Apparel-November2021

1. Follow uson www.facebook.com/cmaiapparel Vol.41-Issue11 NoVeMBeR2021 Celebrating indianTextiles Nila House isrevitalising traditionaltextiles “india has always beena fascination” An interview withCaroline Palmer, founder, Artisans ofFashion Wedding SeaSon RevSUp OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION OFINDIA

4. fromthepresident’sdesk DearFriends, After a very long time, the Apparel Industry seemed to be getting back on its track, with a very good Business seen during Diwali. On one hand, the PricesofYarnandFabricshavebeenincreasingonadailybasis,asalsothe otherRawMaterialswhichareusedinManufacturing,resultinginIncrease inthePriceoftheProduct.ItwillnotbeoutofcontexttosaythatthePrices have touched thesky. Onotherhand ,theGovernmenthasincreasedtheRateofGSTonthe Entire Textile Chain from 5% to 12% w.e.f. 01-01-2022, this is inspite ofCMAI,alongwithmanyotherAssociationsandTradeBodiesfromall over India have been vigorously representing to the Government and GST Council not to implement this change. And it is indeed extremely disappointingthatthe GST Councilhaschosennottoheedourpleaas thiswillleadtomassiveIncreaseinPricesofallGarmentsandmoresoin Garmentswhichweresellingatlessthan`1,000MRP. OnNovember23,2021,CMAIwillbeLaunchingitsArbitrationCellat YogiSabhagruh,Mumbai.Worldover,withLawCourtsbecomingtime consumingandexpensive,Arbitrationisbecomingoneofthemostsought after remedies to settle commercial disputes. With an Arbitration Award our Member can get a quasi-legal, validity to the Award, this will help our Members recover their Money faster which was otherwise difficult to recover. CMAI will also be Launching its Membership Card, which will entail DiscountstoourMembersatvariousDepartmentStoresandBrandsshop. On November 24-25, 2021, CMAI is holding its, first Vendor Sourcing Fair, atHotelSaharaStar,Mumbai.ThisisonemoreinitiativebyCMAI,toprovide aPlatformforitsMemberstotransactbusinesswithbigBuyersandBrands. ThisPlatformwillprovideopportunitiesforFactoriestodirectlyconnectwith Buyers who have potential to place Big Orders and the Buyer can connect withFactoriesfortheirPrivateLabels. We will continue in our Endeavour to serve our Members with innovative ways,whichwillbenefitthem,OnesuchProjectonwhichweareworking,is BillDiscountingandCreditInsurances! With WarmRegards, RajeshMasand HelpusimproveApparel.Pleasesendinyoursuggestionsandfeedbacktoapparel.spenta@gmail.com 2 I APPAREL I November2021

5. ȡ˜‡ȡȡȡȡš!! CMAI˜–Ʌ [€ȯ ǐ›f f€ kš Ǖǐ’ȡșȡ]” €ȯ €Ǖ† ”˜ȯ ÒɅ \Š€ȯ ¡Ǖf¡Ȱ,ǐ‡ €ȯ ǐš€šȣ€ȯ …ȡÛ ȯ  €˜ ¡Ȫȯ‡ȡš¡ȯ¡Ȱ? CMAI “ȯf€ f‡Ʌ Ȣ M/s KRRV €ȯ ȡ  ”Ȳ€[ ǐ€™ȡ ¡,Ȱ ‡Ȫ ]”€ȯ ]`ŠèŠɇǐŒ‚Ȳ €Ȫ ǐš€š €š“ȯ ˜Ʌ]”€ȧ˜‘‘ €š‚ȯ Ȣʨ —ȡš €ȧ ‡ȡ“Ȣ ˜ȡ“Ȣ €Ȳ”“Ȣ ‡Ȫ €_–€ɇ kš ^۞šǕÛ  €à”“Ȣ‡ €ȯ  ȡ €ȡ˜€šȢ ¡Ȱ ʨ ‡Ȣ“€ȯ jǐݕǐ   ȡšȯ ‘žȯ ˜Ʌ•Ȱ›ȯ ¡fǕ ¡,Ȱ ‡Ȣ“€ȯ ‡ǐšf¡«ȡšȪ šȣŠ›ȯ  [ €ȧ Đȯ ǐŒŠȨȸ“ ȯ €ȡ ”ȡ …›  €ȡ¡Ȱ \ǐ’€ ‡ȡ“€ȡšȣ €ȯǐ›f ”Ȳ€[ ĮȢ. Ĥ‘ȣ”˜¡ȯȡ €Ȩ› - 022-24390909,+917045626275 _-˜›ȯ ]™ŒȢ -CNA@CMAI.IN

6. contentsmarch2021 Follow us onwww.facebook.com/cmaiapparel VOL.41-ISSUE11 NOVEMBER 2021 report  09 CMAI’S 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair to Open Doors inNovember This Fair will give a chance to the manufacturers 11 CMAI holds 25th Ivy League Meeting The topic for the meeting was “MidTerm/ Long Term View on Rise in Demand for Non-EssentialProducts” 17 Fashion for aCause Manufacturer members of the association donated kids garments to the Lost& Found Foundation Celebrating IndianTextiles Nila House isrevitalising traditionaltextiles “India has alwaysbeena fascination” An interview withCaroline Palmer, founder,Artisans of Fashion 09 WEDDING SEASON REVSUP OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION OFINDIA CMaI OFFICeBeaReRs Mr Rajesh Masand, President andTrustee Mr Jayesh Shah, VicePresident Mr Rohit Munjal, VicePresident CMAINeWS Mr Santosh Katariya, Hon GenSecretary  Mr Naveen Sainani, Jt Hon GenSecretary Mr Ankur Gadia, HonTreasurer 12 CMAICapsule Mr Paresh Vora, Jt HonTreasurer Mr Premal Udani, Chairman, Board ofTrustees 11 The CLOThInGManUFaCTUReRs CoVerStorY  assOCIaTIOn OFIndIa Mumbai: 901, Naman Midtown, ‘A’Wing, 18 Wedding Season Revs Up Ahead of the marriage season, we look at the impact of the pandemic and the choices made by the Indianbride Behind Kamgar Kala Kendra, SenapatiBapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West), Mumbai - 400013. Tel: (022) 2439 0909, e-mail:info@cmai.in, Website:www.cmai.in Western Regional Office: 512,Gultekdi, Market Yard, Gate No. 8, Pune - 411037. Tel: (020) 24269382 Southern Regional Office: No. 212A,Swiss Complex, 2nd Floor, 33, Race CourseRoad, INDUStrYINSIGHtS  Bengaluru - 560001. Tel: (080) 2225 7966, e-mail:bglr@cmai.in 24 "India has always been a fascination" Caroline Poiner, founder of Artisans of Fashion (AOF) shares her thoughts on collaborating with textile artisans in India to create collections for the globalmarket Northern Regional Office: 2/44, OldRajinder Nagar, New Delhi - 110060. Tel: (011) 4503 2885, e-mail:delhi@cmai.in eXeCUTIVePUBLIsheR 18 ManeckDavar SPENTA MULTIMEDIA PVTLTD edITORIaL AssistantEditor JulieSam desIGn DeSIGNerprofIle  ArtDirector YogitaIyer 32 Celebrating IndianTextiles Nila House, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur,is a centre of excellence for revitalising traditional Indiantextiles DigitalImaging NinadJadhav CIRCULaTIOn &sUBsCRIPTIOn Bhairavnath Sutar:9892063731 circulation@spentamultimedia.com adMInIsTRaTIOn Senior VicePresident BobbyDaniel 24 fASHIoNSpeAK  MaRkeTInG Director Marketing & Sales GeetuRai Sudhir Valvara Mob:9821215361 38 Turning Goa into a fashionhub Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthana about turning the sunshine state into a fashion buzzhouse Sachin Desai Mob:9820425612 Mumbai - Tel: 2481 1044 Vijay Bhagat - Mob:9871271219 New Delhi - Tel: 46699999 M Selvaraj/Paneer Selvam -Chennai Sandeep Kumar Mob:9886870671 Bengaluru - Tel: 41618966 Pulak Ghosh Mob:9831342496 Kolkata - Tel: 40735025 reGUlArS  06 GlobalThreads A round-up of important news andevents 44 TradeAffairs Forthcoming events in the world ofapparel design, editorial andPrinting 38 spenta Multimedia PvtLtd Peninsula Spenta, Mathuradas MillCompound, Senapati Bapat Marg, LowerParel, Mumbai - 400 013. Tel: (022) 24811010 Fax: (022) 24811021. E-mail:ho@spentamultimedia.com COVER CREDIT BRanD: BhaVya COllECTIOn By lalITDalmIa Send in your ideas and contributionsto apparel.spenta@gmail.com APPAREL,themonthlymagazineofCMAI,Edited,PrintedandPublishedbyMr.ManeckDavaratSpentaMultimediaPvtLtd,PeninsulaSpenta,MathuradasMillCompound,SenapatiBapatMarg,LowerParel(W),Mumbai-400 013. Published from 902, Mahalaxmi Chambers, 22, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Mumbai - 400 026. The views and opinions expressed or implied by writers in APPAREL magazine are those of CMAI or Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd Unsolicited articles and transparencies are sent in at the owner’s risk and the publisher accepts no liability for loss or damage. Material in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the written consent of the CMAIor Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd

