They typically have multiple strands of pearls to make a bigger statement. PEARL ROPE. Any pearl necklace longer than 37 inches is considered a pearl rope. This is a luxurious length that offers many different options such as looping, knotting, or tossing over the shoulder. Some pearl ropes even come with multiple clasps so that they can be broken down into other necklace and bracelet combinations. PEARL CHOKER. These are slightly longer, at 14 to 16 inches, and sit comfortably at the base of the neck. This length is very versatile and looks just as much at home at the office as it does for a fancy night out. This pearl necklace length guide is meant only to help you start considering what kind of pearl necklace will fit your wardrobe best. Consider what you like to wear, and think about the jewelry that you tend to gravitate towards. PRINCESS NECKLACE. This is the most common length and runs 17 to 19 inches. It works well with both high and low necklines, with 18 inches being considered the classic length for a pearl necklace. You might want a pearl necklace to replace the imitation pearls you’ve had for years – in that case, you might want to find something the same length. Or, you might want to try an entirely different and more dramatic look, and invest in a beautiful pearl rope that will be the highlight of any outfit. OPERA NECKLACE. This necklace is longer, 26 to 36 inches, and offers the wearer a few different options. Wear it as a single strand draping low, or loop it to make a shorter double-stranded necklace. Some women choose to knot it for a more unusual look.

35. 35 Facts About Pearls How much are pearls worth? ____ The value of a pearl can vary dramatically depending on many factors, such as its type, size, color, surface quality, and more. A wild pearl will be worth more than a cultured pearl. However, on average, a pearl’s value ranges from $300 to $1500.

36. 36 Facts About Pearls Types of Pearls FRESHWATER PEARLS come in a huge range of shapes and sizes and colors. Round freshwater pearls look almost identical to Akoya pearls but are less expensive, with a strand ranging from $50 to $2,000. AKOYA PEARLS are the classic round, white pearls. They were the first pearls ever to be farmed, and are a little bit smaller. A strand of Akoya pearls can cost from $300 to more than $10,000. TAHITIAN PEARLS are exotic, with dark colors. Depending on their size and quality, a strand of Tahitian pearls can cost from $500 to more than $25,000. SOUTH SEA - sourced pearls are considered the most valuable. They are also the largest pearl variety on the market. A strand of South Sea pearls can range from $1,000 to over $100,000. While pearl jewelry is definitely expensive, it’s possible to find genuine pearl pieces at almost any price point. A pearl’s worth depends on a wide range of factors. If you find that you don’t mind having a less “special” variety, or you don’t mind a few unnoticeable blemishes, you may be able to receive a great deal on your pearls. Pearls As an Investment Pearls also tend to hold their value fairly well. The highest quality pearls are quite durable, which is why vintage pearl jewelry continues to be worth a lot of money today. If you invest in pearl jewelry, you will be able to pass it along to future generations in your family, and it can be a beautiful and valuable heirloom piece. While the prices of pearls can sometimes seem overwhelming, you do not need to spend tens of thousands of dollars to have a piece that you will treasure for decades. The Pearl Source provides pearls at many different price points. Shorter strands of pearls cost less than longer strands - even if they are the same quality. This means you may be able to afford a beautiful, high-quality pearl choker even if a pearl rope is far out of your budget. You’ll find that your pearls are a great investment, no matter how much you spend on them.

37. 37 CHAPTER 2 The most famous PEARLS IN HISTORY And Curious Facts About Them

38. 38 The most famous pearls in history “ All art is autobiographical. The pearl is the oyster’s autobiography ” FEDERICO FELLINI Of all the famous quotes about pearls, these words by Federico Fellini are the most accurate. Especially when speaking about the most unusual, most rare, and most famous examples of pearls in the world today.

