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Peter Scott & Co Ltd. Finest Quality Knitwear Since 1878. Company History. Founded in 1878 by Peter Scott One of the oldest independent Scottish Knitwear manufacturers in operation Manufactured undergarments until late 1950`s 160 employees. Yarn.

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Peter Scott & Co Ltd

Finest Quality Knitwear Since 1878


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Company History

  • Founded in 1878 by Peter Scott

  • One of the oldest independent Scottish Knitwear manufacturers in operation

  • Manufactured undergarments until late 1950`s

  • 160 employees


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Yarn

  • Two types of fibre used to spin the yarn - Animal & Plant

  • Fibre: Unit of hair, whose length is 200 times greater than its width. Length of fibre very important.

  • Staple fibre: Fibre of limited length - all natural fibre

  • Fibres are drawn and twisted

  • Friction between the fibres holds the yarn together with the twist


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Luxury Yarns:- Cashmere

  • From the goat native to Tibet, Persia, Kashmir and China

  • Australia now supplies raw material on a commercial basis

  • The undercoat or downy is used for the manufacture of knitwear

  • Before the fibre can be spun it has to be dehaired to remove the courser hair

  • Approx 3.5 goats for 1 sweater


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Luxury Yarns:- Lamora

  • A blend of extra fine Merino wool and Angora from the Angora rabbit farmed mainly in China

  • Angora: One of the finest of animal fibres. Selected, reared and scientifically fed.

  • Ultimately, the hair is combed out by hand, then classified for quality

    The end result is a luxurious garment of extreme softness and excellence


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Luxury Yarns:- Lambswool

  • Mainly produced in Australia from Merino sheep

  • Taken from the first clipping of the sheep

  • Clipping causes the further fleece to toughen


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Knitting

  • Yarn is delivered to machines from yarn store

  • Peter Scott use three gauges of machinery:

    • 21gg / 12ndl - for finer gauge yarns

    • 15gg / 8ndl for the “bread and butter” sweater i.e. Lambswool

    • 9gg / 5ndl - for heavier weight of yarns

  • The higher the number of gauge the finer the weight of garment


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Knitting

  • The first step is the rib, skirts and cuffs, knitted with a slack course and draw thread

  • Rib are run on to bars, one stitch to one needle. A missed stitch would cause a drop stitch where rib the joins main panel


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Knitting

  • Plain Frames, BCI Intarsia Frames and Shima Seiki machines used in production of Peter Scott knitwear

  • Computer aided knitting, with 60 million colours available, using colours for different processes.


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Assembly

  • The first stage is called “Body Binding”

  • The knitting machines produce the various panels i.e. front ,back, sleeves

  • The top of the fronts and backs are binded along the shoulder in a similar fashion to the running on of the rib skirt

  • The sleeves are then attached in the same way by a fine seam so as not to irritate the shoulder of the wearer


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Assembly

  • Fronts, backs and sleeves joined, next step is to complete the side and sleeve seams, termed appropriately, seaming. Seams to be joined are fed through two cups (grooved wheels)

  • The wheels, level with each other, are used to keep the tension equal as the sweater passes through

  • The seaming mechanism adjoins the cups so the parts are seamed immediately on leaving the cups

  • The garment at this stage is still inside out



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Bar Tacking & Greasy Examination

  • The garment has now been assembled but before washing the ends of the seams must be tacked to prevent run back

  • This process is repeated until all the tails have been tacked and the tails removed

  • The garments are checked for flaws prior to washing

  • Flaws such as holes, knots, stains are all marked and rectified at this stage


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Weighing In & Milling

  • Ready for the wash the garments are sorted into bundles

  • First the neck trims are matched to the relevant bundles, then they are sorted into qualities and colours

  • The bundles are then weighed for costing purposes

  • The garments are then given an accurately controlled wash dependant on quality of yarn important for maintaining colour and handle

  • Garments are then rinsed thoroughly and tumble dried

  • Not completely dry the garments are ready to move on to the next stage


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Boarding:-Turning & Sizing

  • The term clean is given to the garments now they have been washed, from here every care is taken to ensure they remain meticulously clean

  • Received in a damp condition from milling they are turned the correct way around, tumbled to a completely dry state and sorted into their sizes

  • The garments are all knitted with a size mark or thread to differentiate their sizes

    • 36”=2 marks

    • 38”=3 marks

    • 40”=4 marks

    • 42”=1 mark


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Boarding:- Paris Press

  • The press can be compared to a body with two moveable arms

  • The arms are raised, the garment is pulled over the body, the arms are lowered

  • A pedal is then depressed which expands the machine to the size that coincides with that of the garment

  • The seams are then straightened and steam is blown through for a few seconds

  • A drying cycle then follows with the steam being vacuumed away

  • The garments are then removed, folded into “production fold” and sent forward with their respective trimmings



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Trimming

  • There are numerous operations in this department

    • Lock stitching is used for attaching ribbon to cardigan fronts

    • Button hole machines stitch a button hole then cuts the hole through the centre of the stitching

    • Buttons are then stitched on by another machine specifically made for the job


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Cutting

  • The operator places a cardboard shape on the garment, the outline of which is determined by the shape of neck required

  • The centre mark on the shape is aligned with the centre mark made at the knitting stage

  • The operator then cuts around the shape removing the piece of fabric at the neck

  • The waste move with the garment to be used for mending any holes that may occur


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Collar Binding

  • The collar is attached by the operator by running on the stitches to the points on the machine

  • The neck are of the garment is then run on, and for a second time the collar, creating a sandwich with the sweater in the middle

  • The parts are then linked together by the looper/needle mechanism

  • The next stage is to remove the “hold on” courses

  • The neck at this point are still unfinished and are forwarded to the hand sew department where the two ends of the collar are stitched together



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Looking (Examination)

  • Garments are given a thorough examination for flaws, using a magnifying glass

  • Types of flaws that can be found at this stage are

    • knots

    • thick or thin rows of knitting

    • foreign hairs, either spun in the yarn or picked up during manufacture

    • dirty marks or stains

  • Garments found to have any of the flaws above are rectified by the menders prior to being sent forward

  • Garments may be rejected as a “second” if the flaw was excessive


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Pressing

  • The garments are placed on the bottom of two beds, the upper being moveable

  • When the operator is happy the side seams and sleeves are straight and the collar pinned to shape the top bed is lowered

  • Steam is then passed through the garment for a few seconds

  • The top bed is lifted and the residual water is vacuumed away

  • Shirt collars are all individually hand ironed



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Final Examination

  • Final examination for any flaws that have gone unnoticed or occurred since the last check

  • The garments are all measured to ensure the article lies within the permissible dimensions, any discrepancies are adjusted in accordingly

    • This department is to ensure the garment is in perfect condition prior to despatch


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Tabbing and Stock Department

  • Once the garments are checked they are then ticketed, folded and inserted into polythene bags prior to being stored in the stockroom

  • The garments are now ready to tab, barcode where required, and ship

  • When the despatch dates arrive the order is checked against the original order, packed, invoiced and shipped to their destination


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Embroidery

  • Designs are sent in for logos, which can be anything from letterheads to other embroidered goods

  • Designs are scanned & transferred into instructions the embroidery computer will understand

  • Machines can embroider up to 12 garments at once

  • Almost any type of badge can be made from the simplest script to the more complex appliqué


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