8. MaRkeTWaTCh India’s GDP could grow to 10-10.5 per cent in FY22: BrickworkRatings The Indian economy has been recoveringwell from the devastation caused by the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic, and most growth indicators are performing better on a year-on-year basis, according to Bengaluru-based Brickwork Ratings. It has revised its gross domestic product (GDP) estimates for fiscal 2021-22 to 10per cent-10.5 per cent from 9 per cent estimated earlier. The level of GDP in the economy is likely to reach close to pre-COVID-19 levels in the second quarter of fiscal 2021-22, it said. “We expect GDP growth for Q2FY22 at 8.3 per cent (year-on- year), on the back of a 7.4 per centcontraction in Q2FY21. The subsequent quarters too will see recovery if there is no resurgence of the virus in the form of a third wave,” the rating agencysaid. —ZeeNews @Shutterstock.com Over 100 global leaders at Glasgow pledge to end deforestation by2030 Over 100 global leaders fromcountries accounting for more than 85 per cent of the world’s forests have pledged to stop and reverse deforestation and land degradation by 2030 at the Glasgow Leaders’ Declaration on Forests and Land Use. The pledge is underpinned by close to $20 billion in public and private funds to invest in protecting and restoring forests. The joint statement at the COP26 climate talks in Scotland’s Glasgow will cover forests totaling more than 13 million squaremiles. —Reuters @Shutterstock.com Finland proposes clothing, shoe material labelling law to satisfyEU Finland proposed to Parliament a piece oflegislation on labelling of production material in footwear and textile products based on the European Union (EU) Market Surveillance Regulation, whichwould specify obligations of companies related to labelling of materials. The proposed law also enables the imposition of penalty payments for incorrect or deficientlabelling. The EU already requires that footwear and textile products clearly indicate what material the item is made of. A key objective of the reform is toimprove consumer protection, the press release said. It is due tocome into effect as of the beginning of 2022. —Fibre2Fashion @Shutterstock.com 6 I APPAREL I November2021

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10. MaRkeTWaTCh Kim Kardashian's Skims partners with Italy'sFendi for capsulecollection Kim Kardashian’s shapewear brandSkims and Italian luxury fashion house Fendi have collaborated to launch a new capsule collection. The limited-edition collection that brings together signature Fendi style codes and the aesthetic of Skims, features sculpting silhouettes, rich fabrics, bold colours and a special hybrid logo pattern that saturates key styles. Fendi and Skims share a desire to push boundaries, think differently and challenge convention which is why wefound so much common ground collaborating on this collection together,” said Skims founderKim. —The IndianExpress @Shutterstock.com California University confirms biodegradability of Austria's Lenzingfibres University of California’s research instituteScripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO) has confirmed the biodegradability of Lenzing fibres. The study published recently has established that wood- based cellulosic fibres biodegrade in the ocean within a short period of time at the end of their life cycle, making a better alternative to fossil- based fibres. The research was the result of an independent project trying to understand the ‘end-of-life’ scenarios for textiles and nonwovens discarded in theenvironment. —Fibre2Fashion Photo Credit:instagram.com Bangladesh Govt to bestow Green Factory Award to 15 apparelunits The Bangladesh government will honour 30companies, including 15 garment firms, with the Green Factory Award for their outstanding contribution to saving the environment and creating jobs, the labour ministry said recently. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina is expected to hand over the awards on December 8, 2021 to mark the celebration of the birth centenary of Father of the Nation, Sheikh Mujibur Rahman. The ministry introduced the award in 2020 to inspire more investment in industries but, at the same time, maintaining a greenenvironment. — The DailyStar @Shutterstock.com 8 I APPAREL I November2021

11. RepoRT CMAI’S 1stVendor Sourcing Fair toOpenDoorsinNovember The Association is Organising its 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair 2021 on November 24-25, 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total 83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in thisFair. This is One of a kind Trade Show that is being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Large and Regional Formats and Private Labels under One Roof. This Fair will give a chance to manufacturers to directly interact and workwith sourcing specialists from around the Country to deliver their customers more responsibly. The Exhibitors can also showcase their Expertise, Skill set, Design Sensibilities to Private Labels and Brand Owners. This Platform is also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists, buyers, heads of merchandising large format stores, regional large format stores andinternational and national single brand retail chains. Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore, Myntra, Amazon India and manymore. The Draw of Lots for Allotment of Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6.00 pm at the Office ofthe Association. Mr. Mukesh Jain, Chairman, Vendor Sourcing Fair accompanied by Mr.Jayesh Shah, Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, conducted the Function. The Stall Numbers allotted to the Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s Official Website - www. cmai.in along with the Floor Plan, Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's & Don’ts.The This FAir wiLLGive A ChAnCe ToThe mAnUFACTUrers To workwiTh soUrCinG speCiALisTs From AroUnd TheCoUnTry To deLiver Their CUsTomers more responsiBLy. Allotment Letters were also sent by E-mail to all the Exhibitorsindividually. All Exhibitors were requested to Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorily on their Mobile, Wear Face Masks at all times and maintain Social Distancing at the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelines given by the State Government prior to the above Function.

12. MarketWatch Indian textile industry to be worth $300 bnby 2025-26:Report The Indian textile industry is expected to beworth $300 billion by 2025-26, as the government pushes for Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme worth $1.42 billion for the setting up of 7 mega textile parks, and to increase the production and exports of man-made fibres. The country’s domestic textile industry dropped to $75 billion in FY21 from$106 billion in FY20. The focus areas suggested by the report include investment in value added services, e.g., marketing, warehouse rentals, logistics, courier, other product fulfilment costs; apparel industry-refund of input tax credit (ITC); and quicker alignment to GST regime, revised export incentives, and credit squeeze for SMEs adversely impactedexports. —BusinessToday @Shutterstock.com AP Govt urges mega textile park at Kopparti The government of Andhra Pradesh (AP)has urged Union textiles minister Piyush Goyal to establish a mega textile park at Kopparti in YSR Kadapa district of the state as part of the Central government’s plan to set up seven mega textile parks across the country. The state has also requested the minister to set up one of the three electrical equipment zones under the PLI scheme. The request was made by Andhra Pradesh industries and IT Minister Mekapati Goutham Reddy during a recent meeting with Minister of Commerce & Industry, Consumer Affairs & Food & Public Distribution and Textiles, Piyush Goyal.The state is also looking to have its share reduced from 20 per cent to 10 per cent in the Visakhapatnam- Chennai corridor, according to mediareports. —The HansIndia @Shutterstock.com Global fashion industry steps up climate ambition with renewedcharter ThefashionindustryisraisingitscollectiveambitionwithupdatedemissionreductiontargetsundertheFashionIndustry Charter for Climate Action. Announced recently at the COP26 meet in Glasgow, the renewed commitments form a decarbonisation plan aligned with Paris Agreement ambitions tolimit global temperature rise to 1.5 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. “This is an important milestone for the Fashion Charter, as it increases the ambition level in an effort to align the industry with 1.5 degrees. It is a signal that we need to work closely together with our peers, our supply chain, policymakers and consumers to get on the track to net-zero,” said Stefan Seidel of PUMA, who co-chairs the Fashion Industry Charter steeringcommittee. Further commitments in the updated charter include sourcing 100 per cent of electricity from renewable sources by 2030, sourcing of environment-friendly raw materials, and phasing out coal from the supply chain by 2030 amongothers. —WWD.com 10 I APPAREL I November2021 @Shutterstock.com

13. RepoRT CMAIholds 25th IVY LeagueMeeting mr. JAin & mr. dhALL BrieFed memBerson whAT The UpCominG opporTUniTies inThe GArmenT indUsTry posT Covid-19 erA CoULdBe. CMAI’s 25th IVY League Meeting was held on Friday, October 22, 2021 at The Orchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East), Mumbai. The Topic for the Meeting was “Mid Term/Long Term View on Rise in Demand for Non-EssentialProducts”. The Session was conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain, Partner & Head of LifestylePractice, India, A.T. Kearney. Consulting (India) Pvt Ltd, Gurugram accompanied by his Partner, Mr. Karan Dhall. Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman, IVY League Sub Committee welcomed the Members & Introduced theSpeakers. Mr. Jain & Mr. Dhall briefed Members on how the Non-Essential Products Marketwent down in the Covid-19 Era & what the Upcoming Opportunities in the Garment Industry post Covid-19 Era couldbe. This meeting helped IVY League Members how to grow their Business Module afterCovid-19 Era with the Solutions provided by the Speakers. The Presentation/Discussion was followed by a Q&A Session for the benefit of the IVY League Members. Forty IVY League Members attended the Meeting which was followed by Dinner. APPAREL I November 2021 I11