39. 39 The most famous pearls in history Top 10 Most Famous Pearls in the World ____ The following ten pearls each contain its own unique story… a rich history with characters of great wealth and nobility: 30 years and then was sold in 1992. Nobody knows who currently owns the Abernathy Pearl. The Pearl of Allah Also known as the Pearl of Lao Tzu, this interesting specimen is believed to be the largest natural pearl in existence. The pearl was found in the Philippines and given to Wilburn Cobb (an American) when he saved the life of the tribal chief’s son. Weighing in at more than 14 pounds and almost 10 inches across, it’s an enormous creation of the sea. The Abernathy Pearl The Abernathy Pearl is a freshwater pearl that was found in Scotland’s River Tay in 1967. It is named after the diver who found it, Bill Abernathy. This pearl is one of very few that had been graded as “perfect.” Being found in Scotland makes it especially unusual. There have never been many pearls produced in those waters, but since the Industrial Revolution, the river has become extremely polluted. Pearls typically need pristine water to form, so that makes the Abernathy even more unique. It was displayed in a jewelry store in Cairncross for almost La Peregrina Pearl This beautiful pearl has a long and storied past. It was discovered near Panama in the 1500s, and then given to King Phillip II of Spain, who gave it to his wife, Queen Mary. Its name, La Peregrina, translates to The Wanderer. This pear-shaped pearl is huge, weighing almost 56 karats. After Queen Mary died, the pearl passed through the hands of other queens of France and Austria, and then to Napoleon Bonaparte. The Arco Valley Pearl The second largest natural pearl ever discovered, the Arco Valley Pearl, is reported to have once been owned by the famed explorer Marco Polo, who was given it by the Mongolian emperor Khubilai Khan. It’s the largest natural pearl outside of a museum in the world today.

40. 40 The most famous pearls in history The Imperial Hong Kong Pearl A baroque pearl nearly the size of a bird’s egg, the Imperial Hong Kong Pearl earned its name through ownership by Chinese royalty. An interesting teardrop shape, this pearl is known for its amazing luster and deep coloration. The Hope Pearl Regarded as the largest saltwater natural pearl ever discovered, the Hope Pearl is an impressive specimen. It measures about two inches by four inches and weighs almost four ounces. The pearl ranges from a greenish gold color at the bottom to a pure white at the top. This gem is in the permanent collection of the British Museum of Natural History, where any visitor to London can admire it. It also led to the popularity of baroque pearl jewelry. Henry Philip Hope once owned this pearl and the Hope Diamond, at the same time. The Big Pink Pearl This pearl was discovered off the coast of California, the Big Pink Pearl was produced by an abalone. The diver who discovered this treasure still owns the pearl despite numerous offers to buy it. In 1991, it was valued at $4.7 million. The Huerfana This pearl was once part of the Spanish crown jewels. It was once owned by Doña Isabel de Bobadilla, the first female governor of Cuba. Sadly, the pearl is thought to have been destroyed during a palace fire in Cuba in the 18th century. The Gogibus Pearl The Gogibus Pearl has a long and mysterious past. Discovered by a Spanish merchant named Gogibus, the pearl was sold to King Philip IV. The pearl’s whereabouts are currently unknown although every few years, the long lost Gogibus Pearl is rumored to be seen in a private collection in various parts of the world. Of the ten most famous pearls in the world, each one has a unique story to tell. Traveling through history in the possession of wealthy and powerful people, the pearls have witnessed much. Regarded as natural wonders, these pearls are among the most beautiful examples of their kind. They continue to be treasured in museums, private collections, jewelry stores and “pearl history books” around the world. Jomon Pearl At one time, the 5,000-year-old Jamun Pearl was believed to be the oldest known pearl in existence. Older pearls have since been found in the Arabian Peninsula, but the Jomon Pearl continues to be one of the most famous pearls in the world and is a national treasure in its native Japan.

41. 41 CHAPTER 3 How to buy PEARLS Pearl Buying Tips

42. 42 How to buy pearls How to Tell If a Pearl Is Really Real ____ The world today, especially in the gemstone business, is full of counterfeits and imitations. The pearl industry is not an exception. Before, pearls were only found in the wild. This made pearls very rare. Today, technology makes fake pearls look so real. So, the probability of getting a counterfeit pearl can be high.

