Download
1 / 6
60 likes | 69 Views
When one thinks of antique Art Deco jewelry, one firstly thinks of Platinum and Diamonds. In the early 1900's as Americans grew more wealthy, diamond jewelry again became very popular; and with the resolution of the political situation in S. Africa, then the biggest producer of diamonds, an all diamond style - whiter than ever before - emerged. This new whiteness in antique Art Deco jewelry was the result of the use of platinum, which is a practically unoxidizable material, unlike silver which had been previously used.
E N D
1/ Art Deco Platinum & Diamond Bracelet This mating of diamonds and platinum in the antique jewelry of the early 1900's was revolutionary; each material enhanced the unique properties of the other. And many would argue this style in antique and vintage jewelry has been the twentieth century's most significant contribution to the history of jewelry. Previously in early antique jewelry mounts had been made of gold, and then a silver top was applied before diamonds were set, but over a time silver started to turn a charcoal color due to oxidization.
2/ Edwardian Platinum, Diamond & Carved Chalcedony Pansy Brooch Circa 1915 The most popular vintage jewelry pieces from the early 1900's in this new 'platinum' style were dog collars, latticework bodice ornaments, and lavalieres (named after Duchess Louise de la Valliere, one of the favorites of Louis XV) The source of these vintage jewelry designs came from the English, French and Spanish Court dress of earlier centuries. These first pieces of platinum antique jewelry were composed predominantly of small diamonds, and very often the designs were highlighted with calibre-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds.
3/ Platinum & Diamond Fringe drop necklace. Circa 1915 In the USA in the early part of the Twentieth century. a demand for great art and magnificent estate jewelry developed simultaneously. And the trend for antique jewelry connoisseurs had turned to the extravagant. An example of this was the American heiress Helen Gould on her marriage received a gift (described in the February 1913, Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review) was an antique jewelry piece of a diamond bow knot 12 inches wide with diamond ribbons 1 inch thick.
4/ Art Deco Platinum & fancy cut Diamond ring with calibre onyx & emeralds For Estate jewelry from this time period, as with earlier antique jewelry pieces, French Jewelers were generally considered the best, and Americans traveling abroad accounted for half of these antique jewelers income. The collection of duty on estate jewelry pieces was to say the least erratic and very hard to enforce. It was difficult for officials to distinguish from new purchase of estate jewelry pieces to prior possessions. So consequently the smuggling of Antique jewelry grew; some of it innocent; some of it quite devious. This Vintage period, 1900 - 1920 has been called The Golden Age of Smuggling in America.'
5/ Art Deco Platinum & Marquise Diamond Ring with calibre Emeralds World War 1 forced the antique jewelry industry into a minor decline, due to the problem of obtaining platinum. Platinum was a catalyzing agent in many chemical processes necessary for the war effort. The attitude of America's antique jewelers during World War 1 is characterized by the following quotation from an advertising circular of the period: 'If you intend to be in business when the war is over, you must stay in business while the war is going on. As a merchant and businessman, you must 'carry on' actively, aggressively.' When the restrictions were lifted in November 1918, Christmas sales soared.