14. CMaICaPSULE NEWS RENEWAL OF MEMBERSHIP WITH THEASSOCIATION The Association has sent the Final Reminder dated November 10, 2021 to those Members who have not yet Renewed their Subscription for the Financial Year 2020-21. Members who have not renewed their Membership are once again requested to Renew their Membership before november 30, 2021. If the Renewal of the Subscription is not received by the Association by then, such Members shall cease to be a Member of the Association from that Date. The Association will be compelled to Stop Sending all information pertaining tothe Trade as well as Apparel. Any fresh Application for Membership cannot be entertained thereafter for a period of Six Months from the Date of Cessation. The Managing Committee has right to accept or reject such an Application if received for freshMembership. Members are therefore requested once again to kindly Renew their Membership urgently to enable the Association to provide undisrupted Services from theAssociation. The Association is also giving the Member an opportunity to avail the Benefit of Renewing the Membership Subscription for 1/3/5 years, the Details of which are asunder: PRIMARY ASSOCIATE, AGENT & DISTRIBUTORMEMBER 12 I APPAREL I November2021

15. CMaICaPSULE ORGANISATION RETAILER In case Members have any queries about the Renewal Process, please contact Mr Vijay Sharma, Dy. Secretary on his Mobile No. 9820593780 and/or by E-mail tomembership@cmai.in. CMAI’S 1ST VENDOR SOURCING FAIR(VSF) The Association is Organising its 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair 2021 on 24th & 25th November 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total 83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in thisFair. This is One of a kind Trade Show that it being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Large and Regional Formats and Private Labels under One Roof. This Fair will give a chance to directly interact and work with sourcing specialists from around the country todeliver their customers more responsibly. The Exhibitors can also showcase their expertise, skill set, design sensibilities to private labels ad brand owners. This Platform is also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists, buyers, heads of merchandising large format stores, regional large format stores and international and national single brand retail chains. Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore, Myntra, Amazon India and many more. The Draw of Lots for Allotment of Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6 pm at the Office of the Association. Mr. Mukesh Jain, Chairman, Vendor Sourcing Fair accompanied by Mr. Jayesh Shah, Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, attended the Function. The Stall Numbers allotted tothe Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s Official Website - www.cmai.in along with the Floor Plan, Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's & Don’ts. The Allotment Letters were sent by E-mail to all the Exhibitorsindividually. Prior to the above Function, Exhibitors were requested to Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorily on their Mobile, Wear Face Masks at all times and maintain Social Distancing at the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelines given by the StateGovernment. APPAREL I November 2021 I13

16. CMaICaPSULE CONCILIATION & ARBITRATION SUMMARY REPORT FOR THE PERIOD SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER2021. CMAI’S 25TH IVY LEAGUEMEETING CMAI’s 25th IVY League Meeting was held on Friday, October 22, 2021 at The Orchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East),Mumbai. The Topic for the Meeting was “Mid Term /Long Term View on Rise in demand for non- essentialProducts”. The Session was conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain , Partner & Head of Lifestyle Practice, India, A.T. Kearney. Consulting (India) Pvt Ltd,Gurugram accompanied by his Partner Mr. Karan Dhall. Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman, IVY League Sub Committee welcomed the Members & Introduced the Speakers to IVY League Memberspresent Mr. Jain & Mr. Dhall briefed Members how the Non-Essential Products Market went down in the Covid-19Era&WhatwillbetheUpcomingOpportunitiesintheGarmentIndustrypostCovid-19Era. This meeting helped IVY League Members how to grow their business module after Covid-19 Era with the solutions provided by theSpeakers. The Presentation/Discussion was followed by a Q&A Session for the benefit of the IVY League Members. Forty IVY League Members attended the meeting which was followed byDinner. 14 I APPAREL I November2021

17. CMaICaPSULE ACTIVITIES OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER2021 A brief Overview of the Activities of the Association which the Secretariat was able to accomplish during the Month of September 2021 has been sent to all Members on October 6, 2021 for the Information ofMembers. REPRESENTATIONS The Association sent its Representation to PMO, the Ministry of Commerce, Textiles & NITI Aayog highlighting the following Points: The international traders and yarn exporters who are exporting our precious raw materials out of the country need to be checked. There is an attempt to project lower domestic demand for cotton and yarn so that maximum quantity can be available forexport. This could lead to shortages as early as February 2022 – March 2022 next year leading crisis within theIndustry. We therefore request you to ensure calibrated export of cotton/cotton yarn. Say a ceiling of say 8.5% per month of last 3 years averageexport. Along with calibration, there must be 5% Export Duty on the same. The farmer is already protected by MSP and he has nothing to gain or lose by the current cottonprice. Stock limits have been introduced for various agricultural commodities, but, cotton has been kept out of it. Stock limits must be introduced not only for cotton, but also for cotton yarn which is an industrial rawmaterial. We further request that import duty on cotton be removed. This will augment domestic supply and ensure pricestability. It is noteworthy to stress here that the Garment Industry alone employs over 12 million people – a significant number of which as stated earlier arewomen. Together with the reported move of the GST Council to increase the GST Rates on Garments from 5% to 12% or perhaps 15%, the continued high prices of raw materials such as Cotton Yarn will spell the death-knell of this Industry. The Association submitted its plea for an urgent redressal to the above issue. The Association while congratulating the Government and the Ministry of Textiles for conceptualising the Production Linked Incentive Scheme (PLI Scheme) for Textiles, suggested to build a Garment Factory of the scale that the Govt is envisaging, the Investment required will be far lower than in the Sectors of the Textile Chain . As such CMAI recommended to the Govt to reduce the minimum investment required to Rs. 25 Crores and Rs. 50 Crores ONLY for the GarmentSector. The Association sent an Appeal dated November 8, 2021 to the PMO, Hon’ble Ministers of Finance, Textiles, Hon’ble State Ministers of Finance, Members of the GST Council, TXC, etc. on behalf of the Textile and Garment Industry enclosing therewith copies of Representations that have been submitted by several Associations ,Local, Regional, and Sectorial including CMAI. These Associations have represented the Govt on the similar lines of the aspects, CMAI underlined and emphasized the major submissions and urged the GST Council and Government to continue the existing Slabs of GST on Textiles & Garments till such time the revised Slabs are finalized, and then put the entire Textile Value Chain in the Merit Rate as may bedecided. APPAREL I November 2021 I15

18. CMaICaPSULE The Southern Regional Office sent a letter dated October 23, 2021 to all the Brands, on behalf of the Ready Made Garments Manufacturers from the State of Karnataka, regarding an update on the VDA matter (Variable Dearness Allowance) for2020-21. The Southern Regional Office also made a Representation to the Additional Chief Secretary, Labour Department, Government of Karnataka on October 28, 2021 requesting them to ensure that there is no mass unemployment many uneducated and under educated people , particularly, women who are takenonthepayrollofthecompaniesandgivenallstatutorybenefitsinruralareas. MEETINGS A Virtual meeting under the Chairmanship of Shri Upendra Singh, Secretary (Textiles) Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India was held on 8th November 2021 to discuss Issue related to Raw materials in the Textile Industry. The Meeting was attended by Senior Officials, Textile Commissioner, Representatives of CCI and other Stakeholders of the Textile Industry. Mr. Rajesh Masand, President attended the said Meeting on behalf of theAssociation. Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) Organised an Interactive Session on Production Linked Incentive Scheme notified for Textiles & Clothing Sector on Thursday, October 21, 2021, 11.30 am onwards on Virtual Platform. Ernst & Young (E&Y) was the Knowledge Partner of theevent. Mr Rajesh Masand, President and Mr Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor attended the Meeting on Virtual Platform. On this occasion, Shri Upendra Prasad Singh, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles delivered the Key- Note address. Shri Vijoy Kumar Singh, IAS, Additional Secretary, Ministry of Textiles delivered the Special Address and Shri Jay Karan Singh, Trade Advisor, Ministry of Textiles delivered the Concluding Remarks. The 24th Meeting of the Technical Advisory cum Monitoring Committee (TAMC) under Amended Technology Upgraded Fund scheme (A-TUFS) was held on 20th October 2021 under the Chairpersonship of the Textile Commissioner through Video Conference. Mr Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director attended the Meeting on behalf of theAssociation. CIRCULARS Cir No. 46/C-2 /21 dated November 1, 2021 sent to all Members in Mumbai & Maharashtra informing that the Public Health Department , Govt of Maharashtra issued Order dated October 26-28, 2021 advising Employees working in the Office and also people who are visiting the Office for work to wear Masks covering their Nose and Mouth Completely. The said Order also stated that the Employees working in the office should have completed both Doses of Vaccination and the Employer should collect their certificate of Vaccination. Since use of Masks has been made Mandatory, they should follow the Order strictly and if found without Mask, is liable to pay a Fine of Rs. 200/-. The above Orders in Marathi, Hindi & English Version sent tothe Members for their reference. Cir No. 47/ M -3/21 dated November 2, 2021 sent to all Members of the Association by e-mail enclosing therewith a brief overview of the Activities which the Association was able to accomplish during the Month of October2021. Cir No 48 & 48 –A / C-3/ 2021 dated 12th November 2021 both English and Hindi Version sent to all Members of the Association by E-mail informing the Arbitration Seminar being Organised by the Association on 23rd November 2021 between 3.00 PM & 6.30 PM at Yogi Sabhagruh, Opp: Dadar Station, Dadar ( E ) Mumbai 400 014 to explain the Arbitration Process” and fairness in the dispute resolution process by Experts/EminentLawyer. 16 I APPAREL I November2021