43. 43 How to buy pearls Counterfeit pearl products change over time. An imitation pearl today, may not have the same features as a counterfeit pearl a couple of years ago. Therefore, the best way to know how to tell if pearls are real is by knowing the features of an authentic pearl. RUBBING TWO PEARLS TOGETHER When a real pearl is rubbed against another real pearl, a pearl powder is produced. The same effect is seen if a real pearl is lightly scrubbed using a knife. If two fake pearls are rubbed against each other, the process is smooth, and no powder is produced. Knock two real pearls against each other, and a soft and unique sound is produced. When counterfeit pearls are knocked together, the sound that is produced is very slight. USING FIRE TO TEST PEARL AUTHENTICITY Another method anyone can use to learn how to tell if pearls are real is a naked flame. When you burn a real pearl mildly, the pearl remains shiny, intact and produces no odor. If the flame is consistent for about 2 minutes, the pearl produces a pop sound. A counterfeit pearl coming across a naked fire will produce a bad odor, and it loses its luster. TESTING PEARLS USING CHEMICALS There are special chemical methods that can be used to find out if a pearl is real. A genuine pearl has a relative density of 2.73 and dissolves in hydrochloric acid. Counterfeit pearls don’t react to hydrochloric acid. An authentic pearl is not affected by acetone solution. However, a counterfeit one loses its luster totally when acetone is used. Tips to Determine If a Pearl is Real or Fake FEELING THE PEARL The first and the easiest way to tell if a pearl is real is by feeling it. When you touch a real pearl, it feels cool and warms up when worn. Fake pearls feel warm, and can be sticky when felt with fingers. A natural pearl has a unique weight. Counterfeits may have a weight that is ridiculously small or an exaggerated heavyweight. Real pearls come in different sizes and shapes, unlike the counterfeit ones that come in basically one-size-and- shape-fits-all. Genuine pearls have the ability to reflect unlike the imitations, which have no reflection capabilities. THE LUSTER OF REAL PEARLS VS FAKE PEARLS Another way of telling whether a pearl is real is by checking its luster. A real pearl has a unique luster and a natural, rough feel. This is because it has small ridges on its surface. These ridges may not be visible to the naked eye. However, experts and jewelers can check the “natural flaws” in a pearl using a magnifying object. In real pearls, these same ridges can be felt using the teeth. However, testing with the teeth is not accepted by many retailers.

44. 44 CHAPTER 4 Freshwater PEARLS

45. 45 Freshwater Pearls The Ins and Outs Of Freshwater Pearl Cultivation ____ Freshwater pearls are pearls that are grown on pearl farms using freshwater mussels. Since mussels are the organic hosts, the pearls can grow up to 10 times bigger than those made by saltwater oysters, naturally. And, luster freshwater pearls produce is astounding.

46. 46 Freshwater Pearls pull it off. Pearl farms can become prey to uncontrollable and unpredictable forces, such as severe storms, water pollution, disease, extreme cold or heat, infestations, etc… Before you can begin pearl farming, you must obtain oysters for you to nucleate. Back in the day, this meant fishing for oysters in the ocean. Today, pearl farmers find that it’s simpler and more productive to breed their own. All the farmer has to do is collect oyster eggs and sperm oysters of high-quality, already on the farm. The eggs are fertilized with the sperm, creating a new generation of larvae for the oyster farm. Raising Oysters for Freshwater Pearl Farming The oyster larvae are kept under controlled conditions. However, they’re allowed to freely float around in water. Once they reach a few weeks old, they are moved to the “wild.” There, they attach themselves to a stable object, such as a rock. Within the next few months, the larvae will grow into little baby oysters. Collectors are eventually sent out to collect them. They are then moved to a separate part of the farm used as a “nursery” for the little ones. There, the baby oysters are nurtured for about 1-2 years, until they are ready for nucleation, based on the freshwater pearl sizes and development. The nucleation process is a surgical procedure. A foreign object is implanted inside the oyster, which causes it to become irritated. It will then counteract that irritation by surrounding the object with a secreted nacre. That produces actual pearls, with cultured freshwater pearls shapes and freshwater pearl sizes. Because mussels contain no shell bead nucleus, freshwater cultured pearls are pure. Each one can produce multiple pearls with each production cycle. Plus, the entire freshwater pearl cultivation process requires much less advanced surgical skills for full cultivation than ocean pearl cultivation. This helps to make these pearls easier to cultivate and less expensive than other pearls, increasing their freshwater pearls value. The quality of these pearls is evaluated using a grading system based on surface of freshwater pearls, freshwater pearls shapes, luster, matching and color freshwater pearls produce. Freshwater pearl cultivation produces pure pearls. What Is Freshwater Pearl Farming? Freshwater pearl farming is the process of growing freshwater cultured pearls on a farm. Within a 2-5-year time frame, the pearl farmer nucleates and cares for several thousand oysters, to grow and develop a pearl. It takes both skill and luck to