19. RepoRT Fashion for aCause Few Manufacturer Members of the Association generously Donated Kids Garments to the Lost & Found Foundation, who Organised a Fashion Show on October 23, 2021 at Radisson Mumbai, Andheri MIDC for the Orphan Kids to Support and Motivate them. It was a wonderful sight to see the Youngsters defy their circumstances and walk the Ramp full of Confidence and Josh. This was possible only because of heartwarming gesture shown by the Kids Manufacturers. CMAI, conveyed its sincere thanks for their support to this noble cause. APPAREL I November 2021 I17

20. CoveRSToRy HeerKothariexplorestheimpactofthepandemicandthechoicesmadebytheIndianbride Images Courtesy: Lalit Dalmia for Bhavya Collection; Qbik; AshaGautam Wedding Season RevsUp The KPMG 2021 report cites that the Indian wedding market is estimated at $50 billion. The figures continue to display a sharp surge in the years to follow. Those dreamy, fairy tale weddings took a devastating hit during the COVID-19 pandemic. Guest listshad to be downsized, allowing no more than 50 people at one point. While the pandemic has changed quite a few things across the industry, the modern day bride still sways towards an indulgent weddingoutfit. 18 I APPAREL I November2021

21. CoveRSToRy THE DECISIVEIMPACT In a conversation with Delhi-based designer, Lalit Dalmia, we learn, “A bride is very clear about what she wants to wear on her 'D-Day’! Right from her childhood, she’s introduced to fairytales and mythological narratives that propel her to subconsciously plan her dream outfit for her wedding day.” According to Lalit, pandemic or no pandemic, nothing can impact the bride's choice. “The wedding day is her day, and she reigns and rules the roost on that day!” henotes! Vrinda Sachdeva, founder of Qbik, echoes this sentiment. Bridal preferences havebecome practical without cutting out on the fanfare. Vrinda adds, “Today’s top bridal pick includes attributes like classic, timeless, traditional, value for money, and at the same time respect the craftsmanship. It’s fun meeting brides who aren’t spending oodles of time and money on their outfits. They thankfully aren’t considering these outfits to be the end of the world. They are thinking about wearability and versatility which in itself are big changes in perception. They don’t want super heavy attires that get dumped under the bed and just end up consuming space for years tocome.” APPAREL I November 2021 I19

22. CoveRSToRy THE COLORPALETTE One will always find the dynamic scheme colors, weaving interesting narratives on the bridal attire. The colors of joy and happinessmake an underlining statement in more than one way. Vrinda adds, “As a designer who tries to make collections without following seasons, I don’t follow color trends. Our country’s dynamic culture has so much to offer, that I’d love playing with color combinations and techniquesinstead.” Designers enjoy dabbling with the bridal palette. While red takes the lead, whites, greens, yellows, pinks, and purples are here to followsuit. Gautam adds, “Though pastel and muted shades are in, what is trending is twinning with your spouse. The designs are minimalistic, and the silhouettes comprise of an eclectic blend of modern design with traditionalworks.” Social media and the buzz around it means brides look for outfits that make you spend a second more on the ‘gram. This is why his client’s have a very defining of the idea of their D-Day. “Purples and mauves maybe the in colours, but why not play with them? Colours such as cherry red and maroons add cadence and opulence to the regal onset as demanded by theoccasion.” GorGeoUs GeomeTriCAL insiGhTs To inTriCATeFLorAL BoUqUeTs ThAT hAve Been AroUnd For yeArs mArk An emphATiC presenCe on The BridALATTire. The impact on fanfare plays a quintessential role in the design choices. Muted neutral tones, with minimalistic leanings, are outfit options that most brides prefertoday. Gautam Gupta from Asha Gautam, says, “The downsizing of weddings has a great impact on the fashion industry. In the industry, designers who’re only working on bridal wear or ethnic wear have suffered a colossal loss. The production of ethnic Indian wear, has hit the ‘pause mode’ due to the pandemic, and implementation of social distancing. Despite this weddings do take place, but the fanfare is greatly tonneddown.” EMBROIDERYOPTIONS The vivid and intriguing art forms of India come alive in the bridal trousseau. Gorgeous geometrical insights to intricate floralbouquets 20 I APPAREL I November2021

23. CoveRSToRy that have been around for years, mark an emphatic presence on the bridal attire. However, in recent times, the bridal lehenga adorns an important aspect of her life by highlighting a narrative on her specialday. Lalit takes pride in replicating thesenarratives. He goes on to add, “Those dreamy fairy-tales of kings and queens, and celestial godsand goddesses make their way into the bridal lehenga. The bride today wears her essence on her sleeve on herD-day.” APPAREL I November 2021 I21

24. CoveRSToRy The AmALGAmATion oF riCh GoLd ThreAds, GTrAdiTionAL zArdosi emBroideryCoUpLed wiTh CoLoUrs oF The dyes From BAndheJ, mAke For A BriLLiAnTComBinATion." Gautam is smitten by the regal weaves of Benaras and the gorgeous bandhej patterns. “The benarasi and bandhej weaveform an intrinsic part of the Indian culture. The amalgamation of rich gold threads, gorgeous traditional zardosi embroidery coupled with colours of the dyes from bandhej,make for a brilliant combination. The wonderful amalgamation of these elements will lead to trends that are inimitable and will never go out of fashion at the sametime.” Vrinda has been blending traditional weaves with defining embroidery patterns to set the bride apart. Vrinda adds, “Since 2019, we have been working with evergreen fabrics like Ikat weaves and Kashmiri embroidery. This results in a riot of colours, thatlooks extremely rich and luxurious. In a nutshell, the garment is well thought out and comprises an eclectic mix of patterns and designs that make a deifyingmoment on the bride’s D-Day. We also take pride in exploring dye techniques such as batik and bandhej, introducing them to our signature drapes andstyles.” 22 I APPAREL I November2021

25. CoveRSToRy THE STYLESTATEMENT Accessorising the bridal attire correctly is just as important. One cannot miss out on the know-hows of accessorising the attire. Gautam says, “Try to keep your jewelry simple and minimal with printed patterns. Try opting for a traditional potli bag or clutch bag that’s finished with elements of tradition. The jewelry options can be stubby tweaked whereby the bride can choose to have statement earrings or a statement ring to complete thelook.” Lalit goes on to state, “Plunging necklines are still in vogue. This can be suitably finished with a broad choker.” Vrinda of Qbik adds, “The heirloom pieces, however heavy or light, will never run their course! It doesn’t only add to the emotional factor, but adds to the oomph.” The Indian bridal attire in itself is a platform to showcase the myriad cultural nuances of India. Even though the artisanal ecosystemis unorganised, it rests on the designer’s shoulders to creatively elevate the stance of our mesmerising handlooms and artisanal output, by creatively staging thecreations. No pandemic can ever affect the course of the big fat Indian wedding or the preferences of the bride. It's only about how creative a designer can get about helping her put her best foot forward on herD-Day. APPAREL I November 2021 I23

26. inTeRvieW "INDIA HAS ALWAYS BEENA FASCINATION" Brinda Gill talks to Caroline Poiner, founder of the social enterprise Artisans of Fashion (AOF) and business enterprise Cloth & Co, based in Sydney, Australia, shares her thoughts on collaborating with textile artisans in India to create collections for the globalmarket Photographs Courtesy: Artisans of Fashion(AOF) WHAT DREW YOU TO THE TExTILE AND FASHIONINDUSTRY? I grew up in the textile/fashion industry in Australia so textiles have always been a big part of my life. The business was a third generation textile import business, mainly importing from Britain and Europe until my father inherited the business. He started to import from other parts of the world including India. Many years and many stories later, I decided to discover India and her textile treasures formyself. WHAT IS YOUR IMPRESSION OF INDIANTExTILES? India has always been a fascination, ever since I can remember. With such a rich and diverse culture, my travels throughout India only enhanced mypassion for 24 I APPAREL I November2021

27. inTeRvieW textiles and interest in the artisanal techniques. There is a strong connection with India and the Australian fashion industry, but this was mainly through export houses. This relationship was something I was keen to explore: how I could connect the designer and the artisan to co- create, open a designer's eyes to this incredible world of handcrafted textiles. To me, it was an opportunity for designers and craftspeople to gain an understanding of each other’s skills and create something trulyauthentic. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO ESTABLISH ARTISANS OF FASHION(AOF)? Artisans of Fashion (https://www. artisansoffashion.com) started as a passion project in 2012. I decided to immerse myself in India; traveling into villages andcommunities tounderstand the culture, the traditions and the techniques. It was through this understanding that I saw the opportunity for designers and artisans to share their knowledge and skills as expert collaborators in the process and to bring the two worlds together. I wanted to share this experience with designers to help them gain a better understanding in how to work withartisans APPAREL I November 2021 I25

28. inTeRvieW as equal partners and to create something with meaningful. Two years later, I founded Cloth & Co. (https:// clothandco.co/ ) with my daughter Daisy,who is equally passionate about India. Cloth & Co. was founded as a commercial venturewith a very specific purpose: one where we could create a successful business producing high quality apparel that had sustainability, women empowerment and social and environmental impact at thecore. this with contemporary design aesthetics. It is without a doubt that many of these craft techniques and the traditional knowledgecan convey sustainability practices in fashion, bringing a new perspective to the textiles and crafts of India. WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO WORK WITH ARTISANS ININDIA? During my early travels some 20 years ago, I fell in love with India, the people, ancient traditions, art and culture and the richness and diversity of the textiles. There was also the concern that for many of the techniques, without making them relevant, they were at the risk of being completely lost. India is renowned for the multitudeof craft practices that are traditionally rooted in a sustainable approach with naturalfibres and regenerative practices, providing a sound argument for exploring the possibilities aspart WHAT IS THE AIM OFAOF? AOF was founded as a platform to bridge the gap between Western designers and India’s textile artisans; educating as well as encouraging authentic, collaborative partnerships underpinned by dignity and mutual respect. The aim is to preserve the traditional knowledge and craft skills behind the exquisite textiles whilstharmonising 26 I APPAREL I November2021

29. inTeRvieW of a designer or brand's sustainability agenda. I knew from that first trip that I wanted to make this my life’s work and somehow I would make that happen. WHICH ARTISAN COMMUNITIES AND/ OR TExTILE TECHNIqUES HAVE YOU BEEN COLLABORATINGWITH? Over the years we have worked with artisan communities in Jaipur, Telangana, Bhuj, Varanasi, Santipur in West Bengal, Bihar and Assam (among others). We have worked with textile artisans, from a multitude of regions, producing a range of fabrics with diverse and distinctive regional techniques, generallymade withbeautiful natural fibres. All of the regions were selected based on techniques that aligned with designers’ interests as well as the accessibility and communication to support their capacity for a successful and sustainable partnership. This along with the relationships that I formed with artisan communities over the pastdecade. A region I have become increasingly interested in is Assam, after an intensive trip visiting weaving clusters in Bodoland under a public diplomacy initiative undertaken by the Indian and Australian Governments focusing on the export of erisilk and traditional textiles of Bodoland. For the past three or so years, I have been involved with 7Weaves Social in Assam, working on strategic development and international partnerships where I have played an active role in the development of marketing strategies and building relationships for access to the globalmarket. HOW DO YOU TYPICALLY WORK OUT DESIGNER-ARTISAN COLLABORATIONS? We are flexible in how we work, every situation is different but our main focus is ensuring that the engagement between the designer and the artisans is a positive one where both find the entire process and outcome a rewarding experience. We source textiles directly from artisans and present them to designers to give them inspiration. They may order exactlywhat APPAREL I November 2021 I27

30. inTeRvieW working with the mass manufactured fabrics many designers are working with. If the designer or brand is established on the principles of slow fashion and consciously sourcing then it is a much easier transition; for established designers and brands already in the ‘system’,pricing and timing can be an issue. However, with the urgent need to address the climate crisis and sustainability agenda, the artisan sector can play a powerful role and provide a motivation tochange theirways. So to answer this question — there are parallels between the contemporary Indian and the Australian aesthetic with all the beautiful lightweight natural fibre fabrics, particularly the gorgeous cottons, kala cotton and khadi. There is a fascination and growing appreciation for the craft details, particularly the storytelling and provenance play asignificant role in the consumer's perception of a garment. The more people understand craftsmanship, the more they will spend on agarment. they see or look to develop it to better suit their requirements. We have done several bespoke designs where we discuss the design composition, the technique and the yarn fibre, workingtogether with the artisan to create something new. I design the collections for Cloth & Co. We produce our organic cotton jersey collections in a factory outside Tirupur and also develop products based on the skillsets of the artisans or the locally availablefibres. IS THERE — BROADLY SPEAKING — AN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC REGARDING GARMENTS STITCHED WITH HANDCRAFTEDTExTILES? Australia is generally more conservative and will err towards the more understated but with exports to Europe and North America, thisis changing. Ultimately we still need to balance the cost and timelines. Working with handcrafted fabrics comes at a much higher pricethan 28 I APPAREL I November2021

31. inTeRvieW our approach. Trust is everything; this applies to everyone we work with. I also have an employee on the ground in Delhi, who has worked with me for almost six years. She knows how we work for both Cloth & Co. and AOF and upholds our principles. This helps when there are language barriers. COULD YOU TELL US ONE OR TWO COLLABORATIONS OF AOF THAT WERE PARTICULARLYFULFILLING? Every interaction is interesting and meaningful but the ones that are most fulfilling are when there is on-going work between a designer and artisan group. For several collections we workedwith a small group of bandhej artisans for Australian designer KITX that was facilitated by a young couple in Bhuj who were incredible with their understanding of the need-sets and their ability to deliver. Ikat weaves have been a favourite for several designers. we have a longterm partnership with weavers in Telangana who have been producing for us for manyyears. DO YOU FEEL THERE IS POTENTIAL FOR DESIGNERS FROM ABROAD TO COLLABORATE WITH INDIAN TExTILE ARTISANS? Absolutely, I believe that this will continue to grow, particularly with the new generation of designers and couture houses whoplace artisanal skills and cultural integrity at the heart of their brand philosophy. India is well-positioned to provide end-to-end apparel solutions, incorporating artisanal skills throughout the process. The demand for this willcontinue to grow with technology and the increasing number of entrepreneurs in the sector, traceability, transparency, and sustainability front of mind. WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF RUNNING SUCH ANINITIATIVE? There are many challenges which are usually founded in miscommunication and lack of understanding. First, I like to ensure that the designer or brand’s motivations for working with artisans are genuine. Also that they respect the integrity of the artisans and the techniques and want to collaborate in a truly authentic way. And of course, that the artisans will be credited and fairlycompensated. Working in this sector comes with challenges but after more than a decade I have become much better at pre-empting. We have very clear expectations when it comes to timeframes, payments and quality. We are very upfront when we enter into an agreement; despite it being a collaborative approach, it needs to be commercially viable to be sustainable sowe explain the implications of loss on both sides. We run through these details several times at each stage of the process and we are consistentin DO YOU ASSIST IN THE PRODUCTION OF THE STITCHEDGARMENTS? When working with artisans, it is desirable to produce the garments in India as opposed to other global production hubs like China or Indonesia to minimise the carbon footprint. Alternatively, production will take place in Australia, depending on the volumes and the nature of the designer or brand.Australia’s manufacturing has been predominantly offshore for many years now. There is a big push to localise manufacturing but for sustainable and artisanal textiles, India is our greatestsource. APPAREL I November 2021 I29

32. inTeRvieW COULD YOU SHARE YOUR OBSERVATIONS ON WORKING ININDIA? There is a new generation of Indian entrepreneurs, many who have grown up in the artisan sector and doing great work incommunication and utilising technology; however, I still believethere is a gap when it comes to collaborative work. The cultural nuances, the design aesthetic, colour palettes and quality expectations all require management. Having trusted partners or working with an organisation like AOFwith enough expertise and a good network of partners to provide the support your business needs takes the pressure off the relationship and ensures greater success. It is the trust in the relationship, the high level of communication and knowing the boundaries and expectations on both sides.There are cultural differences and expectationsthat with a lack of understanding can easily be the difference between an enriching and rewarding experience and disappointment or tremendous financialloss. Indian designers have the great privilege of not only having a deep understanding of the artisan culture but also access to the plethora of artisan techniques across the board and the ability to sit with artisans and develop their designs in a truly collaborative way. This is one of the challenges that Australian designers and brands face when it comes to the more distinct and elaborate developments, it’s another world that we don’t really have the opportunity to enter. My hope is that with more designers engaging with AOF and with artisans connecting through technology, we will be able to develop more elaborate designs in thefuture. COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT ANY RECENT PROjECTS ININDIA UNDERTAKEN DURING THEPANDEMIC. Work has been on-going despite the pandemic. Cloth & Co. has been working on the entire summer collection and in some cases where longer lead times are required we are developing our winter range; our partners in India have been amazing in ensuring we get our stock delivered in time. We had to improvise with sampling,pre- ordering our organic cotton and shift our timelines but with clear communication and understanding of expectations we have come through successfully. For AOF, we have also managed to keep up orders and collaborations with several artisan groups ensuring continuity ofincome. We have connected with a number of European designers who are developing designs with us through which we see a lot ofpotential. TELL US ABOUT YOUR FUTURE INITIATIVES. The pandemic has highlighted the need for us to diversify and expand our offer so we have been working on new developments and partnerships for the International market including some more accessible eri silk from 7 Weaves, are generative cotton farm project, hemp and kala cotton. We see opportunities for hand knits, tie-dye and hand print techniques so finding some versatile cloth and yarns isimperative. 30 I APPAREL I November2021