47. 47 Freshwater Pearls About Freshwater Pearl Harvesting After the oysters have been nucleated, they need a few weeks to recover from the invasive surgical technique. Within that time, some oyster may expel and reject the implanted nuclei. Other oysters may even get sick or die altogether. However, most of them will make full recoveries, improving the farm’s freshwater pearls value. The survivors are put inside nets or cages and place into oyster beds. They are nurtured there until the freshwater pearl fully develops, which could take anywhere from a few months to several years. You want the surface of freshwater pearls to be fully developed. Once pearl development is complete, the freshwater pearl harvesting must begin. The cultured freshwater pearls are taken out of the oysters, washed off, dried off and sorted. They may even be polished in water and salt for more glimmer and shine, improving the luster freshwater pearls produce.

48. 48 Freshwater Pearls Processing Freshwater Cultured Pearls ____ Pearl farming is the industry involved in grafting the pearl mollusks and producing the cultured pearls. Today, these cultured pearls contribute to about 100% of the total pearls sold. But, growing freshwater cultured pearls is a tedious, yet rewarding process.

49. 49 Freshwater Pearls Modern Pearl Farming Methods Step one in the pearl production process is obtaining oysters to be nucleated. The modern practice of breeding your own oysters requires the pearl farmer to collect oyster egg and sperm from pearl-producing oysters already present on the farm. The sperm is later used to fertilize the eggst, to form a new generation of the oyster larvae. Raising Freshwater Oysters The larvae are then allowed to float freely in the water, but under controlled conditions, until they’re a few weeks old. Over a few month’s period, the larvae develop into baby oysters. They are then moved into a separate nursery region on the pearl farm. Here they’re tended for around 1-2 years until they grow large to be nucleated. The Process of Pearl Farming Freshwater cultured pearls are grown on pearl farms. Thousands of oysters are nucleated and then taken well care of during the 2-5 years needed for a pearl to mature. A whole bed of oysters can be entirely destroyed by uncontrollable and unpredictable factors, such as: • Disease • Pollution in the water • Intense storms • Temperature extremes • Other unforeseen circumstances So, to optimize the gains, freshwater pearl farming is carried out during the autumn and spring months. That’s when the water temperatures and other external environmental conditions, like the weather, are calm. Freshwater pearls thrive in stable, peaceful and calm conditions. The Process of Oyster Nucleation Nucleation process is a surgical procedure, in which a foreign object is implanted into the oyster. The object causes some irritation, which the oyster responds to by secreting nacre to cover the object. This mechanism produces the pearl. It generally occurs within about two years.

50. 50 Freshwater Pearls Freshwater Mussel Grafting & Pearl Harvesting When grafting a freshwater mussel, a piece of mantle tissue is placed inside an incision in a host mussel’s mantle rather than in the gonad. On average, a freshwater mussel will produce between 24-32 pearls within every culturing cycle. After the nucleating process is complete, the oysters are given a few weeks to heal from the surgery. Then, the oysters are placed in nets or cages and moved into the oyster bed. There, they will be cared for by pearl farmers while the pearls develop. Based on the type of oyster, this process may take a few additional months or even several more years. After the pearls have fully developed (up to five years), they must be harvested. The pearls are removed from the oysters, washed, dried and sorted into various categories. Freshwater cultured pearls are then sold to pearl dealers, jewelers, and other manufacturers. 28 pearls will produce a freshwater mussel within every culturing cycle (on average)