33. 901,NamanMidtown,‘A’Wing,BehindKamgarKalaKendra, SenapatiBapatMarg,Prabhadevi(West),Mumbai-400013. Tel. : +91 22 2439 0909 I Email : info@cmai.in, social@cmai.in I Website :www.cmai.in

34. FeaTURe 32 I APPAREL I November2021 Nila House, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur, is a centre of excellence for revitalising traditional Indian textiles. Brinda Gillwrites Images Courtesy: NilaHouse Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, effortlessly charms the visitor with itsformidable forts; regal palaces; majestic monuments; museums of prized art, craft, textile and cultural centres; delicious cuisine; wonderful shopping; colourful festivals; and the gracious hospitality of its residents. The planned city was founded in 1727, by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (reign 1699–1743) who was a patron of architecture, arts andcrafts. Celebrating IndianTextiles

35. FeaTURe NILAHOUSE Textile lovers visiting Jaipur can indulge in a memorable array of experiences from shopping at colourful bazaars with a choice of handmade textiles to viewing exquisite crafts, arts, new and vintage textiles and attire at galleries,cultural centres, museums, monuments, and heritage and palace hotels. One of the newest experiences in the city’s craft landscape is the lovely NilaHouse — a restored and revitalised heritage home — now a centre for celebrating handmade Indian textiles. “Lady Bamford Foundation was founded in 2016 by Lady Carole Bamford, a patron of handmade crafts and textiles, and organic farming and products, as a CSR initiative of JC Bamford (JCB) India Limited. JCBhas remained committed to India for more than three decades and its CSR programs haveworked on development initiatives with a focus on disadvantaged communities around JCB factories in India. Nila House, which is part of The Lady Bamford Foundation, was established in 2016 to further this mandate with a focus on the artisan communities of India” says Anuradha Singh, Head, NilaHouse. A DREAM COMETRUE Creating Nila House was the realisation of a 25-year old dream of Lady Carole Bamford, who travelled to India decades ago to know the country and study meditation. She met with artisans; observed their skills; and deeply appreciated their hand work, hand-spun and hand-woven fabrics. Her experiences lefther with a wish to establish a centre of excellence to promote Indian crafts and textiles, for people to come and see what can be done in India. And Nila House is a result of thatwish. Keen to restore an old structure (to give an existing building a new lease of life rather than having a new building constructed), LBF had a stately single-storey bungalow, built in the 1950s in Jaipur’s C-Scheme, restored. Architect Bijoy Jain and his team worked on the project(2017- APPAREL I November 2021 I33

36. FeaTURe The TeAm TrAveLLed To meeT wiTh ArTisAns, ArTisTs, desiGners And nATUrAL dyers wiTh An Aim To howCAse whAT is possiBLe in indiA wiTh hAnd- spUnyArns 2019), using traditional materials and techniques, to create an elegant centre exuding space and serenity in its airy, white-painted rooms and open- to-sky innercourtyard. The building has dedicated spaces for workrooms (for hand-spinning, block-printing, natural dyeing), workshops (in rooms around the inner courtyard), exhibitions, an archive (with swatches of undyed and naturally dyed handwoven textiles of different counts with emphasis on handwoven fabrics with handspun yarns), a library, a shop, and an annexe forartist residencies. Nila House opened in October 2019, and has since been a venue for exhibitions and workshops; a space for artisans topractise their craft; and a centre for artisan-designer collaborations, and other like-mindedindividuals. AIM OF NILAHOUSE “The work on Nila House commenced in 2016 before the physical space was ready. The team travelled to meet with artisans, artists, designers and natural dyers with an aim to showcase to the world what is possible in India with hand-spun yarns, hand-woven fabrics and natural dyes”, says Anuradha. Nila House opened its doors in October 2019 with an inaugural collaborative collection with well-known UK-based designer Anna Valentine, who engaged with artisans working with natural dyes and shibori to work on the designergarments. Once Nila House opened, the team supported farmers cultivating indigenous cotton, having this cotton transported to spinners and subsequently to natural dyers and handloom weavers,thus 34 I APPAREL I November2021

37. FeaTURe INDIGO As the name Nila — meaning blue — suggests, Nila House is focused on working with natural indigo dye, a dye that has been historically part of the palette of Indian artisans (as theplant is indigenous to India and artisans have long obtained beautiful tones of indigo for dyeing yarns and textiles fromit). Nila House has worked with artisans to explore motifs and patterns that can be block-printed; yarns and cloth that can be dyed with natural indigo; and textiles that can be embroidered with yarn dyed with natural indigo. Nila House is also working with other natural dyes for their beauty, their attributes and their associations with Indian culture, beliefs andtextiles. Though indigo has long grown in India, introduction of synthetic dyes in the 19th century (and other factors) forced the cultivation of indigo to decline. In this context, NilaHouse is supporting farmers in cultivating indigo and encouraging dyers to work with it. Anuradha explains, “In line with Nila’s greatervision of reintroducing natural dyes into the craft ecosystem of India, particularly natural indigo, we are encouraging and supporting artisan communities to cultivate indigo, extract it and further help set up and maintain natural indigo vats. Nila is also growing indigo todocument creating a farm-to-fabric value chain. This chain is further extended, by having garments stitched at small units and training women to stitch garments so that a farm to finished garment valuechain is established. All these efforts have created the bedrock of Nila House’s objectives of celebrating and preserving India’s rich heritage of traditional textiles; initiating conversations with artisans from different communities specially hand- spinners, hand loom weavers, and natural dyers; and creating a platform and space for creative exchange andcollaborations. APPAREL I November 2021 I35

38. FeaTURe The TeAm orGAnizednAvrAnG ChALLenGe An onLine CompeTiTion ForArTisAns on The Theme oF BUiLdinG AwAreness ABoUTimporTAnT issUes and experiment — harvest and extraction — from seed to dye. Our aim is to collaborate with traditional artisans to combine their extensive knowledge of age-old-dyeing traditions with the research capabilities of ourteam." The team organised Navrang Challenge, an online competition (to create handcrafted posters using textile techniques), for artisans on the theme of building awareness about important issues; hosted Revisiting Traditions, an exhibition wherein five artisans from Kutch used natural indigo as a colour of expression and identity to create textiles representative of their traditional skills (hand-spinning, hand-weaving, dyeing, resist-dyeing); and created an online presence for the products of NilaHouse. An exhibition, Legacy of Textiles, displayed the private collection of textiles of Shri Brij Bhasin, ex-IPS officer deputed to the Ministry of Textiles, who has a passion for handmade textiles and has collected handmade textilesfor INTERACTIONS ANDENGAGEMENTS Though the Covid-19-related pandemic and lockdowns within a few months of Nila House’s inception led to slowing down of activities, the team continued to organise programs, workshops and exhibitions — at the premises and virtually — as possible within the parameters of the prevailing situation. The team connected with artisans (working with natural dyes, hand-spinning of yarn, hand-weaving), farmers (growing natural indigo and indigenous cotton) and like-minded NGOs (Avani, Antaran and Khamir) to engage with artisans, offer support, and conduct up-skilling programmes andtrainings. 36 I APPAREL I November2021

39. FeaTURe Building on the activities held since its inception, Nila House aims to continue to provide a creative and intellectual space for artisans, designers, craft and textile lovers, and visitors, and to help drive and contribute to the efforts of handmade and sustainability in India. Nila House demonstrates the possibilities of exploring Indian textiles and textile techniques and how these centuries-old techniques can be mastered to create stylish apparel and accessories with an internationalappeal. over 40 years. “The aim of the exhibition is for visitors to study the beauty of handmade Indian textiles and understand how traditional craft can inspire innovation and can be translated into a contemporary format for the consumer of today,” saysAnuradha During the lockdown Nila House worked with hand-spinners in Govindgarh, Rajasthan and with ground support from Khamir in Kutch, Gujarat. “The team identified older women hand-spinners in Govindgarh and Kutch, working withthem to enhance their skills. Further, these women who had the traditional knowledge to spin were asked to train younger women in their local community to hand-spin local cotton. Nila House has pledged to purchase all the hand-spun yarn during these interactions and trainings with the local community spinners. This initiative also supported our mandate to empower our women artisans and support income generation through employable skills,” addsAnuradha. NILA CONNECT Nila House is building Nila Connect, a directory of artisans, social enterprises and independent brands, who create high-quality handmade textiles and crafts, across India. This directory is uploaded on the Nila House site and will be continually updated. The initiative conveys the efforts of Nila House to create a networkof artisans, and for textile and craft lovers as well as customers to connect with artisans directly in a spirit of sharing andcollaboration. APPAREL I November 2021 I37

40. FaShionSpeak Turning Goa into a fashionhub Meher Castelino speaks to Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthana about turning the sunshine state into a fashionbuzzhouse Photo courtesy: PallaviOjha

41. Fashionspeak The late Wendell Rodricks turned the beach resort state Goa into an haute fashion destination in 1996, when he opened the first designer store in Panjim. Since then, Indian designers have flocked to this holiday state selling their fashion stories to the locales as well as the international buyers. In 2018, two fashion mavericks, co-founders, Pallav Ojha, CEO and Neha Asthana, Head of Fashion of COMO Designers Collective opened its doors in Goa and turned the state intoa one-stop shopping centre for fashionistas. With two successful branches of the store in Goa, and one in Nepal retailing over hundred national and international brands, it was but natural that Pallav Ojha would bring back to Goa, the much loved Wendell Rodricks label, which was silent after the designer’s untimely passing away in February 2020. WENDELL RODRICKSFASHION CONTRIBUTION Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthana described the reason for the Wendell Rodricks label launch and their future plans for Goa as a fashionhub. “Wendell Rodricks has inspired many people and especially for a brand like us to make an impact with the idea of India to the world. Post his demise, his admirers felt like it was the end of an era. We were really happy to know Purple Style Lab’s (PSL) brand acquisition and their desire to take the brand to the next level all overagain! We worked on the retail tie-up and business models with PSL to bring the brand back to Goa and offered it “LIVE long” once again! The WR brand will be exclusive with us in Goa and we are working on the vision of the brand for thestate.” According to the duo, the buyers loved the new Sea Glass Collection, which had a greatresponse APPAREL I November 2021 I39

42. even on the classics and shoppers have loved the brand’s new positioning sofar! Inspired by the ocean's greatest marvels, the Sea Glass collection features timeless styles made in handloom cotton (100’s Khadi). Manmade trash turned to treasures by the ocean; sea glass is beautifully carved out of carelessly discarded glass. The colour palette is primarily made up of Mist White, Fiji Yellow, Coral Pink, Belize and Mineral Gray hues with accents of Deep Sea Blue and DarkWaters. Every piece looks as good as it feels, and can be worn season after season with already-paired separates or the ones in yourwardrobe. Pallav is aware the impact the late designer had. He single-handedly put the tiny Indian state of Goa on the fashion map. He adds, “Wendell was the first person to coin the word, ‘Made in Goa’. He made the brand ‘Goa’international across fashion weeks and global runway platforms. Wendell worked on the notion that clothing should be comfortable like second skin. Wendell also revived the weaving of the traditional Goan Kunbi Sari, with a two-year project involving identifying and training weavers in the use of sari looms.” PIONEERINGEFFORTS Along with being a pivotal designer who shaped contemporary design in the Indian fashion industry, Wendell was an author, environmentalist, and a vocal advocate of all that he believedin. The Wendell Rodricks Signature Style Keep it simple — the label’s DNA liesin creating silhouettes that transcend seasons, and styles you can reach for time and timeagain. Fused with minimal detailing and understated elegance and versatility is at the centre ofevery 40 I APPAREL I November2021

43. From deFyinG norms To mAkinG wAves in The environmenT-FriendLy FAshion seGmenT, wendeLL hAs Been known To ALwAys inTrodUCe someThinG Fresh To The mAsses ThAT CATer To menAnd women new collection and passing the same to the WR team. We also wish to target the new consumers and millennial audience, who want to live in style andpanache.” Wendell Rodricks creation. Carefully crafted with luxurious, fluid, and breathable fabrics, the designs bring forth Wendell’s Goan heritage and unique design aesthetic. From defying normsto making waves in the environment-friendly fashion segment, Wendell has been known to always introduce something fresh to the masses that cater to both men and women, with a focus on meticulous craftsmanship and investmentpieces. FUTURE PLANS FOR THELABEL Speaking about future plans for the brand, the duo said, “We plan to have WR presence across all our COMO stores. We also want to create Wendell’s experience zone in the store with his classics, latest collection,footwear, accessory, jewellery, his written books and other memorabilia. We are constantly taking feedback from our clients across Wendell’s Classicsand FASHION RETAILING INGOA Established in the year 2018 from GOA,COMO APPAREL I November 2021 I41

44. Fashionspeak in The LAsT Three yeArs, The sTore hAs emerGed As The mosT desiredshoppinG desTinATion For AFFLUenT FAshionisTAs As weLL AsA LArGe nUmBer oF yoUnGsTers LookinG For exCLUsiviTyALonG wiThAFFordABiLiTy. Designers Collective is a one-stop destination with a complete range of handpicked collections from designers across the world. The product category spans across clothing, accessory, jewellery, handbags, foot wear, skin care, gifting and other fashion essentials. The store believes in the philosophy of exclusivity,individuality and affordability under all brand verticals. In the last three years, the store has emerged as the most desired shopping destination for affluent fashionistas as well as a large number of youngsters looking for exclusivity along with affordability. However the enterprising duo reveals, “The market size is small but if you are focussed on your target group, the volumes and numbers are very high. The focus is on this niche, hence we could multiply with multiple stores. We focus on the travellers, outsiders now turned into locals. When people are on holiday they splurge and we are the destination store for them to get everything under oneroof.” The price points vary from `999 to `14,999 however the sweet spot in the pricing of`5,000 – `7,000 that sells the most in a ratio of 70% women’s and 30% men’swear. 42 I APPAREL I November2021

45. Fashionspeak in established hotels and hospitality chains as COMO Getaway Stores as the target audience is already present in these places andwant to indulge. COMO Cafe will bring the best of culinary experiences across all ouroutlets.” Marketing fashion in Goa means constant designer launches, open house events with close customers, wine and cheese sessions, designer of the month etc. at the store level. “We are very active on our Instagram and relevant print network for advertisements and editorials,” saysNeha. Commenting on the future of fashion and plans for the Wendell Rodricks label, Pallav states, “Indian fashion is more focussed now into the smaller cities and destinations where people want to be present and seen. We plan to take the WR brand across all our stores. By end of the fiscal year 2021-2022, we aim to be present across 10 new hospitality chains and luxury hotels apart from making our flagship stores in Goa and Nepal, a one-stop destination for people to indulge in fashion and culinary experiences.” HOLIDAYDESTINATION As a retail destination, Pallav feels, “We are catering to travellers and people who have settled in Goa from across the world, a lot of them have made Goa their home. Post Covid-19, Goa has seen a huge influx from people from Tier A and B cities settling down in Goa. Work from home is a great concept sitting by the beach or the poolside in Goa. People have chosen quality of life post COVID-19. This has helped us a lot to make our store the only fashion destination store. We have also started catering to local Goans now with our day wear as well as whitebrides.” FUTURE FASHIONPLANS The lockdown did cause problems for fashion stores all over India as well as in Goa but Pallav reveals, “We were building! We were working on our strategies, our product line, designing and constructing new stores andassociations and also launched our global online portal www. comocollective.com. We are also launching COMO Cafe across all our outlets, which pushes us to get a lot more footfalls as well bepresent APPAREL I November 2021 I43

46. TRadeaFFaiRS TRADEAFFAIRS @Shutterstock.com ECavleenndtasr aPPaReL BRINGS YOU A QUICK LIST OF THE FORTHCOMING FAIRS ANDEXPOS. DeCeMber2021 PERFORMANCE DAYS FUNCTIONAL FABRIC –2021 december 1 to 2,2021 PERFORMANCE DAYS is synchronised with the industry's deadlines making it possible for designers, product, purchasing and material managers to perform sourcing. The latest trends and innovations in the functional fabric industry are on display from more than 290 quality exhibitors. PERFORMANCE DAYS will attract international manufacturers and well-known sportswear and active clothingbrands. VenUe I Messe München deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IMunich, Germany GARTEX TEXPROCESS INDIA2021 december 3 to 5,2021 Gartex Texprocess India will showcase products, services, and technologies related to the complete production chain. The event includesGarment & Textile Machinery, Trims, Accessories, Denim, Laundry Show, Digitex, Embroidery Machinery, and showcasing of various equipment. VenUe IPragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy IDomestic CITy INew Delhi INDIA ITME 2021 december 8 to 13,2021 India ITME will offer unmatched business to exhibitors as the Indian textiles industry which is set for strong growth, buoyed by strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. It will open windows to various business verticals in the form of leads, contacts inquiries on a massiveplatform. VenUe IIndia Exposition Mart deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy IGreater Noida, India FESPA EURASIA2021 december 2-5,2021 FESPA Eurasia 2021 is a trade show, presenting business opportunities, networking and sourcing for individuals and companies within the screen, digital and textile printing and signage communities. FESPA Eurasia includes large format digital printing, screen printing, textile printing, signage, car wrapping, 3D printing, commercial printing, display, LED,print and signage software, consumables and more. A must-visit if you are an international printer, designer, print buyer, retailer, interior designer, fashion brand or print professional, it offers the very latest products, innovations and information from over 500brands. VenUe I Istanbul Expo Center (Istanbul FuarMerkezi) deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IBakırköy in Istanbul, Turkey THE 8TH CHINA HOMELIFE AND MACHINEX INDIA 2021 december 9 to 11,2021 China Homelife India brings together thousands of buyers and Chinese manufacturers on a common platform. This year, China Homelife India will display products in categories across furniture, textile & garments, home appliances, household items, gifts and many more sectors. The exhibition is supported by CII who will organise a one-dayconcurrent 44 I APPAREL I November2021

47. TRADEAFFAIRS THE LONDON TEXTILE FAIR2022 january 11 to 12,2022 The London Textile Fair provides manufacturers and their agents with the opportunity to showcase their products to the most influential British buyers and designers. The show is one of the top industry events within the UK with an increasing international appeal. VenUe IBusiness Design Centre deMOGRaPhy I International CITy ILondon, UK conference on how the business with India and China is progressing and avenues for joint ventures, cooperationetc. VenUe IBombay Exhibition Centre (BEC) deMOGRaPhy IDomestic CITy I Mumbai,India INTEX SOUTH ASIA2021 december 9 to 11,2021 Intex South Asia is the largest international textiles sourcing show in South Asia. It is created to fulfill the growing demand for innovative, smart and trendy textiles for the developing textiles and apparel industry of our region, which caters to large domestic as well as export markets. VenUe IPragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy IDomestic CITy INew Delhi, India PSI2022 january 11 to 13,2022 PromoTex Expo 2022 will mark the fourth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear.The expo forms part of an unparalleled international event for advertising and selling, making it possible to bundle and display textile, haptic and visual communication options under oneroof. VenUe I Yet to be decided deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IDüsseldorf, Germany JANUArY2022 GARMENT TECHNOLOGY EXPO -2022 january 7,2022 Garment Technology Expo’s flagship event, GTE,New Delhi covers segments of the industry. Right from the latest technology machines to machine spares& consumables to latest processes & systems; from raw materials to trimmings & embellishments, this event is a premier destination for buyers, wholesalers/dealers, manufacturers and corporate decisionmakers. VenUe I NSIC Exhibition Complex,Okhla deMOGRaPhy IDomestic CITy INew Delhi PROMOTEX EXPO2022 january 11 to 13,2022 PromoTex Expo 2022 will mark the fouth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear. Together with PSI and viscom Dusseldorf, the expo forms part of an unparalleled international event for advertising and selling, making it possible to bundle and display textile, haptic and visual communication options under oneroof. VenUe IMesse Düsseldorf - P2 Am Staad, 40474 Düsseldorf,Germany deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IDüsseldorf, Germany APPAREL I November 2021 I45

48. TRADEAFFAIRS JUNIOSHOW2022 january 12 to 15,2022 JUNIOSHOW, which is the brand meeting of baby and kids apparel industry, will be organised by Tüyap Bursa Fairs Organization Inc and Bursa Chamber of Commerce and Industry (BTSO) in cooperation with Baby Kids Apparel Industrialists and Businessmen Association (BEKSİAD. The show will present more than 10,000 models in spring-summer collection between the ages of 0 - 12 at the booths, thus combining quality-oriented production withdesign. VenUe I Tüyap Bursa International Fair and Congress Center deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IBursa, Turkey chance to demonstrate and introduce most recent products and new developments. Purchasers can peacefully get an overview of the overall supply and build their inventories in the best possibleway. VenUe I DGI-huset Vejle, deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IVejle, Denmark APPAREL SOURCING USA2022 january 25 to 27,2022 Apparel Sourcing USA is an event showcases product from apparel brands, retailers, wholesalers, and independent design firms a dedicated sourcing marketplace for finding the best domestic and international apparel manufacturers. Apparel Sourcing USA products like activewear, denim, dresses, gloves, hats/headwear, intimates/shapewear, jewellery, knits/tops, labels, loungewear/sleepwear, outerwear/coats, pants/bottoms, polo shirts/shirting, scarves/shawls, socks/hosiery, suiting, sweaters, swimwear/resortwear, ties/ascots, T-shirts and workwear. VenUe IJacob K. Javits Convention Center deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I NewYork, USA DHAKA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE & GARMENT MACHINERY EXHIBITION2022 january 22 to 23,2022 Dhaka Int’l Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition is the largest-ever trade fair of its kind in Bangladesh. This event will showcase a variety of equipment, products, technologies as well as services and information concerning all the textile & garment processing and productionaspects. VenUe I International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IDhaka, Bangladesh febrUArY2022 74TH NATIONAL GARMENTFAIR February 1 to 3,2022 CMAI’s India’s Most Popular Spring/Summer Apparel Trade Show will be held from February 1 to 3, 2022 at Hotel JW Marriot Mumbai Sahar, Near Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Andheri ( East ) Mumbai 400099. VenUe I Hotel J W Marriot, MumbaiSahar deMOGRaPhy INational CITy IMUMBAI, INDIA TEX-STIL2022 january 15 to 17,2022 Tex-Stil - Vejle 2022 is one of the biggest trade dair of textiles, yarns, decoration materials, sewing machines, curtains. This event will be continuing for the duration of three days in Vejle, Denmark. At the show, geta 46 I APPAREL I November2021

49. TRADEAFFAIRS PRINTWEAR AND PROMOTION LIVE2022 February 20 to 22,2022 Printwear and Promotion Live will feature around 150 suppliers from all sectors of the garment and product decoration market, including around 60 clothing brands and distributors, as well as all the major decoration equipment and accessories suppliers covering directly to garment, transfer, sublimation, screen printing, and embroidery. VenUe I National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham,UK deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IBirmingham, UK THE MOST INSPIRING NORDIC INTERIOR & DESIGN FAIR2022 February 3 to 6,2022 The Most Inspiring Nordic Interior & Design Fair is a platform to experience creative, unique and visually strong trend zones filled with inspiration for attendees and their store. It will provide a platform for attendees to explore products like lighting, sustainable products, garden and outdoor, diverse textiles, wellness, branding articles, kitchen and tabletop, home accessories, shop furniture, gallery, festival, fashion accessories, and muchmore. VenUe IMCH Messecenter Herning, Herning, Denmark deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy IHerning, Denmark CMAI’S FAB SHOW – FABRICS, ACCESSORIES &BEYOND February 22 to 24,2022 This one-of-a-kind trailblazer of a show is being launched by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) to bring the entire apparel industry, and its complete supply chain under one roof. This will be a unique platform for all participants to showcase their products or services. It will facilitate any apparel manufacturer to source all inputs required – from fabrics to accessories, services, and machinery andbeyond. VenUe I Jio World Convention, Centre G- block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (East), Mumbai400051 deMOGRaPhy INational CITy I Mumbai, India PROJECT LAS VEGAS2022 February 14 to 17,2022 Representing what’s new, now, and next in men’s and women’s contemporary apparel, footwear and accessories, PROJECT Las Vegas is where domestic and international buyers go to be inspired by higher-end brands, find margin-building products from relevant mid-market labels, and connectwith likeminded industry thought leaders and fashion insiders. Through a fusion of community, education, media, and experiences, PROJECT Las Vegas propels the next season’s top trends, generates global awareness, and ultimately, drives commerce. VenUe I Las Vegas ConventionCenter deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I LasVegas, USA For more information, log on towww.fibre2fashion.com In lieu of the ongoing Global Health Emergency due to COVID-19 & travel restrictions imposed on various countries, we request you to check the actual status of the event directly with the organisersfirst. APPAREL I November 2021 I47

50. It’s time to gift yourself a goodread. As theysay… WHENEVER YOU RE A D AGOOD MAGAZINE SOMEWHERE IN THEWORLD A DOOR OPENS TO ALLOW IN MORE LIGHT Subscribe V 9PA OLUME 60 ISSUE GES 38r60 SEPTEMBER2021 Now ORGANISATIONAL DESIGN A REVOLUTIONARYTRANSFORMATION THE WINNINGFORMULA Stéphane JGGirod PUT ‘DESIGN’ INTOACTION Dr Penny Pullan For information on subscriptionand advertising pleasecontact: 2nd Floor,PeninsulaSpenta, Mathuradas Mill Compound, SenapatiBapatMarg, Lower Parel, (West) Mumbai400013, Tel. No. : +9124811010 Ext No: 1031/1024 circulation@spentamultimedia.com